$8.25 for 10 of them shipped if you need them The website has been messed up today so might take a while

Here

* Last updated by: carabuser on 9/30/2012 @ 1:15 PM *

Question, are the 14 R washers plastic or what?? I never replaced that washer as it never leaked on my ZX10,

* Last updated by: 06blackpearl on 10/2/2012 @ 8:53 AM *

After a wall, since they are crushed some each time, the washers wear out.

I got a bag from Murph a long time ago, and have no opened the bag yet. But when I need one, it will be in my tool chest.

"After a wall, since they are crushed some each time, the washers wear out."

Depends on the type of washer. On the ZX14R/ZZR1400 they appear to be solid aluminium, like my old R1, and I never changed the washer on that in 7 years & 24k miles without problems. The seal is made by the mating of the smooth surfaces. 'Crush' washers are usually hollow or swaged over so that there is something to deform and create the seal. You will NEVER crush or wear out a flat smooth alloy washer, you'd strip the thread in the sump long before this happened. JMO

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 10/2/2012 @ 11:47 AM *

+1

Also, if you try to put the drain plug in without the washer, you will probably strip the pan.

This I know through the school of hard knocks.

I order most of my parts from either Ron Ayers or PaylessPowersports. Their prices are very close but Payless gives free shipping on orders over $100. Three filters, 3 drain plug washers, a air filter and a gallon of synthetic Kawi oil ships free. Their website is very hard to navigate though.

I always buy a new drain plug washer with each oil filter that I purchase. They're $.49 and it would be foolish not to change it every time when I change the oil.

Technically speaking, the drain plug washers are more than just a aluminum washer. The washer is a dead soft, annealed aluminum (generally of 2024 alloy) washer that is designed to harden when it gets cold worked. It's ok to use them for a time or two but after that they're no longer performing within their design parameters. After numerous compressions the metal will fracture from being cold worked and fluid leakage will ensue.

Also, as a general practice it's best to stick with aluminum washers when sealing aluminum surfaces. Save the copper washers for the steel oil pans on the old Chevy and throw the nylon cheapo washers in the garbage where they belong.

If only someone here had access to a met lab... one that included microhardness evaluation equipment. We could send them a new washer and a heavily used one.

There would be micro hardness values in Vickers and Knoop. Microstructural evaluations complete with photographs!

Alas...

"Technically speaking, the drain plug washers are more than just a aluminum washer. The washer is a dead soft, annealed aluminum (generally of 2024 alloy) washer that is designed to harden when it gets cold worked. It's ok to use them for a time or two but after that they're no longer performing within their design parameters. After numerous compressions the metal will fracture from being cold worked and fluid leakage will ensue."

The drain plug has a torque setting of 22lb/ft. I seriously doubt this is anything like enough pressure to compress and 'cold work' the washer but I guess if it gives you peace of mind then change it. I've never had one leak yet so I don't bother.

Its only 83 cents per washer, why not just change it ?

Simple vibration causes cold working of metals and ultimately will lead to fracture and surface striations over time. Yes, applying pressure to a annealed washer will cold work it.

Copper crush washers (like copper gaskets) can be re-annealed with a propane torch and used over and over. I think the widespread use of aluminum crush washers stems from their pretty silver color. Copper turns crappy brown after a while.

Ummm, I just did my 1500 mile oil change last night and used a rubber washer from autozone...no leaks so far, thought rubber would seal it best...

All my 4 cylinder bikes I never changed a washer.I did alot of oil changes,Don't see the need.My dealer would have to order it and it would be the wrong one.
Craig

I just changed it at 1000 miles. At 100 and 600 miles I did not change the washer. I did not think about it much until I read about this being a soft aluminum. After this change, a basic inspection of the washer showed a definite crushing of it. I will continue to replace them each and every time. If I need it and it saves my engine, great. If I could have stuck with the same one from the start and have wasted less than a dollar each time I change the oil, I'll never know anyways.

And no I am not crushing it on there with a breaker bar. I am putting it on at 22ft/lbs as instructed.
If I can find the old washer I will try and get a photograph of it on here.

Here is one, as long as you use the same side on the bolt you could reuse, but for 83 cents, I'm just going to replace if I have them

We always have our Techs replace them. For 34 cents, why not. Part # 92065-097