it looks like the OEM 16097-0008 is from China, and 16097-0004 is from Japan. Not sure what years they fit.

Whats the price difference between the puralator and the oem filter? Think I paid $13 for the oem "made in Japan" filter

it looks like the OEM 16097-0008 is from China, and 16097-0004 is from Japan. Not sure what years they fit.

All years of the zx14.......

$5-$7 for the purolator.

Just to eliminate some confusion. PL14610 is the long, PL14612 is the stock length/ shorty. The classic is a whole different filter.

Purolator PureONE Oil Filters are 99.9% Efficient*
What does 99.9% efficiency mean? It means that 99.9% of all contaminants that pass through a PureONE oil filter are captured in the media. Even microscopic particles get trapped in PureONE's exclusive Micronic media, saving your engine from damage.

What types of contaminants are being filtered out?
Common contaminants can kick up from the road and damage your engine - like dirt, metal shavings, bugs, and more – up to 13 grams worth! That equates to 8 nails … or 20 nuts … or 31 paper clips worth of damaging particles that could get into your engine if it weren’t protected by a PureONE oil filter.

100% Covered in Textured Grip Control
All PureONE oil filters feature specially textured paint that helps keep the filter from slipping when you’re installing or removing the filter. And, that paint covers the ENTIRE filter, so no matter where you grab, you have a little textured grip assistance. Even if you're installing your filter at an awkward angle or your hands are slippery from oil, the textured grip control on a PureONE oil filter helps maximize your grip for better control. So put away your filter wrenches and pick up the ONE filter on the shelf that’s completely covered in grip texture – Purolator PureONE oil filter.

In addition, PureONE oil filters offer:
Exclusive Micronic media which traps microscopic contaminants
PTFE treated sealing gasket for easy installation and removal
Silicone anti-drainback valve** protects against engine dry start

Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer.

Purolator Classic Oil Filters are 97.5% Efficient*
With an efficiency rating of 97.5%, just slightly lower than a Purolator PureONE oil filter, you can be assured that a Purolator Classic oil filter provides premium protection for every day driving.

* Last updated by: fatsix on 4/25/2014 @ 2:11 PM *

Purolator PureONE for me , 3 ZX14s and never a problem .. It's not like I drive them easy .. :)

Well I was gonna try the pure one, but all they had was the classic. I have to admit, I love it. Top quality, here's why: the filter has a slightly longer body and when you examine it, all edges and seams are perfect or close. Look at a competitor. Not so. If ur eye detects something, that's bad, if your eye has trouble finding a seam fault or and edge imperfection, that's good. Really impressed so far after a dyno day and some really really hard riding. Thank you Fat and Smokin and everyone else that chimed in about these. I am never too closed minded to try something new as long as there is logic involved, y'all taught me something here! Made in the USA and great quality.

If it works on Pricilla I will be switching on the next change, sounds like the part number on my wifes Maxima, works very well on her car!

UPDATE !!!! this guy used the "new" K&N that they sent him, HAPPENED AGAIN ! ...

Here is his post :

So guess what guys..... Went riding friday night with a girl and what do you know smoke starts coming out my bike. Get it home pull it apart the next morning and it's leaking oil from the new k&n filter...... I put a wrench and tighten the fuck out of it, I run it for a few and rev it up nothing the oil stopped dripping. Go to work 30 mins away and on the way back oil starts coming out again and burning off the exhaust pipe...... WTF K&N!!!! I can't believe this is the 2nd oil filter and it's leaking..... This makes me feel stupid like I'm installing it wrong but it's damn near impossible to fuck this up.... I think I'm done with K&N filters on motorcycles, they work great on cars but for me on the bikes it just can't take it..... I'm curious to see what K&N says this time around.
- See more at: http://www.socalsportbikes.org/forums/showthread.php?t=279650&page=3#sthash.0TKvvkfU.dpuf

* Last updated by: carabuser on 7/21/2014 @ 10:42 AM *

I'm somewhat convinced there's a lot of oil filter hype, brand-a over brand-b because c. Getting my new bike, I did quite a bit of researching oil filters before the initial service change. I know test Q showed brand-x collected more of the .18 micron particles than brand-u. And dantheoilman cut 634,972 different brands filters apart measuring total sqr. inches of filter media, and brand-i had 944 square inches compared to brand-p which had 892, so brand-i is better. Brand-t has cardboard end caps, and brand-r has titanium end caps made with titanium mined from moon rock, so brand-r is better. Brand-w uses silicon ADB valves, and brand-4 uses nitrile, so brand-w is better.

Here's the thing. Most people don't pay too much attention to their oil filters. I recently knew someone had their oil changed at Walmart and their truck had over 300,000 miles before rust took it's toll and he finally gave up and sold it (and yes I know Walmart actually uses decent filters, but they aren't the best for sure). My small truck is nearly 10 years old and has 100k miles on it. For about the first 90k I used $3.00 orange fram oil filters (extra gaurd?). Yes, the cheap, cardboard, nitrile rubber, plastic bypass, with cheap stamped spring. I started using synthetic oil around 30k miles, and change my oil twice a year (spring/fall) for the last 40k miles. The thing runs like brand new. In the 6 month period (somewhere in 4k-8k mile range), generally I don't even have to add oil. There is no detectable white smoke in my exhaust. Fuel mileage has remained consistent, as well as (the original) power & acceleration.

