Sorry I missed the part about no power. As short a time as Brock runs his wrench in the video, I think you'd be OK if you hit it quick like he did. But usually the fittings leak a little. Also, the most air tanks don't have the right fitting on the hose to hokk up a tool.

I think you'd be ok to air it up to 125 psi, most tools spec a regulated max pressure for about 90 psi. I doubt a short burst at 125 would hurt anything but could possibly damage the tool and it would bleed of quick anyway. My guess is by the time doing what brock did you'd be down probably 90 psi in a 5 gallon tank.

My guess is by the time doing what brock did you'd be down probably 90 psi in a 5 gallon tank.

WOW! All I have is 2 one gallons and a two gallon. Wish me luck. Doubt I'll run it over 90 psi. Dad would be pissed if I wrecked his impact. Could get a nice cordless but that be close to $400 with batterie and charger.

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http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-189-8221-heavy-duty-impact-wrench-kit/p-00945195000P

300 ft lbs

I've had one for several years. With a fresh battery i can bust the lugs loose on 20 lug nuts.

2nd on the 8 gallon compressor, I've had mine for 9 or 10 years now and still works like a champ. It was something like $200 CDN and came with a decent variety of air tools. I've ended up using it a lot more than I ever thought I would so when you've got a few bucks burning a hole in your pocket would definitely recommend it.

As Vic said, its more than enough for filling tires, cleaning the chain and the such. My compressor runs nail/staple guns, impact guns, ratchets and chisels just fine; although I wouldn't want to use this compressor if I was using those tools all day long and would opt for a larger compressor.

I noticed Brock didn't torque... well anything, in his video, not sure if that was simply to make the video shorter or if its "not necessary". I assume its a REALLY good idea to torque all bolts/nuts, especially on spinning components like the clutch, which brings me to my question about the concern and purpose of the tool to hold the clutch basket.

Rook, I'm assuming your concern about the tool is damaging the basket while removing the nut, which using an impact gun would definitely help (however, I would caution against holding onto something that could start spinning if the nut doesn't break loose like he did in the video, that hurts a whole helluva lot).

I thought that the main point of the holing tool was to help with properly torquing the nuts/bolts during installation. I personally would NEVER rely on the torque setting of a drill or impact gun (even torque rods).

Thanks to everyone for all the valuable feedback.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-189-8221-heavy-duty-impact-wrench-kit/p-00945195000P

If Dad's doesn't get it done, that's my baby. 150$, I can do and I'm sure I'll use it for the rest of my years. Had a small Craftsman cordless drill and it was just fine for all but the toughest drilling jobs. Left that to the wife in the divorce.

2nd on the 8 gallon compressor, I've had mine for 9 or 10 years now and still works like a champ. It was something like $200 CDN and came with a decent variety of air tools.

Might have to wait on that. Lots of options there such as get just a large tank and fill off of any compressor. Even 100 psi would last a long time and get most stuff done.

I noticed Brock didn't torque... well anything, in his video, not sure if that was simply to make the video shorter or if its "not necessary". I assume its a REALLY good idea to torque all bolts/nuts, especially on spinning components like the clutch, which brings me to my question about the concern and purpose of the tool to hold the clutch basket.

He does mention the OEM torque spec for the spring bolts....on the one hand, seems like they should be torqued higher than spec. if there is an aftermarket spacer in there, that will take up some of the torque. on the other hand, I don't want to strip the threads. I guess 90 in lbs is 90 in lbs..../ have to cross that bridge when I come to it.

Rook, I'm assuming your concern about the tool is damaging the basket while removing the nut, which using an impact gun would definitely help (however, I would caution against holding onto something that could start spinning if the nut doesn't break loose like he did in the video, that hurts a whole helluva lot).

Yeah, I plan to cover my fingers with something and just give it a few taps first to see how hard it's turning the clutch.

I thought that the main point of the holing tool was to help with properly torquing the nuts/bolts during installation. I personally would NEVER rely on the torque setting of a drill or impact gun (even torque rods).

