Yes...go slowly.Make sure they're actually in the slots before forcing anything.If you DO need to apply a bit of force...don't jolt anything.They all will go right in if the whole piece is lined up correctly.If it (visibly)doesn't appear 'in place' before assembling...stop...make sure all is where it's supposed to be.Assemble all bodyparts IN ORDER that the manual describes...till you understand how things fit together.

Luckily I haven't had any tabs break on me, can't remember which model you've got Grn14, but I suspect the earlier models (mine's an '08) were easier to deal with the fairings.

Also, depending on which tabs you're talking about, I typically have problems removing the pegs that just push into rubber "slots" or holes, specifically the foreman grills have a couple of those. For those, perhaps a silicon based lube might work to make it require less force to remove and reinstall.

Only other points I can think of are try to avoid working on the plastics when they are cold (below freezing) as most plastics become brittle the colder they are. I also try to make sure I'm applying force to a single point, when removing the "interference fit" parts, I'll pull on the area immediately around the "peg" so I don't crack the fairing.

Otherwise what you've already mentioned is what I do: install the fairings in the proper order, make sure they are lined up properly before bolting them in place (typically I need to double check the fairing over the tank).

My biggest issue isn't with the assembly
I'm all good with that part. It's when I'm riding that I'm having the troubles. The rear fairings near the taillight keep breaking. Usually I would attribute that to girls riding on the back and getting off and on in properly, but that's not the case this time. My girl is extremely careful when it comes to this bike. Is there any way to reinforce the fairings and the tabs themselves.?

The worst part about all of this is that these other tabs on my OEM fairings!!!! I wasn't smart enough to take them off and put them away after I did the custom paint work! I now have flat black ABS injection fairings on the bike until I get my OEM fairings fixed

2006 kawasaki zx14
c&s customs 360 wide tire kit
arnott air ride system
custom accent pieces: brake caliper spikes, fork caps, blade levers
custom airbrush paint on OEM Fairings
pingel air shifter
boost by smith launch/shift light
black out silver oem parts on bike
custom exhaust

Are you talking about the tabs that are bolted in in the subframe?Under the seat?IF you tighten ANY of those bolts of that configuration anywhere on the bike..you can easily overtighten and start small hairline cracks.Virtually invisible(from crushing the plastic).After a time...they will crack off.Your'e using the small plastic washers on any of those,yes?

Nightmare says..."I typically have problems removing the pegs that just push into rubber "slots" ".I simply use spit to install those projections,and when removing,I slowly pull gently outwards to remove.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/11/2017 @ 9:15 AM *

My best advice is the body work needs to line up all correctly and basically be held into place with the bolts. You're right, if stuffs misaligned a little and you're using the bolts to "move" things into place it's gonna cause problems. I have a helluva time with those rubber grommets and the foremans. The balls lined up with the grommets (I can finger it) the damn things just don't go through the holes.

I don't know to love or hate this bodywork cause it's such a PITA. I need to get working on my bike riding seasons only about 3 months away now!

God Bless ya buddy!

Just before installing...you put a some spit on that projection...I guarantee it'll pop right in.Then when it evaporates...she's snug nicely.No petroleum contamination to mess with the grommet life.

It sounds to me like those rear panel fairing mounts are being tightened too much.Once it's started cracking,that's it...unless you get some REAL superglue and strengthen the screw hole area on the tab.I would not use 'krazyglue' or 'gorilla superglue' either.Locktite seems the best for something like that.Sheet metal guys would drill a small hole at the crack to stop it from going any farther...but you really can't do that with these small mount tabs there.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/12/2017 @ 12:28 PM *

Ive fixed cracked ABS with two part epoxy and a reenforcement piece of ABS on the inside of the fairing. Use a heat gun to shape the patch. Cut a piece about twice the size you think you need because they will shrink when you apply heat. Little sandpaper to perfect the contour of the patch and then just glue and clamp it. iv'e heard plastic welders work well. Probably takes some practice but looks like fun.

There's been a few times where my body work wouldn't just go back into place. Just have to work at it. I mean where those mounts are, generally the body work is maybe an inch away with no support and I can gingerally just push the body work in (when everything is right) and the holes all line up. There's no forcing or anything it all just "falls" into place. I've found that just one little tab here or there causes those parts all not to line up correctly. A couple times now I've taken a whole side off to get things on their right again.