LOL, Rook. He had it right. I used to race BOTT when it fist came out. Stands for 'battle of the twins.' A Triumph, and a HD. That was a 2yr stint so I use this name on a few twin sites.

The one twin site started a thread with the title (I'm paraphrasing here)... Bott, are you a bot? Used cntrhub on a chopper site and if you type that name, you'll find it with the hub speak and the comments are funny. Then Sven and that thread someone started. Just being myself is all. LOL

I remember the Hub Speak. I actually spent a number of hours figuring a some of those out and I was getting pretty good at translating!

Yeah, even today I can't believe I came up with that shit. Hard for me to figure out what I said LOL. I couldn't do it again. But to read the comments... Too funny... for me that is.

Go to chopcult.com hit forums, then in the search bar, just type in cntrhub. Start reading the comments down the list. That's 10 pages to click onto. If you have time to waste that is.

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/1/2025 @ 10:57 PM *

Nobody knew if you were faking it or if that's really how talk. Then you'd start talking pretty normal for a while and everyone wondered what was up!

I got my side cover with the mended tab on without a lot of trouble this afternoon. I noticed my battery compartment door is cracked! I pressed it tight against the frame and snugged the screw up. It cracked along the edge, not where the screw is. You can't see the crack with side fairing cover on but I'll have to replace that cover. I'm guessing about $60.

$38.47 plus tax and shipping. I guess I can handle that, I really was expecting sixty bucks.

$47.42 with tax and shipping. My first guess was pretty close.

I just want the lowers off to take pictures of the first oil change.

New question: is it possible to just remove the lower fairings on the Gen2 without removing any other fairings? The lowers on my Gen1 had that big quick rivet on the chin that needed to be removed, three small bolts that fastened each to the side fairings and two large bolts that fastened each to the frame. Remove the rivet and the bolts and the lower swung outward to free the tabs from the slots in the side fairing. From the service manual, it looks like the Gen2 has a metal bracket inside the fairings that joins the lowers to the sides. ...so you have to take the grills off, the ram air covers, the fuel tank cover and then the whole side if you want to separate the lower from the side?

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/1/2025 @ 9:03 AM *

I bought something at Ace called Devcon Plastic Welder. It's comes in a two part syringe. Unfortunately, it's cream colored but the tab I'm gluing isn't visible anyway. I'll update the thread when I know how it worked. Normal epoxy won't last one season so I'll know if Devcon is better in a few months.

Welllll, ringa dang ding! The glued tab has held just fine, even with no backing piece. There weren't many miles put on the bike but I still expected that tab would have separated from the fairing right along the crack where I glued it. I have the new replacement fairing but might as well keep using the one I repaired. We'll see how it holds up for one more year.

Did it again. Busted a projection off the LH fairing cover now. Damn, this fairing learnin is expensive! That skinny little RH tab held, I guess I'll try the same thing with the LH. Will put a new new RH on order ASAP. I was going to try some things with painting the grills anyway but I sure would have preferred to not spend all this money for the test pieces.

I sure thought the projection was out of the grommet. Well, I'd say better to pull that grill out and get your hand behind there somehow to make sure the projections are free. I didn't even pull that hard. It's not just me being a bonehead, these Gen2 plastics are more brittle than the Gen1 or the Gen2 Hayabusa. I'm sick of breaking fairings. That's two fairing covers and a battery compartment door now. Live and learn.

I'm having a problem with the side/lower fairing. The grills are off, the ram air covers, the fuel tank cover and the uppper inner cover (the ceiling of the front wheel enclosure). For the side and lower fairings that come of as one piece, I have removed the quick rivets, the 4 big screws and the one small under the ram air cover. I have separated the tab the small screw goes through from the upper cowl and I pulled off the tab that fits over the side faring hanger bracket. I have wiggled and pulled the side fairing back enough that the two small hooks are off of the tabs inside the upper cowl. Something is still sticking way up at the front of the upper cowl. This is the first time the fairings have been removed. Any idea what's wrong?

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/18/2026 @ 6:22 PM *

I gave up last night. I pushed it forward and the hooks snapped right back on the tabs inside the upper fairing, everything went back perfectly.

I tried again this afternoon and had no more progress. The hooks are OFF the tabs ...just by a hair but the hooks and tabs are not touching. Something feels stuck up by the peak at the front. It's not the inner fairing contacting the radiator. There is a plastic sheild that protects the top of the engine and there is a tab on the inner fairing that sits on top of it. I've tried with the inner fairing tab on top as it should be and I've tried pulling the side fairing outward and sliding the tab under. That position seems to allow the side fairing to slide back a bit more. There is also a foam insulator pad on the fairing bracket. The side fairing is resting on top of that. Do I bend that foam piece out of the way so the back of the side fairing can be rotated downward to pull the front point out of the upper fairing? Everything I've read and watched simply says to pull back and it should come out easily with all the fasteners removed.

Got it. Yes, position inner fairing tab below engine barrier wall tab. Wiggle and pull back middle fairing until its hooks are disengaged from the hooks in the upper fairing. Lower the back of the middle fairing so hooks cannot reengage and push middle fairing forward again. The peak will slip right out of the nose of the top fairing.

I took the RH middle fairing off this afternoon and discovered the evaporative emissions canister with hoses bolted to the RH inner fairing. Obviously, the canister has to be detached to remove the fairing. The spring clips will be simple enough to remove. I plan to have the fairings off a while. Will gasoline vapor come out of these hoses if they're left open? ...and how about the canister, will it have gasoline in it?

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/23/2026 @ 3:47 PM *

Yes, vapor will ooze out. Canister will/might have vapor turned to liquid, but the hose in and hose out will suck the vapor dry. Just an emissions recovery idea is all. A closed loop system you might say.

Thanks Hub. I see the canister comes out of the fairing with two bolts. It should be safe to pull the hoses, remove the canister from the fairing and then hook the hoses back up to the canister while I'm installing the new exhaust.

I see an Evaporative emissions delete kit. for the ZX-14R. I'll probably get that. Maybe rout a hose out down near the side stand like the Gen1. ...or maybe just cap it off.

https://p3tuning-performanceparts.com/products/copy-of-kawasaki-z900-z900rs-2017-2023-evap-canister-removal-kit?variant=42359714021558