Got it. Looks like this was more an exercise using a cam sensor for 'who fired last?' I guess at one point they may have played an emissions kind of game. It might have been for sequential firing? Not a lot of cranking over until it starts. Starts right up instead. Do you need it? No. Will it code? Yes. Will it run? Yes. Stick the sensor in the harness and zip-tie it up on the harness and expose it to air. Or for an experiment, place a 400 ohm resistor in between the two wires at the cam sensor main harness side of the connector.
Start variables:
1. WOT the throttle with key on, no start. Then start the bike. Does it run? Yes. Leave resistor and sensor out of the loop.
2. Did the bike start? No. Connect the sensor and try starting it. Did it start? Yes. Keep the sensor connected. Turn the key off. Do not WOT the throttle. Did bike start? Yes. Leave sensor in place and tape it off.
3. With resistor in place did the bike start? Yes. Did the bike code?* Yes. Turn the bike off. Restart the engine. Did the bike start? Yes. Goop glue resistor in place.
* Code Concept:
The sensor sends analog (many) inputs. This means a coil winding and a pass at those windings creates a magnetic field. A slow pass is one electrical pulse. At high speed, there is a gradual incremental pulse entering as it changes the pulse as the speed increases = Many inputs. This shows no code when the sensor has the ability to send an analog signal up that wire to the ECU.
The second sort of input is when the sensor fails, is not plugged in, or the signal is out of range. So digital means one. Or the concept of this being a single input over and over and does not change that pulse to many different high and low rpm inputs like a sensor does. So when we cross the ohm resistor to make it act like a sensor, yes, this is reconnected, but the signal is going to constantly read 400 ohms over and over. When you grasp the two differences, you can play with the binary numbers.
For example, 1 is that single ohm number entering over and over and it codes. If no sensor or resistor was in the connector and was left open like it is, then there is no input at all and the ECU reads this as 0.
A. Code: Because there is nothing connected at the connector for the one wire up the ECU.
B. Code: Because the resistor and the cam sensor are there dangling but connected; still sends a digital input.
C. Code: Because one wire is out of the connector and does not make a complete loop.
Where A is going to crank until you find it's idio as to how to start it.
*Where B is the book saying, 'connect the cs wires thru an ohm meter and is the resistance 400 ohms?' This is where the book's abstract says something about recognizing the 'last good known value.' When you light that up for the first time, the ECU saved the last good known value when the key is turned off. So for sure you can start the bike with the sensor in place and there is the good known number. If it codes, maybe the body bolted to the head acts the ground.
Code wise, 'we take precautions and limp the HP.' That does not seem as something in the injection loop that might limp the mapping, but only a dyno knows for sure. A pc can override it. A flash can override it. Would the speed sensor hack into a limp map mode? Would the cam sensor, ABS? My guess would be full power mode. It's more for startup and emissions than it is for FI input like throttle, subs, vac, water type sensors that would more limp the power some.
If it were me, I'd say fuck it and plug in and zip the cs and call it a day. I'd have a good known wink-wink.
Make sense theory hackabilly wise?
* Last updated by: Hub on 1/7/2020 @ 7:44 PM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
