There’s going to be so many questions. I’m gathering information from our resident experts and Richard Peppler of RCC Turbos. I’ve already started building a FAQ list based on my own questions as I consider which system is right for me. I’ll edit in here on the OP as the list becomes more complete.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/8/2025 @ 6:44 AM *

First questions:

1. Should go directly to the RCC Stage 2 Ultra or start off with a Stage 1 and upgrade?

2. Assuming I go straight to the Stage 2 Ultra, can I safely run it on low boost until I have completed the necessary engine mods to run it at full power?

3. Can I install the entire turbo system myself and do all the engine mods necessary to run it? …or is this something only a professional mechanic should do?

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/8/2025 @ 6:42 AM *

Ask the guy selling the turbo if it is a bolt on kit, no machine work needed?

Difference between stage 1 and 2 is what?

I'd go stage 2 being it runs normal until spooled up. Can use base gaskets for lower pressure (if applies), 2 head gaskets I doubt, or if someone makes a thicker copper race kind of gasket.

You'd have to run a low comp piston if the stage 2 requires it. Pulling the engine and splitting the cases should not be a problem for your aptitude, Rook.

Kit wise is seeing some turbo hardware to mount that puppy on. So no machining to be done, or buying spare flat steel plate for turbo hanging frame/engine supports.

Ask the guy selling the turbo if it is a bolt on kit, no machine work needed?

I'm sure the RCC turbo itself is straight bolt on just like a header. It's made for the ZX-14 so it must fit right up. I wouldn't be surprise if it would be necessary to do some drilling and tapping threads for oil lines and maybe fab up some light retainer brackets. I will ask him about the need for machining though.

Difference between stage 1 and 2 is what?

I'd go stage 2 being it runs normal until spooled up. Can use base gaskets for lower pressure (if applies), 2 head gaskets I doubt, or if someone makes a thicker copper race kind of gasket.

You'd have to run a low comp piston if the stage 2 requires it. Pulling the engine and splitting the cases should not be a problem for your aptitude, Rook.

Thanks for the vote of confidence Hub. I might have a go at this. Nastynotch said he thinks I can do it too. Turbo pistons and HD connecting rods are required for higher levels of boost.

The intercooler with the Stage 2 Ultra grabs me. As far as spooling, Richard from RCC Turbos said the ZX-14 has virtually no lag. The engine starts making 1 psi of boost at 1500 rpm and rises to target boost at 3500 rpm. The Hayabusa does have a little lag with the RCC turbo.

Kit wise is seeing some turbo hardware to mount that puppy on. So no machining to be done, or buying spare flat steel plate for turbo hanging frame/engine supports.

Have a look for yourself, Hub. There's all kinds of interesting junk that comes with each kit.

https://rccturbos.com/products/current-turbo-kits/kawasaki-zx14

`

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/9/2025 @ 7:00 AM *

Gulp, that is a lot of Benji's. Carillo rods for sure. Have to plastiguage the crank rods or tool up and have inside/outside mic's to measure. Very critical there. Insurance for sure are the rods being changed no matter the boost. Just saying even the stage1 is how I'd approach it.

I'd only be splitting the case once if at all possible. The rods and pistons would get changed along with anything else in there that needed to be addressed. I seem to recall Romans speaking of running turbo on a completely stock engine. He was increasing the boost incrementally but never found the point where it blew up. The integrity of the engine must have outlasted his nerve.

Hub, from my emails with Richaard Peppeler:

OK, maybe a silly question but since we're on the topic of required engine mods, could the Stage 2 Ultra setup be run on low boost using only the equipment included in the kit? ...and I'm sure some kind of fuel management system or a flash.

...in other words, RCC turbo on completely stock engine internals.

Richard Peppler
Wed, Jan 8, 6:16?PM (3 days ago)
Absolutely.

Richard Peppler
Thu, Jan 9, 7:27?AM (2 days ago)

to me

The secondary ecu included with the stage 2 will look after the tuning, just leave the 4 or 6 psi waste gate spring in the gate and you will be fine on a stock engine, waste gate spring is dependent on the year of your bike,

So hub, the Stage 2 RCC turbo is a pretty expensive aftermarket exhaust but it doesn't just release a few hp, it actually creates hp! I'd want to build the engine to get all the turbo has to offer but until that time....260~280m rwhp...? That might be within reach with no engine mods. Like a nitrous kit but you never need to worry about the bottles going low.

Fordtech is bringing up the matter of available fuel management for such a new bike though. It' a bit of a challenge to get OEM parts for a 2024 let alone aftermarket stuff that interfaces with the ECU. I still have a wrecked 2008 though, don't I.

