I will likely need a replacement engine or rebuild on 2016 zx14
Does anyone have any recommendations on a new engine or getting a rebuild in terms of cost ?
I'm located in the Bay Area CA
Thanks

Depends if you do the work or say add labor to the list. I would tally what parts you need to replace. They seem to have the cheapest parts. I've used them so if you go for the parts end https://www.ronayers.com/

Say on the engine replacement side: it takes out a crank end on either side let's say. So you have to find no damage on either crank cover or walk.

In WOT way did the engine stop running? Who determined the failure? Very little to go on as to who would be the better choice.

Thanks for the response
The engine turns over but the short period the shop had tested this , they just said it sounded horrible, it is currently at a shop , waiting until they have a slot to examine it further.

I was taking it there for them to take a quick look since I noticed a slight tick sound that didn't sound serious, however during the short ride to the shop it became progressively worse and cut out. The engine is not seized but def. something wrong with it

I can't do this work myself I'm not a mechanic but I have had the bike for sometime, for the most part kept the reg maint. work but always kept with the oil changes.

They are saying to tear the engine down to get a look at what is happening is 800-900 so unless I plan on following through with a rebuild this would be a waste of money. I can't get any figure from them in regards to an upper bound on the cost so I'm trying to gauge this myself or perhaps find another engine and what that would be in terms of cost otherwise I suspect I should probably just get another bike

As for the bike its a 2016SE model, so this was the last year for the SE I believe , it's the matte black version, the one that I wanted, I put just over 50K on it but from what I was reading some people have been able to get theirs over a 100 so I was hoping for a few more miles on it before something like this happened

Unfortunate. 50k miles isn't bad but as you say 100k would've been better.

To answer your question, I don't really know. Depending on how quickly you want to be back riding, the used engine market, the price of new engine, your budget. I would probably just get another bike. 50k miles isn't the worst, and I'm sure you could get a few bucks out of it. But then you're entire bike DOES have 50k miles on it, and probably needs/or nearing needing other work (forks/shock rebuild there's a grand). Essentially, although I don't feel likely, the bike is in that "anything could go at any time" age, although nothing as significant as the engine.

What is labor estimate on swapping the engine? If they were able to quote a new Kaw engine and labor, OTD, what would it be? $10k? The last time I was perusing Ebay, it seems like used Gen 2 motors were around $4k (plus shipping). If I guessed probably a couple day's shop time should be enough time to perform the swap, so somewhere around 12-16 hours seems plausible. So minimally you're probably looking at $6kish, and then you have the unknown of a used engine.

Now my indirect questions/suggestions...(don't read if you don't care)

As far as maintenance, have you always done the valve clearance inspections?

How long was it making the noise prior to you identifying this as something you should get looked into?

Are you familiar at all with typical engine failure sounds? Like the difference between a knock a failed bearing makes (typically more thunky, less metallic/pingy) vs something in the valve train (typically more tingy sounding or short distinct )? And then there's the cam chain tensioner, which CAN absolutely sound like the engine is about to explode. Does the sound change directly with engine RPM? Sometimes sounds are discernible between being related to the crank rotating, or the valve train rotating.

You're really kind of hosed as far as options and $$$$, IE there's not going be a cheap way out of this.

Hub and a few others here MIGHT be able to arm chair diagnose/suggest an issue if you could post a video of it running. If you can get video, obviously starting it is at your own risks as to whether or not it could cause more damage. it might be worth it, it might not.

Maybe have them start with some basics, not just pulling the engine. Visual inspection of cylinders, if not signs of major issues compression test. Check the cam chain tensioner and cam timing. Check valve clearances. Check the clutch basket area.

Any kind of noise appears is a quick stab at the kill switch and never start it again. You really don't want to snowball more parts that are damaged now, then add more on the restart. Fastest guess is to drop the oil pan and see what parts are laying there. Say none. Then it might be a dropped valve.

Bad news if it is. This would take a new cylinder wall repair but can be salvaged. So say a valve drops. It may take a new head, or could be cleaned up with new valves, guides with a cut to new seat inserts, polished out or added weld to bring back what was carved away.

Bottom line, grab the bike and drop the oil pan. I doubt they have a scope to view the cylinder from the spark plug hole. Being it still turns over, might still have a straight con rod. If it hit the valve, it could C the rod having a bend that severe. But then again, it could come around and punch out the lower cylinder wall. Thus the damage will show up in the pan.

Say a leak down shows all have under 10% leak down. That says not the top end. Carve out the pleats inside the oil filter. Shows aluminum and brass. Could be just the crankshaft. Bottom line, better to find a used runner with the same gen family and have a rolling parts bike.

Thanks for the replies, I found a used engine on its way
The noise wasn't tingy but more of the thunk, the bike cut out and I didn't start it after , the engine didn't seize up but sounded really bad ... according to the shop, to find out what the issue was meant they would have to tear it down which was expensive on its own ... so made no point to get that done unless I was going to get it fixed.

Good, hopefully that works out. We have a hive mind around here. If you wouldn't mind posting what you're repairs are and cost, it probably will help someone in the future.

Hub/others, in my post I wasn't necessarily suggesting exact steps to take, more along the lines of it should NOT take a tear down to really determine some level of destruction. Actually, now that I think about it a little more, the QUICKEST "first assessment" should've just been an oil drain and possible filter inspection for metal. That might still be worth doing, that shouldn't require anything other than the first half of an oil change, and if their any decent shop they'd have a filter cutter tool. The fact the shop didn't even suggest THIS, is a red flag to me.

As commonly as we hear of corrupt repair shops, I would not necessarily just take their word on anything. There's plenty of motorcycle and auto streamers these days and it almost seems more often to hear about corrupt and/or incompetent shops than good, knowledgeable, honest shops. Car Wizard is a perfect example, and his shop get's vehicles from states away where either incompetent or lying shops claimed they did work they didn't, couldn't figure out a problem (the most recent was a fairly simple A/C issue in Volvo). So as the old saying goes, caveat emptor.