Links to Other Tutorials by Rook

Notes on Fairings

Well Nuts

Most of the fasteners that hold the fairings in place thread into well nuts. Well nuts are brass nuts that have a soft rubber shell around them. The way the well nut works is that the rubber compresses slightly when the screw, fairing pieces and nut draw together. The compression holds tension on the screw and this prevents the screw from comig loose. Well nuts work very well to hold the fairings and to keep the screws from coming loose. They should not be overtightened or they can crack or distort. I find that just one and a half turns past the point where the well nut starts to become compressed is tight enough.

Screws

All 4mm screws are the same length. there are 2 long 5mm screws and these go into the rear corner of the tank fairing. DO NOT tighten these screws up very much, They will cause the large well nut to expand against the thin metal of the air box and crack or perhaps break off and fall into air box. There are four medium length 5mm screws and these are the fasteners that go to the rear fairing. The rest of the 5mm screws are short in length.

Do not ever use locktight on a well nut or it may just spin inside the rubber shell instead of threading in or out.

Allen Wrenches

I suggest using allen wrenches rather than hex tool ratchet bits because I feel a ratchet will encourage over-tightening of well nuts.

Plastic Washers

Fairing fasteners have plastic washers which must be carefully removed to avoid loosing them. The only exception is the top 5mm fastener on the fuel tank cover. It has a washer/damper made of metal and rubber which remains in place on the fairing. If a plastic washer is lost, it is not too difficult to make a new one out of a milk bottle or a plastic bottle cap.

Fairings

Avoid overtightening fasteners as this could lead to cracking of fairings and /or plastic washers.

I do not recommend riding the bike partially faired. Loose fairings can flop around in the breeze and crack or fly off.

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Fairing Covers (Formans, Grills)
Tools
5mm allen wrench
4mm allen wrench
silicone spray
cotton swab

Each fairing cover is held on by 3 screws, two projections, and two tabs. The projections are cone shaped and are pressed into rubber grommets which fit into the midddle fairings. The tabs (marked T) slide into/under the bottom edge of the Fuel Tank Cover.

Projections, inner surface, left fairing cover.

Grommets, inner surface, left middle fairing.

Tabs and projections, inner surface, fairing cover.

Removal
Deinstallation is the same procedure for both the left and the right side cover.

1. With a 5mm allen wrench, remove the two large fasteners (marked 5 ) and plastic
washers. With a 4mm allen wrench, remove the small fastener (marked 4) and plastic washer.

2. Pull the projections on inside bottom edge (locations marked by a circle) out laterally.
Slide fairing cover downward to free the two tabs on top.

Reverse procedure for installation. You may use A drop of silicone spray applied to the projections and grommets with a cotton swab.

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Inner Covers (Ram Air Covers)

Tools
4mm allen wrench

Removal
1. Using a 4mm allen wrench, remove the three 4mm fasteners and plastic washers from the inner cover. The rearmost fastener screws into a solid mount whereas the other two thread into well nuts.

There is also a small nob on the top inside edge of each inner cover. The nob fits into a two pronged fork bracket. The bracket is positioned behind the analogue gage (tach or speedo) of the instrument cluster.

Nob, top inside of inner cover.

Two pronged fork bracket behind instrument cluster.

2. Lift the inner cover and carefully slide the nob laterally out of the fork. Be careful not to
twist the part. The nob has a thin neck that fits into the fork and the neck is somewhat apt to break if handled roughly. It is best to have steering pointed straight ahead when removing the ram air cover.

The procedure to install the inner covers is the reverse of removal.

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Fuel Tank Cover (Tank Fairing)
Tools
5mm allen wrench
silicone spray
cotton swab

Removal
Remove inner covers and fairing covers.

1. Use a 5mm hex tool to remove the fastener at the front center of the fuel tank cover. The metal washer and rubber damper do not come off of the fuel tank cover. There is no plastic washer on this fastener.

There are two projections on the inside of each wing of the fuel tank cover. The top projection [A] is a simple peg that slides loosely into its grommet. The bottom projection [B] is cone shaped and fits snuggly in it’s grommet.

