Gentleman,
I start out and the roads are beautiful and clear (hypothetically) and as she eats real estate, one or two cages pop up over the horizon.

The zero grave was an Internet order I got stock cone, no DB but with my frame it's like trying to wear a miniskirt in a pool of pariahs!

Buck, 60 ain't slow, anything there or North and the heli-evac is picking up "peices!"

Exactly wolf. I pick my spots, I roll the dice, you been up there, its hella nice.

Damn, now I can't quit rhyming! :)))

Keeping time, while you cross the line, is fine, while dropping a mad rhyme
Is out of control, and how my homie CBlasts rolls!

"The velocity for me is as a key element as the carve. The lean. The torque. The acceleration. The deeper top end violent rush. The velocity. The melt. The brake. The waggle(I love the waggle). The turn. Then the stop."

Cblast my man - what's "the waggle?"

Hey Su, when in tc mode 1 at lean when I start feeding in throttle firmly, the slight TC intervention as torque is breaking traction causes a slight waggle in the rear end when leaned over at speed. I have experienced it at the edge of adhesion in NON TC bikes and there be dragons. Means you are a twitch away from a highside. When accelerating hard in say second out of a corner and you load the chassis and feed in throttle coming out that little waggle changes to loosey kinda front end waggle for a sec as the built up energy leaves out the front wheel. Tc allows firm throttle app and riding it out into a corner exit 2nd gear power wheelie with a little waggle as you straighten up and grab third..... Well, that's better than most sex.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/26/2013 @ 3:41 PM *

Maybe it sounds like I'm talkin crazy talk. All I do is pick a corner, I dissect it into its parts. I try and hit corner entry a certain way 20 times. Then I try hit apex 20 times, then exit. Then put the three together. Then practice. Then wait for my prey.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/26/2013 @ 3:57 PM *

Sounds perfectly logical and like loads of fun. I don't seriously feed throttle out of turns until straightened up. Probably am being too conservative given the capabilities of my 14R. Plan to gradually start exploring launching out of the turns a little more aggressively - don't want to waste the good money spent on TC!! The magazine road test editors all claim to lay down "darkies" with impunity and minimal skill required.

However, one thing that's holding me back is watching the MotoGP guys. They have the most talent and the most sophisticated TC on the planet. Nevertheless, they high side like big dogs all the time in this same riding situation. Currently, Lorenzo and Pedrosa both have broken collar bones due to big high sides. Those young warriors heal in 3 weeks but it would probably take me forever. Plus my Texas roads don't really lend themselves to this fun. When in doubt - ???

Yeah, I know su, it holds us all back, not just you! I roll into that zone of intervention, in a given section I work up to it in mode 2 and I feel how it feels. Then I try a little harder, little faster. Now lately, I kinda trust the way mode 1 intervenes with the grip of the pp3's. nice linear intervention at modest lean and hard acceleration. The deeper the lean the earlier the intervention. I practice on roundabouts. That'll get you to the intervention point earlier cause Of the angle. Gotta be smoooooth. It's why I personally don't use a faster rate throttle. Now I am gaining confidence in the off corner drive intervention, once easing up the angle and feeding in throttle, (you know that moment when you start to change horizon??) feed in harder as horizon or lean lessens. It's just such an awesome machine cause when doin this stuff out of 2nd gear corners the torque allows you to eat hard out of that lean and she does a beautiful little 10 o clock wheelie (mode 1)! I started playing with that shit after a member in here was talking about how they just smash it in first gear in tc1 and the resulting power wheelie is consistent and lets down smoothly even if the gas is smashed. It piqued my interest, I tried, its awesome. Combined their wheelie technique with my off corner drive technique and I found a very happy place. See, pull off a good corner with solid entrance speed, hard drive, little wheelie, hard up to sixth in some spots, tell me that ain't what this baby is all about! She sure feels like it when I roll up that garage door every morning! :))))

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/27/2013 @ 8:11 AM *

Copy smooth and gradually expand the limits. I never thought about using TC2 to help nanny me up the learning curve - great idea - thanks!!

Ya know, the first couple of weeks I used low power mode and tc3. It is verry smooth and worth trying when feeling how tc works at lean. I find tc performs better with grilled tires as it allows the electronic algorithms that are going on to feed in the power rather than having to react to the stock metzlers sudden slip that I think was occurring as I transitioned across the different bands at lean and such. Any better tire will help. Any tire in the right profile will help. Both profile and tire selection have helped an already good system be better in my humble opinion. I believe I got the idea of exploring the lower levels first from Hub. It was a revelation at lean in a roundabout!

I'm going to have to try playing with tc2/3 to "learn" turning the bike.

CBlast, how do you run your suspension and tires? I ride 140 miles a day back and fourth to work and I like the suspension setup on the stiff side and the tires a little softer making them "work".

not recommended Wolfie!

Wholly shite! Wha happen?

Geez...now yer scarin me Bean!My God...be careful will ya;)

Now THESE are ride reports...no offense to anyone...real time....that's what I'm after...real time.Thanks C.

LOL photo is on my FB home page ! just thought it's appropriate fer this area

Bikepsyche
Safety first, Always wear a helmet when riding!

