2017 ZX14R Busa Comparison

* Last updated by: yannih on 8/12/2016 @ 10:06 PM *

They complained about the ZX14R requiring a heavier hand in corners and I found that to be true until I adjusted the rebound and compression damping. These bikes require a properly setup suspension because from the factory they are set for an entirely different kind of riding.

Watched hat video last night.

Can't speak for the Gen2 which many claim handles nicer than the Gen1. I've been sheepishly mentioning that my busa outhandles my Gen1 14 for 6 years. Hate to dis my 14 but that is the honest truth. The 14's steering feels like it wants to point straight ahead and I notice that at times when I am in a corner. It feels like I'm a reasonable amount of force for something as simple as turning the steering while moving. The busa is a lot easier by contrast. I won't say effortless but smooth and agile v stiff. I accept that's one of the downsides to riding the Gen1. It's not something I find real objectionable but once I ride the busa, wow how nice to not have that tightnesss in my forarms when I'm in a corner. Going to the 200 tire made a huge improvement. Maybe the busa's rake is steeper.

As to the power, no surprise. The 14 is faster. The 0-60 and 0-100 kph don't sound like a huge dif for ordinary riding. I believe the busa is still holding it's own in racing though. Even so, it's going to have to upgrade soon or suffer in sales.

Maybe the busa's rake is steeper.

It's not.
Busa:
Rake/Trail 24.2°, 3.8 in
Wheelbase 58.5 in
ZX14R:
Rake/Trail 23.0°/3.7 in
Wheelbase 58.3 in

These are the measurements that matter when determining handling characteristics. The ZX14(R) is better built for turning if you properly set the suspension for doing that because from the factory it is setup to go straight.

* Last updated by: Fantastic on 8/13/2016 @ 8:42 AM *

I haven't touched one suspension setting on my '13, and I find it to handle and turn quite easily. I rode all thru the Tail of the Dragon, Blue Ridge Parkway, Cherohala Skyway etc etc and was never worn out from effort. Sore butt? Yeah sometimes. But I was never tired from turning. If I wanna go right, I push gently on the right grip and into the turn she goes ...

I actually feel as though the ZX handles like a heavier version of my '94 and '96 CBR900RR's. Not kidding.

Caveat, I'm no expert racer. I have however owned about 10 bikes since 1978, some dirt and street.

I've never ridden a Busa so I can't say for sure. I definitely agree there's something their missing, I don't think 14R is the gap is as large as they make it sound for cornering. Might even just be the tires they have on it. Mine came with M5s (not sure if they still do) and they also came with S 20s. I had S20 Evos and didn't like them at all , muddy feeling really lacked feedback.

agree with fantastic, any article that complains about the turn in on a stock zx14r just needs to move the clickers a bit. I makes a huge difference.

After 60,000 some miles on a Busa with modified suspension, (stiffer springs for the front and shorter dog bones to raise the rear end) I traded the Busa for a ZX-14R. I ran the same 190-55 tires on both bikes.

My bike has an LSL bar conversion, which gives me a lot more leverage when forcing the bike through the tight stuff. The ZX seems to handle better than my old Busa, with the added benefit of a better ride on rough roads. I think the wider handlebars make it much easier to ride quickly.

Question here from one of the 14R novices, i find my steering heavy to the point of occasionally losing confidence in the bike in tight corners and would love to sort that out. I'm going to put some extra turns in on the preload, but what is everyone doing regards compression and rebound? Granted no one set of adjustments suits everyone, but a few pointers would certainly help me out. Weight wise i'm in the 220 pound range if that makes any difference...