Projections, fuel tank fairing

Grommets, fuel tank fairing

2. Pop bottom projection out of grommet. Pull tab with hole up and off of retainer.

There are two projections on the top of the fuel tank that fit into hooks under the top of the fuel tank cover.

Slots under fuel tank cover

Projections on fuel tank

3. Simultaneously pull both the left and right wings of the fuel tank cover outward so that the projections clear the grommets. Push fuel tank cover forward so that the slots are freed from the projections on the fuel tank.

Installation of the fuel tank cover is the reverse procedure of removal. It my be helpful to use a cotton swab to apply a film of silicone spray to the grommets and projections so that they slide together without binding.

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Lower Fairings (Lowers)

Tools
straight slot screwdriver
5mm allen wrench
4mm hex tool
rear stand (optional)

Place bike on a rear stand if one is available.

Removal
1. Remove the quick rivet from the chin of the lower fairings. The rivet is extracted by inserting the tip of a straight slot screwdriver into the slot in the edge of the quick rivet. Twist the screwdriver handle to pry the center button of the quick rivet so that it pops up. The quick rivet is now unlocked and may be pulled out to unfasten the left and right lower fairings from one another.

Lower fairing quick rivet unlocked

2. Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the two fasteners and plastic washers from the bottom of the lower fairing.

3. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the three fasteners and plastic washers that attach the lowers to the side fairings. It does not matter which side you remove fasteners from first. The lowers will hang in place upon hooks concealed inside the fairings.

Both the right and left lower fairings have two slots (S) along the top that hang on two hooks (H) on the bottom edge of the side fairings.

4. Detach the lower by swinging it upward so that it may be disengaged from the hooks. The left lower will not clear the ground during removal if the bike is on its side stand. Position the motorcycle vertical or place on a rear stand to remove the left lower.

Installation
Installation is the same procedure as removal but in reverse order. Make sure the quick rivet is unlocked when inserting into the holes of the overlapping pieces of the chin. Push the button of the quick rivet in to lock it. The 5mm screws in the lowers hold the lowers to the exhaust brackets inside. These fasteners come loose easily. Check them often to be sure they are not loose.

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Upper Inner Fairing

Tools
4mm hex tool
thin, hard instrument

It is not essential that this fairing be removed but doing so will make removing and reinstalling the top fairing and the side fairings much easier.

Removal
The photo shows 4 slots along the front edge of the upper inner fairing. These slots mate with projections in the bottom inside of the upper fairing. The circular hole nearest the front is the hole that the 4mm fastener and plastic washer fits in. The other two holes on the sides are where the quick rivets are inserted. There are also two small tabs at the back of the upper inner fairing. These fit over the top edge of the inner fairings.

1. Use a 4 mm hex tool to remove the fastener (marked 4mm in pic below) and plastic washer from the underside center front of the nose.

2. Use a thin hard instrument to press the center button of each quick rivet [QR]. Press the button until it snaps in. This indicates that the quick rivet is unlocked. Pull each quick rivet out after it is unlocked. The two quick rivets are difficult to see. Be careful not to mistake them for the quick rivets on the inside point of the inner fairings.

Use a thin hard instrument to press the center button of each quick rivet. A small allen wrench is a good tool to use for this.

3. Flex the back of the the upper inner fairing so that each tab may be removed.

4. Slide upper inner fairing toward the back of the bike to detach it from the lower inside edge of the upper fairing. Remove the upper inner fairing.

Installation
Installation is the reverse procedure of removal. Before reinserting the quick rivets, push the center button all the way up as shown in the pic below. When quick rivet is inserted properly, press center button down flush with outer edge of rivet to lock it.

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Middle Fairings (Side Fairings)

Remove fairing covers, inner covers, fuel tank cover, upper inner cover.

Tools
4mm allen wrench
5mm allen wrench

Removal, Right Side
1. Use 4 mm hex tool to remove the four fasteners and plastic washers from from the right side.

2. Hold the middle fairing with one hand and pull the hook up off of mounting peg.

3. Swing the middle fairing up to unhook it from the upper fairing. The fairing is now free except for the electrical connector to the front directional light.