RE-POST / 'SHARE if you CARE'

* Last updated by: bean07 on 7/27/2013 @ 7:37 PM *

CBlast, how do you run your suspension and tires? I ride 140 miles a day back and fourth to work and I like the suspension setup on the stiff side and the tires a little softer making them "work".

I was just talking about this with Nasty and Grn and Wolf. So here she is:

Caveat:(These adjustments are simply what I like my bike to feel like with these tires. She is smooth and compliant at in town stuff and carves and slices well when pushed. She is very stable at MAX VELOCITY 186mph. I don't get any head shake or scary things happening at lean or at speed. I can easily encourage a front or rear end waggle with power out of corners or hard braking into corners. FOR ME SHE IS GOOD. At lean she is a little softer than I USED to like. This bike seems to feel to me she likes it a little more compliant at lean. When stiff at lean AND fighting TC it felt LESS confidence inspiring. At lean when she is a little 'loose' feeling and my ass is off, she carves predictably and finishes turns nicely and I can adjust line mid corner with confidence. Ie: set up like this for me she doesn't want to shake me off at lean under power NOR brakes.)

I weigh 180lbs
Tires: Michelin pilot power III
F: 120/70/17 R: 190/55/17
Front Forks-

Preload- 5.5 lines showing (went to six showing and back half a turn)

Rebound- 6 clicks out from full stiff (both top adjusters should be equal clicks out)

Compression- 9 clicks out from full stiff (also both equally out)

Rear shock:

Preload- 16mm showing above the lockring (I adjust with hammer and screwdriver, mark lockring with sharpie line against adjuster ring. Re align marks once adjusted, this ensures correct lock ring tension)

Rebound- 1/4 turn STIFFER THAN STOCK
Compression- 1/8 turn SOFTER THAN STOCK

Note: when adjusting your suspension always make clear precise notes that you can refer to and repeat that adjustment!

Never FORCE any of the adjusters (except rear spring preload, that you must hit with a hammer), these adjusters are PRECISE INTERNAL OIL FLOW STRICTURE MECHANISMS. When adjusting you will immediately feel what a 'click' feels like.

When adjusting fr rebound for instance, you can click the adjuster with a screwdriver in until you feel it come up snug. That is full stiff. It doesn't feel like a click, so do not force it. Stop. Adjust back til it 'clicks'. That is position ZERO. Then count out 1. 2. Etc.

You don't need anyone to help you get close setting front preload. Wrap a zip tie around left fork leg. Bike on kickstand. Pull up on bars. Gently let go. Move zip tie up all way. Carefully sit on bike, carefully sit bike vertical and carefully lift BOTH feet off ground for just a moment without losing your balance. If you think you bounced the chassis too hard. Re set zip tie. Try again. No worries. Then back on stand and measure how far down from the top the zip tie moved when the bike supported your entire weight. This is your front sag. You want about 28-30 mm. Just over an inch. This measurement is most accurately achieved with rebound and compression in their LOOSEST or SOFTEST setting.

Power her up...you only live here once

"Cowards die many times before their deaths,
The valiant never taste of death but once."

--From Julius Caesar (II, ii, 32-37)

William Shakespeare

I like the below setup for in a straight line/touring. I have not found the limit of its turning ability yet. I have the bike lowered 1.5 in the front and 1" in the rear. If I am not on the balls of my feet when turning, the bottoms of my feet scrape. Its an un settling feeling. Because I am not sure how much more room I have before the peg hits. I am a touch heavier at 205. It was stable at 180. Biggest improvement was aligning the tires with a string and a ruler.

Front Suspension
• Pre-load = 3 lines (showing) OEM is 8 lines showing. (32mm total sag)
• Compression = 5 (clicks out from full in)
• Rebound = 6 (clicks out from full in)

Rear Suspension
• Pre-load = I need to measure the nut for ya, but 30mm total sag. But I think I am 1-1.5 turns from full.
• Compression = 1 ¾ (Turn out from full in)
• Rebound = 2 (Turns out from full in)

32/34 psi on the stockers. Flat spotted in the middle.

I also set the static and rider sag with the rebound and compression where they are currently, which is probably wrong. 32mm front 30mm rear.

Fat, may I make a suggestion? The general rule is that the compression should be softer than the rebound to a balanced degree. Here's why: the rebound movent gets the tire back in contact with the road quickly, giving control, and compression gives compliance, giving confidence. It might be worthwhile simply 'swapping' your front and rear compression and rebound damping settings. Ie: fr: comp-7 out. Rebound-5 out. Rear: comp-2turns out. Rebound- 1 3/4 turns out. That might just give you the feel you seek. Maybe not. It was just the first thought i had when looking at your settings sir.

As to pressure I run cold psi at front :38 rear:39
The big bike tends to settle down with a little more pressure. Also, may help with the slight flat spotting. Those suspension suggestions I made might be wrong due to the hinge change created by lowering the bike. Just thinking out loud. I do believe that the rebound/comp setting swap will still give added confidence!

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/28/2013 @ 1:38 PM *

I'll try swapping those settings. I started playing around with the suspension after the flat spot occured on 38/38. Plus I didn't like they were sliding when it was 90+ out. We have some shitty roads around here so I run the tire a little softer.

You guys have it easy! I have to try to tuck 330lbs of FAT on the BKing. Now that's a hard job. I have to get off the food someday!