The above works but has a ABS feel to it.

KAK wrote: Bad, you're right about the tire causing the "brake wobble". You tried to help me when it started happening to my bike around 1,800 miles but I was too skeptical. I actually couldn't see any cupping so it made no sense to me that the tire could cause it. My bike shuddered at approx' 70 and went away once I slowed to about 55.
I started shopping for rotors and was kinda pissed about the whole thing. Luckily I waited long enough to wear out the tires and tried the Road Pilot 2's. Shudder gone. Man, was I relieved. I still wonder if it will come back again even with different tires. I hope not. One thing for sure is to watch the tire pressure. I don't know if low pressure promotes cupping but it's easy to let time pass and you have low pressure before you know it. I run about 39/40 psi in the Pilots. Seems like I just checked 'em a few weeks ago but I'm probably off on that. Just decided to air 'em up last night and damn...down to 32 each. Gotta check' em all the time.
Now, off topic I know but can someone explain why the rear brake is soooo weak on this bike or should I make a new topic?
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KAK you were a hard one to convince about the front tire possibly being the culprit of you're brake shudders, I remember that thread well I understood your sceptiscism tho, 1800 miles is low to have a front tire issue. I was sceptical myself at 2500 miles.....but you have to remember the 14's front brakes are ridiculously strong, and do things to a tire that most other brakes we've used wouldn't do for 3 times that mileage I was just glad I was able to help save you from wasting money on rotors you didn't need I think the 14 is going to be hard on any front tire, but more so on some brands over others. The bridgestones I've ran and read about are notorious for cupping early, but I'm sure there's plenty of good brands that will last just fine The PR 2's are excellent tires, thats whats going on my 14 next
And unfortunately cupping is just a natural part of the wear process of a front tire. There's really not a whole lot you can do to avoid it. Sometimes with some tire brands its just more noticeable as the tire wears than with others. Usually by the time you notice any weird vibes from the front tire its ready to be replaced anyways. But not always, as we found out with the 14's tire eating front brakes and stock rubber lol.

I actually couldn't see any cupping so it made no sense to me that the tire could cause it.

Never had an issue with this on the bike but my rear tires on the car are cupped from rear disalignment. I couldn't see it but the mech told me to run my hand over it and i sure could feel it. There is an obvious wear pattern of wavy bumps.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/7/2010 @ 7:58 AM *

Sport Rider I believe did a very interesting article explaining in detail why bike front tires cup. You can also search online and find tons of info on front tire cupping. Its just what the braking and ridng forces of a bike does to the front tire with mileage. Its frustrating that you can run a back tire to the wear bars and it'll still be smooth as silk on the road, but in some cases a front tire with lots of tread left will develop an irritating vibration, especially at certain speeds or under braking. On most of my bikes its never been an issue for me tho, and I've owned lots of bikes lol. On the few it has been an issue,(except for the 14) I've just ignored the occassional vibrations and worn the front out anyway. I'm not one to waste good rubber All front tires get some cupping as they wear, and if you look close enough and know what to look for you can see it (or feel it), but you won't always feel it riding the bike. Just depends on the tire brand, rubber coumpound, weight of the bike, riding style, how aggressive a front braker you are etc.

Blue, Hillbilly, lots of owners have said their rear brake felt weak. The "old" website talked about it a lot.
The day I rode it home brand new I noticed it. I was very surprised as the only bike I'd ridden the last 30 years is a '79 GS1000 and it's brake is much better. Now some of the problem could be the lever position and I did adjust it but it didn't help as much as I'd hoped.
What I thought kind of strange was when I adjusted the lever per the factory manual. From the dealer the lever was too far below the top of the footpeg. My foot had to press too far downward. The further you have to bend your foot down the harder it is to press. So I adjusted the lever height so it was where the factory said it should be. This made it so it nearly contacts the peg bracket. However, adjusting the lever correctly made another measurement wrong. I forget right now what it was (don't want to go through the manual) but if you check out the brake lever adjustment section you'll find it. I don't know how critical that other measurement is but I think the brake was weak before I adjusted anything anyways. Raising the lever helped some. Part of this could be because of the type of bike I'm used to (sitting straight up and my feet level to the ground vs leaning forward and your feet pointing more downward). But my GS1000 brake takes less pressure to slow or lock up than the 14's. I'm well aware that about 75% of braking is at the front (not 95%) and I use the front more but it still takes too much pressure to make the rear work. My pedal doesn't feel spongy at all so I doubt it has air in the system.