4. Holding the middle fairing in one hand, disconnect the front flasher lead.

Removal Left Side
1. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove 3 fasteners and plastic washers from the lower edge of the upper fairing. Use a 5mm hex tool to remove the fastener from the cone shaped recess in the side fairing.

2. For the remainder of the left middle fairing removal procedure, follow steps 2, 3 & 4 of Removal, Right Side above.

The procedure for installation is the reverse procedure of removal.
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Inner Fairing
Remove fairing covers, inner covers, fuel tank cover, lowers fairings, upper inner fairing, middle fairings.

Tools
thin, hard instrument
4mm hex tool

Removal, left and right side identical
1. The inner fairing is fastened to the inside of the middle fairing. Use a thin, hard instrument to press and unlock the quick rivet at the point of the inner fairing. After the button has been pressed in, pull the quick rivet out.

2. Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two fasteners from the inner fairing.

Use a thin hard instrument to press the center button on the quick rivet. A small allen wrench is a good tool to use for this.

Installation is the reverse procedure of removal on both the left and right Inner Fairings. Insert quick rivet with the center button up. Press flat to lock the rivet in place.
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Windshield (Windscreen)

Tools
4mm allen wrench

Removal
1. Use a 4 mm allen wrench to remove the 6 fasteners and plastic washers that secure
the windshield to the upper fairing.

2. Lower the top edge of the windshield slightly and pull the windshield back and out of the upper fairing.

Installation is the reverse process of removal. To position the windshield, slide the notch on the bottom edge of windshield onto the tab in the upper fairing. The fasteners for the windshield are specced to be torqued to 3.7 inch pounds but I just turn then a half turn past where I feel the slightest resistance.
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Upper Fairing (Top Fairing, Nose, Upper Cowl)

Tools
phillips screwdriver
10mm socket

Remove windshield, inner covers, fairing covers, fuel tank cover, lower fairings, middle fairings and upper inner fairing.

1. Use a phillips screw driver to remove the screw from the wiring bracket inside the upper fairing. This bracket does not fasten the upper fairing at all but it is connected to wiring that must remain on the bike. Simply allow the bracket to hang on the wiring during deinstallation of upper faring. OR you may unlatch the catch on the plastic retainer ring to free the wires instead of removing the entire bracket.

2. Locate the electrical connectors to the head lights (marked by orange triangle pointers in the photo below). There are 3 connectors on each side of the upper fairing. The city lights (directly behind wiring bracket removed in step 1) have a black connector, The high beams are blue and the low beams are green.

C = city light, H = high beam, L = low beam.

View of inside of upper fairing, headlight connections.

All three headlight connectors are removed by pinching the tab while pulling down gently.

3. Remove grey vehicle down sensor connector under windshield by pressing the tab and pulling up. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts (marked by orange pointers) that hold the upper fairing to the frame. Pull the upper fairing forward off of ram air inlet and up to deinstall. It is convenient to grasp the crossmember that supports the upper fairing and the mirror mounts while deinstalling and handling the upper fairing.

Installation is the reverse procedure. Having the vehicle down sensor disconnected will cause the bike to show a code which prevents the bike from starting. The code will clear itself within a few seconds upon reconnecting the vehicle down sensor and switching the ignition to ON.
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Front Fender

Tools
5mm allen wrench
8mm socket

Removal
1. Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the fastener and plastic washer [A] from both sides of the front fender. Use an 8mm socket to loosen the screw [B] on each side of the front brake caliper mount. In most cases, you may leave the front fender hang on the brake lines but if you need to remove it completely, proceed.

2. Reach inside of the front fender to the retainer ring mounting clip. Carefully pulling the retainer ring, press one half of the “beak” from the inside up into the mounting hole. Both halves of the beak will fit through the hole if they are passed through one in front of the other.

Beak shaped mounting clip, retainer ring

Halves of beak must be positioned as shown to pass one behind the other through the mounting hole in the fender.

3. Allow the fender to pivot on the screws in the brake caliper mount so that the front edge of the fender rests on the tire. This will create more space to reach into the front fender to remove the horizontal retainer ring. Remove the horizontal retainer ring in the same manner described for the vertical retainer rings in step 2.