I guess you are right, Nightmare. I wasn't thinking that far ahead. I will probably get the holder tool to torque but to break it free, that may take more than the 90 ft lbs specced torque. For all I know, the hub may be worn from the steels after 49,000 miles. If so, I won't worry about it so much.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/14/2016 @ 5:47 PM *

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Clutch cover is off. Next step, remove clutch spring bolts. I'd like to get an idea of what I'm doing here.

On the RH side of the motor, I will be turning the clutch spring bolts counterclockwise to remove. If the clutch turns counterclockwise while I am pulling the wrench, the motor will turn backwards which is bad.

The bike is in Neutral so seems to me the engine can't turn at all even if the clutch does spin. Yes/No?

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The bike is in Neutral so seems to me the engine can't turn at all even if the clutch does spin. Yes/No?

Bike in Neutral, driveline is disengaged from motor---crankcase is not IN any gear.

Clutch doesn't really care what crankcase is doing. Clutch is always engaged to motor unless clutch lever is pulled. Yes/No? ....so better make sure I don't turn engine backwards when wrenching the spring bolts?

Could pull the clutch lever but then the clutch will definitely spin.

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J-korn, if you're reading, I think the clutch has to turn the same direction as the motor. If the primary gear is meshed to a gear on the clockwise turning crankshaft, the rotation of the clutch would be reverse, counterclockwise. The output shaft, sprockets and rear wheel must turn the same direction as the clutch so the bike would run backwards. There must be an intermediary gear between the crankshaft gear and the primary gear so the rotation is transferred to the primary gear in clockwise direction viewed from RH side of bike. IN short, if you turn the clutch counterclockwise, you are turning the engine counterclockwise. << first part right, italics is wrong--Rook edit

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/20/2016 @ 4:25 PM *

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these threads to myself........

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be darned Kruz, you were right! The clutch turns opposite direction of the engine. There must be a secondary gear that meshes with the primary to reverse the rotation for the output shaft.

sorry for taking this thread a little off path mav. It's bound to take some more twists and turns. I haven't even got the clutch out yet and this thread's supposed to be about oil pump covers.

so this shows, you break the clutch spring bolts, you are turning against the engine compression BUT you are turning against it in the proper direction. Torquing is where we run into the possibility of running backwards.

IDK what harm slowly turning the engine backward could do but it just doesn't seem like a good idea. far as roll starting backwards, impossible. The engine strokes would be all in reverse. you'd have compression during intake and vaccum during compression, compression during power, vacuum during exhaust...... wouldn't even think of trying it on any bike unless it had reverse gear, maybe.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/19/2016 @ 7:53 PM *

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EPIPHANY
a (1) : a usually sudden manifestation or perception of the essential nature or meaning of something (2) : an intuitive grasp of reality through something (as an event) usually simple and striking (3) : an illuminating discovery, realization, or disclosure b : a revealing scene or moment.

I got it.

Viewed from RH side of bike:

Crankshaft turns clockwise.

Clutch turns counterclockwise.

Gear on output shaft (call it Secondary) meshes with Primary gear which reverses the rotation of Secondary to clockwise rotation of the countershaft.

Rear wheel as viewed from RH side of bike turns clockwise, same as Secondary. This is the proper direction to move the bike forward.

Go to LH side of bike:

Countershaft sprocket mirror image--countershaft is turning counterclockwise as viewed from LH side of bike which of course is still the proper direction to move the bike forward.

My work is done for today.

Why couldn't Hub or somebody come and explain this? There went my whole friggin Saturday.

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So, breaking the bolts, nuts whatever on the clutch IS turning the engine in the proper direction---if it even turns at all.

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Sorry I can't help you Rook. I've never went further than the clutch springs.

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'sOKay, Nasty. Thanks for replies. Got yer FB response, too. I have it all figured out now.

