Manual cam chain tensioner.
Where would be a good place to get one in the Toronto area?
The few dealings I have had with dealers has not been good.
Thanks.

IF you have the 2012 or later models...no tensioner needed.;)Kawasaki fixed all that.

I wonder if the 14r tensioner would fit the Gen1? ....or is there more to the updated design than just the tensioner?

but an APE is going to cost less than OEM

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/10/2014 @ 7:45 AM *

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Sorry, 08 and I just started getting the rattle noise on start up, sometimes.
Looking for a decent place to buy one in the GTA. Aftermarket, manual. Not oem.

"The few dealings I have had with dealers has not been good." Why, "Let the good times roll" is roll the bike in the garage and do it yourself.

Turtle: Is that your buggy or are you a fan of the sand/dirt?
OCM: No, just a fan.

Turtle: So that means you are not mechanically inclined.
OCM: I didn't say that.

Turtle: No, I said it so I'm going to assume.
OCM: Ass soon away and soon you'll know on my next post.

Turtle: How many miles on the bike?
OCM: Enough to check the valve lash.

Turtle: You know if you make a big knot and pull on both wires in the cam tensioner...
OCM:... Let me guess, there is no locking of that ring around the collar.

Turtle: Dish is not a soap commercial no tick key no wash she, no, it's that simple a yank.
OCM: You mean you yank key doodle dandy'd that part just like that?

Turtle: Why do you think no one listens to turd dull
OCM: zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

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Carpenter racing 866-753-1555 N.J. makes one that replaces the original. It works great I had one on my 07. You have to be careful with manual tensioner I've seen more than one person adjust to tight causing the chain to snap.

You need to use a tad bit of common sense when adjusting the manual tensioner...along with the instructions;)

follow instructions and it is a snap to install and adjust an APE. I have a tutorial in How TOs.

The OEM CCT is a lot of work to install and reset.

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Sorry I was not more clear.
I know there are a couple of members from this site around the Toronto area.
I just would like to know where to buy the aftermarket manual tensioner.
I can install it myself.
Hub, the buggy is mine, built from the ground up in my garage for Ultra 4 type racing.
I order all my race parts from the US and pick them up across the boarder. Saves cash.
If I were to just order this part from the US and have it shipped here the price would
prob more than double.
So, would any of the local guys be able to recommend a good shop that I could just go out
and buy this part.

OCM: The buggy is mine, built from the ground up in my garage for Ultra 4 type racing.
Turtle: Once upon a time I was a heavy line mechanic at a car dealership. Took me no time to figure out the parts.

OCM: Well, you knew I was mechanically inclined so are you saying that if you can work on cars I can work on bikes?
Turd: Dull says, I am going to assume again so I am not looking the ass guessing that was your rig and once someone...

OCM:... Turns a wrench it is just a matter of parts can only go together one way. Where did I hear that?
Turd: Beats me, but anyway, are you paying out the ass once the reach around begins at the border?

OCM: Oh no, not this again. You are going to assume I am squeaking out the canadians and once it transfers...
Turd:... That is correct. Transfer the loop as if pulling on a knot, but not so stretched you kink the wire.

OCM: Wire wire pants on fire, man it burns getting that wallet out when I reach around for it.
Turd: How about you tool up with some metrics and piss that money away on seeing where the valve gap is, pay-4 shims.

OCM: Is you telling me what to do with my bike.
Turd: Eyes is just seeing over the bore, dear, you piss away your money and I'm saying here, pull on my finger.

OCM: Look, I am, say it, not confident pulling down my bike.
Turd: You said it not me. I'm saying if ROOK can do it so can you yank on a tensioner wire, inspect shims, etc.

OCM: What am I missing?
Turd: zzzzzz, Wha?

OCM: I said, what am I missing ear?
Turd: zzzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzz

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/10/2014 @ 10:28 PM *

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Should have gone to pirate....to get a real no BS answer.

Lol.

Hub says if you have the skillz to build a buggy then you can fix your OEM CCT. Also he says to check your valve clearances to make sure that isn't contributing to the noise you're hearing.

I've seen the repair method for the gen1 CCT but someone else who has actually done it should explain.

I have no rightoespeak upon that detail.

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I think you got your answers not including me. This is more for the OE fix and you take your changes; I've never done it but I can see it. I'm not looking over your shoulder to stop you so that's where it stops you being on your own with this you fuk it up.