4. Remove the 8mm screw from each side of the brake caliper mount. Lift front fender and pull it out between forks. The metal sleeve with a welded nut that slides onto the front fender may slide off.

Installation
Same procedure in reverse order. I have had the 8mm screw vibrate out from use twice so I now use blue locktight when installing.

Seat Cowl (Seat Cover)

Remove Seat

Tools
phillips screwdriver

Removal
1. Place seat upside down on a soft, scratch proof surface. Remove the four black phillips screws (indicated by orange triangles in pic below) that attach the seat cowl to the underside of the seat.

Seat cowl brackets, underside of seat cowl.

2. Slide seat cowl toward the back of the seat.

Installation is the same procedures in reverse order.

Tail Piece

Tools
phillips screwdriver
silicone spray and cotton swab (optional)

1. Use a phillips screwdriver to remove the two black screws that fasten the tail piece.

2. Pull the tail piece toward the back of the motorcycle to dislodge the projection on the tail piece from the rubber grommet in the tail light.

Installation is the same procedure in reverse order. A drop of silicone spray applied with a cotton swab may be used so that the projection slides into the grommet easily.

Tail Fairings

Remove the seat and the tail piece.

Tools
thin hard instrument
4mm allen wrench
silicone spray and cotton swab (optional)

Removal

The procedures for removal are the same for both the left and the right tail fairings.

1. Unlock the quick rivet under the tail fairing by pressing the center button with a thin, hard instrument. A small allen wrench works well for this. Pull the quick rivet out of the hole.

2. Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove each of the 3 fasteners and washers (marked by triangles in pic below).

3. Clear tail fairing from undertail by pulling tail fairing up to pull rubber grommet [G] from the projection [P].

4. Hold the tail fairing in one hand while grasping the white turn signal lead harness for in the other hand. Press the small wedge shaped tine on the harness back with your thumb while pulling the connector out with your index and middle fingers.

Installation is the same procedure in reverse order. You may use a drop of silicone spray applied to the grommet and projection with cotton swab to make installation smoother. The quick rivet is inserted into the hole for installation with the center button out. Press the cennter button flush with the surface of the quick rivet to lock it.

Rear Fairing (Belly Pan, Crud Catcher)

Tools
5mm allen wrench

1. Use 5mm allen wrench to remove the 4 fasteners on the rear fairing. The four fasteners are all medium in length.

There are two 5mm fasteners and plastic washers on each side of the rear fairing. One on each side and two on the bottom front.

2. Pull the rear fairing off if stuck in place.

Installation is the same procedure in reverse order.

Fairing Pads

There are three foam pads in the fairings that are removable. As viewed from rear of the bike, the pads are positioned as shown below. C = coolant reservoir, R = Radiator hose and W = water pump.

The foam pads are shown in position on the bike in the photos below.

Coolant reservoir

Radiator hose

Water Pump, the overflow hose fits through the hole.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/4/2017 @ 11:55 PM *

Geeeeeeeez. I wish this had been posted the first time I removed my fairings. This will be EXTREMLY helpful to ALL first timers. Nowadays I have to laugh at how easy I find it to remove all the fairings and how quickly it can be done.

The only thing you didn't show, and I only mention it because I broke one of the protrusions the first time I removed it, was the battery cover. (I know it's not part of the fairings.) I do not expect you to update this masterpiece but I thought I'd mention it so others are more careful than I was when they remove the battery box cover.
Nice Posting!!!

* Last updated by: danfzx14 on 5/18/2011 @ 6:53 PM *

Thank you, Dan. I agree most of the fairings are downright mysterious when it comes to protrusions. Once you know where the protrusions are located and how they connect, you could almost break the fairings down blindfolded.

I do not expect you to update this masterpiece but I thought I'd mention it so others are more careful than I was when they remove the battery box cover.

I or someone should do a battery removal tutorial. I think I actually covered that in my PCV Underseat Install thread.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/4/2017 @ 11:56 PM *

dan you know if you buy a c/f battery cover there arent any of those protrusions even there just the bolt hole, lol

thanks for the work in all that Rook.

