1/4th of the way with oil....what does this mean?

Answer these questions:

1. Did I follow owner's manual break-in... Yes or no?
2. Where is my oil level right now? Hold bike upright, report where in the window?
3. Did I launch control past redline, or how high did the engine rev?
4. I've been launch controlling in the past, this is not the first time.
5. I've gone to redline almost every time out, wizz my nuts up when the coast is clear is why I bought the thing.
6. I need to come clean and this is not a one time deal but beat shit out of the bike like I do.
7. The bike is as fast as it ever was, it's not the rings, but big volume of turbulence off the crank and no place to go but fill up the ram chamber, the oil recovery bottle... Shit happens so they know this is going to occur is empty the bottle and move on.
8. I wouldn't listen to that motherfucker Hubshit until the compression calls the ball.

"but big volume of turbulence off the crank and no place to go but fill up the ram chamber, the oil recovery bottle... Shit happens so they know this is going to occur is empty the bottle and move on"...true.Even Brock mentioned this long ago...oil in the airbox after repeated 1/4 mile runs.I've had oil in the airbox.No 1/4 mile runs...but hard accelerations up to redline,a few times in a row.(going through the gears).IF your's was a bit overfilled...you could get an excessive amount of blowby...even with good rings.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/9/2015 @ 10:38 PM *

I got oil in my bottle one day, was shocked to see it. Emptied it out and cleaned it out, was fine after that.

1. Did I follow owner's manual break-in... Yes or no? - Not sure, wasn't the original owner

2. Where is my oil level right now? Hold bike upright, report where in the window?- At the correct level now

3. Did I launch control past redline, or how high did the engine rev? - 6k rpm launch control test a few times ( 3 max)

4. I've been launch controlling in the past, this is not the first time. Negative

5. I've gone to redline almost every time out, wizz my nuts up when the coast is clear is why I bought the thing.- Nope

6. I need to come clean and this is not a one time deal but beat shit out of the bike like I do.-Nope, i ride like a grandma lol

7. The bike is as fast as it ever was, it's not the rings, but big volume of turbulence off the crank and no place to go but fill up the ram chamber, the oil recovery bottle... Shit happens so they know this is going to occur is empty the bottle and move on.- Yes, there is 0 performance change....still pulls like a freight train

8. I wouldn't listen to that motherfucker Hubshit until the compression calls the ball. still have to find time to do this.

* Last updated by: rsrider25 on 9/10/2015 @ 5:53 AM *

Can you do a leak down test with the engine in the bike ?

Is there enough room to stick a screw driver down the plug hole to find TDC or must the valve cover come off

Just completed a compression test. That's pretty much the same setup as a leakdown test isn't it? It sorta sucks dropping a rubber hose down the spark plug well and screwing it in but once you get the hang of it, no big problem.

You should be able to get a screwdriver or some other tool in there to find TDC. Spark plug well is about 5 inches deep on a Gen 1. It is very easy to remove the crank shaft cover and line up the marks on the timing wheel to find TDC. It's in my valve clearance check and adjustment tutorial if you want pics and details.

I use a long zip tie.

Firing order is 1-2-4-3. Start anywhere and once you know who was on the compression stroke, proceed to the next firing order. Sit on bike; far left is 1st cylinder, far right is #4 cylinder. For example, to start with #1 cylinder; Blow into the adapter. If it does not resist and fill up you cheeks, the stroke is one of 3 remaining.

The chopstick method works for finding the piston coming up for a second time. Once you have the cylinder at TDC, blow into the adapter and if it's sealed, slide a long 2x4, or a long hefty screwdriver thru the back wheel, laid on top of the swingarm. This is when the air pressurizes and wants to send the piston back down. Stopping it with the crank cover off is a waste. this is rather 4 plugs removed and now work the wheel and adapter.

Since you had it in gear to turn the back wheel, you want to stop the crank from opening up a valve on the way down. So to find 6th gear to spin easier, really spin up the back wheel and then shift up to 2nd gear to override the safety lockout. Either you spun too slow, spun backwards, timed it wrong on the initial centrifugal locker to shift throw swing it kind of routine.