A hammer and punch has no place with these bearings. I've run 198.9605 with a stock motor Busa on 87 octane regular gasoline at Loring and they definitely played a part in my opinion!!

Do you have a link for the proper tool to R&R these bearings?
Does your bike roll much easier, when just pushing
it around?

There are various bearing puller kits available through Amazon that expand into the inner race though you need to buy a kit that has the correct diameters. I usually just punch out the stock steel bearings with brass then install the new ones with a press. I use a bearing installation kit designed for tapered old style bearings flipped upside down using the flat side against the OUTER race only. They must be pressed until firmly seated so as not to put any side load on the inner races. When pressing the second bearing from the opposite side you must be careful to only press until the center inner race spacer tube is flush to both sides. Hope this helps, I can attach pictures if my explanation is a bit fuzzy. They absolutely roll easier and my first test in 2007 picked up .07 et and almost 5 mph in the 1/4 mile with a stock motor 2005 Busa. Was $400 well spent...

* Last updated by: Fordtech58 on 5/29/2026 @ 6:58 AM *

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Thans,
This is/was part of my concern; These aren't thrust
bearings as you mention, not made (particularly) for
side loads, the kits of looked at so far are not
confidence inspiring, they look like they load up
the inside of the bearing assembly,
but as I think of what I'm writing, I realize that
it doesn't matter unless I'm trying to save the
bearings I'm removing for spares or 'emergency' spares.
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I think I caught what you're saying about removal,
I've don't dirt bike bearings a few times.
When I install, whether steel or ceramic bearings
when the time comes I'll stick them in the
freezer for a couple hours first, and probably
Wd40 the hub.
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I've read that ceramics will break the 2nd time
you hit a hard bump, maybe in posts from this
thread, but others saying it's not been an issue
for them.
Good heads up on; ''easier to roll the bike around''.

With 2.5" slammers in my front forks I've hit some pretty serious return road holes with no failures. They also survived my airborne launch at last years NHRA division 4 finals at 685 lbs. total when I landed it brought the front tire squat almost to the bead!

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With 2.5" slammers in my front forks I've hit some pretty serious return road holes with no failures. They also survived my airborne launch at last years NHRA division 4 finals at 685 lbs. total when I landed it brought the front tire squat almost to the bead!

Wow, if it can take that kind of abuse, I'm sold
on ceramic.
What is the 685lb signify, is that rider and Bike combined
or just bike, I think my bike is supposed to be 684 wet,
and now with slip-ons, probably about 660lbs.

675-685 is my total weight. Various reduction and additions have the bike at 490 on the NHRA scales at the Texas Motorplex. I'm usually in the 170-175 range plus gear.

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That's pretty darned impressive weight especially considering it's turboed and has an extended swing arm. I never weighed my Gen1 but from the weights of parts removed and changed, I figure it was about 485-490 lbs with full system and Carrozzeria rims.

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675-685 is my total weight. Various reduction and additions have the bike at 490 on the NHRA scales at the Texas Motorplex. I'm usually in the 170-175 range plus gear.

Cool, thanks.