I fully understand I bought a fire-breathing top-end oriented sportbike. However, I also believe the 14R to be the best sport-touring bike available, which is why I bought one. It just doesn't seem this engine is happy below 3K and protests when opening the throttle by vibrating and even souding different. Once the tach clears 3K it's incredible, of course. I've had Ivan re-flash it, but everything else is stock and I'm not really into the idea of making it louder.

I would like to know if there is anything that can be done though.

"Vibrating" when opening the throttle below 3K.

Sounds like possibly you MAY be in too high a gear?And don't forget...you have a bit of 'extra' weight with the factory exhaust.Don't know how much YOU weigh...but it adds up at those low rpm take offs.I think lots of 'regular guys'(like me)have watched the 14 at drag events(videos for me;) ).They launch like crazy...full on...at around 3K....probably more like 4,500...5K.AT THE DRAGS.On the street with this bike...normal throttle adding at low rpms is very different.There is a small window of rpms that seem a bit....'thin'.I think it's inherent in this BIG bike.Mine have all done it....it won't blast off till it starts up the rev range in those lower gears...however...it can be flashed to achieve VERY GOOD power at those rpms....I think the powerband most likely 'needs' to be adjusted down the range some...a flash will do this.I can most definitely spin the rear in first by punching it...by the time she hits 3.5 or 4K...she's lofting.A stock ecu mapping won't do this...if I recall correctly?Not sure if this performance ability can be achieved with a PC hooked up?Timing needs to be adjusted as well...the flash does this very nicely(if it's flashed to do that).

Don't forget...it's a BIG bike...fairly heavy...so you have to take that into account...even though the motor has PLENTY of kick.

There IS something you may want to look at that might help a bit.Get rid of the factory freeplay in the throttle.I know it sounds probably stupid...but it will help deliver power more quickly.At least give you more instant control with the fuel adding.Will that add anything to the engine performance...no.but it'll feel better for you;)

To be honest...I haven't dared to open the throttle full on in 1st(from a virtual stop)...even with KTRC on '1'.I've got all the drama I need thank you;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/25/2014 @ 9:02 AM *

Also keep in mind I live in Denver where we lose an unbelievable amount of power. I'm sure when I ride to California next summer I won't be able to keep the front wheel on the ground.

Pull your secondary plates or adjust your riding. I recommend both.

I already had it flashed though, plates are optimized no?

I'm think I adjust my riding.

My Gen 1 requires gradual opening of the throttle below 3k or else it feels like the engine is straining.

With stock gearing, you would be at least 3k rpm on the highway so I assume you want the added low end for in town. If you want to be more aggressive on the throttle at low rpm, slip the clutch. A 45 tooth rear sprocket will help too. Do the clutch and the 45T and you have a wheelie machine.

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Never had that under 3k problem.

Bottom end ain't enough for ya? This bike is already making more torque at 4k than any other bike on the market peaks at.

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Maybe the throttle mod would help, and going one up in the rear sprocket, and on down in front (so you don't get the stutter)

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You didn't mention but when you got the Ivan's reflash did you also put on a PC with his flash? I run Ivan's reflash along with a PC and his map and don't have ANY problems. I have an 18 tooth fron sprocket, weigh 245, and my bike pulls strong from pretty much anywhere in the band. Ivan's reflash will open up the flies quicker and he does NOT advise taking them out, says it runs better with them in.

If you don't have a PC get one, the motor runs much better and smoother when you have the reflash and PC working together. You also have to remember the stock exhaust cans have catalytic converters in them which choke down the exhaust, at some point you might want to consider replacing them.

* Last updated by: Rktsled on 10/25/2014 @ 2:41 PM *

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Maybe I do need a PC, will Ivan's map hurt the mileage?

There's plenty of power down there, it's just the way the engine seems unhappy until it clears 3K. Maybe the rest of the bike is so perfect it seems to stand out more.

Gearing would be my nex to last option followed by the exhaust.

Try the PC. Just might be goofy fueling down there. Just because you add a PC doesn't necessarily mean you're gonna have worse fuel milage. Unless you're riding WOT everywhere you go.

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Ya know, just my 2 cents here, which in my case is only worth about 1/2 cent but here goes. Assuming that your idle is about 1200 rpm that only leaves about 1800 rpm before your at the 3k barrier. I'm not sure that ANY internal combustion engine under a load with a direct drive isn't gonna argue with ya a little at that level. Unless it has an automatic/slip type clutch in it. I'm just thinkin out loud here but I'm not sure you aren't trying to fix something that just isn't broke. I'm truly not trying to be a smartass at all but of all the bikes I've ever ridden I don't think any of them wouldn't have argued at that low of rpm and a roll on of the throttle. Some of that may come from the rush of air and fuel to an engine that isn't ready to digest that much yet.
Again, I'm just thinkin out loud and I absolutely stand to be corrected.

Sic

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^^

Unless it has an automatic/slip type clutch in it.

