From the threads I linked below, it appears there must be some variation in evaporative emissions systems of various years of ZX-14. I’ve read that the evap consisted of a canister and a separator under the seat. My 24 has only the canister in the RH side fairing along with a hose marked with blue tape. The canister has another hose which has green tape.

My fuel tank is just like the Gen1 with one nipple at the back, bottom on
the left with blue tape and one nipple at the back, bottom on the right that exits below the LH foot peg and has brown tape.

The blue hose comes off of a nipple at the RH back of the fuel tank. This must be the fuel tank overflow and vent, the blue hose routes under the fuel tank, around the RH side of the top of the engine, over the ram air tube and down to the canister in the fairing. The green hose comes from the canister, over the ram air tube and into the purge valve that is fastened to the RH fairing hanger bracket. A second green tube comes out of the purge valve and goes directly to a nipple on the throttle bodies #4 bore.

This is how I assume this thing works: liquid gasoline overflow and vapors are released from the nipple at the RH back of the fuel tank. These travel up the blue hose where they are deposited in the canister in the RH fairing. If the canister becomes full enough that the evaporative emissions are forced up the green hose to the purge valve, the purge valve opens and vacuum from throttle bodies #4 draws the evaporated/overflowed fuel to cylinder #4. The evaporated/overflowed fuel is burned in the engine.

Simply put, the blue hose from the gas tank is the overflow/vent that emptied on the ground behind the LH foot peg on my Gen1. The green hose, canister and purge valve are what were put in place so the waste fuel and vapor would get burned. Sound about right?

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=52A358A9-1372-66AE-3BA6B5CA798EA415

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=B971EE14-D56B-84E2-1ED00B6874E4231E

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=3C692B10-05D3-0D9B-8BF360604A055F1C

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=F50E89FC-1372-66AE-3B015EB5E9721838

https://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=43208

pissear was on that last one.

Watch the thread please, I already have more questions. mainly I’d just like to know if my understanding of the evap on the 2024 sounds accurate to you. I’ll be going farther with this. Ultimate goal is to delete as much as the evap as possible.

3 nipples out of the back of the tank is the one is a weather drain between the gas tank and gas cap. The remaining 2 are the overflow of gas topped off, and the last one is for tank venting at the edge of the gas tank to the gas cap's covering.

Next time you have the gas cap lifted, note a little nipple protrusion at the bottom of the gas cap. Slowly close the cap and follow the hole at the tank the nipple sides into.

One hose catches the fluid, the other hose is the tank's vent into the bottom of the separator. The 3rd hose hooks into the separator. Then one out hose from the separator goes into the canister. Canister's hose goes up to one of the cylinders, the other hose from the bottom of the separator hooks to another injector's intake.

Canister turn the liquid into a vapor, or if send via liquid, it would puddle and not flow being sucked only once out of 4 times total.

Does an evap system lose or gain HP if not hooked in this closed loop system? Oh fuck no! It's laced in thin air and only if wet at the canister does it a tiny whiff of added fuel to one cylinder. Get it?

Thanks Hub.

3 nipples out of the back of the tank is the one is a weather drain between the gas tank and gas cap. The remaining 2 are the overflow of gas topped off, and the last one is for tank venting at the edge of the gas tank to the gas cap's covering.

The old California setup is more complex than the 14's current evap system. The tag on the LH rear of my air box reads: "...conforms to U.S. EPA and California regulations applicable to 2024 model year motorcycles..." Apparently, all later model Gen2s are the same now regardless of any/all US regulations. I have no separator under the seat. I have two nipples at the back of the gas tank just like my 49 states Gen1 had.

Next time you have the gas cap lifted, note a little nipple protrusion at the bottom of the gas cap. Slowly close the cap and follow the hole at the tank the nipple sides into.

I know exactly what you're talking about, that little port from the gas cap sealed at the fuel tank ring. It has the little gasket that can get dropped in the tank when the gas cap is completely removed. That port is where the gasoline is expelled if the tank is overfilled. It must also expel fuel vapor. The other hole in the gas cap ring is just to drain any water that gets under the edge of the gas cap bezel. Each hole had its own tube that ran down to behind the lower LH foot peg on my Gen1. Although the tubes were capable of draining, they must also have let air into the gas tank to displace fuel as it was used up. There was no third tube from the back of the gas tank on my 49 states Gen1 nor is there a third on my 2024. It looks like the blue tape tube from the back of the gas tank on my 2024 is overflow and the other which has brown tape is the water drain. There's a green tape tube but that only runs between the evap canister and T-body bore #4, it's not directly connected to the gas tank at all.

Does an evap system lose or gain HP if not hooked in this closed loop system? Oh fuck no! It's laced in thin air and only if wet at the canister does it a tiny whiff of added fuel to one cylinder. Get it?

Yeah, no big deal as far as riding the bike but:
1) it does weigh 2.2 lbs,
2) it adds to the clutter around the engine.
3) If there is an overflow, it can make the bike difficult to start (I like to fill my fuel tank to the gills for storage).
4) A code will also result if the purge valve doesn't run properly.
5)There's some chance the evap might interfere with perfect T-bodies vacuum sync (can the vacuum be the same when sucking liquid gas as it is when not?).

I don't want any of it. The only possible drawback to removing it is that the exhaust might produce a loud bang at 10,000 rpm (according the chrly in one of the threads listed in the OP).

It looks to me like what I'd do to delete the evap is:

-remove the canister from the fairing
-remove the blue tube from the canister and leave blue tube connected to nipple at the back of fuel tank. Route the blue tube down behind the LH foot peg where the water drain tube exits. Then it's just like my 49 states Gen1.
-disconnect purge valve from wiring harness, remove purge valve along with all green tubing. There is no need for the green tubing to carry vapors and liquid gasoline to T-body #4, the canister is gone and so is the purge valve.
-cap vacuum port on T-body #4 that was used to draw evaporative emissions.
-plug resistor into open connector from wiring harness for purge valve to prevent code. The ECU receives the same signal it should when the purge valve is opperating.

