Hi everyone,
I’m looking to flash my bike using the Woolich Racing kit and I currently have a Yoshimura R77 exhaust system installed.
Before I pull the trigger, I wanted to check if anyone here is running this exact setup?
How is the throttle response and overall performance?
Any specific recommendations or "dos and don'ts" when flashing with this exhaust?
Are there any known issues or map adjustments I should be aware of?
Would love to hear any pros, cons, or general tips you guys might have.
Thanks in advance!

If it's slipons, the tune should be closer to the stock fueling than a full system. Even so, with the tightening environmental regulations, the stock fueling might be a lot leaner than if was with the Gen1.

---

Actually, I have a full system installed. Given that, do you think it's running too lean now?

I wouldn't run it at high rpm on a full system. There was a day with the Gen1 when you could do whatever you want with exhaust because the whole stock map was rich. I would think leaning the fueling back would be the simplest way to meet environmental regulations. The stock fuel mapping might be very lean. This shouldn't be a real issue unless you run the engine at high rpm. I hae a friend who owns the same bike I own, a 2024 ZX-14R. He's ridden it 2 years with slipons and no problem but I think he avoids the upper revs.

I'm not familiar with the Woolich race kit. Is it an auto tuner....you do a run and the Woolich system records fuel trims? I've done that via Dynojet. it works....just you need to go insanely fast for huge amounts of road if you want to tune the lower throttle positions.

---

Hi everyone,
I’m looking to flash my bike using the Woolich Racing kit and I currently have a Yoshimura R77 exhaust system installed.
Before I pull the trigger, I wanted to check if anyone here is running this exact setup?
How is the throttle response and overall performance?
Any specific recommendations or "dos and don'ts" when flashing with this exhaust?
Are there any known issues or map adjustments I should be aware of?
Would love to hear any pros, cons, or general tips you guys might have.
Thanks in advance!

I'm finding limited info on the cost of that kit, but it looks like
it might be $300-$400 US.
If you are a programing pro and have extensive mapping experience,
it's probably a good option. For me though this would be a
frightening proposition. You have a full exhaust, as Rook mentioned
that makes a difference, from everything I've read slip-ons
don't require as much attention in programming if any when
compared with a full exhaust.
For my money, and my lack of programming skills, I wouldn't
touch a kit.
I bought a second ECU for my 2013 and will be sending it
to Ivan's Performance shop, I'll keep the OEM for a base
for comparisons. I would use Ivan or one of the other
Flashing shops, I think the cost might be similar to
that of buying a flashing kit.
A good 'flasher' is going to have a questionnaire
to fill out so they can give you the best possible
flash and you can get them to program in or out
certain features you want to keep or get rid of
or change original factory mapping, to suit your
riding style.
Also, the main reason I bought a spare to have flashed
is that I do not want to take a chance on losing
my OEM ECU through shipping problems,
and don't want my bike inoperable while waiting for
the ECU's return.

///////

Thanks for the input. You are completely right about the full exhaust versus slip-ons. A full system changes the exhaust scavenging and airflow so much that running it on the stock fuel maps is a bad idea, especially in the low and mid RPM range where it tends to run lean.

That is exactly why I decided to go with the Woolich kit instead of a mail-in flash. I wanted to have direct control over the secondary throttle plates and fuel tables to make sure the bike breathes properly with the Yoshimura system.

I actually just finished building a baseline map where I opened up the secondary throttle plates to a ten percent minimum floor across all gears to fix the factory low-end restriction, and carefully smoothed out the fuel tables.

It can be a bit intimidating at first, but having the ability to view the maps and make precise adjustments based on real-world feel is exactly what I was looking for. I will keep you guys updated on how it runs once I flash this version.

That is exactly why I decided to go with the Woolich kit instead of a mail-in flash. I wanted to have direct control over the secondary throttle plates and fuel tables to make sure the bike breathes properly with the Yoshimura system.

Great that you're able to program it.
If I had the background and skill,
I'd surely do the same, it's way over my head though,
and Ivan in particular based his maps on his own
ZX14R.
He states on his website exactly what he'll
do for my bike, with full exhaust or
with slip-ons, and will let me opt in or out of the
several aspects of the flash, as well as adjust
for changes that might turn out to not work for me.
So yeah, if I had the skillset, I'd do my own,
but my tech savvy ends shortly beyond oil changes.

Painkiller, I was planning to go with a Moore Mafia flash but I'd love to be able to see what exactly he does to the stock maps with my own Woolich software. Is it possible to use the software to view and copy the stock mapping before the ECU is flashed?

