I just reread your post, you had to file the OD of that axle nut on the left side and apply grease to get it to go into the lower pinch clamp? That don't sound right, I never use grease on the axle or nut clamping surface as it requires friction from the pinch bolts to keep from moving around in the fork lower. Was that axle nut buggered on the OD? Manufacturing defect maybe? Take a photo and post next time of that nut OD.

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I always clean my axle and apply a thin coat of grease before installation.
I also wipe down the wheel seals to avoid contaminating the bearings.
I've seen douchebags on TV beating in axles with a hammer. If it doesn't slide in easy by hand, it ain't right. I hate douchebags.

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Have you seen my toolbox? I'm friggin' serious about this stuff!

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I grease the axle. Not the surface that fits in the fork bottom but all the rest that goes through the wheel. I don't think a little grease on the nut is going to make the nut spin if the pinch bolts are tight...but I wouldn't rely on grease if the nut is not spinning freely. Something is fitting improperly.

I have left one side pinched and turned on the other. I think it's best to loosen both sides and stabilize the axle while turning the nut. If you leave one side pinched, there's a chance it could spin while pinched and that would mean grinding between the parts.

It really does not matter which side the axle nut is on but if it is on the right, there is a chance the rotation of the wheel could cause it to loosen if the pinch bolts were loose. Left is safer. I put the nut on the right for my rear wheel because I believe that pulls the axle forward against the adjusters (where it should be) when torquing the rear axle nut.

Rules of thumb:
There's situations where pullers and slide hammers get used but in general, don't use force on parts unless the service manual specifies pressure fit.

don't thread if the bolt stops turning smoothly before it tightens.

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....I did find the rear sprocket studs on my Carrazeria were that funky self tightening thread used in aircraft. Those you had to thread on TIGHT all the way...only situation I ever encountered where less than smooth threads was normal.

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I never use grease on the axle

This is why you should. The bearings sit in that rim and there is air between that distance to the other bearing. We need to have a collar in the middle of both bearings so when squeezed, the balls are pretty much centered in the race when the axle is tightened. We know the outer bearing race turns, the collar and spacers keep the inner race stationary on the axle clamp. We have that picture?

We are still fighting an air space. We live in a wet climate. Damp is the air. We let the bike sit in dry climate but in the garage with the dryer going and now that wet out of the clothes dampens the garage with the heat off the dryer, etc. Follow the ambient and is not the air gap in that rim following room temp? Yes.

So are we not also riding and causing heat to build in that air tunnel between the tube and axle? Tires warm up the rim. Brakes heat up the bearing along with the rolling there of. How much moisture do we have in that dry cave of a steam bath happening and why is there rust on my axle too? I had to beat my axle out with a hammer, the stalagmite made my axle tight is a rusty shallow place to keep air from entering if its in there sort of sealed off already.

If we had a vacuum in there, no part is about to rust, but that's the deal in that area is why you should grease the collar a lot as well, if you decide to grease the axle.

Signed,

Make Sense?

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While we're on the subject, the pinch bolts are to be torqued at 15 ft lbs.
If you torque one, then the other, the first one loosens and needs retorqued. You have to go back and fourth a few times until they both click without turning.
I've seen missing pinch bolts because the installer omited this process.

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You have to go back and fourth a few times until they both click without turning.

I pretty much do that with anything that has more than one bolt holding the same part but especially important where you have spring tension you are torquing against or a gasket.

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Well...kinda filed it...just smooth that's all...the NUT piece...and the inside of the lower fork axle hole.There were a couple of small burrs from it rubbing while I was trying to tighten it.That's all it was...I also lightly filed the edges of that nut(od)(the edge that first goes in)...just cause I didn't want to have any more issues with it.The grease was just to help it slide in and out...but that'll be wiped off when I reinstall again.

That whole axle assembly would have to back out to even move anything...those pinch bolts...they are'nt gonna let that happen.It's safe.Once that nut's tightened down on that axle(The left side axle nut)...it's not going anywhere;)I still don't know HOW it chafed as it did...never did that before.Maybe the fork hole was dry?IDK...caused some friction in there while turning?That aluminum is pretty soft.It had to be lined up...can't go in there any other way with the bearings and spacers holding it...so it's...a mysteryLOL!!!Tell ya this though...if it starts getting tight again like it did...I won't be forcing it...THAT wasn't the right move.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/21/2014 @ 12:40 PM *

Has anyone tried seeing if the axles will attract a magnet? I think the axles are lunium too.

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I still don't know HOW it chafed as it did...never did that before.

Monty, you mentioned removing a fork. I was thinking maybe you installed one side a little too low? That might make the axle holes in the fork bottoms misaligned. It's not too hard to check. You should be able to get a very good reliable measurement from the top of the fork cap to the handle bar bracket ..but if you want to to be as certain as possible, take off the handle bar holders and measure from the top of the top fork clamp to the top of the fork cap. Inside calipers is the way to go on this. But really, I think you can trust eyeballing the height against the handle bar holders. Put on your reading glasses! LOL

Has anyone tried seeing if the axles will attract a magnet? I think the axles are lunium too.

They sure feel like it but I just tried a magnet on the rear axle and its steel. Front has axle sliders in so I couldn't test that but Kruz assures me a magnet sticks there, too. It must be some kind of alloy because it is so light. $57 part so it can't be Ti.

They are big threads but 90 ft lbs seems like it would be a lot for the back axle if it was aluminum.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/21/2014 @ 6:07 PM *

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"Monty, you mentioned removing a fork. I was thinking maybe you installed one side a little too low?"

