PRO-BOLT

I was thinking about getting aluminum sprocket nuts and ti rear rotor bolts + a set of aluminum engine bolts. All with anodized finish

This comes to about $140.

Would you spend that on bolts?

Anyone know of lower priced options in aluminum bolts?...I hate to drop this much cash on something so simple.

I'm ashamed to say yes I did spend the money on a Pro Bolt kit. I will be getting the Ti sprocket bolts when I have to upgrade the sprocket. I couldn't stand the silver bolt with the all black look. It's a lot of $$ though but the way I see it if it does't go into a saving account, or to help people in need, it's probably being wasted anyways.

if it does't go into a saving account, or to help people in need, it's probably being wasted anyways.

Yes I know. I waste a pile of money every month on silly things like rent and child support.

The black bolts look nice on the motor. I'm after the solid lookon the busa so I am painting all the bolt heads black. Might need to be redone some day but pretty cheap compared to buying the real thing.

Here is the weight breakdown for different engine bolt kits.

$131 Stainless steel, natural finish 9.84 oz --should be about the same as what the steel OEM bolts weigh

$318 Titaneum Steel, anodized 6.1 oz --save 3.74 oz

$65 Aluminum, anodized 4.21 oz --save 5.63 oz

As usual, aluminum is about half the weight of steel.

Thought about trying ZX-10 bolts because they are available in the HOT race spec design.

For comparison:
$62 2008-2011 ZX-10r standard aluminum, anodized 3.95 oz --pretty much the same weight as the aluminum kit for the ZX-14

$178.93 2008 ZX-10r anodized race spec engine case bolts, 3.26 oz --possibly most of the bolts would transfer to the ZX-14 engine case and this would save an additional 1 oz of weight over the ZX-14 standard aluminum case bolt kit.

I did not price the OEM engine cover bolts but a quick look at bikebandit seems to indicate a complete set would cost at least as much as a probolt aluminum set. IDK if it would get to be as expensive as one of the other sets.

IOW...I don't think 65 bucks is a bad price for engine case bolts. Over a hundred is prolly not something I could justify. As one person [osted on another Kaw forum, 'I could make the bike a lot faster spending that money on other mods." Good common sense.

those race spec bolts sure are cool looking though.

I'm after the solid lookon the busa so I am painting all the bolt heads black. Might need to be redone some day but pretty cheap compared to buying the real thing.

As far as the weight, I know it adds up but it's not worth it. Your 14 won't know the difference. I would only do that if the whole bike was going to be modified to the extreme i.e BST wheels, smaller front fender, no passenger pegs etc, and that would still be a waste of time. Battery, wheels and exhaust are worth it, the rest not so much. In racing the bikes have the same power, the riders are all talented so saving the weight of an atom can make a difference. The 14 is a "street" bike...

You could compare all day long but at the end of the day you still buying something you don't need so better go all the way out no? $131 is still morally correct in my opinion but if you spend $318 you better start winning some races. Even TT guys don't spend that kind of money on bolts.

As one person [osted on another Kaw forum, 'I could make the bike a lot faster spending that money on other mods.

P.S. Rent isn't as good as a mortgage but better than a roofless home and the cild support keeps you out of prison
I use ronayers instead of bikebandit. The prices are way better.

* Last updated by: dragking on 12/28/2012 @ 1:50 AM *

$131 is still morally correct in my opinion but if you spend $318 you better start winning some races.

I use ronayers instead of bikebandit. The prices are way better.

+1 for Ron Ayers.
Craig

IDK...I spent about 3 or 4 bucks for some flat black spray paint.My green anodized windscreen screws...they were like 13 dollars for 8...something around that.The tape and scissors to cut out the overspray backing newspaper...I already had.That flat black spray worked great on all the silver bits I wanted black.Teensy touchups once in a while with a toothpick...the green spray I got at a model parts store...'almost' a perfect match...couldn't really tell they weren't factory painted.

Using a piece of cardboard box,I just made some holes for the bolts to go in...and commenced painting.Turned out fine...two coats.

