Doznkoz - Cool green ???????? Also wanted to say, on my new Ducati Diavel V4 I got a nail in the rear tire when it had only a few hundred miles. It's a big ol' expensive 240 width tire and I just couldn't stand to just throw it out so for my first time ever I plugged it. Surprised how easy it was. Plugged, reinflated and it's been good to go for >2,000 miles now. The key is to drill out the hole with a 1/4" drill bit so there's room for the plug, otherwise I dunno how anyone would ever get it in. Now that I've done it once I bet I could do it again in my garage in 5 minutes. Fortunately the nail in mine held air fully until I made it home, so I was able to take my time and figured worst case if it doesn't work I'll take it to a shop. But it did work and now I'll always plug whenever possible ????

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Extrapolator - I thought about doing that myself but opted not to. I had another Metzler put on it this morning and just finished up mounting it back on. I just don't want to be 100 miles or so from the house (somewhere in the rural country) and find out that it came out. Pain in the butt that would be. I usually get on it pretty good on those long straightaways. Your craftmanship on your repair is evident. Good job! I like the White paint on yours. It's a damn good-looking bike! I just turned 64 and busy as ever with work. We have several jobs out of town and commuting 7-800 miles a week is the norm anymore. I plan on going for a few more years and then will hit the highways and experience some new terrain.

* Last updated by: doznkoz on 4/26/2025 @ 10:27 AM *

Nice white ZX. doznkoz I like the Golden Blazed Green and Black one also that's kinda what this thread started out as before Rook "jacked" it LMAO.

I found a 2020 like yours, Golden Blazed Green (GBG) and Black with about 3700 miles, for $11,999 in Rancho Cordova. Looks very clean.

I'm not giving up on a first year 14r in GBG with the flames. They were the one I originally wanted since 2012. I might look at a 30th Anniversary model in Firecracker Red because that's what my old GPz was originally.

So many bikes, limited garage space.

* Last updated by: D1GP on 4/27/2025 @ 12:01 AM *

After I posted that picture I went back and looked at yours. Yours is almost the opposite color combination, less black more green. I like it much better than the 2020 version.

Kawasaki is famous for messing around with colors and combinations year to year. This is the original 2012 GBG.

Rook, I read on of your posts from earlier that stated 93lbs. is the correct torque for the rear axle. Mine is a 2015. Is this correct?

That is the service manual specced torque for the rear axle. It's crazy, isn't it? I've used a Carrozzeria wheel for years ans the torque spe was much lower. I ran that whel for years with axle torqued as /Carrozzeria spec with no problems.....never even used the cotter pin and no trouble. I guess I'd torque as specced for OEM. I remeber that mofo was real hard to break loose when I first tried...almost tipped the bike over. Step 42 here, yep 93 is what he SM suggests. That's for the Gen1. https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=64143E82-D56B-84E2-1F7B0DC01C4EB782[/quote]

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/27/2025 @ 1:19 AM *

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....and doznkoz, I checked the Gen2 SM and the rear axle nut spec is the same, 93 friggin ft lb. I don't think it makes sense to go quite that tight. You pinch the swingarm tight against the spacers and then a bit more, that should do it. From what I can ascertain, long as you squeeze the parts together as much as they will go, there's no need to tighten beyond that. I guess while I had the stock wheel, I torqued to 90 but after going Carrazeria, I found a lot less was perfectly fine. I don't recall what the Carrazzeria spec was but it was fine. I could look it up for you if you want. Never had the axle nut come loose. The chain adjusters keep the rear wheel stable too.

How awesome it is to hear from you doznkoz. I'm glad you still have that 14R. I hope you keep it all your life like I intend to do.

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Also wanted to say, on my new Ducati Diavel V4 I got a nail in the rear tire when it had only a few hundred miles. It's a big ol' expensive 240 width tire and I just couldn't stand to just throw it out so for my first time ever I plugged it. Surprised how easy it was. Plugged, reinflated and it's been good to go for >2,000 miles now.

I had a nail in my almost new Gen1 tire and I got it replaced. last year I got a nail in the rear of my truck. i bought a Slime tire puncture kit at O'Reilly's and I'm still driving on it. The tires are about toast now but that rope plug held up just fine. Yes, you will probably need to ream that hole a good deal to fit the needle on the tool with plug in there. It will hold. Personally, I wouldn't feel 100% confident with this repair on a front tire but I'm ok with doing a rear. Would not do a front on a bike, get a new tire just to be safe.

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that's kinda what this thread started out as before Rook "jacked" it LMAO

I guess I do that. ....let my mouth run. ...at least you know what I think.

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I'm not giving up on a first year 14r in GBG with the flames. They were the one I originally wanted since 2012.

That's what our old buddy Grn had. I just know Grn will show up again someday. D1GP, i would just get any Gen2 in any color. You can paint it how you want for a couple thou. I would paint it for you along with flames. The OEM flames were stickers. I'd make it all paint. I expect you'll be keeping it a lifetime. I would.

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D1GP - $11,999 for that 2020 to me seems like a really good deal, especially with such low miles on it. I myself am not crazy about that color combination but as Rook says, it can be painted and he will do it for you! Good Luck!