Like all products, I've read terrythedriver having problems with dantheoilman's favorite brand, and vice versa. Not any particular brand of filter that has never had a failure. Some people swear by brand-x, they've used them all their life and never had problems. Some people swear by other brands. For everyone of those brands, I've read that someone lost an engine due to a faulty oil filter, or the the gasket blew out on the very-highest-top-rated-brand-of-oil-filter-of-all-time-that-ever-has-been-was-or-will-be. Or the filter was inspected afterwards and it looked like an explosion had occurred internally.

Oil filters are an area where it's easy to consider one over-engineered. Metallic grit and other small particles are hazardous to an engines health. There is no doubt about that. But that doesn't change the fact that even the most basic oil filters are likely up to the tasks when it comes to providing protection against particles capable of causing catastrophic failure. Am I saying go out and use Fram cheap-o Extra Guards? Am I saying Amsoil are a waste of money? No, I'm saying that just as one of us might buy a ZX-14R and never have a problem for 50k miles while another guy gets 12k miles and the engine blows up, oil filters are really no different with some possible exceptions.

VicThing, what you say is true, in almost 40 years of riding and driving, I have never had an oil
filter fail, and I use to use fram on my cars, but for about $6, you can get a pure one, probably
one of the better filters at any price, so I don't use fram anymore ...

The problem is, that K&N USE to use a very good oil filter manufacture, (Champion Labs I think ?)who makes some of the OEM filters for bikes, and Mobile one oil filters, BUT,they recently changed to a new
vendor, and this guy has had TWO problems with the filters in a row ....

Just something to think about ...

Carabuser, these days I tend to appreciate engineering, problem-solving, and decision making skills over gut feelings that many people use to make judgements. I don't want to believe - I want to know. One of the problems with people that evaluate things like the "cardboard endcaps" inside Fram cheap-o filters is that they only assume it's bad quality because it's cardboard. They don't really know this. It's really just a guess, that cardboard is inherently bad for use in oil filters. Myself, I believe Fram filters are engineered in a manner which produces a product that is safe and reliable to use for the intended purpose.

With that said, my gut-guess is most of the features people are hot on (99.9% filter efficiency type stuff) are marketing tactics because if you don't have 99.9% filter efficiency your engine will explode. As it turns out, engineers designed brand-o to do everything the engine really needs regarding an oil filter. But brand-l will sell you their 99.9% filter that cost 10 cents more to make for $8 instead of $4 for brand-o. The numbers say the 80% efficiency of brand-o is good enough, and 99.9% serves little to no purpose other than to get you to believe you need 99.9% efficiency.

Anyone interested, enroll in a marketing class at a local college sometime. It might change your outlook on things quite a bit.

Just an interesting and timely event. A guy started recently here at work. We were parked next to each other and happened to leave at the same time last night. We both have Ford Rangers, his an 03 mine an 05. He asked me how many miles I had, I told him 100k (when I told him his eyes kind of bugged out a little not sure if he was surprised how little, or how much?). So I asked him. He said 340k! We talked a couple more minutes and left.

Then I thought about this topic. I decided to ask him about his oil situation this morning. Regarding filters, he said "whatever they put on it." He doesn't do any work on his cars. Then I thought to ask him about his oil, certainly he must at least be using synthetic (I really thought this). He answered no, but he said he had used synthetic in a car before. He then went on to tell me that his SUV has 400k miles on it, and his car has 200k miles.

Granted, these are cars and we're here about motorcycles. He said that he thought high performance engines might be different, and that maybe high performance racing filters should be used in them and then went on to say something along the lines of "they probably change those about once a month, don't they?"

I received a k&n oil filter that I ordered and now I read this, I'm doing a oil change on my bike this weekend, should I not use the k&n filter. It says manufactured in Korea.

Yes, I would say so. If you're that uncertain, why not cut it open and inspect it first. See what you think of the construction. If it seems ok, buy another one and put it on. If not, buy something else.

I just put one of the new 16097-0008 Kawi filters on my bike at it's first oil change. It's made in China. Am I happy about that? Not really, the 0004 that came with the bike is very different (internally) and Made in Japan. But I'm not living in fear on a daily basis, it is a Kawasaki product and I'm 100% certain it is not the only product on the back from China.

I inspected my bike's first filter, and experimented with magnets too Magnets on oil filter? Kawasaki Oil Filter Review if you're interested.

Fiction, I haven't heard any thing bad about the filters made in Korea, the ones I have been hearing about
having problems, are from Mexico...

