Do you install the battery terminals and THEN apply a light protective coating to cover the terminals, or do you apply a coat of dielectric grease (or other product) to the battery posts and both sides of the terminals before assembly?

Apply to everything and then assemble.

I use dielectric grease on all electrical connections and plug boots too.

it's not made to make electricity conduct better if that's your concern. It's just safe for rubber. Any grease should work to keep the terminals corrosion free but petroleum is not usually the best thing for rubber.

there is conductive grease and that you'd want to stay away from for most applications. I've never had use for it.

I use a small tiny of dielectric or silicone grease (same thing) on my lead connector contacts. I only applied once and it seems to stay. Don't overdo it. It keeps moisture out but it also makes dust stick. for the battery, I apply to the terminals first and then assemble. You can wipe those off and reapply any time. You probably only mess with your battery once/ year anyway.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/28/2017 @ 1:06 PM *

hmmmm, dielectrics are insulators. Applying to everything and then assemble is kinda like dipping it in plastic before assembly? But if it works for you ok. Spraying battery terminal protectant onto the terminals after assembly is correct process.

Oh no.... glad my bike still starts!

It's nothing like dipping it in plastic and is a pretty dumb thing to say
and then to throw in this kind of authoritative tone "well if it works for you"
just makes me want to tell you that you can eat the corn out of my shit, if
that works for you.

Won't even get into the tech reasons why it's ok to use as stated above.

the parts that are going to make tight contact will squeeze any grease out. If the parts that make loose contact don't have grease, that's a good place for corrosion to start. I doubt it matters much. I never had a problem with conduction but I have had a little corrosion.

Pike, Absolutely was not trying to be authoritative. I was only using the plastic dip as an example, nothing more. But now you have my curiosity up as to why, technically, its not a problem to have a dielectric insulator between to metal conductors in a low voltage automotive application?

Peace brother

Thanks for the replies.
I started doing a little research and had no idea that the proper use of dielectric grease is a very controversial subject. Even at a website where mechanics are paid to answer questions, they disagreed.
I haven't had much problems over the years with replacing car or motorcycle batteries. All the new batteries lasted a fair amount of time. Some batteries had some sulfation but it was never a real problem. As for battery terminal protection, many years ago I started using an anti-corrosion spray made by Conco. It came out red colored and bubbled a little after contact. It said to spray it over the terminals. I used the same can for probably 20 years(?)and it worked well. For my bikes, I brushed it on to avoid over-spray.
However, I used it a few months ago after replacing the battery on my son's old Ranger. I applied as always. Started the truck and all was well. That night my son calls me from school and says his truck won't start. No lights, nothing. It turns out the spray got in between the battery's positive post and the clamp terminal and zero power got through. I didn't understand at first but I realized the spray must have become too old since the last time I used it and it became thinner and melted from the heat under the hood. This caused it to run down and completely cover one post and a little of the negative post. It always stuck to what it was sprayed on before so I'm sure the product just got too old. So, the spray acted as an insulator. I wiped the spray off and the truck started immediately. Lesson learned.
Since then I decided to use dielectric grease. Now I'm learning again. I actually thought dielectric grease improved conductivity...wrong. Dielectric appears to be an insulator. About 2 out of 3 people say it should be applied to all mating surfaces of the battery posts, terminals, etc. The other 1 out of 3 say to assemble the parts first and then apply it as an external coating. Others say don't use it at all and use an anti-corrosion spray instead. I didn't read any opinions on exactly how to apply the spray.
The reason I started this thread was I just replaced the 14's battery and used a light coat of dielectric grease on all battery/terminal mating surfaces. Now I have a problem that is new to me. I filled the new battery correctly, waited 2+ hours for the electrolyte to permeate the plates, then charged the new battery as I always have. It reached full charge in 8 hours (13.06 V). I let it sit 8 hours and it still read 12.95 V which is acceptable per Yuasa's instructions. The bike started immediately, the instrument dash said "14.0 volts" and all seemed fine. I let it run for about 5 minutes, shut the bike off and plugged into my Battery Tender Plus charger as always. Then something unexpected happened. My last new Yuasa battery (identical)when plugged into my charger showed at least 80% charge after a few minutes (green light blinking) and 100% charge within 10 minutes (solid green light). Same results with my '79 GS1000 with similar battery/same charger. However, this new battery shows 80% charge in a few minutes but takes about 10 HOURS to reach 100% charge according to the lights on the charger. I've ridden the bike twice and each time the same thing.
So I don't know what's happening. I double checked my installation. I remembered the issue I had with using the old spray. This is my first time using dielectric grease so I'm wondering if that has something to do with it? I applied what I'd call a thin coat to all mating surfaces. I ALSO APPLIED SOME GREASE TO THE NEGATIVE/GROUND TERMINALS ON THE FRAME. Could that create an insulating effect and increase the charging time? Kind of like a poor connection could slow down the charging process?
I'm thinking of wiping off all the grease, assemble everything first, then applying it as an external coat. Then see if that affects how long it takes to charge after a ride. I want to hear your opinions/experiences first.

