That's a sweet color scheme on your bike Don.Very nice.I never cared for ducati's either.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/9/2020 @ 9:17 AM *

That makes sense to me Hub. You have convinced me to get those valves checked. Makes sense that dry is definitely what one should expect and although I did throw the old plugs away the threads do look wet in the photos. A few years ago I do recall adding engine oil to top the level off but I believe the reason was because I failed to add enough after a oil change. The reason I have not had the valves checked to date falls back to the reasons I stated in my earlier comment above. Trust issues and K&N mechanics advice, not the cost.

Would not the exhaust burn the oil to a degree that I couild smell or see it? Just curious.
I am going to have it check out asap.

Thanks Grn. I like your green one too. It was that one or the Anniversary Firecracker Red one.

Would not the exhaust burn the oil to a degree that I couild smell or see it?

I would think so if you're burning a lot of oil. If you haven't noticed needing to add oil, I doubt if you are burning it and you don't have an external leak either.

Here's my theory on oily plug threads: The cylinders and valves have to get get lubricated like the rest of the engine. I'd expect a little oil to be deposited at the top of the combustion dome every time the engine runs either through vaporizing, atomizing, dripping or splashing. If combustion isn't happening at the moment and there is a bit of oil deposited, that oil can seep up the threads a tiny bit. Next ignition, that smudge of oil gets burned with the fuel and is gone but the oil that seeped up the threads is protected from burning. Deeper and deeper up the threads the oil creeps during the brief moments when oil is deposited and can't be burned. The longer you use the plugs, the more oil there is to seep up the threads. If you change the plugs sooner next time, I bet you won't see as much oil seeping up the threads. The tips of your plugs don't look greasy so I would say you're not burning oil.

Just a theory. I had oily threads on mine too and they were in a long time.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/9/2020 @ 11:13 AM *

---

I like your explanation Rook, ALOT!
I still think I better schedule the valve check. K&N Yamaha this time.

We'd have to ask Hub if tight valves could cause oil to leak into the cylinders and seep up into the spark plug threads. Seems to me tight valves would seal better but they would also open earlier and stay open longer. At 37k miles, I'd say it's hight time to check the valve clearance anyway. It probably stopped wearing in 25k miles ago but might as well get it set where it should be.

If you don't see smoke and you don't have a wet oil residue on your muffler exhit and you don't have to add, that bike isn't burning oil.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/9/2020 @ 2:58 PM *

---

It's too thin a loss to smell it. Only way to tell is to watch the oil level. My beaters would drop way before 3k intervals. One loss was so bad I noticed a drop in power. Looked in the sight window and saw nothing. Topped it off and the power came back. I see that as the bubble under the pistons. The higher the level, the stronger the air pressure. That's the only thing I can come up with.

Top ring is to seal.
Center ring is to scrape oil down.
Bottom ring is the oil control ring, where the scraped oil exits thru the holes in the piston groove located behind the 3-piece ring or the wave band they use.

On the down stroke, the scraper should be cleaning the wall of oil. On the up stroke, it builds pressure, the compression ring sort of pushes the miss-scraped oil back up to the head. As the gas mist mixes with the oil, the compression builds and the turbulence thinning the oil, the oil heads up the threads.

Military played with oils back in the 50's for jet engines anshit; found oil can be compressed down to a millionth of and inch. I don't see that kind of tolerance with a plug thread, so my guess is more the path up; and the rest is burned with each power stroke, times rpm, or hours spent riding and oil being depleted times 4 cylinders.

---

Both of you, Rook and Hub are really taking me to school here. I truly appreciate learning all of this. Millionth of an inch huh? It definitely would find its way up those threads then.
Going to have it checked out Hub.

Exhaust exits are clean although each time I wash it after the first run I do have to wipe off a few black spots on the exit ends of the mufflers around the exit pipe. I figure its just condensation being burned out. Not oily at all.

Thanks for the free help you guys. Stay safe and healthy.

