I had the same rattling noise from one of my Go Pros. It must have been the one Green gave me because that one had other problems and I quit using it. The GoPro I used last in 2015 didn't have this problem. I remember hearing that same rattle on deceleration just like you're getting. Try wrapping the camera in painters tape so it fits real tight in the box. ....or try putting a different door on the box. The door I was using had holes in the back to let sound in and that's all I ever used on the bikes. ...I'm just thinking if you're using an external mic, maybe the internal mic is picking up the vibration and recording it since that's all it can hear.

Plain and simple, do you use an external mic or do you have a camera holder with holes in the door to let sound in? You're doing one or the other because the sound is excellent except for that little rattle every now and then.

---

I would also ask GoPro about this because I'm pretty sure I've heard people complain about it before and I've experienced it myself. ...I just haven't used the GoPro in so long, I can't remember exactly what I did to stop it. I'm pretty sure it's the camera shaking in the box though. I think it might have to do with an external mic too. I never used an external mic. I believe I did use the waterproof door on the box though and that might just be the reason for the vibration getting recorded.

---

Rook, sounds like I need an external mike, the camera is mounted right on my fuel tank and might be picking up vibrations coming up from the engine through the frame. I'm running this little engine pretty hard, it's only got 88 rear wheel HP so I have to keep it spinning near redline to get anywhere fast.

---

Also Hub, the yellow shift light comes on and then the red light right afterwards, am I bumping the rev limiter here?

It looks like a few lights came on, then the full spectrum with a higher rpm range. So yeah you are bumping the lights to go on near the limits. Sort of watched the 2 lights come on during a few low revs. Then you're hitting the max limit when all of them come on. As long as you shift out of them I don't see a problem. Pretty conservative bumps actually. Then again, I don't know were redline is for that 600.

As far as the buzzing goes, I usually ignore it. You could try duct tape over the camera next time. See if that numbs the vibes. Another one is to maybe scotch tape one strip over a ball of cotton over the speaker holes, see if that numbs the pain.

Rook, maybe a refresh hit with photo car in it. Meaning, wipe the drive and let it install itself again. Having the card/micro disc installed will recognize the card. Just a guess on any kind of problem with the Pro. Doubt the packaging being vibrated would upset this rugged unit.

---

Doubt the packaging being vibrated would upset this rugged unit.

No, not the packaging, I was talking about the clear plastic box the camera fits in during filming. I think the camera vibrates in there and causes the chatter. Duct tape should work but painters tape is a lot easier to remove and leaves no sticky residue behind.

---

Rook, I meant the clear plastic water tight packaging/covering/cover. You could pack the inside with a cotton ball at the door/gate/housing, clip the cover closed. See if that stops the vibe.

Gorilla tape is thinner, more durable, less sticky debris left behind. That would be on the outside of the clear plastic housing to stabilize the unit. Cotton is just jam it(some) in there to numb the vibe.

Yeah, mind is not cooperating when I need to think of what they are called, etc. Don't get old.

---

Dang guys, I have the camera mounted directly on the fuel tank on one of the provided sticky mounts without the clear plastic box, I thought that was for underwater use only? Do you think the plastic box might quell the vibrations from getting through to the microphone?

---

Hub, the redline is only 11,500 on the RS660, if I do hit the rev limiter occasionally is that going to reduce the longevity of the motor in your opinion? I have hit it once and it was an abrupt fuel cut that had me slapping my nuts on the fuel tank. In the short 2 minute video I had a Ducati 1198 right on my ass and was running it hard to keep him behind me, the bike has only 88 RWHP so I have to work it really hard if I want to play with the big boys. I just don't want to blow it up, it was a very expensive machine for a 600 class motorcycle. I stay off the redline on my bigger bikes so this is new territory for me. You may have noticed the S1000RR was working between 6000 to 10,000 rpm in my earlier videos against a 15,000 rpm redline but it has midrange torque and excess power for road riding.

---

Rook, I meant the clear plastic water tight packaging/covering/cover. You could pack the inside with a cotton ball at the door/gate/housing, clip the cover closed. See if that stops the vib

You and me are talking about the same thing then. I think the buzz comes from chattering between the clear plastic case and the camera. Cotton seems like a good thing to try. If you still get the buzz, it's coming from something inside the camera and I don't see any remedy for that.

Yeah, mind is not cooperating when I need to think of what they are called, etc. Don't get old.

We're doing our damndest not to, Hub. The shit's gonna happen. I'm doing my best to enjoy the moment.

Dang guys, I have the camera mounted directly on the fuel tank on one of the provided sticky mounts without the clear plastic box, I thought that was for underwater use only? Do you think the plastic box might quell the vibrations from getting through to the microphone?

If you're not using the clear plastic box, the noise must be coming from inside the camera. You could try using the clear plastic box as long as you have the door with holes to let the sound in.

...I don't know how you mount the camera without the clear plastic box. Do the GoPros have a threaded hole to screw onto a mount now? The GoPros I had, you had to use the clear plastic box because that was the thing that attached to the mount. The camera itself was just a small plastic box. I suppose you could tape it to something to film but why do that when you have the clear plastic box to attach to a mount of some sort?

To answer your question Kruz, no I do not think using the plastic box will alleviate the vibration but you might as well try it.

GoPro Silver, GoPro Black....that's what we had the last time i looked at these back in 2015. IDK what they have now, GoPro infrared and GoPro ultraviolet? I'll probably get a Chinese knockoff for sixty bucks when I buy a new bike cam. The genuine GoPro is probably made in China too. They generally get used for nine or ten videos and then they get retired and nobody thinks about them until they're obsolete compared to the Latest GoPros the Chines are manufacturing and copying to sell at a much lower price.

---

Kruz, the only wear factor will be larger ring end gap wear, and big end crank inserts showing brass. You do not want to see brass, but more the aluminum dark wear factor. That's about the refresh round you'll go thru ringing its little neck out.

You'll have to stay on top of the compression numbers for that. More like a leak-down setup to read the bleed numbers. Something like:

1-2% = new/rebuilt
8-9% = race rebuild
10-15% = production rebuild
16%-and up = POOR performance

How to read the shop manual's abstract compression numbers will say (153 - 187 psi). Where 153 reads POOR and above 187 is to decarbon the pistons and head areas.

But say this would be full on race stress during a season of closed course running. Being out on the street and running up the lights might last longer. I mean, race stress is a lot different than street stress. I'd be short shifting for longevity. Not fun, but will be less time on the rack, more time on the (street) track.

Probably the nut slapping intervention is showing you you've delved into the danger zone if kept sustained. I'd more change the oil a lot to weed out the debris off the insert wear/clutch fiber wear. Something like a syn additive oil. Less wear, more polished finish.

---

Thanks Hub you are still "The Man".....

As a side note, Bren Tune is offering a remap of the RS660 that raises the rev limiter ceiling from 11,500 to 12,200 rpm.

In my opinion that is quite a big step, pop goes the weasel time or possibly Aprilia set the rev limit conservatively to 11,500 for longevity and the engine will take more revs safely?

The problem with the RS660 is that it has incredibly good handling that makes you want to flog the nutz off of it but it only has 88 RWHP in stock form, experienced riders will find it's power limit long before they reach it's handling limit. If this bike had, let's say 20 more HP, it would be a near perfect road bike with all of it's power fully exploitable.

The RS660 engine is already in a high state of tune for a parallel twin right out of the crate, so you are not going to get a whole lot more out of it without throwing a lot of money at it and then reliability issues surface.

---

Getting some lean angle on the Beemer Hub, about 55 degrees..

* Last updated by: Kruz on 2/11/2025 @ 10:43 PM *

---