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/31/2026 @ 3:18 PM *

---

Yeah, absolutely! That’s the very first thing you do when you connect to the ECU for the first time. You can also flash it back to stock at any point without any worries.

Thanks. In my experience, it's pretty risky to build your entire map off of self tuning. LOL if you want to tune 20% throttle, you end up riding quite a distance over a pretty long period of time most of which is well over the speed limit. The bike goes pretty fast at 20% throttle, it just takes a lot of road to find the point where it stops accelerating. I had used Dynojet Autotune on public roads in the past. I think I've played all my cards since then. I'm going with a professional flash but I want to see what he does to the stock tables. First step, I'll be getting a Woolich racing kit. Then we'll see what my tuner has to offer. Maybe I'll try adjusting a few things.

---

I came across a used one time Woolich racing package. Says he paid about $800 for it and is asking for an offer. Is this exactly what I want from Woolich products if I want to self tune? He said he also has the race tools which he paid another $250 for. What are the race tools?

Will I be paying a monthly fee for the Woolich software?

---

G'Day Painkiller,
Yes, I have the Woolich system (including the A/F gauge) with R77's.
The gauge is great because it tells you in real time if you are rich or lean.
So far, I haven't run lean but also haven't had the chance to run flat-out at top-end.
I didn't install the system but bought the bike with it already fitted. So I now need (somehow) to convince Woolich to let me in on the mapping as they are rather protective of their maps (fair enough).
At this stage I am happy with the set-up.

---

It's not possible to see the map tables even if you have the software? There must be a way to make the tables invisible. I was hoping to make copies of all my stock tables and compare that to Chris Moore's flash but I imagine he makes his tables invisible too.

---

...I just was reading a thread on the org and it appears most tuners lock the ECU. If you buy their flash, Woolich software is useless unless you unlock the ECU. If the ECU is unlocked, the previous flash is gone.

---

They lock the Bin file not the ECU

It's not possible to see the map tables even if you have the software? There must be a way to make the tables invisible. I was hoping to make copies of all my stock tables and compare that to Chris Moore's flash but I imagine he makes his tables invisible too.

As you may recall, I had no interest in trusting the mail,
or all points in between as being 100% assured that
nothing could go wrong with flashing my OEM ECU,
''NOT TO WORRY'' LOL,
about preserving my OEM ECU's program, ''it 'should' be fine''
etc,
so I searched and found a spare ECU to be used for
flashing, I then tested that 2nd ECU, to verify that
it worked on my bike before having it flashed.
I still haven't sent it off but at least I'm
not worried about losing it or being without my
bike if something goes wrong with the flash or shipping.
--
Also for readers; My bike was a CA bike so of the
many thousands of US ZX14rs sold for my year, there
are probably only a few hundred CA bikes and the
other thousands of used ECU's across the country
will NOT properly replace my Calif emissions-choked ECU.

EDIT for readers; My bike is a 2013, I don't have information
on which years beside the 2013 came with the ridiculous
'California-Only' ECU's.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 6/14/2026 @ 11:40 AM *

Also for readers; My bike was a CA bike so of the
many thousands of US ZX14rs sold for my year, there
are probably only a few hundred CA bikes and the
other thousands of used ECU's across the country
will NOT properly replace my Calif emissions-choked ECU.

All US ZX-14Rs have been the same as California models for the past several years. The sticker on mine says "conforms to US EPA and California regulations applicable to 2024". That doesn't necessarily mean an ECU from any 14R since they stopped making a 48 states model will work on any other. However, once used 2024 ECUs become more available, I wouldn't need to worry if it was a CA ECU or 48 states, they're all the same as long as they're 2024.

They lock the Bin file not the ECU

Same result though, hey? You can't view the Bin file, all you can do is wipe it away and start all over.

---

Not sure if it's related to my Woolich system but...
I cannot change my display from km's/lt to lts/100kms.
Nor can I adjust my clock?
My owners manual is for a gen1 model with the two buttons on the dash not for my model which doesn't have these buttons and operated by the left hand switches on the bars.
any thoughts would be appreciated.

---

Switch to ODO mode: Use the meter switch on the left handlebar to toggle the display to the total odometer (ODO). The change cannot be made if the screen is currently in Trip mode or another menu.
Change the units: Press and hold the meter switch (for about 2–3 seconds, either up or down depending on the software version) until the display switches from mph/miles to km/h/kilometers.

Thanks for the tip Painkiller but sadly my bike does not go into the menu page at all (even in Odo mode) :(

---