I poured it back in the bottles to recycle, but bottom of the pan seemed clean, but now im going to have to go out there and really look at it. Got my curiosity up.

LOL, those of us who look at stuff real hard sometimes just alarm everyone.

don't know how many owners let the bike drain for an extended period of time. I often do. The pan might sit for an hour. That might be why the metal is visible on the pan bottom. It all settles out by the time I empty the drain pan. Maybe this weekend I will try doing a super fast oil change and see if any metal flakes show up on the pan bottom. I'm not too worried about it. I'm pretty sure my Kaw Vulcan Classic did the same thing.

Thars aluminum in them thar crank cases!!!

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/23/2010 @ 6:35 PM *

Come to think of it Rook, I started draining my oil and then realized I didn't have new oil or a filter so I had to make a run to get them; that took about an hour or so. Things really had time to settle out. It would seem strange if only you, me and 1bad had clutch basket wear, I assume it would be more widesperead.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 9/24/2010 @ 12:24 PM *

I googled aluminum shavings and this is some of what I found:

But the stock clutch basket is usually the culprit of the aluminum shavings. I have always had a hinson in my bikes. my 426 I got used and as soon as I put the hinson in there, no more shavings in the oil.

The stock clutch basket will shed a good deal of aluminum, and even the good aftermarket ones will once they wear through the anodizing/akadizing. These chips will be non-ferrous, and a magnet won't pick them up.

First off see if they are metal or aluminum shavings. MOre than likely they are aluminum from the clutch basket.
Install a GYTR or Hinson basket in the bike and new clutch. That will solve the shavings problem there.

Next time I change the oil I will open up the filter and check inside. If there's a lot of particles I may pull the clutch cover off and take a look around, do a little exploratory surgery. I have been getting a high pitched whine when pulling in the clutch (not the same as the classic ZX-14 "rumble" with clutch out in neutral). I assume this is coming from the clutch throw out bearing (needle bearing). I'm starting to wonder if this is related?

* Last updated by: Kruz on 9/24/2010 @ 12:06 PM *

Hmmm, just thinking out loud here. The clutch whine started just a short time before I found the aluminum shavings at this last oil change. I'm almost willing to bet the throw out needle bearing 92046 is seized and the thrust washer 92022 is spinning against the pressure plate 13187 and gouging the surface. This would explain the whining sound with clutch pulled in and the sudden onset of aluminum particles in the oil. One of the guys on the ZX-10R site had to have that same needle bearing replaced under warranty on his Gen III. Almost identical layout on the 10R, I better pull the clutch cover pretty soon and have a look around. I am going to ride the 14 this evening, I'll pull my earplugs and check out the clutch whine and see if it's gotten any worse.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 9/24/2010 @ 12:27 PM *

man you on the wrong path for the metal shavings

part 13087
part 13095
part 13187

those the critters

you'll see where the teeth from the clutch steels eat into 13087 which causes clutch locking instead of traveling .
on 13095 you'll see where the fiber tabs eat into the outer housing..
and on 13187 on the holes for the springs you'll see where the spring rubs inside..

for every hour of racing i do 10 hours of maintenance so it seems

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 9/24/2010 @ 3:28 PM *

Rook wrote:
I always buy 5 qts and fill with 4 qt + 10 oz with new dry filter.

========================================================================================================================

You should alway fill your filter with oil beffore putting it on Rookster. Its a misconception that just because its a horizontally mounted filter that you can't put any oil in it, or you'll have a gigantic mess when you install it. The filter material absorbs a riduculously large amount of oil, you can fill the filter to the brim several times over and the oil will disappear completely if you let it sit for a minute or 2. Its best to do that until the filter stays half way full or so, then when you put it on, just put it up to the mounting point fairly quickly , thread her on and you'll lose either no oil, or maybe a drop or 2. Its a fact that most of an engines wear comes from starts. And it takes WAY longer for your oil light to go out, and the engine to try and fill that super absorbant dry filter, than if the filters already saturated and you can get oil directly to the crucial engine parts quickly Plus guys have been known to have airlock problems from installing dry filters where they couldn't get oil pressure at all....oil light stayed on. They had to try tricks like cracking the oil filter loose as the bike was running to get oil flow, talk about messy I've even read about guys tearing down motors over it All mechanics that change oil in any kind of engine are taught to prefill/saturate the filters before installing. Try it, it aint so bad. And it could save you wear on you're engine and oil change headaches down the road

Thanks Bad. Tried filling the filter for winter storage last year and it was a mess....but I didn't let the filter sit and absorb as you are recommending. Never had my oil light stay on for more than ~1 second after an oil change but no reason to skip the added insurance of prefilling the filter..

I told you guys that crap was comming from the clutch last month, you didn't believe me I guess! Also the super tec filter at wally World has a very good anti drain back valve ( no cam chain noise on start ). I am going to say that for you guys that like to get your rotella at walmart get the filter there also.

* Last updated by: buck20 on 9/24/2010 @ 11:48 PM *

I'm with 1 bad on this....he would definitely know.It all fits right with his explanation.Thanks Bad!(you too Buck)Now....where are my FERROUS slivers coming from?(on the ignition pickup).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/25/2010 @ 12:04 AM *

Blue, What about your shifting? Last I heard you were having problems with missed shifts. Banging those gears around can shave off some material.

I told you guys that crap was comming from the clutch last month, you didn't believe me I guess! Also the super tec filter at wally World has a very good anti drain back valve ( no cam chain noise on start ). I am going to say that for you guys that like to get your rotella at walmart get the filter there also.

I believed in ya, Buck. That's why I stopped being concerned about this some time ago. I spread the word but sometimes it takes a little convincing. Now we have a few opinions from other sources that are consistent with your opinion.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/25/2010 @ 7:24 AM *

?(on the ignition pickup).

from the transmission and oil pump .that pick-up is magnetic and works like a magnetic drain plug from back in the day .

i also forgot about the oil pump gears eating into the aluminum covers

Yo, BadZX, when you look up gear head in the dictionary there's a picture of you hu!

* Last updated by: buck20 on 9/25/2010 @ 11:37 AM *

Hey Buck...shift quality is superb now.Guess the oil just needed some time on it?No missed shifts at all.

Clutch whine is gone when I pull in the clutch, not sure what that was but I'm going to leave it alone for now and recheck the drain oil next time around. My point was if 92046 needle bearing siezes then it will very quickly cause 92022 thrust washer to eat into the 13187 pressure plate and shave off aluminum bits. This would also explain the clutch whine. 1Bad is right, there are a few places on these engines where aluminum shavings can come from but that clutch hub is numeru uno. It's all part of operating the engine though, if you run it it will wear, nothing lasts forever.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 9/27/2010 @ 10:47 AM *