This is part of my continuing "blacking out" of the hardware.
I thought about powdercoating them but hex heads don't stand up too well to tool contact. Painting is even worse. I found a place that sells the same bolt in black oxide but the black doesn't look very good.
I found a site (forgot the name at the moment) that sells a good looking conical/cone shaped bolt but they only offer it in polished. The same site offers a black bolt but it's made of "316" aluminum which I'm not sure is the material I want. The reason I'm skeptical is they say their polished stainless steel bolt "can be torqued down to OEM requirements" but they don't include that info with their 316 aluminum bolts. Kind of hard to believe you couldn't torque them as needed but it makes me think these bolts may be inferior.
I guess the stock bolts are steel?
Anyway, I see a lot of pics of members bikes but rarely do I see the clutch cover bolts changed. They're also a "hex/flange"(built in washer) design which is maybe necessary and I shouldn't change?? Any help appreciated.
Got any bolt/hardware sites you can share?

Go to a crafts shop. Take one bolt out and match how you can place a cap over the stock bolt. You find the plastic caps, paint them, clear coat them. Glue them in place. From a distance you get the effect.

Things like the clutch cover and dyno cover take no stress like the left side with the clutch actuator throwing pounds at the stock bolts. If you are talking about the anodized colored aluminum bolts, then they need to have that 8mm head. A 10mm bolt head will be too fat to go in part of the covers boss.

The 8mm bolt has a built-in pressure washer taper. You may need to use a washer and lock washer to keep the anodize bolts in place. Can't locktite those bolts in or they'll snap coming out.

Murphykits use to sell blacked bolts -n- stuff for the 14. He said, almost 2 years ago now, he was going to do a new 14 set. I don't see them on his site... still broken promises.

* Last updated by: JDC on 3/9/2010 @ 8:31 AM *

You're not gonna crank em down too much.I'd just shoot em with a bit of primer,then black em out.

trust me, you don't want aluminum bolts. There is a reason the manufactures don't use aluminum bolts.... they are weak, stretch and gall easy, then they break when you try to remove them.
Steel or titanium only my friend.

I had some aluminum pro bolts and quickyl decided they should only be used on asthetic parts, such as hloding the brake resevoir etc...

Thanks for the replies.
Yeah dubious, aluminum seems like the wrong material. I went to the Pro bolt site and they sell some socket cap/tapered titanium bolts. GOOD looking bolt. Kinda mimics the shape of the cover. They add a "small" charge per bolt if you want them anodized. I haven't even figured out what size the bolts are but it looks like it'll be about $10/ea. Not sure anodized black is what I want as that has a gloss look I think and the cover is satin. Still would look better than the standard zinc color over satin. Heck, I might even try painting them as suggested and if it doesn't work out I can just remove the paint.
I looked up the torque and it's under 8 ft/lb for these. So maybe I could paint 'em and not mar up the finish (much)while tightening. Painted Allens might work too. Allens don't show the tool marks that much. One of them has to have a threadlock applied but I'm not sure why. I wouldn't bother replacing the 3 or 4 that you can't see anyway.

ACE hardware use to sell bakck metric bolts -n- such.