Could you check your shop manual and see what the default gear position is that is reported to the ECU in the event the Gear Postion Switch goes bye-bye or there is an open in the wiring? My gear indicator is jumping from N to 6 when I'm just cruisin down the highway, should be locked in nuetral since I have a TRE. I'm thinking either the TRE is going bad (270 resistor)or theres a bad connection and either way, the thing is defaulting back to 6th gear position.

Thanks Hubster!

http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/youare

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 12/20/2010 @ 9:41 PM *

prepare yourself, Kruz.

Kruz, The book does not explain N. It will explain that the gps sensor is throwing a code if you see 6 come on. As far as N showing up, that says another wire can send N into the dash too. Again, you get no joy when you read the abstract sentences for the GPS, 'the speed sensor' is written instead of the, "gps sensor." I would assume they meant 'gps' and not chase the speed sensor as if 6 comes on when the speed sensor fails, meaning. See, the book was not too correct in the gps 'backup information section' we nitpick.

I have thrown both gps wires together you get N-which overrides 6 in the dash. Pretty strange, right? Well, not until you see j-box 3 and 4 using these two sub-ground junctions that now bleed off that N. So, we have this cam to crank signal, like the one that threw blue for a loop. That j-box loop is the killer confusion box(s). That's more what I think you'll be chasing = A phantom-J.

Mechanically, we can chase a collapsed plunger spring behind the gps and see if that sensor cam is not moving in the gps housing. I kind of doubt that, unless that N just pops up again to send a j-box phantom code that way. Remember, that cam sensor deal with blue's bike? That crank was j-boxing a code out in the the classic, phantom-style. The cam sensor ground wire was in the j-box-loop system-to-system is my guess. It gets complicated you dissect a wire harness.

Once I see they show you the gps loop, you see they use j-box3 and j-box4; which are your ground wires. So you see both those tied in, and now it can throw a loop at you with the N signaling on, then it overrides 6. What I'm saying is that if I can send N in the gps loop as I have 6 already dash'd, can we conclude it could be the gps sensor alone? I don't want to conclude a yes. I sort of see a possibly new phantom-jbox-loop going on with your bike, Kruz.

We would have to physically try two things; One is to go back to stock. Second, you pop the gps off and inspect the collapsed spring/cracked housing/any combination there of in the chase. For now, it is more hands on, no ohm meter reading values at this time. We want to see if like you said, there is either a disconnect at the tre first. We first find zero fault with the gps sensor. We want to clear both the 6 and N so N stays on, meaning, we go back to stock first. Cross your fingers both N and 6 are not shown you step down for 1st gear.

Ok Hub, I'm getting a flashing EFI light also so it is throwing a code. Pulled the code and it's a 25 e.g. failed GPS sensor or open/short in wiring. This ties in with defaulting to 6. I think I have a bad connector at the TRE, only thing in the harness I've messed with.

Correct. Your basic leads run in no set order and this is more for other eyes to follow:

1. Connector not connected: It could now run open as if not connected, but I doubt that move. I've been wrong before.
2. Wire out of connector: That could be a possibility. The connector not connected has too many wires that would still bleed a lead. Like the pc being disconnected out of the loop would need the hot side removed. Removing ground and the wires needing a ground at the injectors is that 'bleed' where we are still connected in the loop.
3. Ground: Would be missing say. Or say, the wires in a coil are wrapped onto each other but are separated by the epoxy layer in between. That says, one (input) wire is connected to a coated-wound-wire-inside the sensor. The wire coming out is an (output) wire. The other 3rd wire of the sensor is a (ground) wire.

The point is that if that one wire drops onto itself, that is considered a shorted sensor. We can look at that 3-wire sensor as a stator with the 3-yellow wires that are usually the color out of the alternator. If you see how the 3 wires never short to ground but the 3 wires run the infinity swing, showing the epoxy did not create a short onto itself as in you nicked the windings when the cover was off and you missed that tag. There goes your dead battery kind of ground problem in a sensor as well as the stator.

But say the mechanical is a broken gps housing where the wires separate or touch or are broken off inside. The electrical side or the connectors are not so mechanical but more the wires being connected for that loop not to throw the code. So, do we have a possibility of j-box-jumping both tied into the speed sensor? I did follow a few wires that run into a relay box so for now, the theory is either a broken wire somewhere in the loop before we throw parts at it.

* Last updated by: Hub on 12/21/2010 @ 11:09 AM *

I'm betting it's either an intermittent open in the TRE showing infinite resistance or Ivan's TRE connector has a defect with same result. The gear indicator display jumps back and forth between N and 6 whenever I hit a bump in the road. EFI light comes on occasionally then goes back off all by itself.

My next question is does this bother anything? How much difference is there between the neutral map and 6th map other than the neutral map has no fuel cut on lift throttle? Ivan's map is designed to piggyback onto the neutral map, I can't feel any difference in the way the bike runs when it shows the 6 so prolly not a whole lot of difference.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 12/21/2010 @ 12:14 PM *

EFI light comes on occasionally then goes back off all by itself.

Well, that sure sounds like a loose wire. See, she makes contact and runs as per. Now she is internal and 'comes on occasionally' is more a direct tre wire switching. This says the gps is good because it closes down the N code, brings the 6 back up. So, yeah, I'm going to assume the gps is good; the wiring is in question at this time, and not Ivan's deal if the 6 comes back on, right?

Is there a difference? To me, Yes. I think I made mention about reading a tail light lens. I did have the 6 present. I just turned off the N or vice verse? That meant I tested both being triggered at the same time. As I romped with the N off, I could feel the [stock] performance step up more. The 6 [I think] was all that was left to be turned off, but it was too late with the car feeling it's oats.

In that hunt, it had me thinking, "If Only." If only I could be out of any limp, it just didn't feel all there in the overall picture.

How much difference is there between the neutral map and 6th map other than the neutral map has no fuel cut on lift throttle?

Do I assume we are saying 'neutral' means base map as in bone stock? I'm going to go by memory on this and don't quote me which one does what. This is more answering your question in the generic and not the specific code and what that does. I'll say we are coding this on/off-soft/hard switching.

Base Stock Accel = 12-11:1 Ratio no/piggy.
Coded Accel = 10-11:1 Ratio w/piggy.

See how that limp runs more rich? Yeah, you think it feels all trick, but more, the pumper has a richer swing you watch the wideband.

Lift Stock = High RPM at the crank sensor. One number at the closed throttle = 18:1.
Decelerate under code = High RPM at the crank sensor. One closed throttle = 16:1.

See the hard and soft settings? The lower the number, the richer. You think you are getting some grunt which you are, but at what cost she signs off you 1/4 mile one and see.