this new battery shows 80% charge in a few minutes but takes about 10 HOURS to reach 100% charge according to the lights on the charger.

I applied what I'd call a thin coat to all mating surfaces. I ALSO APPLIED SOME GREASE TO THE NEGATIVE/GROUND TERMINALS ON THE FRAME. Could that create an insulating effect and increase the charging time?

The frame ground is where I have seen whitish residue so I always grease it any time I take it off. That ground doesn't seem like it would have a thing to do with charge rate. You can have that disconnected and it will still charge. I do. I have my battery on the maintainer outside of the bike all winter. The battery terminals are what matter for charging. If they are in decent condition and the bolt is good and snug, there ought to be good contact. I can't tighten my old Shorai terminals real tight because they are so thin but I never had problems with contact even using the grease.

I'm thinking of wiping off all the grease, assemble everything first, then applying it as an external coat. Then see if that affects how long it takes to charge after a ride. I want to hear your opinions/experiences first.

Good idea. I think you will find the battery charges the same without grease.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/29/2017 @ 10:48 AM *

Dielectric grease ... I goop it on ... slather it on. Pretty heavy. BUT ... not so heavy that it gets all over everything. Works well. Makes nuts and bolt tighten nicely against washers and wiring connectors. Reduces / eliminates corrosion. Does not reduce electrical flow. Also makes it easier to unscrew things when the time comes.

Works well.

... for you?

It's always worked well for me too but I like my corn before it's made its final exit, thank you very much .

I appreciate the replies.
I'll try wiping the grease off like I said and re-applying it over the assembled parts. As Rook said, I'm thinking it won't change anything but I'll try anyway.
One new thing I noticed that seems strange: The bike was at full charge and sitting off. I unplugged the Battery Tender extension plug and took some reads there with my multi-meter. It read 13.07 v and dropped to about 12.94 v which I assume is related to "surface charge"? What I don't understand is after the bike was unplugged for about 5 minutes, ignition never turned on, the charger took about 3 hours to show full charge again.
I contacted Yuasa and they are still trying to come up with an answer. Since the bike starts and runs well, I'll just keep an eye on it. I believe the warranty is for 1 year.

finally on to the corn, that took long enough

corn would be the best food to donate to starving masses of the world

"I'd rather use tampons then slipons." Rook

ROFFLAUGHING
OL!!!!!!

Apply liberally to shaft and fitting. Assemble. Dissassemble. Assemble. Dissassemble. Repeat many times.

My opinion on application is coat everything then assemble. If you don't have a solid electrical connection, it's from some other issue. Long term? I don't know. Safe for a seaons? I'd say definitely. Are you safe for 5 years? I really don't know.

Are you safe for 5 years? I really don't know

had it on my 02 sensor harness for at least 5 years. Just took them apart and the grease looks like it was put on yesterday. This was stuffed between the gear shift shaft and water pump so close to being about the dirtiest and wettest area you could pick.