"We are all well educated, well read and highly intelligent people".

Wolf have a question for you. In what ways have you studied communication?

I'm not going to read this whole thread but Vic, you are basing you personal experience on fact. This is not the proper way to make a conclusion. You would had to have purchased several more new 14R's at the same time, break them all in differently and then dyno test them before AND after for a valid conclusion. Your opinion is welcomed but it's really annoying to hear you speak of it as fact.

FACT...no two bikes of identical build are gonna perform exactly the same.Close perhaps...maybe unnoticeably to a rider,but NOT the same.If the question is..Vic's bike being 'broken-in 'right' to get that performance shown in that video,then We ALL must have broken ours in right.ALL these 14's will do just what Vic's bike did.ALL of em.This isn't a sign that one was better broken-in than another.Nor does it mean Vic's bike is somehow,'special'.Or that he did his break-in the 'right way'.

Poorly broken-in bikes don't display any 'bad' signs until they start to get miles on em.Later,down the road some.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/21/2015 @ 8:03 AM *

^^ six pages in, I no longer care about this topic. I will say green your video put a smile on my face. Lol

This is the greatest thread. When we starting to post inappropriate photos!

If you're talkin about 'race bike break-ins'(ride like you stole it)...that's what you'll end up with.A decrease in engine life.Those motors may very well achieve max power output in the short term.They won't stay that way for very long.

This engine makes so much power I don't think it matters how you break it in unless you do all 1000 miles on a racetrack. A Ninja 250 getting it's guts ripped out during the break-in would be very intersting to see hypothesis like I mentioned 4 posts up.

I'm curious here...this wear pattern.How does this type of wear occur?

On this bike engine,I'd be interested to know HOW this engine was broken in,when were oil changes done...that sort of thing.What TYPE of oil was used.This to me doesn't look right at all.Has it lost it's surface somehow?What could cause this?Loosened up cap bolts?Poor machining from the factory?It looks to me like it possibly got overheated somehow.But HOW?And HOW many miles on this part?This is the result of another part doing this.So was this motor factory 'solid',or was this an engine that had been 'opened up' prior to this?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/21/2015 @ 8:30 AM *

FACT...no two bikes of identical build are gonna perform exactly the same.Close perhaps...maybe unnoticeably to a rider,but NOT the same.If the question is..Vic's bike being 'broken-in 'right' to get that performance shown in that video,then We ALL must have broken ours in right.ALL these 14's will do just what Vic's bike did.ALL of em.This isn't a sign that one was better broken-in than another.Nor does it mean Vic's bike is somehow,'special'.Or that he did his break-in the 'right way'.

Poorly broken-in bikes don't display any 'bad' signs until they start to get miles on em.Later,down the road some.

Green I completely agree. Could I have a defectie shock? I don't know, part of why I talk about it is because this happening seems so odd that people won't even beleive me? My suspension sag and all that happy shit is all setup just how I want it (for cornering). Could that be it?

Keep in mind guys I haven't ridden in a long time, and jumping back into it on a 14R has blown my mind.

This kind of acceleration corrups all.

There's NOTHING wrong with your bike.As I said...these will ALL do this under the right circumstances.There's really nothing unique about this.All anyone has to do is read the section in the owner's manual.."How to ride the motorcycle"...it's right there.And I'm certainly NOT trying to dismiss any of this...not at all.I'd say...if anyone's 14R DOESN'T perform like this,they're either not trying to get it to do this,or something really IS wrong with their bike.Turn the KTRC 'off'.This won't happen with KTRC 'on'.(well,it will,but it'll be stopped electronically).

What you showed in that video is VERY common with the 14R.I myself mentioned this several months ago.I was told as well that it couldn't happen.So what?I can go out there today and make this happen at will.It's not some weird anomaly.

It simply started to loft,and broke loose.NORMAL under the right conditions.It cannot maintain a wheely when the rear is slipping...which is exactly what we see there.This is a 'repeatable' outcome if I ever saw one.In science,this would be considered,FACT.

My 2012 did this,and my 2013 does this.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/21/2015 @ 9:31 AM *

Boom!

Grn, We are talking millions of inches still squished between the parts is oil pressure flow. Those are the rub both hands together matching head is that cam side of the tower. So the cam cap or cam tower the guy is holding, the valves push down on that cam to head and opposite sides on the cam cap is the rocking action as like a see-saw tilting action.

The cam floats in a perfect circle. Look how the sides are clean because the X is the down-push and Y is no-push at the horizontal. If the cam lifters were not pushing down like it does, rather pushes in between the cam cap's horizontal line, that push would be lined and the north/south part or [vertical line] would be clean like the sides of the cap. Make sense so far?

Now that we have oil pressure in between the cam to cap, the cam is spitting out oil thru the cam itself. Lets say for argument sake the cam is a feed channel to the cam caps. This is contaminants that travel in the oil and when they dump out of the cam hole suspended in the oil, this metal to metal is a sheering process until the cam is floating off the cap as in no more spring pressure pushing on it.

