So Friday afternoon the bike starts bogging or cutting power mid ride. When I would give it gas it would immediately stop. I then noticed it happens predominately in the lower RPM range.

If I run hard no problems until I slow down and then the bike shuts completely off, where I have to grab the clutch turn the bike off, flip the switch and then pop the clutch to get her to start or press the button...Could not just turn around and stop riding bc I live in Jersey, was headed to North Carolina and when the problem started I was already at the end of Virginia.

Mods are an ECU flash, PC5, Muzzy M10/14 exhaust, and K&N drop in.

At first I thought it may have been bad gas so I ran it until close to empty, put injector cleaner in and filled up.
I also fully disconnected the PC5 just incase that was it as well.

Now I'm thinking it may be fuel pump or fuel filter or both since I don't think we have a stand alone filter.

Any help or insight would help!

Thank you!!

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PCV ground wire

When I would give it gas it would immediately stop.

Not the fuel pump.
Not fuel = Was not it when going thru tanks.
Not pc = still does it.

After a hard run, lift, then the bike cuts off?
See that lift and it sort of rolls off the map in a way?
See how you have to recycle the bike to lose that memory of no start?

Not hard starting so it's not an air leak. Should start right up before you remove finger from starter button.

No codes present or when upon lift do you see a dash in a flashing mode and clears itself.

Flash?

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I sent the ECU to Schnitz Racing to have it "REFLASHED" ;

Schnitz Racing offers ECU Reflashing for the Kawasaki ZX-14 that is restricted in the following ways:

ACCORDING TO THEIR WEBSITE:
Limited Hard Acceleration by Restricting Secondary Throttle Blade Opening
Reduced Peak Power Output by Limited Ignition Timing and/or RPM
Top Speed Limit or High Gear RPM Limits
These restrictions are used to control power output to allow easier control of the motorcycle for street conditions. However, these will limit the full potential of engine for racing use. Allow us to eliminate these restrictions and allow your engine to run the way it should.

Kawasaki ZX14 (06-11) Reflash Features:

Increased Rev Limiter to 11,500RPM (+500rpm from stock)
Top Speed Limiter Removed
Gear Based Fuel Trims Removed from Gears 1-3
Secondary Throttle Blades Open More Aggressively And Stay Open

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So I took her out last night to see if it happened again and if I could give a better description of the problem...

What I noticed is it didn't do it immediately.
I ran it for around 30 minutes first and nothing then hours later I ran her again for about 30 minutes, bringing it up to speed and nothing.

I parked for around 10 minutes, went to start the bike up again and the temperature gauge just flashed in random order and it would not start. I then put her in gear accidentally and temp gauge stopped flashing and she started right up.

On the way home she stuttered in low rpms in 1st 2nd and 3rd gears. Low meaning 3-3500. Also when around 10,000 rpms in 5th and 6th gears she stuttered.

PCV is already fully disconnected from bike so that not a factor anymore.

Grabbing clutch, revving throttle seems to stop the stutter which makes me feel as though it is a fuel delivery issue.

Thoughts, questions, concerns!?!?

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Here's what I'm saying.
Crank - needs a relation to cam sensor to ECU.
TPS - is in relation to sub sensor and ECU.
WTS - what and what are tired-in to the water temp sensor?
That's watt I'm saying.

Now, see how the accidental click to gear was the gauge stopped popping the code?
See how the clutch lever pulled in >>> stopped the shutter?
See how that flip-flopped was to trigger something in the ECU. See how it goes back to the ECU? See how all that clutch lever pulling before the occurrence, not the clutch switch, not the temp switch? Temp switch is not on the blink until??

WTS spikes but goes out is the [phantom]-code triggered. But to replace the water temp sensor, let alone take a reading, you'd have to find the manual, the color wire, the prong out of the ECU, the other wire loop, now, touch those two with an ohm meter and match readings against the book. Not good however. Look at the resistance you'll add from WTS connector to ECU harness and up to the ECU connector. That, or find a way to touch the 2 prongs of the WTS, or is it 3 prongs?

Water temp is hard to get at. Do I want to mimic my problem? I would think to remove the temp connector off the unit, set the code and now duplicate it on the road ride.

Also when around 10,000 rpms in 5th and 6th gears she stuttered.

See how that temp begins to rise at that higher rpm and we have problems? So if 3 wires out, the first goes to the ECU, next to a ground, the other to the dash, but someone else is used to run that temp wire to the dash.

