A-C = Balance is Ohm's Law or think like this ~ For every action there is an equal balance.
A-C = Output is a wave. Think like this ~ A wave coming to shore begins flat, peaks, then returns flat.
A-C = I am going to act as a low current and build up to peak current. Lift off the gas, the wave subsides.
A-C = Waves can be captured at both ends, meaning, capture both actions.
Volt/Reg/Rect = One box to capture both waves, covert to D-C, and dump the excess A-C.
VRR = The A-C comes in as 2-waves. The one way switches inside the box see the other wave and sends it to [ > ] direction.
VRR = Has 3-variables and can walk in a 101001010110 kind of capture/dump/capture/capture/capture/dump direction.
VRR = Has many type of resistor parts like diodes that can move the wave in this < direction, or 10 is the walk say.
VRR = Has 3 moves and this direction moves to ground [ >| ] is this symbol and now can be used as 00 in computer speak.
VRR = Can capture both directions, use the preset resistors/diodes to move thru the 1's and 0's so 14.2v is displayed.
VRR = Can see the rpm increase, cannot take the excess A-C output in the higher range and dumps it to ground [ >| ].
VRR = Can now be seen as regulating both in input of the fluctuating wave, know if it can move it thru the resistors or dump it to ground, so it does not overload (heat) the resistors, nor cook the battery: is this simple but complex device.
Battery = Is a simple resistor/silo/distributor.
R-RSD = The resistor part is if you did not have the battery in between the two cables, tied both the pose/neg together, the VRR would think the battery is dead [going to >| and then open to full range trying to bring the battery back up to 14.2v say. Now you have 15-16v at a 12v bulb and she blows. Because the box can be built to take on any input range, but for the VRR, she cuts off around that range so it does not [again] over cook the battery.
S-RSD = The holding tank, the current needed if you add up the watts to the bulbs running. Math is not my strong point so all I know is, the battery can hold a little more than a bright light being turned on for a few minutes of high beam and some warm gloves. Try draining the battery with key on and walk way. In a few hours it might be bright to yellow bright? Yellow dim you have the high beam on and set the brake light on, is still a lot of battery keeping those bulbs glowing.
D-RSD = The distribution will tax what? The VRR. Why? Because instead of going to ground and cooling faster, it's feeding battery with the HID/Gloves/GPS/Radar/Tunes/Cig lighter/Vibrator-she comes for a ride [the bike being too smooth a ride]... I hear.
P = Wattage is how much power is my bulb? 3w or a 65w bulb?
E = Voltage across a battery is how much is left in reserve? Is my battery up to snuff @ 12.8v [ideal] static?
I = Current thru a wall or a cloud? How much am I going to lose pushing one molecule against another down a wire made of copper/lead/water/etc.
R = Resistance can be measured in how much power will it take to run in a cloud, thru water, in mud, quicksand, my light bulb does not look bright like when it was new. WATThe blankitty blank should I look for? No, where the fork should I start? I have 3 guess IS!
Keep it going, meb. Correct me you see a need to clean it up. I used my own abstract for the same thing. We completed 3 jobbers. Alt-Reg-Batt. Yours is more complex with a 4th variable, correct?
* Last updated by: Hub on 2/28/2013 @ 3:23 PM *
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