Well Rook as Usual Great Thread!!!
Snuffy

Another great post from the book of Rook.
I'm going to start printing out your "HOW TOs" and make a book, easier to understand than the workshop manual. Two thumbs up Rookster!!

Great post, very helpful, thanks for investing the time to create this!!!

Wonderful job Rook..really great!

I could only say...that when I removed my midfairing,there is a longish tab at the top front point that slides into the upper cowl.I believe I had to slide the midfairing back as I removed(before "folding it outwards")so that tab would not break off.(it slides in right at the very tip there).And that windshield...that tab that helps hold the tip into the uppercowl...that tab will easily break off if you don't remove/install that windshield VERY CAREFULLY.No angling...just sliding straight in.

There was only one other deal that maybe could have been mentioned...maybe it was...the tank cover...I found I needed to make sure the steel tabs(that are attached to the tank)were sitting horizontal to the tank itself.They can get bent.When reinstalling,I had to first pull out the side plastic panels as you mentioned,but at the same time,I had to make sure the "points" on the tank cover were actually sliding onto the tabs in there....Those points should be "sliding" right against the metal tank as you install.You have to angle the tank cover kinda like you're "spooning" it onto the tank itself.If the tabs are bent too low on the tank,the tab housings(inside the cover as shown)will miss the tabs...your cover will be sitting "on" the tabs instead of "in" the tabs.There will be a noticeable gap there.(just ahead of the gas cap ring).It should be sitting flush on the tank.(the pointy tips).

You also need to be VERY careful when reinstalling that upper inner fairing piece.You have to somewhat angle that piece "downward" slightly at the back as you slide the front "over" the tabs on the cowl.They WILL snap off if you try to force it straight forward.That was my experience anyway...I did indeed snap one tab off.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/26/2011 @ 3:49 PM *

This should be stickied, its a classic.

when I removed my midfairing,there is a longish tab at the top front point that slides into the upper cowl.I believe I had to slide the midfairing back as I removed(before "folding it outwards")

the steel tabs(that are attached to the tank)were sitting horizontal to the tank itself.They can get bent.

These guys here:

Ya...never tried it that way...okay...next time...I'll give er a shot that way.Thnx Rookster!

It's just one screw to get the upper inner out and the 2 quick rivets you need to take out to get the side fairings off the bike anyway. I have removed and installed the side w/o removing the upper inner but that requires some forcing of parts which I try to avoid because it make sme nervous .

BTW, blue, I believe it was you who suggested placing the the tank cover fairing on the bike before the side fairings and ram air covers and lowers. I have indicated in this tutorial that the tank cover is placed on AFTER the sides are installed. This means the tabs of the tank cover are on top of the tabs for the sides. I am quite sure that was the OEM arrangement and I have always placed the fairings in this way. For this reason, it was necessary to remove the tank cover fairing before I could get the sides off.

Now, with the steering damper, it is quite a job to remove the tank cover. I have placed it on the bike before all the others so the tank cover tabs are below the hanger tabs for the sides. I can take anything off that I want and just leave the tank cover and damper on the bike. This also makes the side fairings set more flush where they adjoin the tank cover.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/27/2011 @ 10:25 AM *

Ya...could be right there....IDK.Been a while since I did mine.Had the cover off for filter cleaning the other day,but I'm so used to fitting that stuff back together,it's kinda happens automatically.I think yes...I did slide the bracket tabs on the cover under the midfairing tabs.Ya...pretty sure.I think depending on how you have that bracket set up on there,you could probably go either way with it.It is adjustable...so...IDK.I always assumed the midfairing edge there fit smoother under the cover edge cause it has that beveled angle to it,but...I could easily be wrong.BTW...I haven't had "quick rivets" on that upper inner fairing forever.I used wellnuts instead.Allen bolt up underneath with the rubber wellnut deal on the other side of that piece.IDK...did some fairing adjustments cause that front pointy tip area has a tendency to begin to kinda drop down away from the upper cowl attachment point.Seemed easier to have a connector I could loosen and readjust whenever I noticed the fairing beginning to "open"(just a tad mind you...nothing anyone else would even see probably!)Also installed two "wood" screws(only like less than a half inch long)with the big threads into the rear of the piece and attached through the side fairing inner plastic piece...that one that has the hole on both sides there.Drilled a small entry hole in the upper inner fairing piece,(one on each side right at those tabs)and pulled the upper piece...well...up further(bowed it I should say) and then screwed those screws in there.It tightened up(pulled in) the front sides of the midfairing,closing that gap that's right there where I spoke of.Then readjusted the side mounting screws in the upper cowl/midfairing interface.Got that seam nice and tight.Works okay....