... if tight valves could cause oil to leak into the cylinders

No. It does not work that way, but other ways. A loose valve guide or a failed valve seal is finding this trick when buying any used engine. When the engine runs with a worn guide, vacuum sucks like electricity, meaning, it will pull from all places and paths to return back to 14.7psi. Think every intake stroke; that vacuum is pulling oil out of the guide and burning it with every power stroke. When the engine stops running, oil flows down the guide, onto the tulip or if the valve is open, drops onto the piston dome. When it first lights up in the morning, a puff of smoke appears and goes away once it idles. Walk from that deal. When an engine smokes all the time, it's rings. Always ask the seller to start it up and you are at the exhaust pipe looking for the puff out the pipe. Always inspect a cold engine or ask to see it in the morning without it running. Ass [is] me how I know?

Seems to me tight valves would seal better

1.Tight means no oil lube when two parts never have an air gap between them so that tiny bit of oil saves the cam and shim from scoring.
2. Tight means the valve is off its seat and is letting air out so compression is lost.
3. Tight means the valve has no time to cool and dissipate the heat off the valve, cracks and chips off these tiny pie cuts are the cracks.

... but they would also open earlier and stay open longer.

a. Tight clearance: Valve opens early on the intake. Exhaust opens early and the power stroke stops sooner.
b. Book clearance: Valve opens to its best performance OL, as will the exhaust remain closed to extend the power.
c. Loose clearance: Valve opens late. Sits on the seat longer and cools the best. Grunt value. You sacrifice OL performance if you ran anything other than the blueprint [center clearance] number.

At 37k miles, I'd say it's hight time to check the valve clearance anyway. It probably stopped wearing in 25k miles ago but might as well get it set where it should be.

That kind of mileage is pushing it. Metal is moving is why the inspection:
1. Seat; can walk up into the head - clearance gap narrows.
2. Valve tulip; is hammered round, no longer has that sharp 45° cut, where the stem moves up, narrows the gap.
3. Seat; also loses its 45° cut, rounds that face, or flattens it, and that too narrows the gap is the walk up the guide.

Performance Gap:
a. Tight setting or the limit the book calls for... has a faster event occurring and drag racing gives a better OL number at the end of the track.
b. Middle setting or book clearance it calls for is the best of both world settings.
c. Loose setting or minimum book clearance is the cooler valve, the better low end grunt, lost middle, lost top end kind of performances.

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/9/2020 @ 8:36 PM *

---

Hub's already explained to me elsewhere but I will have a hundred questions the next time I adjust my valves. Like most mods, it's probably not of huge consequence in the real world unless you're racing. As long as you have the valve clearance in spec, going with the middle of the road setting is probably as good as anything.

---

Pretty interesting info there Hub. Still taking me to school I see

My friend showed up a little while ago with his new bike. Very nice! Pretty comfortable too. We have made plans to take a ride together very soon. He told me his break in period requires that he not go above 5,500 rpm's for 600 miles. He has already put 345 miles (100 of those were from the dealer to his home) on it so hopefully by the time we get together for a ride we'll have some fun. This week I will check on getting those valves checked out.

He has already ordered an exhaust from Two Brothers (dual). If I like how they sound after hearing them I may do the same and retire these pumpkin launchers.

* Last updated by: doznkoz on 5/10/2020 @ 6:44 PM *

Nice busa there. Tell him to get on the org if he's not already there. My name is Mythos there.

I whooped my 08 busa's ass from the first time I got on it. It was redlined at WOT before I got it home. Doesn't use any oil and runs great. Only real complaint is that kickstand sucks on the busa. Tell your buddy to be very cautious about that, some people file the stand down so it pivots forward a bit more.

Speaking of spark plugs, I gotta change plugs on the busa soon. Air filter too. I'm about to change my first chain and sprockets too.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/10/2020 @ 8:05 PM *

---

I'll let him know that Rook. His first Busa was a 2007 that he sold to another friend of his a few years ago. He told me that before he purchased this new one he contacted the guy to see if he could buy it back but the fella did not want to let it go. Merlin told me that this new one seems to handle a bit better then the '07 but it may be due to the fact that he had lowered it an inch or so. Said the winds don't push it from the side nearly as hard maybe due to the increased clearance or just better design. Anyway, he is a happy camper! I know he looks like a guy who one would expect to be on a Harley (I get this too) and he has owned his fair share of them in his distance past. The truth is he says he will never purchase another one. Too much time at the shop getting things repaired or replaced. The 14R being my first and only bike so I really have no opinion on that subject. Harley Davidson does make some nice looking rides but I myself am just not into putting around town. Don't see myself ever purchasing one either.
Stay healthy and safe guys.

---