OEM Style:
1. Take the cam cover off.
2. Check your valves.
3. Time your chain to your cam tooth.
4. Pull the cam chain tensioner.
5. Look at the fine wires in the tensioner.
6. Close the hoop tighter so it hugs those locker teeth at the plunger.
6. Load the tensioner so it locks with that other wire.
7. Do not touch this plunger wire at the nose of the tensioner. First see if it locks the plunger in place. If it does, leave it alone. Note which way to bend in or out, meaning, the direction only works one way, think.
8. Roll the cam back on it's chain [marks] so you do not even need to pull the chain off the sprocket. Torque the caps and all that.
9. Install the tensioner and torque to spec.
10. I'm adding another way to set the tensioner.
a. Book will get you there; do a search on this site. So basically what you are doing is pushing the slipper against the plunger; unload the lock ring's tension; is pushed against a stopper wall call it as the heavy spring pushes it there. Once the slipper is pushing the plunger back, the spring will have [expansion] memory and slide down that gap into a wider opening. This is enough for the plunger to move out. Get it?

b. YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN! You are the guinea pig on this. What this means is to follow theory. OEM Theory says, you push the cam chain; which pushes the slipper; which pushes the plunger in; which sends the locking ring in a wider groove; which now lets the plunger spring out>>> once the pushing tool is released off the chain. Are we up on the concept of releasing the plunger out of the tensioner?

c. Taking all that crap off the head, you being on your own and not my fault it worked or didn't work for you, OEM is the correct way, you won't find this shit you go some other place figuring thishit out. Ready?
1. I'm going to take the right crank cover off.
2. I left the top cover on and all my work is at the crank turning.
3. I moved the crank backwards so I feel the front chain being loose.
4. I remove the cam tensioner.
5. I create more waste band tension around the plunger, I know which way to pull the plunger [wire] and know when to stop.
6. I know my locking wire holds the plunger in, I ran a static test without the heavy spring.
7. I have locked the plunger home and it sits on the bench waiting.
Here is the Loophole.
8. I have a stout screwdriver in the hole of the tensioner.
9. I am pushing the slipper in so the chain does not climb up a tooth.
10. I am moving the crank backward and am stopping every little degree and stop. Why?
11. I now install the tensioner real slow so the plunger touches the slipper, where am I?
12. I want the tensioner bolts to be just tight enough it floats the tensioner as you move it in its hole.
13. I want all that slop taken up at the threads, because as I move the crank backwards, I want the tensioner's nose to just trigger once I move the chain backwards . See it?

Say I would rather not move my chain backwards. Okay, then I have my other triggering idea is to find the longest, skinniest screwdriver.
14. I now slide this size screwdriver wedged in between the slipper and chain. Why?
15. I triggered the plunger's lock ring to expand so the plunger comes out. How do I know?
16. I removed the screwdriver from between the chain and plunger, I no longer can move the loose tensioner.
17. I now can tell my floating tensioner between those ever so loose bolts has triggered the plunger out.
18. I have about a 1/4 turn of a screw(s) loose at the tensioner so I tighten and torque to spec the tensioner bolts.
19. I move the crank forward so the rear chain goes loose, the plunger takes up more slack.
20. I turn the crank 1 full turn forward.
21. I turn the crank backwards ever so slight I should not see a lot of slack at the rear rung.
Catch22. I install the crank cover, start engine and listen to see if the start up noise is gone?

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/12/2014 @ 2:21 PM *

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The OEM CCT is a lot of work to install and reset.

@ Rook, this post was more directed to you. Since you like to tinker with the bike, you still have the OE hanging around, you still have to remove the static CCT, you might want to see if you can trigger that slipper-chain deal, but more like watch the CCT or hold it with one hand and push the driver up with the other hand.

Once that plunger flies out... See where it says it right beTTween the line?

Signed,

NOL (anyone know were my other letters are?)

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anyone know were my other letters are?

Have you checked the Isle of Mann?

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Lol.

Hub says if you have the skillz to build a buggy then you can fix your OEM CCT.

hag, Those are more written for the locals around here. YOu know who you are.

Also he says to check your valve clearances to make sure that isn't contributing to the noise you're hearing.

That's a yes and no. Yes, there is going to be some ticking between the two, but I only mentioned that since the bike in question might need the valves adjusted. This way, he could see what he's doing by killing two birds following the shop manual procedure.

Right now, he's pissing away Jeep money, does not see how simple the OE tensioner is to repair, has a currency problem if buying what? Is he going to race the bike or just street ride it? The job is too easy and not one bill out of the wallet he takes a chance at the loophole or services his bike or burns valves.

That solid CCT is high maintenance, the OE is set and forget.

Should have gone to pirate....to get a real no BS answer.

Send me the link. I see zero answers to threads, that is one more BS site: they can't answer a simple tech question about a car or bike. You don't see me stepping away from the vehicle, do you? I just explained 2 ways for the OE adjustments alone. If you wait right here, I'll come up with a 3rd one for the static adjust... Gimme a moment... I'm old.

Signed,

There's no TT here; can someone call the janitor?

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/12/2014 @ 4:23 PM *

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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/motorcycles-atvs/1675298-harley-davidson-evo-80-tech-kind.html

Should have gone to pirate....to get a real no BS answer.

OCM, No offense and no BS, but diddle dent we say there is what over there? No real tech advice and you'll find it where you came from did you say?

You keep digging hole guy and I'll keep rattling your chain.

Newbees. So new they throw in 14 engines rather than a fork or chittylay.

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Wow. Something got sucked into that pump. A plastic tooth would do it I think.

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Hehehe, Hub, you must be bored.

Give Winners circle a call I believe they carry ape,you could also try Mitch at Frankenstein

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Frankenstein, call Mitch, 416-652-3392

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Thanks Wolfman.