**UPDATE #2** !!

Received GUHL Flash. Installed Full Yosh R-77. Map installed by Guhl, no PC-V, Autotune required.

NICE! Problem solved. Tested at 140 mph indicated. All is well. Good respones. No overheating. Thinking about +2 Rear, but not really necessary...

Can now turn KTRC off while moving, but will not stay off when shut down. Guhl says they are working on that.

**UPDATE** !!

Spoke to Guhl today. Says he can do it. Says the 2016 ECU is like the H2/H2R ECU Euro 4 compliant, which they have already flashed.

Stay tuned for further news...

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I recently acquired a 2016 ZX-14R, looking forward to doing all my normal mods: Full Yosh, PC-V, ECU Flash.

Spoke to Dynojet: PC-V for 2016 not available. Maybe by end of year.

Spoke to Ivan: Very angry and cranky because someone has been ripping off his maps. So he will not create a map for the 2016.

Seems that 2016 is very different from 2012-2015. Different harness, different O2 sensor, hard to turn off.

Bummer.

Will I have to do ride this bike stock? That was definitely not my plan.

Any thoughts out there?

* Last updated by: motoman97034 on 8/15/2016 @ 10:45 AM *

Give Brocks a call.

I'm sure Kawasaki would have no reason to make the bike hard to hack. Euro compliant, of course but they're always going to leave the keys to your cell hanging within reach.

Buy the pipes you want, just make sure they have a bunghole for the o2. You don't need flashes or pcvs to run pipes.

Besides, maybe you can do some actual testing with some before and afters like I did cblast vs stock ecu.

You guys are not reading this...

2016 ZX is different! I need to hear from somebody who's already flashed a 2016 ZX-14R or installed a PC-V.

Otherwise I am screwed.

Called 2wheeldynoworks. Never done one. No way I will be the first. Uh-uh. Nope.

Lots of guys have flashed the 2016 ZX-10's. I suppose that's encouraging..

All I really want is the retard eliminator in 1-3, and flies to open sooner. Keeping KTRC off would be nice. Then I'll go with PC-V and Autotune.

The time is coming when you won't be able to buy an aftermarket pipe without a Cat in it like Calif. KTM ECU's are already locked down at the Dealer. I bet the next step will be a holographic strip on the ECU so Kawi can tell if it's ever been removed. And next, the whole ECU will shut down if it detects you have tampered with it.

* Last updated by: motoman97034 on 7/19/2016 @ 5:58 PM *

Yup, if its like a '12-15 it'll run just fine with just a full exhaust.

Now, hopefully I don't jinx you but it'd be a shame if all of the euro 4 compliance stuff isn't already done in the '16 model and you end up with a bastard ecu that no one ever decides to work on.

In any case, its not the end of the world. pull the flies and bolt up whatever exhaust you want. It will give you most of what you want, and wont harm a thing. (unless this bike has a severely changed tune, which I doubt).

and maybe call Don Guhl. I'm sure he's got some info on the ins and outs of the '16's by now.

I recently acquired a 2016 ZX-14R, looking forward to doing all my normal mods: Full Yosh, PC-V, ECU Flash.
NOPE.

hmmmmm,,, Any chance you could take a picture of the ECU and it's Serial numbers ?

Woolich has software for the 2016 zx14r.
Dynojet says the pc5 will work on the pages that don't use the o2 sensor.
Shame about Ivan..

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 7/26/2016 @ 7:42 AM *

Another reason I went for the 15, way cheaper and I am not the guinea pig. LOL poor Ivan's. I am sure he has a quality product. I did call and speak to him and he was very nice. If someone really did rip him off then thats a shame. From my research it seems like Ivans was still the choice if you wanted a yosh pipe, but I wanted full titanium so Brocks got the nod.

* Last updated by: darkarcher on 7/25/2016 @ 9:00 AM *

So does anyone know if the zx14r se has the same levers as the h2r?

Just turned 6733 miles on my new 2016 ZX-14R ABS SE. As soon as I rode the new bike I felt that Kawasaki had made changes to the ECU. More responsive to the throttle and a much throatier growl from the exhaust. Put 53K on my 2012 and rode both on the same day, so it was easy to see the difference. No proof, just my gut take.

Flash is available.

Think I might try Woolich this time around..

...or look into an aftermarket ECU.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=72102A3A-F92F-1160-96F2B59AFDA3B612&show=0&page=7

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/20/2016 @ 9:26 PM *

I believe it goes something like this:
APS - Analog... FULL Power (ask Vic the diff between OE vs. flash)
02 - Analog... FULL Power (e4 or 5?)

APS - Analog set with this in the loop is called Open Loop.
02 - Digitally set with the flash is no longer in Closed Loop.

APS - Limpenis is a one way switch to flash.
02 - Limpenis is remove the 02, toggle (I don't givashit) to open, it is no loner set in analog = FULL Power.

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I don't want to be the first to jump in the lake and follow others yes, but to be first to see how shallow it is?... head first. I get it. This is just a suggestion. I'd look at Dobeck's site, look for the accelerator pump option, the fuel cutoff not entering the idle area like the old style pot. This would start at the beginning. No big deal, but this is as cheap as it gets to squirt the rear wheel it's setup right for the grunt, i.e., 'best torque' range. And that's not some 13.1a shit. It's what the bike likes, i.e., your ambient, your altitude, etc., and then that's your AFR number for best torque. Something like that.

The next is pavlov's dog at the dash. Ignore the blinking. That, or experiment with who in the connectors do I touch to flop the code off. I'd disconnect the 02, I'm going to be set in limp or open loop but not real open loop, you lost the analog, remember. It's now in 'method math' basically. No sensor, it converts with a backup number (14.7psi) of 760mmHg. Bike still runs, just not in the preset of 14.7a more or less.

With the 02 disabled, you can fuel the bike to whatever AFR you want.
With a hack to the wires without cutting the OEM, you find a way to extend the wires to each side of the connectors is how I can run in N map or 6 map. You have two options right there if you want to hack around with maps.

As far as the faster fly opening, that '016 is just one more R&D for me to know. If N or 6 calls it, there you go. As far as turning off the skid marks, you'll have to hand set it if you want it off. Pull the wires off the gear position sensor and connect it back together. Reconnect the 02. Pull the pig off the injectors = OEM.