In ongoing conversations with Richard Peppler, he explained that the Stage 2 kit includes a secondary ECU that monitors boost pressure and adjusts fueling. I don't know if "plug and play" is quite the right idiom but ...."lots of hours of work and play" might be perfectly accurate. ...anyway, looks like the kit is designed to run on the bike with all the loose ends tied up.

To the question of machining, there is no need as far I'm aware right now. The air box needs to be drilled and tapped to fit a fuel rail. Fordtech58 mentioned dropping the engine to do this (so you can fit the drill under there I assume). RCC instructions say to drill from inside the air box. Seems you'd need a very small drill or else a very long bit. Either way, hope to heck the holes exit in exactly the right place under the air box so the fuel rail mounts match up. I can see why a person might choose to drop the engine just to drill these holes into the air box rather than try drilling from the other side and hoping they match up. I might pay a machine shop to do this. You F up the airbox, you buy a whole new frame to replace it.

If there's any other safe way to mount this fuel rail, I'd try it before drilling the air box on a new bike.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/14/2025 @ 6:29 AM *

Fordtech58, Romans, you think a person could fab out some tabs to mount the fuel rail and have them welded to the underside of the air box instead of drilling and hoping for the best? Weld tabs and maybe not need to drop the engine. Screw up the positioning, no big deal to grind the tabs off and try again. Screw up drilling through the air box and you are really screwed.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/15/2025 @ 6:26 AM *

Rook I think you're over thinking it as I don't believe it'll be a problem. I reviewed the printed copy I have of the stage 2 instructions. You DON'T have to lower the engine, you use the new fuel rail to mark the 2 locations to be drilled. You drill the 2 holes with a 90 degree drill and a short bit. One hole goes between the 1-2 throttle bodies and 1 between the 3-4 throttle bodies. IF you happened to miss the alignment you're drilling a 6mm hole which could easily be sealed with a 2 part epoxy that you're already using to plug factory holes near the steering stem. I'll make another attempt to get you the instructions by the weekend.

Thanks, Fordtech58. I'm not so sure a slightly misaligned hole would be a small problem. If you're off by only a couple milimeters, then you need to drill in almost exactly the same spot you just filled with epoxy. Maybe it will seem a lot less daunting once I see what I'm working with.

Hey rook, can you send me the installation instruction for the stage 2?

Cheers

.......well sure. I will send that along directly, OZ. Takes about 25 minutes to read and understand if you know the ZX-14 as obviously you do. No intercooler instructions. I sent an email to RCC asking to see that.

I'm sure I'm going to go ahead with this. The only issue at this point is money and that's not an issue for me I'm happy to say. Not too many times in my life has money not been an issue.

...the other issue I'm grappling with is cutting and drilling on a brand new friggin bike. I mean, money is not an issue but it sure isn't growing on a tree I'm picking it off of. I'd rather do this to a bike 5 years old or more.

OZ, we were communicating by PM here on the forum. PM me your email so I can send that file.

PM sent

emails sent. Let me know if there's any problem with the files I sent you. I put the intercooler instructions in there too. Just got that a day ago. Looks awesome! Kind of a weird place for the heat exchanger, right in front of the radiator..... ? I'll have to ask Richard about that. Must work ok but seems you're sacrificing some engine cooling to gain intake cooling....

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/26/2025 @ 9:40 PM *

Far positioning the intercooler heat exchanger in front of the radiator, Richard said there is no noticeable difference in engine temps. The heat exchanger is only trading heat when the bike is operating at higher speeds, there isn't much boost happening in normal street riding.

I actually wasn't even thinking about the heat the heat exchanger might give off, my concern was that the heat exchanger seems like it would reduce the airflow to the top front surface of the radiator. I'm taking Richard's word that the heat exchanger has no effect on engine coolant temperature. He's been developing this product for years.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/29/2025 @ 6:25 AM *

A bit of a surprise but you're going to add weight by going with an intercooled turbo. The whole kit weighs 50 lbs and the stock exhaust should be about 40 lbs. Also, RCC turbo isn't giving the green light on CF wheels. He's experienced CF wheel cracking after just a few passes on his Prostreet bike and I assume that was drag racing. Lots of stress on those wheels, massive torque in back and wheelies up front. I'm crossing carbon wheels off the mod list for this bike. I think a set of white OEM wheels or maybe aluminum but not CF.

I've been using them for 3 years now 6.75" rear with a slick. 1.261 best 60ft. granted I'm currently only about 300hp a lot less than a prostreet bike but also a lot heavier. The fault in my opinion is usually the choice of BST wheel. The 7 spoke is the ONLY one listed by BST as acceptable for drag racing. That was 3 years ago now, not sure what they list or suggest now as they have developed at least one new design.

Thanks Fordtech. I'll have plenty of time to mull that one over. I don't see making any high ticket purchases for this bike for a while after I buy the turbo kit.