...good thought...but they were even.Even if it was off a millimeter or so...the compressing action would have allowed it to adjust and slide in.
You know...once that threaded nut begins to thread in there,it really can't get 'off' alignment.The od won't let it.So IDK what it was.The binding happened at the flange portion of the nut..not the flange itself...but the surface of the od of the nut,about a 3'8ths area width....inside the fork hole(on the lower fork unit).Hub mentioned about the sprocket teeth being shaped...this is what it looked like...not smooth...but squeezed out towards that flange portion.WEIRD;)It started tightening up about half way into that axle thread distance.Crazy as it sounds..I wonder if the metal to metal contact just happened to create enough heat to slightly soften up that fork round in there?I could have sworn when it started tightening up like that that it was the threads crossthreading...but no...they were fine.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/21/2014 @ 7:57 PM *

...but if you want to to be as certain as possible, take off the handle bar holders...

My lower leg is cut short. I didn't push that brake carrier up the tube far enough. Look at my lower part, I have my top measurement spot on. My axle is cocked going in.

I lock a leg to spec up top.
I float my axle in the moving fork so when my axle meets the other side, no cocking of the horizontal line.
I line up my lowers so my first turn of the thread does not ride up on the thread and begin to cross thread it: the pitch is now horizontal enough by floating my leg so it dialed it right in to the axle plane. I should be able to take my palms and spin the axle into the forks it's that... Hold on I have to stop the axle from spinning... kind of drag is both forks are statically set to each other.

Signed,

Makes too much sense, yes?

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That makes sense...that's how I did it before.I always use an axle socket to hold the right side as I turn the left...but I don't always really NEED to socket that right side...it just depends...except when I go to really tighten the last several threads....then I use both axle tools.Long as I have that upper outer fork secure at the correct height,I know the bottom caliper holder unit will be aligned.And it will float where it needs to be for axle lineup.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/21/2014 @ 9:09 PM *

Have you seen my toolbox? I'm friggin' serious about this stuff!

I DISLIKE PERFECTIONIST WITH DIRTY FLOORS.

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Is this better?

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Is this better?

much better . now back to the difficulty of axle installs. can somebody tell me why my windscreen bolts are tight on the bottom hole and top holes but the middle ones fall in. may need a hammer

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LOL!...I've never had axle install issues before...this is the first time anything like this has happened.It's no real problem...dressed the area up and the axle nut...it's fine now....but just seemed odd why it did what it did;)

I DISLIKE PERFECTIONIST WITH DIRTY FLOORS.

Real perfectionists are too busy being perfect to waste time cleaning floors. It's all about priorities.

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Real perfectionists are too busy being perfect to waste time cleaning floors. It's all about priorities

bullshit. they will hire somebody to keep that floor clean.

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Hey Montana: do I need to use a rear sprocket with a different bolt pattern? And are your wheels the straight or slanted spoke? Do BSTs come with a sprocket carrier? I'm thinking yesh.

I still want em... figured I better get that stuff sorted soon.

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Yes...the BST's use a VORTEX rear(different 5 bolt pattern).I have that...all the parts you'll need(already assembled).BST cush drive(part of the sprocket carrier).No worries about the spacers either...they are installed in the hubs....the spokes are slanted a bit.They're also balanced(by me...Bikemaster wheel balancer...the shit;) )Those ceramic bearings really allow the wheel to turn in a balancer...very nice.

Be forwarned...the KTRC is NOT gonna react as fast in a wheely situation...the wheels just wanna keep spinningLOL!!!!I think you'll REALLY like the way yer baby handles with these.You WILL feel a difference;)Stops will be shorter...carving will be quicker.

Don't feel 'pressured' to get em if something comes up or whatever....or you change yer mind...sa'll good.I get it;)

You're going to feel a profound difference between these and the Factory wheels.....installs and tire replacements are a breeze.You just need to make sure yer tire guy(if it isn't you)understands that he HAS to give the small bead thingy(on the tire machine) at least 3/16ths inch AWAY from the rim edge when mounting tires on these.And no more than 40 PSI when setting the bead after mounting(when they 'pop' the bead into the rim)....until he fills it to 41 or whatever.The rim protectors will be included of course.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/26/2014 @ 12:46 PM *

Don't feel 'pressured' to get em if something comes up or whatever....or you change yer mind...sa'll good.I get it;)

Not at all, young man. You've found their new home... it's all a matter of time at this point.

I did some snooping: SupperSprox (lol) makes the Stealth line in BST bolt pattern. Since my final drive has 22,000 miles on it I'll buy their chain and sprocket kit for Blackstones.

My pappy and I do all our own tire changes now with the Cycle Hill changer. No metal contact with the rim anywhere.

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Alright!Very cool....I suppose the Brock's site has a contract with Vortex or something.They 'kinda' make it sound as if Vortex is THE only sprocket that'll work.I've got a Superstrealth on my factory rim right now...very good sprocket.Hell...OEM works fine IMO.I have several countershaft sprockets here...one or two are still in great shape(OEM)...you want one of em?I can ship with the wheels;)?

IF you think down the road you might want to install a steering damper...I've got one of those too.Hyperpro...ASC(active steering control)(think that what it meansLOL!).Excellent shape...fits perfecto.Works great.Black.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/26/2014 @ 5:41 PM *

I'm not meaning to hijack this thread but it was originally about bent rims. I recently picked up a used Ducati 999 and the PO had hit a pohtole (musta hurt a bunch!) and bent both rims.

I think these are readily repairable, can anyone recommend a good shop I can send them to? Even better would be a shop located in Central Indiana but I'm guessing that's a stretch!

Thanks in advance!

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