Drag, what did you use to hold your bike up while you were reworking your front forks? I need to get my 10R up in the air and set the steering head bearing torque and am looking for a good jack that will lift it without damage. Some of the guys are using a block of wood and a floor jack under the header but that's way too crude by my standards.

Kawi makes a scissor jack specific to the ZX line, I think it will work on my 6R, 10R and 14 but best price I could find on one was around $238 online.

Here's the 10R jack, not sure what it jacks against on the bottom of the bike, those pins must go into something down there. Is this the same jack specified for the 14, Kawasaki P/N is 57001-1238? I think rook was saying the jack is the same for all of the ZX line.

Hey Kruz, I had a mechanic do the job but I have this. It gets a little bit in the way when you're changing a front tire but still works great. It should be great for forks work and if you get the pins it should work with all your bike, except the cruiser of course lol. I think Rook has one too.

Hi Drag, I have that one as well but unfortunately it won't unload the triple clamp as all of the weight is still on the stem. I'm going to order the Kawasaki scissor jack so I can set the steering head bearings on all the bikes. I'm pretty sure that jack will work on any Kawasaki sport bike ...thanks!

If anyone has a copy of the 14 manual, can you check to see if that P/N is the recommended jack?

Thanks!

The hard copy shop manual I have for a 2006 has the same part number as your showing.Can't think they be different for the years.I've used this manual for everything for my 09.Bought it on e-bay for $25 I believe.Better then the $75 at the local shop.
Craig

How about the manual here...???

I'm pretty sure that jack will work on any Kawasaki sport bike ...thanks!

Same P/N for the 6R, 14 and 10R, apparently it comes with adapters and it looks like the vertical portion can slide horizontally in the C channel for width adjustment. But what does it push against, that's the million dollar question?

I checked over on ZX10R.net and no one has ever seen one. Looks like something a Kawi dealer might have. Pricey!

I'm looking at the bottom of my bike and there's the headers, oil pan and foot peg brackets. I'm guessing you take the pegs off? Otherwise I don't have a clue. What are those pins for? I don't want to order this thing until I can figure out how it works. I'm going to check the service manual again, maybe something in there.

Nothing in the manual on how to use the jack, it just says to use the jack and a specific adapter and lift the bike. I think I may custom design something that will lift my bike or just take it up to work and use an engine hoist and a strap under the frame neck.

Maybe go with a Heindle center lift?All the mechs I've seen lift the bike from underneath at the header collection area.They block the rear(with a clamp)....and jack from under the header....carefully....gently.With a wideish 'foot' on the jack.Mine's never had any problem doing it that way....no header damage or bolts tweaking?I thought it was a tad scarey...at first...but he knows what he's doing.The rear clamping with his 'clamp' secures the bike very well from tipping.A ten should be somewhat easier.

"Nothing in the manual on how to use the jack"...appropriately left out...hmmm...wonder why?LOL!!!,

I googled the scissor lift jack...the one you showed there.For lifting the front wheel off the ground.No one seems to be able to explain how and where to put it under there.I would say...get a block of wood..measure the surface it'll be sitting against under there...cut it to size....drill two holes where the pins come up(after you've situated it how you want it under there)and go for it?Just make sure your bike CANNOT move forward or backwards...that would be a disaster!Maybe put er in gear and chock the rear wheel?The iffy part is will the bike fall to either side?...you want to be very careful with that!I was able to raise my bike using a floor jack and wood buffer under the oil pan...HOWEVER...I stopped the lift when the bike began to show signs of leaning.NOT GOOD!It had a rear stand as well...that in itself will not save a falling bike.If you had one of those "condor" clamps or something...to place the rear wheel into...that would be very good...they can be bolted into the floor.Or....used as is...they have a very wide foot on em.You'd need something to stop it from moving however if it was just sitting on the floor while putting your bike into it.Maybe back it into a wall or something?

With all the fall over possibilities with these bikes being supported by a scissorjack...I personally would get the clamp deal if I intended to actually do any turning with force on any parts with it up on that small deal.All the shops I've seen have a wheel clamp to hold the bike upright,just in case.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/12/2012 @ 11:45 AM *

Not much information available on this jack on the Internet except it is one size fits all. Weird that the service manuals recommend this jack but zero instructions on how to use it! With the appropriate adapter set it will fit just about any Kawasaki sportbike, cruiser or dirtbike. Each frame Kawi builds has some sort of tab down below to accept the adapter. I'm afraid if I order it I won't get the correct adapter. I think it's a stable jack design, wide base footprint and it looks heavy duty. I've talked to several guys who have used a woodblock and a floor jack on the header or oil pan. I just don't feel real comfortable doing that and will spend the $250 on this thing if it will work and safely.

