... Is there a way to delete that feature which
disables the engagement of 2nd gear from neutral at
a stop?
Is disabling it an optional feature of a typical ECU Flash?

I'll bet you dollars to donuts the positive Neutral feature is 100% mechanical. It's been around since long before computer technology came into the hands of ordinary citizens.

Yep.

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=how+does+positive+neutral+finder+work&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:d3f6f01c,vid:YcRdvzc3I-w,st:66

I'm sure there's a way but it's going to be a lot more complicated than making selections with a flash.

Thanks,
Someone somewhere said something about removing
1 of 3 + - bearings in the watcha macall it...thing....
Another one of those;
'above my pay grade' projects.

I have no clue why someone would want to disable 2nd gear's no shift. When in 1st gear, just go to second which shifts to N every time. It's so convenient that way.

To go to 2nd with a dead engine, just spin the rear wheel fast enough to throw the balls centrifugally to the other side then shift quick to 2nd.

Changing a tooth will make the bike stumble a bit (taking off from a stop) thinking the rear wheel moved faster than the front and triggers the anti-spin momentarily.

The nut size is where the bend over tab is on another flat of that nut. Spin the wheel so you can see if another flat of the nut is tabbed over.

I have no clue why someone would want to disable 2nd gear's no shift. When in 1st gear, just go to second which shifts to N every time. It's so convenient that way.

Why would you want to disable the positive Neutral finder? If you're parked in first gear, just click up and you'll shift to N.

To go to 2nd with a dead engine, just spin the rear wheel fast enough to throw the balls centrifugally to the other side then shift quick to 2nd.

Changing a tooth will make the bike stumble a bit (taking off from a stop) thinking the rear wheel moved faster than the front and triggers the anti-spin momentarily.

The nut size is where the bend over tab is on another flat of that nut. Spin the wheel so you can see if another flat of the nut is tabbed over.

I really miss the old days of interpreting Hubbish for the ZX-14 community.

There should be no problem shifting from 1 to 2 without hitting N while you are riding. The only time this happens is when your oil change is overdue. ...or maybe if you make a really weak upshift.

I have (under Hub's tutelage) shut my bike down in sixth gear for winter storage. Come spring, it was possible to shift it back down to N for the startup. It just takes some rolling back and forth. As for riding the bike, I don't see a reason to disable the positive N finder feature. Like I said, you'll click to second every time unless your oil is dirty and then you darn well know it's high time you changed your oil.

Right Rook, I hear yea.
The issue is not being able to shift
from 1 to 2, it's from being able to shift
from neutral to 2nd, as in sitting at a long signal
for example,
and wanting to start out in 2nd, not 1st.
The positive neutral feature won't let us
do that.

Oh, I get it now. That's right you want to take off in 2nd gear because 1st is too short for you. Yeah, I can see how that would be a pain to have to roll the bike back and forth to get it in the gear you want to start in. (If you're careful, you could just never go lower than second gear while riding and park in second gear. That would solve it. That would be a pain too though.

This desire to start in second gear conflicts with the desire you expressed about having more lugging power via sprocket gearing. ...unless you'd just rather have 5 gears instead of six.

The answer is yes. There are 3 steel balls in slots in the transmission output shaft, remove those and the neutral finder is gone. Sounds simple but you have to pull the transmission out of the cases to do it.

C14, Thanks....

Yep the steel balls, I've read about them.
--
I wonder why Kawasaki decided it was
necessary to lock out 2nd from neutral.
I haven't had trouble getting into neutral
with any of my other past and or present bikes.

I haven't had trouble getting into neutral
with any of my other past and or present bikes.

It was difficult to hit N with my old Yamaha DT-100. That was my first bike and the PNF Kawasakis had seemed like they would be a real asset. All four of the Kawasakis I've ridden (sport bikes and cruisers) had the PNF so it's not possible to comment on how the transmission operates without it. True though, no problem clicking into N on my Hayabusa. You just have to be a little more gentle than shifting between 1 and 2.

The only drawback of the PNF is putting the bike in a higher gear when parked. I only need to do that once in a blue moon. It's still possible though. I'm pretty sure my Hayabusa requires a little rolling back and forth to get it to shift through the gears at a stop too. I understand though, you want to use 2nd as your starting gear. However, if you're still looking to increase that ultra low end lugging power with sprocket gearing, you're going the wrong direction by eliminating the use of first gear.

