Hi everyone :). I have a 2011 ZX14 that is coming upto 16K miles. According to the service schedule it is due for its valve clearance check. However, I notice that the 2012 ZX14R does not require checking until 26K miles. Why such a huge difference?

Thanks Spanish

Good question. Lets say 20k or less is max range. Could be quality of gas if one reads a western/euro/asian owner's manual. Just guessing on one aspect of said range gap.

While I'm not sure why there's a difference, I would highly recommend doing to the check & adjustment if this is your first valve clearance check. On my bike (and others on the forum) most of my valves needed adjusting at the first check interval, I have checked mine a couple of times a few years after the first valve service and all have been in spec ever since.

If you are even reasonably mechanically inclined you can do this job yourself, its time consuming the first time you do it but not overly hard as long as you are careful (keep track of what you unplug, what component goes where, etc). It also wasn't overly expensive, I had to change 12 shims, but only needed to buy 2 or 3 shims since you can reuse shims you removed. Also, I would recommend buying a new valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets, I reused mine but they started seeping/leaking after a while.

Rook did up a great tutorial a while back, read through it before starting the project:

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=D659042A-D56B-84E2-1C5A7BC825184613

* Last updated by: Nightmare on 11/24/2016 @ 7:28 AM *

My US/CA BBW 2014 14R manual specifies check/adjust at 15K miles and other than (US, CA and AU models) its 26K miles

The tutorial up there is for the Gen1 so disassembly will be a bit different for your 2012. refer to your service manual for torque specs and other possible differences. I hear the Gen 2 is extremely cramped under the air box so you will probably want to do the full treatment and remove throttle bodies. If not, make sure the valve cover is very clean and I would take the extra time to cover every single bit of it with tape to avoid scraping (I even scraped my gen1 cover pulling it out wth t-bodies in) or dislodging baked on debris and dropping into the top of the motor.

Also, I would recommend buying a new valve cover and spark plug gaskets, I reused mine but they started seeping/leaking after a while.

I believe Nightmare meant to say "new valve cover gasket and new spark plug gaskets". I reused my valve cover gasket after the first valve check at 24,000 miles (way overdue and all exhaust were tight + a couple intakes) and it leaked minimally. It was leaking before that which was reduced by placing washers on top of the ring-os.. Speaking of which, add a new set of ring-Os to the parts list. They're just a few bucks and they should maintain proper compression on the valve cover to keep it sealed. Second valve check was about 38,000 I think and all clearances were same as when adjusted at 24,000.

Me personally, I think your risk is small if you let it go to 24,000 miles as specced. My guess is they have already changed about as much as they are going to for a long time.

Rook,

Good catch on both the Gen 1 differences and the typo (I just edited my previous post and fixed that)! I can't imagine it being anymore cramped under the airbox than the gen 1 is right already... :(

I would just follow the specified interval. I don't think I've ever seen anyone with a zx14 not have some clearance that needed adjustment. Most of us needed multiple.

I bought the replacement gaskets. I ended up reusing the valve cover gasket, but put the new spark plug hole gaskets on. I only did this because I didn't want to take any chance of oil leaking into the spark plug tubes. Do I think it helped or made any difference? NO, not really. The gaskets that came off there looked perfect and were in no way damaged or different shaped or lost their elasticity. Just be careful with the valve cover gasket not to damage it or stretch it if you pull it up at all. What I say is if there's ANY doubt replace because you don't want to have to tear the whole bike apart again should there end up being a leak.

just my thoughts.

There has been quite a bit of discussion in many places about why manufacturers (Kawasaki is not unique in this regard) specify DIFFERENT service intervals for US (or Northamerica) market bikes vs. ROW (rest of world). The bikes are not built to different tolerances. Many suggest that the US spec is different to generate more income for dealers because the US market can support it. I think there may be something to that argument.

jwh

Interesting comments and I tend to agree with you. But,

When adjusting the valves on my '06 14 when I went into the local big box stealership service center and talked to the service manager about used shims because others here told me the service centers might just give me the shim sizes I needed from their can of used shims. When I went to inquire about used shime the service manager told me no one ever has the valves adjusted, he could not remember if they had ever checked and adjusted the valves on any of the 4-5 brands they sell. They get something like $800 to check and adjust the valves not including the throttle body sync. I'm sure some people do do it. I would if I wasn't capable of doing it myself.

I've stated this before several times, the hardest part for me setting the valve clearances was getting the shim sizes I needed, several had to come from Japan and took 3 weeks to get. Apparently the "Hot Bodies" shim kit is the way to go in advance of starting the adjustment. As Victhing said, more than 50% of mine were tight out of spec at 15K miles.

Hotcams worked for me but some of them were a little bit off in thickness when micromed. I was able to use most but ended up guessing/ordering a different size to replace some that were off. I also ordered some OEM shims because i remebered reading those were always dead on and indeed they were. If you are using the chart to select shims rather that doig the perfectionist measure and math comp, I think you will be ok with all Hotcams shims. If you find any are too far off, just order OEM. The few Kaw shims I ordered came in a few days but maybe I got lucky.