Thanks

OD

1. Tire pressure = 42psi to start.
2. Tire wear = At a certain angle looking at the front tire, look for; Steps or ridges that fall away and leave a peak. The tire has a scoop of tire taken from it, so it has a dip, tire is plain looking on the surface, then seeing that angle, you can see more dips or shallow scoops that were peeled out... totally different than steps... call this cupping. So bottom line, junk tire, scary feedback.
3. Sag = Do the work. Look it up. Having you sit on the bike, makes someone else be the constant numbers reader. If say we had your mark you picked on the sag is one fork, s/he on the other fork and their number = Not consistent at both sides.
4. Tires = Only a fool would toss the bike into a turn with new rear and a worn front. So the mantra is new front and rear when the rear wears out. Those cups and steps are there forming and you may not see it yet.
5. Rebound = This is more thinking the bike takes a bump, the shocks move up and hang there. So speed wise, the old gopro at the front wheel, hammer the corners and watch for daylight under the wheel, now you set rebound so it moves faster back down on the ground.
6. Compression = This would be a head bang on the tank you hit a bump. The whole bike comes off the ground and meets your head, no time to react.
7. Click settings = The one approach is to run all the settings out so it pogo-sticks. Then work the numbers in. The book approach is positioned at the center and work your way in or out from there.

Personally, I like a soft setting. Infrastructure buckles at certain areas and I do not want the shock up my body. Handling wise, it stays planted where I want it to go.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/16/2016 @ 7:33 AM *

OldDog - How many miles on your front tire? Like Hub says, if the shoulders of the tire look a little flat-ish ... in other words the tire no longer looks perfectly round when looking at it from the front of the bike ... then the bike's handling will be less than optimum. New tires can completely transform a bike's handling.

Unless somebody's been fiddlin' with your suspension's settings, I'd bet your problem is mostly tire related.

Thanks for the advice Hub and Extrapolator. Yer right on the money.

Tires are not what they once were, the rear has about 5000km's on it and has a wide flat spot from riding long straight roads, i kinda knew this was there and had accounted for its affect on handling (as best you can) I've had a few big bore bikes that had the same issu. What i didn't account for and never would have considered it is the flat spot of the front tire. Kinda explains a bit doesn't it? Add to that i did the sag on the rear and its out so i need to adjust the preload a bit, i ride with luggage a lot and thats probably making it worse. Thanks for the advice. Ok now i'll stop threadjacking :)

How much do you weigh with normal gear when sitting on the bike including any tank bags etc? I can give you some suspension settings that will get you close. Been working on it a while and I think I have it to the point where you might only need 1 click one way or another to make it perfect. Also is the bike stock or do you have an aftermarket exhaust? Looking for major weight differences from stock. Any extended swingarms, etc etc.

* Last updated by: darkarcher on 8/18/2016 @ 7:10 AM *

4. Tires = Only a fool would toss the bike into a turn with new rear and a worn front. So the mantra is new front and rear when the rear wears out. Those cups and steps are there forming and you may not see it yet.

Oh. I'm schooled again. Thanks Hub!

It is amazing how over time a bike starts to handle worse and worse as the tires wear out, and it happens slow enough that I myself don't realize it. Mine went from being a nice, relatively cushy ride, tracking straight down the road, and leaning into turns with very little effort on the bars when the tires were new ... to worn out tires giving a harsh, rigid ride requiring high effort to make the bike lean into turns, and in turns the front end feels skittish like it might wash out from under me at any moment.

I got caught in light rain and wet roads in the very tight curvy NC mountain roads with my original tires worn out ... the day I noticed the belt was wearing thru on the rear tire ... and it was absolutely no fun at all riding those wet curves for an hour to the nearest bike shop that had the new Pilot Road 4 GT tires I wanted. But man once they put those tires on the bike rode like a dream again. Simply amazing what a difference new tires can make.

In the video, he states that the 2017 ZX-14R has 220 horsepower. Is that correct or did he make a mistake?

220 horsepower

At the crank it will be close to that but the wheels is closer to 193.

At the crank it will be close to that but the wheels is closer to 193.

Thanks Fantastic, I have never heard anyone talk about crank horsepower when referring to the 14R (but it makes perfect sense) and I was wondering if the 2017 model had gotten a horsepower boost. It's nice to know that my 14R is not out-dated yet...

* Last updated by: skewedTotheLeft on 8/25/2016 @ 4:11 PM *