I have a tru gel battery and a small Schumacher SEM-1562A 1.5 Amp Speed Charge Maintainer. I installed the pigtail to the battery but have not tried to use it for chargeing yet without a answer and the internet is failing me. has anyone here any experence?

Peace and Love Ron

So we're on the same page...

1. What is the killer of a battery due to the chemical reaction no matter if liquid or gel acid? Time inactive so the chemical reaction reverses, i.e., goes dead. Internally, the crust is going to act as a resistor, where the chemical reaction cannot transfer thru dry crust, but needs water or a liquid jel to move from plate to plate.

2. What is the killer of a battery due to the magnetic field we live in? The white crust that forms on the battery posts, [on the outside as well] looking green, pure white; we have some sort of chemical reaction magnetically working against or with D-C current. A/C current (think hot connector prongs making magnetism, i.e., the cause and effect of magnetism that turns the prongs green: is how nature eats what you made, leave it out in the elements and it turns to rust, etc. So we have that white or green powder happening inside a battery as well as the green prongs burning or causing the same kind of variable to happen to the stator wire connectors.

3. What is the killer of a battery due to lots of energy being stimulated via magnetism? Heat. Heat will kill a battery when you boil the acid, wrinkle the plates, cause contacts to separate or make contact inside. So either the crust eats away at the cathode or anode posts, breaks contact with 1 of 6 cells that are 2.1v a piece; or say that equals 12.6v of battery cells or look at that charge rate.

A. The schumachart shows no more than to charge the battery over 13 hours as per battery size.

B. Look at it more like: I am going to control the heat being placed upon the plates no matter battery size output.

C. I am going to feel the battery case so the battery feels more cold than hot, but warm to the touch if not room temp. I am the plate monitor, the heat temp sensor, the one who controls the heat, meaning, hand me a battery charger, I'll show you who makes heat and who is short of making heat.

D. Hot can mean: I do not flow from cell to cell; I am cooking 2 volts or 4 volts worth of cells; one of my ano/catho posts is eaten by the white crust; sulfation between plates has occurred; the electrons/protons or molecules cannot move along; rather heat the battery case; cause the amp meter to stay in the red or make noise at the charger. I am more a non-flowing plate to plate kind of noise maker.

F. I am going to set my multi ohm meter to the volts scale that reads 20v. I am going to test the shumac first. I want to see the range or the battery connectors to spike past 12v.

G. I now want to see the static charge of the battery before I charge it. This way, I can now measure the current draw of the schumac enter the 14v zone. That means the battery is low when the schu is connected.

H. If I had 13v showing, that means the battery is up there and well charged and won't spike the voltage that high. So my next step is to monitor the heat at the battery case for the first 4 hours or less. I am concerned about heat, not ohm's laws at the moment. I'm loopholing ohms as I check the heat of the battery.

I. So can I use a high amp charger like it's pumping out 10amps? Yes. Why? Because you are cooking the chemical reaction faster is all. So you monitor the battery case so as not to charge so fast to the boiling point, you do not want to hear noise coming out of the battery, that it's so hot you can't keep your hands on it? That means the battery is shot internally, or you walked away from the 10amp rated charger and did not stay on top of the heat.

J. Then, it's back to removing the charger off the battery. Check static voltage. And for yuck-yucks, load the battery using the starter motor. Watch the current drop and if it comes back to 13v from a well charged battery, I think you monitored the heat; watched the time vs size at the chart; does not have a sulfation problem; did not begin to heat up to show it was not salvageable; or you cooked it out; each cell is looking it can statically hold past its ideal threshold of 12.6v.

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Balance charger to battery:

I. I cannot use a 1.3 amp charger on a 14 amp hour battery.
II. Look how the formula works is to take the decimal point and move it to the right.
III. I cannot use a 1.3a rated charger on a 1.4ah battery. WATT happens?
IV. I am balanced to 1.3a = I lost .1ah.
V. I need a 1.5a charger so I exceed my amp hour.
VI. I now have the correct charger for my 12v-14ah battery.
VII. I have a 12v-12ah battery. Guess WATT? Your 1.3 amp charger is perfect for a 1.2ah battery, you exceeded the amp so 1.2a is achieved.

Make Sense?

Yes, you can. I also have a small Schumacher charger and a gel battery. No ill effects.

thank you

My SNAP-ON charger/maintainer has separate setting for gel, agm and lead acid type. Also, it's adjustable down to 1 ah.