So back to the only guy showing it's teeth is the WTS. The 10k rpm making heat, the sensor sorta in range and out of range, why no temp spike at the dash when that happens? So again, that disconnect is going to make some strange heat, feel the panels or the hot air coming out, or this same bucking is going to mimic the symptom and maybe you lucked out it's a temp sensor? And the process to do that is drop the nose in hot water, read the range out of the prongs, and that's before you buy a water temp sensor is drain the coolant so pulling the sensor out is less messy, unless you swap parts fast, top off the loss during the swap.

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Gonna have to say 'flash' here.You have another ECU?If so...put it in.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/22/2015 @ 11:22 PM *

Thanks Hub going to work on her today... Hopefully we can get this resolved within the week, I have another 700 mile trip planned for the weekend...

Grn14 I don't have another ECU, if you have one and would like to let me borrow it to text or sell it to me please let me!

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Unfortunately...my 'extra' ECU is for a 2013ABS...no worky...sorry.

I'm sitting on ninjamasters ECU with the same sort of bucking @ 3k or there about. Annoying, but 700 miles worth is just that. Say it gets no worse.

With both loads, meaning 5-6 @ 10k and the 2-3 @ say lower rpms, sort of points to the ECU. I didn't take the bike up to 10k to notice a shutter at the time, but say you have coils and injector codes for some sort of failure that way or a phantom code spike. Here we are looking at the water temp. The code clears when in service. The shutter appears and it sure seems like it reverts back to the ECU.

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Let me set the proper visual stage of todays events:
Roughly about 10:15 am eastern time, I leave the house on the not so trusted steed to go to the local mechanics house. Roughly 15 minute drive.
On the way there is absolutely no action or reaction from the bike. She rode like the steed she once was.
I get to his house, he informs me he really doesn't know what is wrong with the bike and his first and only guess would be the fuel pump. I leave and there was only one shutter from her in 1st gear around 3k rpm.

As I continue to my local stealership, which is roughly about 25 minutes away from the mechanics house it stutters briefly in 1st gear but then the remaining 10-15 minute ride it was smooth.

On the way back approximately 10 minutes in, she starts to stutter then eventual shuts all the way down...
There is no FI light that comes on. She eventually just cut off and would not turn back on. I tried to restart her and nothing, I turned her completely off took key out of the ignition and then restarted and she came on then shut right back off. I then let her sit for approximately 5 minutes restarted and fed gas and she started up! But to get her home I had to keep feeding her gas. But she did turn off again right around the corner from my house....

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Hub are you leaning more towards the ECU?

I spoke to Schnitz Racing they said that I could send the ECU back to them and they would make sure the programming is still there and the inputs are correct. But that was all I got from them...

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Let me set the proper visual stage of todays events:
Roughly about 10:15 am eastern time, I leave the house on the not so trusted steed to go to the local mechanics house. Roughly 15 minute drive.

My bike fires up, I have no jerking from the beginning. Proper visual now says, I have an ECU that is not on the blink warm or hot. I am waiting for a signal is now a proper running ECU?

On the way there is absolutely no action or reaction from the bike. She rode like the steed she once was.

Right. Look at how the heat has yet to work on the crank sensor now? Cold, everything is working fine. Begins to heat up, something breaks down.

his first and only guess would be the fuel pump.

No. The bike starts right up. The bike redlines to 10k. Bad pumps do not climb in rpm and keep the pressure moving, right? Not the pump is my elimination. Are we in a loss of fuel pressure or loss of spark?

I leave and there was only one shutter from her in 1st gear around 3k rpm.

See, back again to some 3k window is this shutter on the other bike of ninja's.

it stutters briefly in 1st gear but then the remaining 10-15 minute ride it was smooth.

Damn, that blows the crank sensor. I'm thinking heat breakdown and now it runs smooth again? Did we measure heat cycles of start and stop time of cooling?

On the way back approximately 10 minutes in, she starts to stutter then eventual shuts all the way down...

Shit, back to no start is the crank sensor. So lets do this.

1. Cold: I know the bike runs fine with cooler sensors per say, so everything should no shutter.
2. Hot: I have this shutter/shutting down problem. What if I remove the right crank cover, take the old lady's hair drier, cook that crank sensor housing, reinstall the cover as fast as I can and take it for a ride. If I won't start, shutter that cold an engine, see the heat effect the crank sensor to act hot running and the rest of the bike is cold, as is the ECU is not hot, but that crank sensor does sure mimic a no start to a stutter with a cold engine, hot crank sensor.

See what to do next? Meanwhile, I'm heading off someplace to meet someone. I'll see if passing that sputter/miss is common with his experience, see if he came across this at one time?

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I'm gonna ask here...but I had something VERY similar to my 07 when I had her.Non-flashed.I had installed a Brock's manual timing wheel...worked really well...until...the small screws loosened somehow.The symptoms you are describing were almost the identical to what my 07 was doing over a period of a week or so.NOBODY could figure it out.Run fine one moment,then a stop for fuel...suddenly..all hell breaks loose.The wheel was moving in the timing window.

