NOTE:
1. The flashings of the three segments for the water temperature gauge and fuel level gauge do not failure of the
meter unit.
Translation: You want to see the 3 segments flash where this shows no failure of the meter.
2. Currently, for the meter is disconnected from the main
harness each flashing occur.
Trans: When only the test wires are used to hot the meter, all you will see are the modes cycling and they flash to show they work.
3. The flashing of water temperature gauge is communication error to the ECU.
Trans: We chose the the water temp gauge as a dropped signal because the ECU will recognize this and send a flash at this sensor as there is a short, or open.
4. The flashing of the fuel level gauge is open or short of
the fuel reserve switch.
Trans: We will repeat 3 over again so you recognize there is a short/open/connector not on; when a flash shows the fuel bar flash on and off.
5. Normally, each flashing disappears when the meter unit
is connected to main harness.
Trans: Of course when the main harness creates a complete loop, and there are no short/open/connections at the water temp/fuel reserve/pick a sensor, then the analog turns all the lights off fandango. But since the harness is off, you are seeing the flashing because the meter is the blink box and we pin to check if all parameters are flashing/lights on, needles swing, etc.
The flashings of the three segments for the water temperature gauge and fuel level gauge do not failure of the
meter unit.
Trans: The flashing of the three segments are a test parameter and is not a sign of a failed meter.
This statement in particular has me puzzled as the three segments of my water temperature gauge are flashing but the wording is impossible to comprehend. What does "do not failure of the meter unit" mean?
'There is no failure of the meter if the segments blink as three either flash in sequence, or all together as one, it's how the pin test... tests out.
This is a bench test and the meter is disconnected from the main harness so there is no CAN communication. If I am reading this correctly, the flashing three segments I am getting denote communication error to the ECU.
Correct.
It denotes if one of my segments is working correctly, bench wise. Say the tank float is stuck and oh, I just filled it up but it's half full on the bar. My upper bars are blown out. Let me make sure. I bench the meter hot to said pin, watch my segments cycle, oh look, full bars; not blown out. YOu fucking stuck float You! See how you could read the bench that way?
But when we say CAN Com and bench segments, understand that meter goes hot at 12v, but a chip brings it down to 5v. And the hardware means IC or integrated chips. The 555 timer and that blinking tool. So the timer blinks and shuts it off. Take ground off the battery, put ground back on, and 9 pin is the read, the CAN is the segment controller. Once a sensor connector was not connected back on for a valve adjustment, it's as if the segments start flashing because they are not sending in the analog, but no signal is the same as connector not connected, wire out of connector, short is the sensor, or open is a broken wire. So no signal when key is on, on go the segments when bench tested.
How can I explain this... I can't. I'm thinking motherboard layout and when there is basically one wire in and one wire out, maybe think of a lamp and those two wires. CAM hi/CAM lo wires, right? In the middle is a jobber with some sort of resistance number. So motherboard wise, I can't see one single resistor wired to both COM lines... and then goes where? on the motherboard?
All I know is the resistance range you need to be in. 122 ~ 126 ?. So if I'm 125.77654 ? I'm faster with less resistance. 121.765 ? I am a junk meter and it's more resistance and slow or I broke out of a specific range... think. In spec = Good known part. Out of spec = Junk part.
Bottom line:
Step 1 ~ pg. 16-64 Check 1: Ohm pins 17 and 18. That's to see if the CAN and meter can turn the lights on fandango. So that's number one concern as to separate a tach signal from a speedo signal, or it's a waste of time going thru the other steps. You want COM within range and if it ohms to 124, that's right in the middle and all is well of the hi/lo switching. COM communicates as a filter so that's why pg. 1-16 has the tach in the loop.
The meter's diagram on the top left page of 16-64: Where the source [ohm] meter has no +/-, it says use either/or probe to complete a circle, a closed loop. So it says it will read the same 124 in either direction.
Check 2 ~ The second connector photo down: Look at the first thing the tach and speedo do is cycle the needles once the key is turned on. CAN passes with an ohm check, then note the default of the needles.
Third rendering down is the meter: My 12 and 10 wire is so long, I get to pin those first, lay the bike's battery on the tank, I have the (+) in 10 all hooked up to the battery. I get to tap and hold the (-) wire off the battery, and now I can watch the next move of the pin, after the needles swing is the default. Un-tap the ground off the battery... let me see that needle default again.
9-Pin on the fourth drawing down: Even though both take the same (+), 10 pin swings the needles alone, nothing else comes on. My ground tap is off 12, I pull my hot and insert it into the 9 pin.
Last drawing down of same page: Since the swing boys are hot to 10 on their own, so will they swing on the 9 pin. Switch to 9 pin and ABS and K logo are the next blown, not blown, or won't blink.
pg. 16-65: The meter drawing and the segments in letters noting who on the meter face. So it's hot/needles/K screen /abcde light up or blink in its 9-pin cycling. 10 pin only defaults the tach/speedo. Kind of make sense now somewhat?
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