Man what a jacked up mess...pardon the pun! I am in full rant mode now, there is no universal system to jack up a sport bikes to remove the suspension. I just want to get the front end off the ground to adjust my steering head bearings for Pete's sake. A standard head lift will not work as it loads the steering bearings through the triple tree stem.

There are dozens of hydraulic and scissor jack contraptions available to work on cruisers. With their high mounted pipes and tubular frame, even a two by four and an automotive floor jack across the bottom will safely lift a cruiser but for sportbikes...... nada... zippo... nothing.

The best I can find... and believe me I've looked.... is a wood block and a floor jack under the headers or hang the neck of the bike from a ratchet strap strung from a convenient rafter in your garage. Sorry but jacking against my header is not an option for me and I have no exposed rafters.

Apparently, no two sport bikes are going to be the same, everyone has gone to a monospar frame carrying the engine as a semi-stressed member and the headers are in the way so you can't jack against the oil pan.

I'm now stuck buying this $240 Kawasaki jack that will fit all three of my Kawi sportbikes but you have to purchase the adapters for each bike at $120 a pop.

What is amazing is even the service manual for my bikes tells you to use the jack but does not give the jack point locations on the bike. That is pure B.S., every automobile owners manual I've ever owned denotes clearly the location of the jack points built into the frame and how to use the factory supplied jack. It's a legal liability issue.

For KMC to ommit this information on such a critical task seems to be asking for trouble.

OK, rant off!

What about that Heindle?They work just like a centerstand(almost)...you would be able to rock the bike back and raise the front wheel...that would work...and the risk of falling or something would be virtually zero.If you buy those adapters at 120 ea...two...there's 240...the jack is what...2 something?...the Heindle(there's others as well...good ones that work)is most likely cheaper than that combo.Safer as well.You could do your wrenching with the wheel(frt) on the ground..then rock the bike back,and do what you needed to do with the front...check play,bearing performance...handlebar movement...anything.I have that pitbull front stand..it works great...HOWEVER...turning the bars in it is not (probably)recommended...so I don't(only a teensy bit to get to the axle sides.It would never work for bearing checking.Good for wheel removal though.

Would this work for you? -bg

That one won't BG...it holds the steering stem with a pin.He needs something to unload the frontend....something that'll lift the frame.

That Heindl pivot stand...249 dollars...that's what he needs.He can toss all his other stands if he gets that one.Hell...I might get one....lookin really nice and safe.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/13/2012 @ 1:43 PM *

Where do you get a Heindl? U.S Kawasaki doesn't even know how this jacked up jack works, they sell it but don't even know how to use it or what adapters come with it. What the heck, this is one jacked service manual, very spotty. I'll take a peak at the Heindl.

The Heindl is the same price as the Kawi stand but pivots off the rear swing arm bolts. You still need to jack the front engine case or headers to get the front end up, see photo. Looks like they used an automotive floor jack under the headers to get the front up.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 8/13/2012 @ 8:16 PM *

I'm running out of ideas, local dealer uses a floor jack and wood block under the headers so if you took it to them to adjust your head bearings that's what they would use.

I smell a business opportunity to build and market a sportbike jack, there is no real competition.

OK, bright idea, KHI must engineer a lift tab into each frame they manufacture to accept their jack adapters. Simply pull fairings, locate the lift tabs and use two bottle jacks or two scissor jacks under those tabs. Jack slowly and evenly, might work. Two ton jacks at Wally World are like 10 bucks each.

Maybe THIS ONE could work in all your bikes, and is only $60.00.

Kofla

NINJA ZX-14 MotoVlog

BG, I already have the T-Rex head lift stand just like the Pitbull. As Grn stated, no bueno as you can't turn the handlebars on those type stands to check bearing play.

This might be a dumb idea but what about torquing the headset bearings with the bikes weight on it and just skip raising the bike altogether since this is turning into a monster headache? I know my 10R headset id loose cause it pops under braking load and the front end vibrates at high speed. This is a common issue with all 10s. Thanks KHI, the bike has only 2500 miles and is 30 days out of warranty.

I'm thinking tighten the adjusting ring maybe 1/16 of a turn, tighten the lock ring and put the upper triple clamp back on and torque that top nut to spec and go ride. If I get it too tight, the worst thing that will happen is hard steering at low speed, kind of like over tightening your steering damper, same effect.

You know Kofla, that just might work. It says the jack comes with different adapters, I'd be willing to bet one of them would work and if not, I could always use it on my VTX as it has frame rails cradling the engine. For $59 it might be worth a try.

"local dealer uses a floor jack and wood block under the headers"...ya...that's what my guy does...except he clamps the rear wheel in a chock.That Hiendl/floor jack combo....there ya go!That's what I'd be using...and still might get.