My coworker who owns the same bike I do doesn't want to delete ABS

I agree, ABS is safer overall, and at my skill level I do feel
that I need it , particularly at the back wheel, I've had some
close calls when I thought I was better than abs, I'm not.
For the way I ride, I don't think I'll miss front abs, it's
gone now, its the rear wheel that gives me trouble or did
in the past, I'll load up both front and back heavy, but
too heavy in the back, that is a problem for me.
It would be too complex a project but I wish I had
the ability to have flip a switch and have combined braking
as was on the gold wing, say 20% rear brake anytime I hit
the front brake. But then bleeding and just the entire
apparatus is just way too much to deal with.
I had 7 bleed valves on the gold wing, and the sequence
of bleeding was tedious and could get quite confusing,
like the Abbot and Costello skit; ''who's on first''

The thread started out by talking about a plug to fit pipes coming from the ABS. Is this the pump on the LH side of the battery compartment? Maybe you alluded to or have already explained but what do you hope to achieve by blocking these pipes?

The pump is under the tank on the left side,
opposite and forward of the battery box.
What I'd hoped, beyond hope, to accomplish was that
by plugging the abandoned lines;
-Brake fluid wouldn't just spit out all over the place
once I refitted the 3 abs fuses that I'd removed once
the front oem hoses were removed.
I thought I should put the fuses in, to see if
I could get rid of codes and restore my speedometer,
and kill the ck eng light and ktrc light as well as
'fix' the constant flashing screen info.
-I also had hoped (again, just a shot in the dark), that
somehow by keeping pressure in the abs pump module, I
could still have rear ABS.
And low and behold ALL OF MY WISHES turned into reality.
I have great front brakes (non abs which I'm fine with)
no codes, not even an abs light burning, and I have
my rear abs returned to normal abs function, as well
as Traction Control 1 (KTRC).
Let me know what's missing in this explanation if
anything.
------------------
I guess it's been about two weeks since my front brake
failed, so that is still a bit of a mystery, that I
can't figure, but I can't stress enough that a
clogged line imv is way off the list, that lever was
locked out 100%, so maybe like daddy rabbit was saying,
there could be a valve in the system that locked up.
And as you know from earlier posts, I think you pointed
this out, so we ruled out bad mc, as the top bleeder
was properly easy to bleed, no issues.
--
So I had an amazing short ride on the way back from
coffee this am, big smile...
It's like a good woman/wife, when she's happy, everyone's happy.
Bike is happy, I'm happy...
haha.

I'll make a thread before to long on what I've done, with photos,
and might put up a youtube video on it.

//

I had 7 bleed valves on the gold wing, and the sequence
of bleeding was tedious and could get quite confusing,
like the Abbot and Costello skit; ''who's on first''

The pump is under the tank on the left side,
opposite and forward of the battery box.
What I'd hoped, beyond hope, to accomplish was that
by plugging the abandoned lines;
-Brake fluid wouldn't just spit out all over the place
once I refitted the 3 abs fuses that I'd removed once
the front oem hoses were removed.
I thought I should put the fuses in, to see if
I could get rid of codes and restore my speedometer,
and kill the ck eng light and ktrc light as well as
'fix' the constant flashing screen info.
-I also had hoped (again, just a shot in the dark), that
somehow by keeping pressure in the abs pump module, I
could still have rear ABS.
And low and behold ALL OF MY WISHES turned into reality.
I have great front brakes (non abs which I'm fine with)
no codes, not even an abs light burning, and I have
my rear abs returned to normal abs function, as well
as Traction Control 1 (KTRC).
Let me know what's missing in this explanation if
anything.

You're on your way to becoming the ABS block guru around here! Props!

I'll make a thread before to long on what I've done, with photos,
and might put up a youtube video on it.

Awesome! I've been making a bunch of Gen2 tutorials myself over the past few months.

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You're on your way to becoming the ABS block guru around here! Props!

haha, thanks Rook.
I've got no clue what I'm doing, my hunch just happened to out
to work, a tiny scrap of logic mixed in with a lot of luck,
it should not have turned out so well.

Awesome! I've been making a bunch of Gen2 tutorials myself over the past few months.

Yep, you've got some excellent tutorials here, they've
helped me quite a bit, and a lot of other
riders here as well.

Yep, you've got some excellent tutorials here, they've
helped me quite a bit, and a lot of other
riders here as well.

Thanks. The tutorials help me too. I usually look back to them anytime I do the same work on the bike. i have to thank BG for providing the platform, it's what I spend most of my bike related time doing. I spend the least amount of time riding but that has worked out pretty well for me personally.

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I spend most of my bike related time doing. I spend the least amount of time riding but that has worked out pretty well for me personally.

Yeah, I totally get that, and you've been into
bikes a hella a long time, especially this kind
of bike.
So cool that you have that new Busa now too,
to work with.

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Rook, I posted a new thread with linked video,
for my ABS delete project.

Saw it, spent the evening thinking about that. This is an ABS disable technique. Delete would mean you took the whole ABS system out of the bike. While I'm intrigued with your disabling ABS, my goal will be to remove it for weight reduction.

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This is an ABS disable technique. Delete would mean you took the whole ABS system out of the bike. While I'm intrigued with your disabling ABS, my goal will be to remove it for weight reduction.