The subframe bolts I left in the bike...and masked off a good sized area with the newspaper and tape....worked excellent.Same with the rear brake assembly behind the heel guard.Removed the guard(s),painted them,and masked off the frame around the brake deal.Painted the lever and all silver areas there...including the aluminum under the foot peg.Sprayed...two coats....reassembled when all was dry.Painted the lower fairing bolts flat black as well as the rear lower fairing bolts.The midpipe bolt...flat black as well and the pipe tab connecting it.You can't tell it's not factory.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/28/2012 @ 11:57 PM *

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230898734970?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Not bad for 111 pieces in stainless. I have some aluminum fairing screws now and they are quite soft and cheesy. Don't think I'd trust aluminum rotor bolts although I have aluminum sprocket nuts on the stock steel studs.

^^^Actually, the rotor bolts are ti. Not a lot lighter than regular steel. A lot more expensive though.

Yeah, Danno, $45 for a set of SS bolts is a deal. Not anodized though.

I have some aluminum fairing screws now and they are quite soft and cheesy.

Grn, I am going with black paint on my busa bolts. Seems to work out okay but if you put a wrench on one the pant is damaged. I can see the virtues of installing the bolt and then spraying the head. --unti you need to get a wrench on it again. All fixable,paint will come off with sandpaper or acetone biut I would rather not have to deal with that.

The good ole Sharpie trick works quite well on bolts. Actually is pretty much the same thing as anodizing except the pigment is not bonded into the surface. I'm sure it comes off but easy to touch up if you don't mind the hassle. Sharpies come in a variety of colors including metalics.

LOL!!I tried a black sharpie one time....friggin thing was deep purple on that silver bolt head....needless to say....I didn't use the sharpie again!

"Seems to work out okay but if you put a wrench on one the pant is damaged"

Try using those black allenwrenches...

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/29/2012 @ 5:47 PM *

all my allen wrenches sre black metal finish. IDK if it helps. The hex bolts seem to take the worst of it because the wrench grips all around the sides. I've determined it best to just sharpie those after installed. You need a new juicy marker to get it good and heavy. It will still show through in bright sunlight. Good for temporary finish but probab;y will need frequent topuchups until a guy just knuckles under and masks off and paints the things.

"Try using those black allenwrenches..."....he he...it was a 'joke' Rookster... was wondering how many fish I'd get on my line with that one...LOL!! Try the toothpick trick...if ya end up going that way.It's SO easy and minimal.I also put some of that clear plastic one sided film on the bottom of the axle clamps area...that flat forward facing area.Keeps the rock strikes right there from chipping the factory finish all to hell.Even added some to the upper fork tubes under there....can't see it,but it sure helps keep that surface finish lookin new.I had some pretty good rock gouges on my 07 on those.This'll stop all that.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/29/2012 @ 7:23 PM *

actually crossed my mind that you were serious but you didn't get me to buy it! No sir.

all my allen wrenches sre black metal finish. IDK if it helps.

$226 with shipping. Should I buy these little rip offs, or what? No use for gas cap screws because my Light Tech has cone shaped countersink screws (and they are already aluminum). Got some anodized blue reservoir caps with gold clips. what's a man to do?

Yeah I spent way more than I should have on bolts….lol I also changed all the faring bolts out to black aluminum. Then because of the track days and top speed event I changed the major bolts out to the race spec titanium bolts so I could safety wire them. I even changed the clip on bolts, rear axle nut and all the caliper bolts. I have to say WOW those things are way nice! I would love to do the entire bike with them but it would cost me about a Ninja 250 to do it! Lol

Someone said Harleys were expensive?LOL!!!....

"you didn't get me to buy it!".....you write most excellent how-tos...but your lying skills need some workLOL!!!!!!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/30/2012 @ 9:14 AM *

oh jeeze, they even got counter sink screws.....ehhhh.

$300 on bolts and doodads. My baby will look hot this spring.

SHAME ON YOU! LOL

Just got my ProBolts. Yep they look pretty. The aluminum sprocket nuts have steel threads. It has aluminum threads but then they have an insert that threads into it that is made of steel. The steel insert has threads that fit the sprocket studs. IDK what the idea is behind that. Hate to have one of those insert stick to the stud and thread out of the nut.../???? I guess I will be checking those often. with the steel insert, they actully seem to weigh more than a solid aluminum nut would weigh. IDK if I a too impressed with teh sprocket nuts. Everything else looks cool. The reservoir covers are a LOT heavier than the OEM plastic covers. Nice though.