The DT100 must have been a lot of fun.
My current dirt bike is hard to get into neutral
when warmed up, until I re adjust the cable. lol
---
I watched my buddies set tractor tire beads that way,
with lighter fluid, or similar fuel , I don't have
the cojones to go that route.
---
I ordered some Delkevic slip ons, that is going to
help out with the throttle dropouts, I can get
around the easier if I can hear whats going on
with the engine.
--
The bike is faster than anything I've seen out here,
I think it still would pretty much be with 1/2
the power. :smi
--
I'm figuring on going -1 in front and +1 in back,
supposedly that will eliminate any associated issues
with the ecu, but going only 1 tooth in either direction
from what I see.
---
Aside from 'spirited' riding , I do parking lots drills
every morning, to get lock to lock or very close to it
1st gear is too much speed if not feathering the clutch
and or using back brake.
I'm guessing I could ride that clutch all day at these
low 8 to 9 mph speeds, but I'd prefer not to wear on
it at all and save it for when and if I start to try
bringing the front up.
If I can get that gearing down just a tad, I should
have even better torque for slow speed stuff now,
and with rarely needing to rely on anything but
good balance, just hover over that back brake.
I'm also thinking that the gear change will make
2nd an excellent choice for starting out, then I've
got a 5 speed where I don't need to be going 160 ,
until I eventually try some track-days, but that's
a ways off, and I Think this combo will be pretty
easy to change back and forth or just back if
I don't like what I find.

Do you find your Hayabusa vs ZX14
extremely similar when switching back and forth, or
do you have to make serious conscious changes?
--
Do you have the zx14 and the zx14r or just busa and
zx14?

I'm figuring on going -1 in front and +1 in back,
supposedly that will eliminate any associated issues
with the ecu, but going only 1 tooth in either direction
from what I see.

I'm guessing I could ride that clutch all day at these
low 8 to 9 mph speeds, but I'd prefer not to wear on
it at all and save it for when and if I start to try
bringing the front up.

You don't need the clutch for that. Sit up straight, run the bike up to about 4 or five thousand rpm in first gear, cut the throttle for a half second and then tear it wide open. It will come up. It probably depends on your exhaust and your gearing too. I had a full system on my Gen1 and a 45T rear sprocket. It actually worked fine with the stock 41T. If you do clutch wheelies, that's where you might loop it. I missed a shift from second to third on my Gen1. The transmission stuck in false neutral briefly revving to redline and then slammed back to second. The bike stood straight up on it's rear wheel. High wheelies aren't my thing. That scared the crap out me. I was doing about 80 mph looking straight up at the sky. It landed nice and soft after I rolled back on the throttle. I did a lot of lower wheelies on that bike and almost all had gentle landings. A couple felt just a little harsh.

If it follows in the characteristics of the Gen1, -1/+1 won't transform second gear into a first. You'll take off fine with slipping the clutch a little. +4 on the rear of my Gen1 was roughly equal to half a gear lower. It's not night and day but it is morning and noon.

I'll suggest some track training courses. You'll still go fast as hell. I never did that but the way I see it, it's track time with extra attention from the pro riders.

Do you find your Hayabusa vs ZX14
extremely similar when switching back and forth, or
do you have to make serious conscious changes?

I guess the Gen1 ZX-14 and the Gen2 Hayabusa are pretty similar as far as speed and comfort. The busa wheelies easier but you still have to try. The Gen2 busa surpassed the Gen1 ZX-14 in fit and finish and some of the parts on the 14 looked a little cheap compared to the Hayabusa. The shift pedal for instance, the ZX-14 just has a bent strap of steel. It works but the busa has a cast part with a heim joint. There's probably an advantage to the 14 having the shift pedal bolted directly to the shift shaft. That's how I'd describe my 14 compared to my Hayabusa in general, the 14 is raw and purposeful, the Hayabusa is more refined, smoother and prettier. The Hayabusa engine sounds more balanced, the 14 sounds more aggressive. The 14 loves to crackle and pop on deceleration, the Hayabusa just groans down to a slower speed. The Hayabusa is more finessed, the 14 just goes in and gets it done. The Gen2 14R came a long way in matching the refinements of the Hayabusa. The Gen3 Hayabusa upped the aunty in the refinements department but they through the baby out with the bath water in the performance department making it slower than the Gen2 Hayabusa. Good engine though, if you want to do some work on it to get it faster. It's totally subjective but IMO, Suzuki has put a lot of work into ensuring all Gens of Hayabusa are visually appealing and they have successfully come up with amazing paint schemes. Kawasaki did a great job sculpting the appearance of the 14R. The Gen1 is a little lacking in artistry. Kawasaki has never invested the time to make a jaw dropping, unique paint scheme for the ZX-14. It might be argued that ZX-14 owners of many models have more opportunity to create something unique with the bike because the factory paint scheme is so dull. Some of the Hayabusas like my black and orange 08 and the black and orange 2021 are so beautiful, you don't want to vary much from the orinal design. The 2026 I'd like to own is another example.