Like many things,some people are more anal than others when it comes to details. I believe some people are just built to delve further into the minutiae of a thing.
Myself,I've never used anything but those ghastly Fram oil filters on my vehicles and have 278,000 miles on my present P/U. The spare ride/Wife's old hoopty has 178,00 miles,same brand oil filter. I bought her a new Ford Edge last year,Fram oil filters. No catastrophic failures.
It's navel gazing,wanna-be engineers that start this shit when they can't find anything else to fuck with around the house.

I use Wix oil filters on my bikes. If they're good enough for the NASCAR engine shops,they're good enough for me.
I've used Fram on them for years but am in a position in life to use a premium filter.

I grew up around a guy that never changed his motor oil. He claimed motor oil never wore out and only changed the oil filter at 5,000 mile intervals(the way it used to be). His work trucks lasted as long as anybody else I was familiar with. Something to ponder.

I grew up around a guy that never changed his motor oil.

You now have to force the solid up the pump and make smoked sausages it comes out the other end.

He claimed...

Something to ponder.

OH shithefuk, looka my bike! Shit, what happened to 'Ponder?' Well sir, if that's what you call her, I'm calling to tell you to make arrangements, unless you rather find another "Roasta." This one was sent back in the barn without a wick.

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/25/2014 @ 9:06 AM *

LOL,I would imagine that's what the insides of his engines looked like also.
I use Mobile 1 4T and change it before recommened intervals thank you very much.
It was an anecdote. Relax.

* Last updated by: shotgun on 7/25/2014 @ 10:07 AM *

old farts and those old wives tails.

The photo you show as a great example of neglect, I don't believe is a case of someone only changing the filters for what looks like about 25,000 miles. That looks like nothing was changed for 25,000 miles. Also, I've seen examples of engines which were maintained with regular intervals with sludge built up in that manner.

Now, with that said, motor oil isn't expensive enough to avoid changing it at least somewhat regularly. That would be about as stupid as someone wasting money on cigarettes and complaining that food is too expensive.

Yes, this happens but not always. As I've stated before, I don't want to guess, I like to know things.

It was an anecdote. Relax.

From a Marine jet mechanic :

Oil Analysis....lol! As a jet engine mechanic and test inspector/instructor of 22+ years, it would take some catastrophic blockage to mess up a street bike. And yes, I performed NOAP (Navy Oil Analysis Program) inspections on the engines we test inspected.

For the RPM's we run, the standard oil filters you get at Napa, Sam's or Wally World will work just fine. If you're really anal, you can get the oil plug with the magnetic tip, what we call a chip detector. If you start to see 1/4" pieces or long 1/2" slivers, then you might have an impending bearing failure...maybe. Discount if it's an engine break-in. Outside of that, why bother with a $20 manufacturer filter (name brand cost) if you can save 75% and buy the same thing at Wally World? They will all provide more than adequate flow. Can anyone show me a bike that has siezed up due to a non-manufacturer oil filter that was the recommended filter for that filter brand?

Alot of sweat over nada.
__________________
Semper Fidelis

“Try to fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured... but not prove they are a citizen.”

Qui desiderat pacem praeparet bellum

All this being said, I AM NEVER RUNNING a FRAM JUST MY 2 cents

* Last updated by: carabuser on 7/25/2014 @ 11:51 AM *

Ok well I have used kn filtes for many years and never had a problem. Now I have! Just installed new kn filter 3 months ago. I've got a little over 5k miles since then. I have been noticing a little oil residue on the front lower fairing when cleaning bike. Couldn't find any leak. Yesterday I walk out to get ready for work and there is a little oil trail under the bike. WTF!!!! So I take the car to work. Today I tear the bike down. See oil residue on bottom or motor in in front fairing. Don't see any thing leaking. Start bike up and let it warn up. No leak. Restart bike and start. Reving to about 5k..freaking leak from k/n filter. Let bike cool a bit and pull filter. Here's what I found. Seal messed up. Almost looks like it was cut..Idk..so if you recently installed kn filter keep an eye on it.
p/n kn-303..been using same type of filter 4 oil changes. Maybe I just got a bad one..idk..back to stock filters for now! !

Blkcasper, where was that particular K&N made if you still have it ?

It looks like one of the ones made in Mexico, STAY AWAY FROM THOSE ! there have been problems with
the seals, also the passage hole for the anti-drain back valve is much smaller, at least on the car filters,

Don't know about the ones made in Korea, but haven't heard anything bad as of yet,

If you can get a hold of the "old" ones made in the USA, those are good filters.

Just looking out for you guys, hope this helps, Be safe brothers

* Last updated by: carabuser on 7/26/2014 @ 3:25 PM *

It says made in Korea. Got it from my local kawi dealer 4 months ago. Stock one I just installed is made in China. I always fill filter with oil and make sure air bubles are gone and make sure seal is lubed with oil before installing. 1st one I've ever had a problem with. Alot of oil residue on bottom of motor and inside of lower fairings so its been leaking for a while. Just not enough to see where leak was comming until it really got bad. Only seamed to leak at high revs. 5k or higher. Not while idling.