I was coming from the gas station and heard a little bump, thought it was one of the lowering links scraping the ground so i really didnt pay much attention to it. When i changed gears the rear wheel wanted to spin out, so when i got home i looked under the bike and thats when i saw the oil pan was busted...smh. I was pissed beyond belief when i saw oil pouring from around the drain plug. How easy/difficult is it to change the oil pan? and how much am i looking to spend to get it replaced?

I replaced my pan and it was straight forward, about a 4 on the 10 scale of difficulty.

The trick is, you cannot torque the pan bolts with a torque wrench (well, I could with a beam style super-light measuring inch/pounds, if I was really careful) so do it like this. After you lift the pan up into position, finger feed and tighten four corners or 1 on each side just to hold the pan up.

You have to make sure nothing fell out, that the gasket is in place, and that the pickup tube goes into the well properly. Its not all that hard if you align the pan as you push it up. Don't push hard, and you tell if something isn't right. If its right, a couple fingers pushing the bottom of the pan up will click it into place easily.

Make sure your gasket is flat, and I just put a tiny smear of oil (ever so tiny) to hold the gasket still. Make sure it is equally spaced on each side, so the holes in the gasket match up.

Now put the rest of the bolts in, finger tight only. Don't force the bolt in, if it won't go in the gasket is misaligned. Turn gingerly, make sure it bites the threads and doesn't bind at all.

Now, use one of the screw driver type socket holders, and two finger the handle on each bolt, alternating around the pan in a diagonal criss-cross pattern. When that is done, use the same driver and tighen in the same pattern, grabbing the handle with your whole hand.

Thats it. And don't even exert much on the final tightning. It doesn't take much to make a good seal.

Now run it, and if it doesn't leak, you did it right. Check after a couple hundred miles, but chances are the bolts are still tight.

Cost wise your best bet is Bike Bandit, and remember to buy the pan gasket at the same time. Probably a good idea to look at the fiche there and buy the gasket.

Can I do this without a stand? I have a feeling the will shop is going to charge $200 to install

Would be easiest with a center stand, but on the side stand you can do.

I just laid on the garage floor to do it all, no problem then really.

Since then, my Army injuries to my knees, back, left arm have gotten bad enough I couldn't do it now.

ls, is your bike lowered? if so you may not wanna put another oem pan back on it

Your text to link here...

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 6/3/2012 @ 4:45 PM *

I wasn't to tackle it myself but I don't want to get overwhelmed lol.
@scott yea its lowered a little. Not to much lower than stock.

How much oil would I lose by switching to the low profile pan? Would it be harmful?

No, you won't lose that much oil. Yes, you might need to cut the pickup and breather tubes down [if] none come with the pan. Then what? Take a deep breath. Stop with the aftermarket shit. Think about all these bumps you are familiar with. These are your danger zones. Buy a stock pan again, be more careful where you leave, enter, run over rr tracks; the list keeps climbing where you'll tag that sump pan bolt.

Buy a stand universal so you can work on the bike(s). Yes, you can change the pan on the side stand. Yes, two tubes may drop out. Keep an eye on who sits forward, and who sits in the back [when] the pan drops down. They both go back together in a certain position. Figure that out, you are home free.

It is easier if you have a lift!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I smacked the drain plug pushing mt 14 up the trailer ramp and it started leaking a little. I snugged the bolt down and no problems since but if it does I will pull the pan and see if the drain plug can be relocated to the side of the sump like we do on the ZRX's when they get lowered.

Like Hubberdoo says watch where orings fall out at and anything else that may fall

nothing to add
just saying good luck with the repair

is the o-ring on the oil pain itself?

To bad you are not local cause then you could do it in the garage. Everybody else uses it and I just supply the irritating company.

(Insert evil grinning smiley face)

www.osrbikes.com Shannon does top quality work.

I have never had a pan off my 14 but some ZRX's have had pans replaced in my garage including one that the customer fixed then had little to no oil pressure because he put the little oring in the wrong spot then cut it in half when he tightened the pan.
Good thing I keep a few gaskets, seals and orings stocked for ZRX's.

The service manual is oftem sometimes confusing so you start looking on different boards for pics that someone has posted that did what you are about to do. I may not comprehend a book very well but I can understand pictures.

only thing im still a little sketchy about is the O-ring that people keep saying will fall. the other small problem i just thought about is my swingarm dont have any swingarm spools lol, now i have to try to find some spool adapters so i can use a jack stand

The o-ring is inside, fits in a recess in the pan, and the return tube slides down into it.

If you drop the old pan carefully, you will see exactly where it goes, because it will stay with the pan in many cases.

Get a lowered pan, you're just going to break another stocker. The stock pan and drain bolt are way too low. Most places that chop the pan will shorten your pick-up for you as well
And you lose hardly any oil capacity, nothing to worry about at all.

i droped the pan yesterday, now i just have to find someeone tho send it to. What about the hose thats connected to the oil pickup?

You can just remove the hose completely, or cut it to the same length as the pick-up when you get the shortened pan back. I removed the hose completely on my boosted 14 because with boost you tend to get oil pushed out the crankcase breather with the hose in. Guys who race or run high rpm's for extended periods also remove the hose for the same reason. If you pull the hose be sure you get the clamp that holds it on also...its kind of hidden up in there. You don't want any chance of that getting hooked up on anything and floating around you're oil pan.

great advice. You should be around here more BnB.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/6/2012 @ 7:53 PM *

Considering he has done almost anything we might think of already, ya!

I remember the good old days when crank cases vented to atmosphere.

Thanks guys I'm gonna try and be around more.....I kinda miss you nuts
And Hagrid when you boost a 14 you do vent the crankcase breather to atmosphere

Change bolt to this style and grind off tab. Cheap Fix.

Thanks guys I'm gonna try and be around more.....I kinda miss you nuts

Good to see you back full time.