Is there any difference between 2006 and 2012+ tensioner? I think mine is from 2012+

Could that be my rattling problem?

The first gen tensioners had these wire rings that would not hold the ratchet steady. The hole for this year was just a round hole and two screw points. Latest design has the hole, but they cut the opening wider at the one side. This is the oil channel that loads the tensioner. This second design seemed to work better having no failures in other words.

I'd remove the lower right crank cover. With the correct wrench, [not a socket], move the wrench in a CCW direction first. But when you do, you are just ever so slightly feeling for slack at the chain. Then move the wrench CW. Again, you want to move the crank's slack, taking up the slack before the cams at the top.

This says the ratchet is not holding the slipper out. By moving CCW first, you are pushing the slipper up against the tensioner's ratcheted shaft. maybe say 20° worth of movement before the cams move is your rattle.