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/27/2011 @ 1:20 PM *

Thanks for the tutorial Rook, this helped a lot. But I have noticed that I am missing a Screw on my lower right fairing (the 5mm one on the right) Do you know what the length and type(M6?) of this one is? I wanted to go to the local Homedepot and get a Stainless replacment.

Off hand, I don't now the exact length of the threads but that fastener is exactly the same as all 3 of the other screws on the lower left and right. It is one of the shortest threaded screws that has the 5mm hex & large, rounded cap. Just unscrew one of the others and bring it with to HD.

Screws
All 4mm screws are the same length. there are 2 long 5mm screws and these go into the rear corner of the tank fairing. DO NOT tighten these screws up very much, They will cause the large well nut to expand against the thin metal of the air box and crack or perhaps break off and fall into air box. There are four medium length 5mm screws and these are the fasteners that go to the rear fairing. The rest of the 5mm screws are short in length.
Do not ever use locktight on a well nut or it may just spin inside the rubber shell instead of threading in or out.

You can use locktight on the extreme bottom fasteners in the lowers. They have a solid mounted bolt in the frame. Yeah, those bottom screws work out by themself if yuo have stock exhaust. Heat and vibes. No probs with my aftermarket pipe.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/31/2012 @ 10:37 AM *

Thanks for this "how to". It really made my first time easy. I knew exactly what to expect. All plastics off and back together without breaking one single thing!

Great write up, I'm guessing not much has changed to do the 2012. Is the order you have posted the order to follow to remove the whole fairing?

"I'm guessing not much has changed to do the 2012"...yes...a lot has changed...didn't mean to enter your deal here..but the layout is quite different.Just for a heads up...when you get those Ram covers removed...you'll see that screw holding the midfairing and the cowl together...DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN that screw...you WILL crack that tab...once ya do...it will not be able to hold that side area there in close enough to get a decent fit when you reinstall the Ram cover(s).Be careful with that one.I cracked mine.Went back and epoxied a piece of windscreen plastic(that had the wellnut hole already in it)to the underside of that one tab.Reinforced it...works very well now.Did both sides...just in case.If you squeeze those wellnuts too much...the tabs will crack first.BAAAAAD.

IDK why they didn't beef those tabs up a bit more...but...they didn't.Just have to use caution when tightening.Only snug....not cranked down.The fairings have to expand and contract with the engine heat....which they do.Noticeably.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/3/2012 @ 1:12 PM *

This thread helped me out so much! Thanks Rook and thanks for this forum!

Sure...yup. Glad to help and I agree, the forum is a really cool thing to be a part of. Glad Bill Gordon created the site. Thank you bg.

Got my entire fairing off. Finally after about two and a half hours, three broken tabs, and lots of cussing later.

Some of those small little fragile tabs are next to impossible to keep from snapping off,

The fairing removal on a 2012 is headache, to say the absolute least, but its the first one I've done. I imagine after you've done it a couple times as some of you guys have, you'd know exactly what to expect and what direction to pull the various pieces in without breaking any tabs. LOL

I believe the guy who made this video is a member here. Very helpful in telling you what to expect on a 2012.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Iw8JSVZ-H0

* Last updated by: ZX14MAN64 on 11/23/2012 @ 10:35 PM *

Thanks for posting ZX14MAN. What a PITA to bust tabs on your new fairings.

here is smokin's fairing tutorial for the ZX-14R you posted the link to above.

I got two of the broken tabs repaired. Feel alot better about it, now, even though when they were broken it didn't seem to make any difference.

Just curious here...HOW did you fix those broken tabs?I'd like to know just in case;)