Here's the link, just the resister plug and a few vacuum caps. Brock makes one too and I believe Schnitz.

https://p3tuning-performanceparts.com/products/copy-of-kawasaki-z900-z900rs-2017-2023-evap-canister-removal-kit?variant=42359714021558

I have no idea what if any instructions are included with the kit (it's not a kit, it's a resister plug). These are made for many bikes and I have my doubts as to whether they made delete instructions for any. Brock is actually very inexpensive and there, you could count on tech support.

This why I'm posting this thread, to figure out what I'm supposed to do. Does the outline of procedures look reasonable to you, Hub?

You said you ran a 48 states gas tank on your Cali bike, Hub. Like most of us non-Cali residents observed, the gas tank whistles like a tea kettle when the bike sits hot. That's air forcibly getting sucked in somewhere. Also, the WHOOSH of air when the gas cap was opened. You Cali setup with all three nipples and the evap didn't whistle or whoosh? That tells me it was allowing air in and out of the fuel tank better than the 48 states bikes. My Gen1 quite whistling when I put an aftermarket gas cap on it. The aftermarket had the overflow port that matched OEM but it also had a tiny hole in the neck of the gas cap and if nothing else did, that allowed air in and out of the tank to accommodate internal conditions. It had the fuel overflow but if an overflow went too high, the petrol just ran into the fuel tank ring via the tiny hole in the fuel tank neck and then down the water drain.

It had been a number of years I had ran the LighTec gas cap but one day, I found a pile of goop under my breather/overflow tubes behind the LH foot peg. This was just after a four hour, hot weather ride. Supposedly (I think you suggested this) part of the system was pugged with wax that was used to seal the bike up at the factory. It finally melted out. I wonder if my gas tank would have been a whistler after the wax was expressed from the tube if I had stayed with the OEM gas cap? IOW, maybe the fuel tank has adequate air flow in and out but any bikes are plugged with wax.

Well, the aftermarket gas cap has to vent or the bike stops flowing gas into the fuel pump. So the aftermarket is the constant 14.7psi no matter the heat/cold.

I still use the bent/banged up 48 state tank I bought off the net. This tank has only two nipples at the rear. One for weather/rain drain, the other is the gas cap vent. Doubles as an overflow/vent. So I run a long hose up at the back of the bike, under the seat. I use an aftermarket gas cap so it vents at the cap.

Any gas in the hose probably walks back up the tank when I brake hard with a low level of gas in the tank. Race bike uses a one-way vent in the overflow line at the top of the race tank. Bike comes in and I can see gas in the line.

Well, the aftermarket gas cap has to vent or the bike stops flowing gas into the fuel pump. So the aftermarket is the constant 14.7psi no matter the heat/cold.

The LighTec I bought for my 08 has a tiny hole right at the top of the neck of the gas cap bezel. It is also equipped with the overflow nipple that fits to the OEM overflow gasket. They're probably still on sale at OPP Racing and they are very inexpensive compared to the old price. I bought two ew ones, about thirty bucks each plus tax and shipping. Highly recommended except the light blue and the indigo are both nowhere near the standard blue anodizing of most other high quality parts.

I still use the bent/banged up 48 state tank I bought off the net. This tank has only two nipples at the rear. One for weather/rain drain, the other is the gas cap vent. Doubles as an overflow/vent.

I figured the overflow must also serve as a vent to let fumes out and air in. Gasoline turns to vapor, that fills much more volume than liquid so it has to escape. Obviously air has to come into the tank as the fuel level decreases. ...so you have the overflow on the 48 states bikes to do both plus expel fumes and liquid gasoline if necessary. Now all recent 14Rs have this setup but they also have the evap. ....which brings up another possible disadvantage to leaving the evap on the bike, if the purge valve is closed or if the canister contains liquid gasoline, is the fuel tank able to take air in as necessary? That overflow line is the only path for air into the tank if you have the OEM gas cap.

So I run a long hose up at the back of the bike, under the seat. I use an aftermarket gas cap so it vents at the cap.

I'm sure the OEM overflow and rain tubes for the Gen1 would fit the Gen2. Those were made of lighter material but they were nice because they molded to rout around the gas tank if I recall. I think I'll order those for my Gen2 if those parts are still available...but the current tubes would work just fine if all you need to do is run the tubes down to the LH foot peg.

Any gas in the hose probably walks back up the tank when I brake hard with a low level of gas in the tank.

...or gets sucked back to the tank when the bike cools down and the volume of vapor and gasoline in the tank shrinks.

I've heard of very little trouble with the evap sysytem on the 14. The only thing is if you overfill and the canister actually has to expel liquid gas, it makes starting the bike difficult, the engine is flooded. I really haven't seen any threads about this problem, just mention of the possible issue. Even so, I want to rid my new 14R of the whole shebang. That PAIR under there is something else too! ...even more hoses than the Gen1. ....Im not sure what I'm looking at but my 2024 has two more great big pipes to delete unless that's something else other than the PAIR.

Well, I'm ordering the evap delete kit. Looks like I'll be plugging in the resistor and capping of the T-body where the evap goes. The purge valve goes too. The setup will be just like my Gen1 was.

I enquired with Brock's about the product that is literally called a "Purge Valve Eliminator" and the tech support person sent me info on PAIR removal.

I suspect the same plug works for PAIR as evaporative emissions but I'm not telling her that. It's her job to know that and I don't think she does yet...so I'm waiting.

...not real impressed with Brock's tech support at this time.