You now have a constant oil push out the cam hole and this now washes the debris on the unloaded side and this unloads the galling little guy out of the cap. Look at the sides and how clean/no gall they are. Look at the new lines as they are metal sheered off like a cutting lathe and that material is added to the one single galling ball that got away from the filter and can pass thru the screen and all that micron begins to ball up like rolling a snowball up from a tiny hand packed ball it started out as. Now look at more crap suspended and [galled off cam cap material] is about to come around again.

Make sense to dump the oil hot with the suspected suspenders?

Grn. I don't try to make it happen. All I do is make a decion to play and sometimes it happens. I'm not pulling the bars back, I'm not juking the clutch or throttle.

Thanks for the input. It's a dead topic at this point. I don't know how you leap from "people don't even believe me" to "this is common". Please take a problem-solving course or something. Irrational correlations are irrational.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 3/21/2015 @ 11:07 AM *

I'm curious here...this wear pattern.How does this type of wear occur?
On this bike engine,I'd be interested to know HOW this engine was broken in,when were oil changes done...that sort of thing.What TYPE of oil was used.

Broken in /owners manual. kawasaki 10W-40 changed with filter every 2500 miles. Switched to Repsol Moto 4T at 6000 miles then went back to conventional Kawi oil. Switched to Rotella full synthetic after the worn camshaft towers were discovered at 28,000 miles and have run that ever since. Of course it ran hot in the summer a few times when brand new, I saw the coolant warning symbol once but that was after shutting down and then keying on again a minute later. Never saw it while running the motor but I did reach 6 bars at least once as I recall. Never had a coolant overflow. I thik it's just as Hub described. Something rough was running around in there. I hope it's gone now. The engine seems to run as good as ever but I'll be doing a compression test this summer for kicks. I don't mean to stir the pot here but if I had done a race break in, the oil would have been dumped several times when new. The cam tower wear may have been avoided by doing a race break in. ...possibly...no telling when it happened or if it is still hapenning. The camshaft journals looked perfect, a little wear on the tips of the cams( the finish worn away) but that is normal. The seats where the camshafts rest looked perfect as well.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/21/2015 @ 3:29 PM *

I broke a CBR600RR in very hard in 08 and put 22,000 miles on her in a little over a year. I picked up drag racing shortly after and used nitrous to pick up another 40 HP for a solid year of racing. The bike was sold with around 28,000 miles on it and the MPH never wavered on the non-nitrous passes. This is fact that the motor wasn't losing any power throughout it's hard life and nitrous usage.

I present more FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE via precision timing devices that hard break in has no ill effect.

"Grn. I don't try to make it happen"...when did I EVER say you tried to make it happen?.Quote that for us all,will ya?Your NOW post 'might' gain ya some credibility if you can just POST this one thing for us all.Or ANY of my posts on this topic saying ANYTHING even remotely referring to'This can't happen'.

"I don't know how you leap from "people don't even believe me" to "this is common". "...I'll play this time.Number one...the 'problem' is YOU feeling like people are discrediting what you said.That's the problem(read the VERY FIRST post here from 191).Not my saying"this is common".In case you can't put two and two together,I'm saying.."What you posted(video) was a common thing for this bike...so anyone NOT 'believing' this could happen just hasn't done it yet".

You're now trying to convince ME.With your explanations of what you DIDN'T do.I'm not trying to discredit you...you can't see that?

'Problem solving'...find out FIRST what the 'issue' is before ya start flamin me...get it?For a smart guy,you can sound pretty ignorant.Read the post again.Find out WHO it was that first commented about your experience.You won't solve yer 'problem' by takin a side route that steers away from the main issue.And just what IS your main issue here?Attacking ME?Not that I care...I don't.But you sound pretty immature my friend.Like 'them against me' syndrome.

You ARE fucked up aren't you.I mean...really .

And to HUB(and Rook)...thanks for the input about what I asked.Thank you.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/21/2015 @ 7:14 PM *

you're Greenie.

Wolf I have a question for you. In what ways have you studied communication?

From Green's comment perhaps some self study is advised.

I rode my 14r according to the book for 500km. Than I met a Torontonian named Beast. And then I could not deter myself from blasting it and racing him every chance given. Thus due to a lack if umpulse control I broke it in like I stole it.
So far no issues. But really I don't care as I plan to be in the engin soon making some mods.
Weeeeeee love this bike.

Mavi that's my worst nightmare buying a spaceshuttle on boost, returned to stock and sold as "mint mature driven, never raced or dropped!"

To be honest the violent break in might had been a positive for performance dynamics rather than negative. I mean they put our 14's on the dyno, rip em wide open and pack em in a crate.

Auron "this type of acceleration corrupts us all"
Ain't that the truth brotha!

They redline it at the factory but is that under any load? If not that's a world of difference.

* Last updated by: Auron on 3/22/2015 @ 11:33 AM *

Yes,it's under load.

Wolf said..."I rode my 14r according to the book for 500km"..well see?There ya are.You dodged the bullet my man!LOL.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/22/2015 @ 2:21 PM *

Greenie. Book said 1600km break in. So not bullet dodged. Rode it like I stole it after 500km.

The load may be nothing more than the inertia of a roller supported on bearings. Then again, there could be a brake attached to the roller to supply a load.