Both bikes seem to have borrowed from each other. The 14R has more elaborate and sculpted fairings, a virtual copy of the Gen2 Hayabusa mufflers and few other details previous Hayabusas have had that the Gen1 ZX14 lacked. Although more subtle, Suzuki came up with there own fins in the side fairings the 14 always had. The Hayabusa whooped the 14 with electronics even though the Gen2 14R is a vast improvement over the Gen1. Unfortunately, they allowed Kawasaki to crush them in the place it matters most, power. That's why I finally bought the Gen2 ZX-14. I'm ok if I don't get that new Gen3 Hayabusa. I wouldn't trade my ZX-14R for one. I'd have bought the Gen3 Hayabusa with 100% confidence if they managed to top the 14R in performance.

Do you have the zx14 and the zx14r or just busa and
zx14?

I bought a 2008 ZX-14 in 2008 and a 2008 Hayabusa in 2009. I crashed the ZX-14 in 2022 but I still have the wreckage. I bought a Gen2 ZX-14R in 2024. I'm passively working on a deal to buy a 2026 Hayabusa. If I don't get it, that's ok. I need a Gen 1 ZX-14 to replace the wrecked one. So I own three bikes now, one is a wreck.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/12/2025 @ 4:05 PM *

Stock gearing on the Gen 2 is 17-42. Last year I went 17-44 and the bike stuttered and jumped so bad from 3,000 rpm's to about 5,000 rpm's it was almost unrideable. The perfect combination is 16-43, -1 upfront and +1 on back. No stuttering whatsoever and the shifting was actually smoother. The acceleration was also awesome. Ask my friend with his Gen 3 Busa. 3rd gear roll on race (we usually race from 2nd gear at 40 mph when roll on racing. We went to 3rd gear because it was kind of cool outside and the highway blacktop was kind of cold. When we both hit it, my rear tire spun so fast the bike hit the rev limiter. That's why we went to 3rd) - I was so far ahead of him I thought he had let off. When we stopped he told me it wasn't a race, it was a slaughter.
16 tooth countershaft sprocket and 43 tooth rear sprocket = perfect combination.

* Last updated by: mokaw on 11/12/2025 @ 4:42 PM *

Thanks, mokaw. Was that you that posted about this a year back?

Should be no problem with the stock chain length.

Hi Rook. Yeah it was me. I had to edit the post and add something.
Stock chain works just fine with this combination.

mokaw, what if I go with a simple 45T and stick with the 17T front? You think that would work on my Gen2 or is it strictly -1/+1.

Great points Rook,
As far as my -1 +1 'planned' change, I'm just looking to
be less abusive on the clutch taking off in 2nd than
I would be with stock gearing. You just posed a question
to modaw about just 45 rear for you, I'd like considering that
myself to avoid having to mess with the front
sprocket, but then I/we'd both probably have to add a
couple of chain links, right?
What have you found best for wind protection?
I replaced my oem screen with a zero gravity sport/touring
screen, it works well but ruins the look of my bike,
have you tried the Corsa,or.....anything markedly better
than oem screen that still has a great look to it, like
the double bubble stuff or like I mention, the Corsa?

Mokaw,
Cool , thanks, that's what I intend on using, -1 +1.
I've read that just -1 in front, alone, will confuse
the ECU, and you confirm that issue, I'll avoid
that mistake.

Rook, I had a 45t on for a while a couple of years ago. I would get a little stutter on takeoff but not enough to be concerned about. I also had to get a longer chain. I couldn't get the stock chain over the 45t sprocket even when the tire was hitting the front of the swingarm.
It's kind of weird, but the 45t just doesn't seem to have the same feeling, as far as concerning acceleration, as the 16-43. Lee Pritchard ran his best 1/4 mile times on his stock motored 2012 ZX-14R with 16-43 gearing. 8.42 @ 164 mph.
I personally think it's the best gearing for this bike.