I was going to say, Sounds like you might be expecting the bike to react the same way your car with automatic transmission does when you punch it at low rpm. You get the same effect with a manual transmission, by feeling how much to pull your clutch lever as you roll on the the throttle. That will instantly get the engine spinning at a good rpm to pour on the throttle. You gradually release the clutch lever as the engine spins up to the proper speed to deliver the hp under full load. Its the same principle as doing a drag launch. You can do that while you are rolling, it doesn't have to be from a dead stop. Your car is doing the same thing when you floor it, it's just modulating the slippage automatically.

When we have electric bikes, you will have full power at any rpm. Internal combustion never had that.

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Actually you will probably get better milage! A combination of the reflash and PC with Ivan's map will make your bike turbine smooth! I have delt with Ivan numerous times and he has NEVER steered me wrong, tell him what you have, where you live, and what you are after, he'll send you a custom map much better then anything you can get from the PC site and it will be tailored for YOUR specific needs. If you change something later just call him and he will send you an updated map. If you want to buy from him, and his prices are very fair, he will send you very good instructions on how to set up the PC. Fairly easy to install, took me one afternoon and an undisclosed number of beers, GREAT afternoon!!!

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Gotta downshift, bud.

It's not a 15 liter Caterpillar.

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I think you have to be fair to the 14R. If it was geared to do 150 mph you'd have all the low end you'd want. Considering it'll do about 200 mph bone stock with speed limiter removed, you really have to take into account gearing as to how it affects low end performance.

I had to think about this, because my VF1000F seemed to have as much or more really, low end. But then it's top speed was 150 mph. So it isn't surprising that usable low end of the 14R seems a little sketchy. Hell to think about it if he 14R was geared to do 150 it would probably power wheelie in 4th! Mine bone stock has almost lifted the front tires in 3rd & 4th WOT frequently.

"Mine bone stock has almost lifted the front tires in 3rd & 4th WOT frequently."...so much for MSF training,eh?

Gotta downshift, bud.
It's not a 15 liter Caterpillar.

...and that is also what your car does automatically when you put your pedal to the metal. GO FOR IT!

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"Mine bone stock has almost lifted the front tires in 3rd & 4th WOT frequently."...so much for MSF training,eh?

They didn't cover power wheelies back then.

I noticed a tendency to stutter at low rpms with regular fuel premium helped. With Akropovich exhaust that went away though mostly still likes mid grade more than regular.

If you don't want louder but more power across the board the akrapovic full system comes with a noise reducer makes it no louder than stock but makes a much better noise and runs much better. And there's the 40 or so pounds of dead weight gone too.

With reducer out it has a beautiful song it sings and its not to loud by my taste and I consider most pipes to loud. On my longer journeys I do put the reduced in because I don't always want to hear or be heard.

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I noticed a tendency to stutter at low rpms with regular fuel premium helped.

Shouldn't be running low octane fuel in a high compression motor like this. Higher octane helps ensure pre-ignition doesn't take place. Modern bikes have anti-knock sensors, when they pick up knocking normally retarding ignition timing occurs thus lowering power output.

At any rate, the last 4-5 tanks I've been using E0 91 octane (from Ag Plus) my bike is definitely loving it. Haven't heard one bit of off idle knocking since switching. E0 has more stored energy than ethanol blends too, although not sure how much a difference 10% makes (E10 which is normal). I would think it could make a small difference because it does affect mpg too. Be interesting to see if 2-6 hp (6 would represent 3%) was a difference on the dyno.

I've owned bikes that have no issue between idle and 3K. My XX and 919 comes to mind but I'm not complaining here, I know it's petty if not lame altogether to be complaining about this, but if PC will help out I'll probably get one. I'll see what Ivan has to say.

I'll agree about the gearing though, makes a lot of sense but now I'm reading issues about the bike not liking a 16 tooth sprocket.

* Last updated by: Auron on 10/26/2014 @ 11:18 AM *

I know it's petty if not lame altogether to be complaining about this

I feel a lot better about this whole thread now that you've said this. Balls often comes up regarding sportbikes. But this is what takes balls, it takes a man to say something like this. Kudos to you.

Questions to think about rhetorically
Did the bike do this prior to the flash? How many miles were on the bike before, and after flashing? Assuming yes, is that the reason you had Ivan flash done? Assuming yes or at least part, did you consult Ivan before the flash to see if it could help?

Have you talked to other 14R owners in the area, or dealership to see if they have similar experience?

I'm seeing trend with Kaw QC. They seem to really produce an inconsistent product, or dealers all maybe do some weird stuff on their own. It's seeming more and more, whether it's oil consumption, vibrations, fitment, engines blowing up with 4k miles on them, it might just be your bike.

Easy fix. Take out secondary flys. Get 1/4 turn throttle insert.
Even with any flash secondary throttle plate wont open with anything less the half throttle or more at 3k crusing at 3k. They just don't open in the rpm rang. Trust me on this.ni put over 27k in less than 18 months on my zx14 in all kinds of different street riding scenarios.
Example take off in 1st gear roll her up to 5k slowly get out of throttle. At 3k she'll feel like you down shifted. Kinda like an automatic transmission down shifting when comming to a stop..That's the secondary plates closing.
Its subtitle but you can feel it.

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Interesting...didn't know that little tidbit..thanks;)