Hello Rook. Just so you know, the service tech at K&N agrees with you on the torque spec. He has been working at K&N for the last 10 years that I know of and he says that he just gives the nut a good hard tightening. 93lbs. seems to him to be a bit excessive. I did however take it to 90lbs and installed the cotter pin. I lost count but my guess is that this is my 10th or 11th rear tire since I bought it in 2015.
Also did a oil/filter change. It took about 30 minutes to finally loosen up the filter enough to remove. I was starting to get a bit worried. The filter wrench kept slipping and it wasn't until it actually caved it in a bit that it gripped enough to turn. I know I did not tighten it up that much the last time I did it. The new filter has a nut molded onto the end of it (same size as the oil drain plug) so next time should be easier, I hope.
I checked the milage yesterday and it is at 43,500. I will probably keep the bike Rook. It is a blast to ride, no doubt about that.

"I remeber that mofo was real hard to break loose when I first tried...almost tipped the bike over." Now that is tight!!!

Grn has not been around? I hope he is doing well. I really enjoyed his posts and input in these threads. I hope he returns.

Photo is this past December's ABATE Toy Run. I met up with 10 other guys I work with at our main office in Tulsa. We then rode the few miles to the Fairgrounds and met up with about 5-6000 other bikers. I have done this run a few other times in the past few years. I may have seen 2-3 other 14's but several other models of sport bikes. It is a enjoyable ride for a great cause.

Doznkoz - Cool green ????????

... Oh good grief, tiose were supposed to be !!!!!!! exclamation points!! I never post with my phone, until THAT one, and my readers broke! So I was flying by the blurry seat of my pants! Hope you didn't take that the wrong way ... I KNOW that's a good looking green ... I'm definitely not questioning it!

* Last updated by: extrapolator on 4/27/2025 @ 10:57 AM *

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extrapolator- I never thought twice about that. I know all about the "blurry" thing you are experiencing. Especially in the evenings! Took the 14 out for a small ride today. About an 80-mile run. All is good!

but as Rook says, it can be painted and he will do it for you! Good Luck!

I've only painted smaller parts like sprockets and engine covers and I just used a rattle can. It turned out very nice though. High gloss finishes show all the flaws of a rattle can but with a little TLC and extremely delicate polishing, you can get them as perfect as an industrial finish. ...actually, even smoother.

The filter wrench kept slipping and it wasn't until it actually caved it in a bit that it gripped enough to turn. I know I did not tighten it up that much the last time I did it. The new filter has a nut molded onto the end of it (same size as the oil drain plug) so next time should be easier, I hope.

I imagine that nut will take care of the problem and if it doesn't, you could use it along with a strap wrench and I'm sure it will break loose without much problem. I have used two filter wrenches at once in the past because I've also had the filter crush like you did. I've noticed the filter always requires a lot more force to remove than was applied to torque it. The filter must stick to the mounting surface after its been through a few heat cycles.

I thread the filter on until it just touches the mounting surface. ...not tight at all, just until I feel it touch. Then 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. That 1/2 to 3/4 turn is about as much as the average guy can tighten it by hand....you don't even really need a tool to torque the filter. Our buddy Kruz is very strong and he's agreed with me on this. thread it until it just touches, put a piece of tape on the end for reference, turn another 1/2 turn, no more than 3/4. Never had one leak or come loose. They come off without crushing (maybe just a little denting). You can get a cheap oil filter socket from an auto parts store. I'm almost 100% sure it's the same size socket as used for a Toyota Carolla. I use this filter wrench to install and remove oil filters now. A new one fits tight and square. You might need to tap the edge of the socket to get it off the filter after it's removed. The socket will stretch/wear after many uses and might slip. They're just made from a sheet of steel pressed with a die. You can pick up a new one for $10. Maybe you could find a high quality socket that would last forever. I just use the pressed ones. I'm on the second one now. It's the Toyota Carolla oil filter socket. ....come to think of it, I used the first one I had for my Carollas I owned from 1990 through 2017.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/27/2025 @ 9:43 PM *

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Doznkoz - Cool green ????????
... Oh good grief, tiose were supposed to be !!!!!!! exclamation points!!

It's ok to be a smartass every now and then even if you do it by accident.

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Rook - I only like to be a smartass on purpose!!

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When I was an auto parts store manager in the early 80's through the mid 90's various companies would actually come and teach us about how to use their products. Things like what oil viscosities meant, how to properly gap spark plugs, how to gap and install piston rings, how automotive and HD brake systems worked all kinds of cool stuff.

As was previously stated, unless specifically instructed, oil filters should only be turned 1/2 to 3/4 turn and you should coat the mounting gasket with fresh oil, (they used to say to use your finger, but not so much anymore) and to wipe the mounting surface clean with a towel.

One of the guys who worked on heavy equipment told me to keep an oil filter from coming off without having to over tork it was to coat the mounting gasket with lithium grease. He said it locked it on tight, but being greased made it easy to remove. He knew I was going to try it.

I tried it for the hell of it the next time I changed my oil and it did just that. FFS I had to cut the filter off and use a chisel to remove the base. I told him that I tried it and almost couldn't get the filter off. He just laughed his ass off. Apparently it allows the filter to be overtightened without making it seem too tight, having a higher film strength than motor oil, which compressed the gasket more locking the damn thing on.

That son a a bitch is probably still laughing at me now, if somebody else hasn't killed him.

Also, you have to watch the filters with the nut welded on. They are notorious for not working well. Actually had a friend with a K&N filter pop the nut off and it made a little hole in the filter housing. Best advice is to use a cup style filter wrench that fits the filter you're changing TO REMOVE the filter, never to install it.

* Last updated by: D1GP on 4/28/2025 @ 7:56 PM *