I always use the "Pro X Shims" available individually for $1.99 each and also come
in "half" sizes. I even buy extras to build my collection and love the half sizes.

Been using on different bikes for quit a few years.

At 18k I did mine. I think 1 was just out of spec and 4~5 were in spec
but right at min. so replaced them too while I was in there.

Available at Rocky Mountain ATV

Pro X Shims

* Last updated by: piken on 11/25/2016 @ 1:26 PM *

My first valve check/adjustment I just bought the couple of OEM shims that I needed, they were expensive but spot on for the size (so were all of the old shims). I picked up a shim kit which has a few of every size, mainly so I didn't have to wait for the shims to show up and the kit (non-OEM) was about the same price as 3 OEM shims... That being said, I have yet to use a single shim from the kit since all valves have been in spec since the initial adjustment (about 50k km ago)

Yeah .05 shims don't do us much good, our range is only .05 (intake) and .06 (ex) IRCC. We really need the .025 shims to prevent going over spec when you're on the bottom end. Also keeping as tight as tolerance as possible. .14 to .165 is better than going to a .19. Do I think it matters? Well it might be worth a hp and given what some people go through for 5 hp yeah, probably.

I'll be checking the clearances for the first time on my '07 in a few months. I have 19K on it.
Kind of nervous about it but I'm hoping Rook's tutorial will get me through it. I just can't make myself take it to a shop.

I'll guide you through it if you need KAK. I was nervous too. It's no big deal now. Clean the engine off really good and dig in. You have some tight valves. Use the chart for shim sizes. I really don't think it pays to determine shim size by math unless you're into it.

I'm pretty good with math. I'm not really sure what you mean by "use the chart" vs "determining shim size by math" but I haven't checked out my factory manual yet. My '79 GS is simple, measure and put in a thinner or thicker shim. No chart or involved math. Sounds like the 14 is different some way?
I plan to check the valves in February. I need time to finish working on my house and then the GS needs work first. I have to have the valve guides replaced. Smoking at warm up pretty bad. Hopefully the garage will warm up by then and I can tackle the 14. My first winter in Utah and it's colder than I'm used to. Thanks again Rook for the help you provide here.

The chart method of determining shim size is pretty much a standard way of doing it. You measure the clearance and the old shim and cross reference these two numbers on a grid. The correct shim size shows up in the box where x and y intetersect. Something like that. I did it the math way. both methods are in my tutorial.

Turned 23k on the speedo. First time checking valves. 6 are within spec, 10 are out of spec. Say on average the shims are 10 bucks each. That's $100 towards 10 shims... or, I buy a kit for 80 bucks and have extra shims and 20 bucks leftover. So I'm taking a chance (as per piken) with pro-x and hot cam shims... whereas, pro are whole, hot are half sizes. This way I can dial-in a lot closer clearance gap of the wider gap and have a longer interval check.

Plugs are dry at the porcelain and oil free up the plug threads. Oil level dropped slightly, but not as severe as the other (hard broken-in) 14's I had. The cover; broke free off of the rubber gasket so this way I pop the cover back on so as not to disturb the rubber gasket on the head.

1. 2 Shim kits = $150 shipped.
2. 4-Plugs/4-oil filters/2-fork seals = $105.
3. Eng. Oil = approx $5.00 worth.
4. Fork oil = $15.
5. Labor = $0.00
6. Want it done right... do it yourself = Priceless!

If you want to dial it in, then the Pro-X is the way to go.

Available in half sizes, increments of .025 vs Hot Cams increment of .05

Rocky Mountain has Free Shipping too on all orders right now.

Example of some sizes......

(Just make sure to get the 9.48 shims for the zx14)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/922/26634/Pro-X-Valve-Shim?term=shims

Pro-X Shims

* Last updated by: piken on 12/15/2016 @ 5:18 PM *

Pro-x shims aren't a risk. I Mic'd all mine out tolerance was not quite as good as Kaw's shims, but they were all within like .004mm average where as Kaw's were right around .001. Difference is minimal. I might be off a decimal point, but like a .250 shim might be .246 to .254

Hub you'll buy a new bike before you ever need to adjust them again.

Nice to know that the Pro-X shim kits have 1/2 sizes, in reality it doesn't matter if a .220mm shim is .225 when measured as long as the shim allows you to adjust the valve to the correct clearance. What DOES matter is how well the shim will hold up to over time, does it wear out faster than Kawi's shims? Actually, do the shims wear at all or would a .220mm shim be exactly the same size after 50k miles on them?

do the shims wear at all or would a .220mm shim be exactly the same size after 50k miles on them?

That will be the test on my end and that metallurgy question. Both brands in the same head. Both (me)trying to achieve equal opening times. Both having their own speed event at the opening and closing. I want cooler valves so the wider gap helps having more seat time to transfer heat. Grunt wise, I extend the diminishing return of the power stroke before it (ex) opens. Finally, see where my compression is? Then, see where I'm at with the 'pulse timing' of each cylinder, meaning, I have equal open/close timing, equal compression readings, now sync the throttles achieving... "The Smooth(er)" tuneup.