yeap not just once but twice in 4000 miles and 200 passes .. the 1st clutch had 10k miles and around 300 passes then this one only 4k miles ..but its had some HARD LAUNCHES .. i've think the weak link to our clutches is the 1st fiber . the one all the way to the back of the basket .. the one that got the bigger ID for the anti chatter rings with the smaller pads .. THATS WHATS BEEN TORN -UP chewed-up destroyed BOTH TIMES this time i'm installing a full fiber 1st instead of the 1/2 fiber ..

i don't blame the clutches ..cause 300hp and a lock-up is rough on anything .. i'm amazed they last that long ..

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/3/2009 @ 1:03 PM *

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Bad what springs are you using? I have just installed a set of Brocks heavy duty springs and I'm just wondering what to expect.

Look for KG clutch factory clutches. Thats what i've ran all year, haven't even had them out once.

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When you let the clutch out, first to collapse is the first one deep in the basket. Last to be closed on are the fibers near the pressure plate.

Not a thing you can do but pack a fat basket with the bigger steel. Less of a throw. Sill, she will remain to be the first to take the transition between wheel and crank.

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romans i've got stock springs with the lock-up ..the stiffer springs when compressed rub on the inner hub when using a lock-up . slow i'm gonna give the cycle concept clutch a try ..i've got several friends using them with excellent results and @169.00 + shipping for complete set ..

yes hub i understand that ..thats why i'm gonna put a full fiber in place of that 1/2 fiber disk . double the contact area an stop it from being a slider clutch ..

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/4/2009 @ 6:44 AM *

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i'm gonna have a fresh motor for you slow .. leak down told me i had valve trouble .. all 4 exhaust leaked even with cams removed .. 1 intake and it fixed itself after cam removed .so that ones a shim . GOOD NEWS was my pistons and cylinder walls was like new after 300 passes and 10k hard miles .. so now a valve job and my new carpenter valve springs i'm back into the power

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i'm gonna have a fresh motor for you slow

That kid is getting good on the setup, Rotty. I'd watch out for...

leak down told me i had valve trouble .. all 4 exhaust leaked even with cams removed .. 1 intake and it fixed itself after cam removed.

Good way to double check. 1 cylinder out, 3 less efficient. That thing would fly if you kept the air in it, Rotty. The way you beat the bike with the turbo heat on the exhaust backing up waiting for the spin of the blade in the way, wOT's with the one intake? No matter, what I want to know is how did the other one blow if you have no problems now.

GOOD NEWS was my pistons and cylinder walls was like new after 300 passes and 10k hard miles ..

And you have that air cleaner down the bottom with the wheel kicking up the grit? Not bad.

so now a valve job and my new carpenter valve springs i'm back into the power

I'd reverse leak that assembly. That means I'd set mine up 4 times the leak. I'm sure he does good work or his backroom crew. What with the first turbo and that mistake you let someone take the bike [parts] away.

You know how petite the valve 45° has to be? That has to be some precision tooling to be that narrow and centered on the valve.

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hub the 1st motor blew because i didn't do the work ..i trusted the guys that knew more than me .. i do almost all my own work . i think my exhaust valves are bent from a float .. and new valves with a lapping will fix the problem . grinding or cutting might not be needed.. i know more when my machinist checks it out ..

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If you just bent the valves, then there should be some tagging on the piston. No, what I meant was, what part blew on the turbo that has the bike being dependable on your build. They throw a hose boost off? You know more setup than I do with turbo. UB knows hishit. I'm just trying to figure out how one bike blows under another ones hands. Figure they are the same parts. I just don't remember what it was that went south. Bottom end take a crank bearing out? Piston melt? Details. Hey, I have my own fuckeups. I have video coming.

I would not touch the seats with anything like grinding compound. I'd just blue die or take a magic marker and cover the new valve with the ink. Spin the valve once or twice back and forth to see where the line sits on the valve. If she is still thin and lines up = Your Bike! My bike, I lube the stems and if someone is about to balance stack springs?

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heads on it way to the shop tomorrow and i've purchased a cometic head gasket

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4840407&showprevnext=1#

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/6/2009 @ 1:27 PM *

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Hey BAD-that .018 head gasket-will that go on my 07?And what sort of gains might I see?AND-are they reliable over the long haul?

the thinner gasket will increase your compression . you will see some gains but nothing huge . its not worth the trouble and expense alone.. but installed with a ported head and cams and maybe a 2mil or stroker .. all together big gains around 30 to 40 hp ..

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I'm running the .018 gasket, cam gears, and had the bowls blended on my head. Runs like a striped ass ape.

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Thank you guys-figured I'd ask the experts.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/7/2009 @ 12:36 PM *

got my head back today .. no bent valves .only issue was seat pitting ..

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Make sure you check your steels for hot spots that can be felt or warping. Hot spots are pretty normal but as they do more than show colors of the rainbow and become more than spots you can see. The shape of the metal on the spot changes from the heat and you can feel the hot spot with your finger, they start to wear the fibers much quicker. I am getting more runs on my fibers since I swapped out the steels and I replace them now if I can feel any hot spot with my finger. He he.. did I mention I love to feel the hot spot with my finger? Anyway.. warped steels have got to go, of course. Plus, I mic my fibers. Once they are under 2.75mm it won't be long before they completely dissolve. I'll use them to the minimum spec of about 2.70mm but will mix in new fibers to get the pack height I like.. which is on the thin side of spec range (53.52 - 54.52) so my take up is lower in the lever action. My point is, a micrometer and a couple minutes of measuring can save you from having to replace all the fibers every time and get the take up you prefer. Of course this might be different for everyone. Personally.. I like to feel some drag about 1/2" or so off the handlebar. I am sure lots of you know this already. I have just got dialing the clutch down the way I like it pretty good this season.. thought I'd share.

* Last updated by: motoCycho on 10/9/2009 @ 7:04 PM *

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yes i mic out my steels and fibers and i lay them on glass to check for warpness 54.40 was my new stack with old fibers around 2,80 .. i had several steels around 2.90 from a low mile basket..

can't wait on my new head gasket to get this thing running again ..

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/10/2009 @ 11:25 AM *

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