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Looks like engine compression alone is nowhere near enough resistance to break the clutch spring bolts free. About 2 ft lbs is enough to turn the engine. Maybe an impact would work but that seems awfully drastic for such small bolts. Someone suggested putting the bike on the side stand in 6th gear and placing a 2x4 in front of the rear wheel. That would do it for the clutch spring bolts but it might just roll the bike over when it came time to do the hub nut. I guess i will try the old bar through the wheel and swing arm trick. Worked for the countershaft sprocket nut. Another trick mentioned was to stuff a rag between the crankshaft gear and the primary gear but i don't want any pieces of cloth or fibers in my engine.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/22/2016 @ 7:15 PM *

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There is no way those bolts should be that tight. All of mine come loose with minimal effort. Wasn't even close to rolling the engine over.

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I'll have to try again. Maybe my engine was not at the compression stroke. It was only 2 ft lbs of torque or less before the clutch moved. I'd think the bolts would be torqued tighter than that.

One weird thing--far as I have noticed there was NO clutch cover gasket put on my bike.

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In my opinion a GOOD 1/2 " impact gun is the ONLY way to take that nut off. A good gun with the necessary pressure will usually knock it loose in seconds. Without putting a lot of strain on the clutch basket regardless of what holding tool you use. Useful for the countershaft nut too.

Mad

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You can use a small paddle type 3/8" impact gun to knock the spring nuts loose, but you want to definitely torque them when putting it back together.

Mad

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thanks, Mad. The impact is the last resort. I'm sure I can get the clutch springs out without using an air tool. 10ft lbs is all they are supposed to be torqued to so I figure a max of 20 to bust them loose.

The hub nut will be the real test of hand tool v machine. For the tutorial, I hope it's possible to do safely with a breaker bar because that's what the average guy can get his hands on without spending too much coin. We'll see. Temps are climbing back into the 40s by the beginning of the week. Pretty nice for winter wrenching. Next couple days I have my daughters with me so probably I'll be spending all my time with them. Maybe we'll go visit the clutch.

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Put the bike in 1st gear. 6th would have been preferable to reduce mechanical advantage of the transmission end but bike will not go into 6th when shut off. I lifted the bike on a rear stand then put a book under the rear tire and lifted the front on a front stand. Rear tire contacted book compressing the rear suspension about 1.5" which is probably about as much as does the weight of the bike when standing with tires on the ground. This held the wheel, transmission and engine from turning. The clutch spring bolts broke free without a lot of force. No need to bar the rear wheel. Clutch springs, plates and spring plate removed. Will inspect plates and springs.

BTW, test verified counterclockwise rotation of the clutch does indeed make the rear wheel turn forward--wheel and engine turn same, clutch turns opposite of wheel and engine.

Nothing unexpected except when I went to pull the thrust bearing, it pulled the push rod with it. Is the thrust bearing connected to the push rod or is this just oil and suction holding the two together?

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/27/2016 @ 8:49 PM *

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nevermind, I'm a dope. I see the thrust bearing is like a mushroom with a stem sticking in that hole. LOL I thought it was just the cap of the mushroom. That was not the push rod coming out, it was the stem on the bearing. duh.

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I got my EBC clutch Hub tool and it's good! By from Parts Giant. Comes to $18 with tax free shipping. Looks like it will fit perfectly according to the match up I did with a steel and fiber. Same pattern. It is an eith inch thick which I imagine should prevent damage to the clutch fingers and teeth. I will be ordering 1 or 2 more just in case. Spreading the load over 3/8" is better than 1. I take no chances. I'll post pics tomorrow along with the part # of this tool. With so many bikes out there I was a bit worried I'd get one for aZX-10 or something like that and that's why I did not order 2 right off the bat. looks like this one is on the money.

No rough edges or burs, some kind of special gold coating on the edges where it was cut. Nice tool but they coulda cut the EBC emblem smaller to make the handle stronger....doubt it matters since tey have that double fork handle to fit in the fingers and that makes the handle weaker anyway. No way around that..they had to get it to fit the fingers somehow. You'll see when I post pics.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/5/2016 @ 10:06 PM *

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I wonder if anyone has tried replacing all of those bolts and nuts with titanium?

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Haha could be done but that would be nothing compared to the weight of the clutch pack. Just 5 bolts and 5 washers + the hub nut. LOL my spacers for the HD clutch springs are aluminum!

Would be nice if there was such thing as solid CF clutch plates. that would reduce some major rotating mass.

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