Hey Dan, thanks for the warning.. I won’t be going directly to 15 PSI right after rebuild, it will be slow and methodical. I currently have a 8lbs spring, the turbo has been ported and has very little boost creep. Once broke in I’ll start with same ole tune which is something I have worked with via dynojet autotune for years.. I don’t want to go e85 cuz I’d rather stay with current injectors, I think 630’s. But keep in mind I use a RR fuel pressure regulator. When at 8lbs boost fuel PSI is around 100. I don’t remember the duty cycle of the signal to the injectors but it’s not close to DC and I’m running it pig rich when at full boost. 12.3 to 12.5, not horrible but rich. I have a manual boost controller that can be increased at 0.25PSI intervals. The boost increase will be slow and octane will increase with boost.
One issue I plan on looking at is exhaust back pressure. I’d like to see what the pressure is in the manifold (before the turbo) then again on the output of the turbo so a back pressure ratio can be calculated. Back pressure means heat, heat can lead to detonation.. I’m worried the back pressure will be greater than 2 to 1 cuz I’m running a yoshi exhaust.
Status: rings have been gapped and installed. Rods, pins and clips installed and balanced to within 1 gram. Piston assemblies have been installed in the bores.
Took forever to find a machine shop to ck out the crank which will been sent out tomorrow. Going thru the head now, cleaning caps and valves. Currently polishing the combustion chamber and exhaust ports, hopefully it will reduce some heat. Plan on lapping the valves and have new kibblewhite seals to install. All shims have been measured and will be reinstalled in the same location which will help when setting valve lash and calculating the shim values. Decided to go with .038 cometic head gasket cuz have already had .005 taken off the block and the head
Debating on reinstalling the high oil pressure regulator. I have the other oil pressure mods, gear and cover. I’m guessing the higher oil pressure took out the turbo oil scavenge pump. Huge, huge mess.. sorry so sloppy and long written using my phone.

I messed up the AFR’s in the prior post.. I meant 11.3 to 11.5 AFR

A little bit of FYI... I had a difficult time finding machine shops that could repair/inspect the crank and fix the crack in the head.

Both had long lead times... crank repair/inspect/micro polish = 5 weeks.

Cracked head repair, remove valve seats, weld crack, pressure test and replace valve seats on cylinder 2. = 3 months.

Marine Crankshaft Repair
2155 S Grand Ave
Santa Ana, CA 92705-5204

Alberts Porting & Machine
10269 W 800 S
Claypool, IN 46510-9552

Hopefully you'll never need their service but if you do this info might save you some time.

Just a quick question: how much oil pressure is too much? With the high pressure oil relief valve in place and using 15-40 (maybe 10-40) Rotella T6 at startup it would peg my oil pressure gauge at 100 psi. It would obviously reduce once warmed (can’t remember pressure once warmed).
From what I have read the higher oil pressure is beneficial for turbo applications but over 100 psi seems a bit extreme..
Thoughts?

I can't say much about this but I can say it depends on where your oil pressure sensor is located. The stock oil pressure warning light sensor gives a way low oil pressure reading. Maybe 60 to 90 psi max. I talked with a guy who had his sensor in some crankshaft test plug and it was much higher than mine reading off the stock oil pressure sensor. His was in the one-hundreds. Hope that helps. My memory is sketchy but I know my stock oil pressure sensor location gave me a pitifully low reading compared to his.

Hum, “crankshaft test plug” sounds interesting.. would be nice to know what the oil pressure is right at the crank bearings.. but then, what’s considered good and what’s not so good? I think we know what bad is.. would be interesting to see vertical VS X lean angle or different pressures at different RPMs..
The gauge I have just takes place of the OEM oil sender.. but I keep vacillating back and forth on reinstalling the high pressure valve or stay OEM. Hence the question, how much is too much?

Could use some help here..
After a complete bottom end change, crank refurbished, pistons, rods, bearings and everything has been measured to spec. Crank rotates smoothly so decided to mate the crank cases. Crank still rotates smoothly but when cking the trans it will not go into 2nd gear,1st and neutral are fine..

The crazy part is; I didn’t touch the trans. Only pulled out the shift shaft and the bearing\spring for decent on the shift drum. The shift forks are aligned correctly when mating the 2 cases and it shifted fine before teardown.

Need some help with this one.

Thanks,
Rick

If I remember correctly, the transmission has a neutral finder mechanism. 3 balls between ramped plates. With those still in place the bike had to be rolling to engage second gear. You should be able to simulate that by rolling the counter shaft sprocket forward while attempting the second gear shift.

You have to spin the transmission shaft (where front sprocket lives) fast to get it to click into 2nd.

Seems like the racing/riding community is split about the high pressure relief valve. Lots say it isn't needed. I think it is cheap insurance. Haven't ever heard of someone complaining about too much oil pressure on these bikes. There is certainly a limit on what's healthy, but you're still safe with the upgraded relief. I'll take cheap insurance over a gamble any day. Only downsides are that you might get some foaming or blow out an already compromised oil seal.

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the input on both 2nd gear issues and oil pressure..

I spun both the input shaft (clutch side) and output shaft (counter shaft sprocket side) while holding pressure on the gear shifter but it will not engage.

Looking at the open oil pan side while monitoring the shift drum it appears to be the left hand “groove” which moves the shift fork to engage 2nd gear. Could be wrong cause can’t confirm this via the service manual. The gear that the shift fork moves doesn’t seem to move right far enough to engage the dogs (cogs) of the next gear..

Dan, if you’d be willing to take a gander I cud run it down to you to get some input.

Thanks,
Rick
#469-933-7498

Sent you a text.

817 - 965 - 9691