You don't happen to have one of those on your ignition timing shaft do you?Just thought I put this out there...in case.It does sounds strangely familiar...timing changing going on...maybe.

If I shut the bike off and it was running okay...then the start-up would generally be fine.If it wasn't doing okay when I stopped and shut it down,then the start-up just didn't happen,until the cranking got the wheel in the closest setting to actually fire again.Even chopping the throttle would cause the wheel to move out of time...so it'd be fine one minute...then ready to die another.It was pretty crazy.

Also noted a change in the exhaust note.As it started changing.Sputtering,coughing,low power.Barely would idle several times.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/25/2015 @ 3:36 PM *

" I tried to restart her and nothing"

As in no dash lights / no response at all? OR Dash lights but no cranking? OR Cranking but no start?

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Talked to my source but was clueless to the problem. Never came across it. Grn, the bike runs, and see how that brought up the cam sensor code as a phantom tie-in? Same phantom with the water temp on this bike.

Though the source did bring up the subs being oil stuck sometimes due to the breathing system. But if you think about it, not too many complaints after 8 years of the same design basically, so not many have this bucking.

You'd think the crank sensor heats up, but this has to be a no current out the two crank pulse wires. This has to be a bucking to no start. No crank, no start. Does the fuel pump prime?

Where you would remove the right crank cover, heat the pickup with a hair drier, see if the bike does not start? So, is it a crank sensor heat related or internally, the ECU becomes heat related?

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Grn Nope, no Ignition timing shaft thing.

alg8er lights come on, and she cranks but no start up!

Hub after my post on Saturday another mechanic wanted to hear her while she was cold and then while hot. started her up with no problem and he listened "intently" I'm hoping. Then I drove around locally to get her warm and she completely shut down. That was at 3:55pm on Saturday she did not restart at all Saturday night. I did not try to start her yesterday, I'm going to go outside now and try.

Here is a video of what the cluster is doing!

https://www.facebook.com/eccruz1/videos/10100327209172102/

going outside now to see if she starts

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And in the video if you notice the fuel pump to make noise either

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This COULD be battery related as was mentioned in the other thread just a few minutes ago.See what your standing non-running voltage is.Could be just that simple.

If this is the OEM battery(original)...I'd say..it's toast by now.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/27/2015 @ 9:21 AM *

"Sorry, this content isn't available right now" = facebook.... Put it on youtube.

A computer bike lives by 3 moves.
1. Crank sensor: this more or less is the heartbeat of the bike. No beat, this makes a lovely boat anchor.
2. Cam sensor: this guy is a saved last good output signal, but the next key on, meaning, the saved signal has grounded a second time, so no ROM is the backup. This says I should go out and try to start it no cam sensor connector connected. This bike starts on who was last fired is next to be fired off, but no good signal, no start. Let me try that.
3. ECU: obviously this is the main boat anchor brick, no crank sig is the second, and the cam sensor is last. All other 'various' sensors are not needed and continues to start the bike with each its own safety backup to limp you home.

Grn, good point, so scroll to the volts display and see where the battery is?

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No shit!
Bike > I see a boss for a cam sensor - No cam sensor on 2nd gen bikes.
Book > Dare it tizz - No cam sensor on the code pages.

So this gen1 cam sensor should apply and if not, the abstract reads, 'should follow firing.' So by unplugging the cam sensor, the bike should run. Then it is back to two main components that the bike will not run are the crank sensor-heart and the ECU-brains... is I wish I had some.

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"2. Cam sensor: this guy is a saved last good output signal, but the next key on, meaning, the saved signal has grounded a second time, so no ROM is the backup. This says I should go out and try to start it no cam sensor connector connected. This bike starts on who was last fired is next to be fired off, but no good signal, no start. Let me try that"...looks like Bill Gates got into the bike world as well;).

"is I wish I had some"...yer too modest.Probably the most savvy guy here.....

No Grn, being wrong schools me. Where I came up with the no start, then read the abstract that it does, now that pretty much blows away the cam sensor as not needed. Bean count and use the backup of the old sensor gen1? Beats me? It's binary no matter how you look at it.

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Thanks, Grn, but Gates I believe, threw Stoner to the ground. A honda press release said the last telemetry reading was the throttle position was stuck open at 26 or 23%. Imagine that being the 14 or H2 in that position and you are not in control.

Same goes with this thing. A binary bumble is either a chip-resistor-capacitor. Those are the 3 basic parts that burn out on the board. So as far as how it goes out, with a stumble/phantom ping/no start is who knows about that brick?

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