Yes, I think that is correct, I can't change the title here
but might change the video title or at least make a correction
in the Description box.
From memory, a couple of months ago, I think Brock was
stating that the weight savings by removing the abs
could be up to about 7 lbs, which sounds pretty good to me too,
though in my case, for now I'll keep the rear abs-working
option.

I've deleted the evaporative emissions system on my 2024 and it's about a couple pounds. Worth it to me because gasoline fumes aren't much of an environmental threat and there won't be any liquid gasoline spills if you don't overfill the tank. ABS on the other hand, that's an important safety feature. You gotta choose your path on that, weight loss or safety. Seven lbs is an awful big weight reduction. That's how I'm going. My safety net is that I don't ride very much.

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Anybody put together a video or procedure for the emissions delete for the current gen? I recently bought a '22 and would like to remove all that stuff. Have a '25 1100SX and followed a nice write up on that forum. I'm sure it's just "remove and cap" but it's nice to follow along if someone already took the time to document the procedure.

I've deleted the evaporative emissions system on my 2024 and it's about a couple pounds. Worth it to me because gasoline fumes aren't much of an environmental threat and there won't be any liquid gasoline spills if you don't overfill the tank. ABS on the other hand, that's an important safety feature.

I didn't know we had one, and when that nozzle clicks,
I hang it up.
When Bill Gates has his crew start up one of his yachts,
before it even kicks completely over the entire Program's 'savings'
has 'evaporated' :smi

ABS on the other hand, that's an important safety feature.

:shrugs:, I could be wrong but my contention is that barring slamming
into a UPS truck @Hub ( though, maybe he hit a mail-truck), the most
horrible and frequent braking related issue imv is HIGH-SIDES, ACCKKKK,
those are the most dangerous, so for me having been on the front
end of more than one, I cherish that rear abs, the front, nah,,
not so much.

My safety net is that I don't ride very much

(MORE PEOPLE NEED TO READ THIS!) /\ /\ /\

Yes !
Now that is ''safe and effective'' ! You've cut that equation,
by at least 1/2 I'd say.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 7/25/2026 @ 4:02 AM *

Anybody put together a video or procedure for the emissions delete for the current gen? I recently bought a '22 and would like to remove all that stuff.

I can't help there BMW, but welcome to the forum...

Anybody put together a video or procedure for the emissions delete for the current gen? I recently bought a '22 and would like to remove all that stuff.

I have a photo illustrated tutorial all done except for the photos of the deleted items on the scale. I intend to post it in the How-Tos section soon. I believe the 2022 has the same evap system as my 2024, the canister is in the RH side/lower fairing. You disconnect the overflow and purge valve evap lines at the RH ram air tube then remove the RH side fairing. Inside the side fairing is the canister and bracket. It's just a few screws to remove those. Then you remove the remainder of the evap purge valve hose and the purge valve. You must have the proper resister plug to connect to the purge valve lead. I got mine from Brock's, it's the same one he sells for deleting the PAIR. You will also need a vacuum cap to block the nipple into throttle bodies #4 that the purge valve hose goes to. Measure the ID of the purge valve hose before ordering vacuum caps. I got a 1/8" and it was way small but worked because it was made of flexible silicone. Think the ID of the purge valve hose is something like 5/32". Best bet might be to buy a set of vacuum caps with a variety of sizes. Last step is to run the overflow evap hose across the gearbox to the LH side and then down to where the fuel tank ring water drain tube and coolant reservoir overflow tube exit. The overflow evap tube is pretty bulky especially with the mesh sheath that covers it. I suggest removing that whole overflow evap tube and replacing with tygon but that would entail removing the gas tank on top of everything else.

I need to finish the Gen2 fairings removal tutorial before I post the evap delete. Evap deletion requires removal of all fairings except the top and tail fairings. If you need the evap delete right away, I can post it...removing fairings on the Gen2, one should really have all the info. I busted tabs on both my side covers and cracked my battery door so far. About $650.

You are correct though...nobody has documented evap delete for the 14R yet. There's a ZX-4 video that kind of sort of gives a little clue about how it should be done. One thing, don't block the overflow/vent tube from the fuel tank, you need that open and exiting under the bike. Purge valve tube, remove and block the T-bodies nipple. Don't forget the resistor.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/25/2026 @ 5:21 PM *

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@Rook, look forward to your post. The process sounds identical to the 1100SX, and that was also a right PITA to route hoses without completely removing the gas tank. I did it, but lots of swearing and sweating was involved. If you haven't seen it, yet here's a decent video of ZX-14R side fairing removal that I used when I first got the bike to clean it up and route a USB cable to the front.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbGVtpocTg8&t=448s&pp=ygUVengxNHIgZmFpcmluZyByZW1vdmFs

* Last updated by: bmw111 on 7/26/2026 @ 9:47 AM *

Even if you burp the coolant lines, it's better to ride the bike without the fairings, let sit overnight and then top off the rez. Remove radiator cap to top off coolant. Ass me how I know.

Assist:

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bmw111,
'
"you grab on here and here and pull straight back."

That's what got me into trouble breaking the first side cover. It's "you make sure the rubber heat shield is pulled off of the side fairing tab." You can actually pull a quick rivet and pull the rubber heat shield off the tab and then you know there will be no problem with the tab hanging up in it. That was a $300 lesson. Second, you darned well better be sure both bayonet projections are pulled out of the grommets because they will brake off if you dont. That was $300 lesson #2. These video tutorials are good. I guess they work for most people but I have all the tricks to make sure you don't f anything up now that i did.

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