Hey,

Anyone know how the cam chain tensioner operates after re-install? I've recently re&re'd it, set the retracted pin with the retaining clip to put back in, but not sure how she releases afterwards? My guess is as soon as there's some play on the chain, she'll 'pop' and the pin will slide pass the clip and put tension back on the chain/guard. Just checking to see if anyone has experience with this to ensure I'm not missing anything.

Cheers,
g

I just woke up from Motel6 is I can fly that plane. And no, I've never experienced a 14 tensioner. But here are the generics.
1. Held in hand, you run lift the release clip, slide the shaft with the teeth down into the tensoiner.
2. Release clip locker so the shaft stays in place.
3. Like a mousetrap, carefully install the grenade in said up position and torque bolts. You'll need to hit that clip one more time on the snap of the shaft moving out.
4. The given is you have the timing correct. You have the front chain rung taught on the rotation of the crank.
5. You now take a long flat tipped screwdriver device, unload that ratchet ring clip, the shaft comes flying out.
6. If your timing is on the money, you rotate one more time back to TDC, recheck your timing lining up; replace top cover.
7. Start engine for sound. If it chatters and then quiets down, your turn the key off, and restart. If there is no noise, the oil is primed, the unit works.
8. Don't be surprised if you hear the chatter at each cold start. I'm use to it and she makes not a peep within a second or less when running.

Hey Hub,

Yeah, found some more detail after I posted. In fact, the page after in the manual shows the long screwdriver trigger for the mouse trap. I only took out the tensioner to pull off one of the cam caps/towers, as the head cover bolt broke off in her. I was lucky and used the broken bolt to work out the other broken piece in the cap. I don't believe timing is affected as the chain didn't move at all, but could be mistaken. I'm hoping to avoid taking off the cover to bring her to TDC. What are your thoughts on my situation considering the chain didn't move at all. Do you still think I need to rotate her back after I trigger the tensioner? Would releasing the tensioner and putting her back alone through my timing off?

Cheers,
g

If for certain, you do not think it moved, then go for it. Here is what I'd do. You have to know which is the next piston to meet the open valve. Slowly roll up to that as you watch the cam push whatever shim bucket down, you have your chop stick (soft, crush-able) just in case you chomp down on a lost piece inside, you can more crunch wood than metal, which won't burn, think.

Think you are getting close to tagging, you have something stopping you from moving further, you need to stop. All it takes is a small like hump over what you think is resistance; just ever so slight, that was it is a tag and you are done. Roll back and lift the cam towers back off.

All this time, you are loading that hole with something on the slipper as you find TDC. As far as rolling backwards, sure, just keep that shaft loaded on the slipper so the cams roll, not the slipper rolling back out that screwdriver.

Then you know the rest is pretty straight forward to set the shaft home on the slipper arm, statically that is. Rotate 360 one more time to recheck the marks. Button her up, you are done.