Hope you don't mind the dumb question.
I'm taking off the wheels to get them chromed. I have zero experience with working on the newer bikes. I want to be sure I have all the tools I need. I have the factory manual. I'm not sure about the removal steps.
I bought a 22 mm hex to fit the left side axle nut. The manual says to first loosen the left and right axle clamp bolts and axle nut, then remove axle.
Do I need another 22 mm to hold the right side of the axle or will the axle nut crack loose without it?
Seems to me the whole assembly will just rotate if not held? Or do I leave the right side clamp bolts tight and that will allow the nut to be loosened?
I appreciate the help.

I had my wheels off last Summer and I loosened the 2 pinch bolts on the rear brake side of the bike. The two pinch bolts on the shift lever side were left tightened and they held the axle from turning when force was applied to the axle nut. I used the back side of a sparkplug socket (if anyone needs to know what size, ask, I'll go look) to turn the axle nut. When you get the axle nut out, loosen the the pinch bolts on the shift lever side of the bike and out she will come.

This should help with a few details.

http://www.zx14ninjaforums.com/messages.cfm?threadid=38AC4EA4-1372-66AE-3BD2459A4CD6FD1E

Rook, thanks for the reply. The factory procedure didn't seem right so I had to ask.
Stick with me and let me be sure.
1. Loosen the RIGHT side(as sitting on bike)clamp bolts ONLY.
2. Loosen the axle nut on the LEFT side.
3. Loosen left side clamps and remove axle.

Maybe I'll understand how it works when I get all the parts off. Right now it seems to me if the left side clamp bolts are still tight then the axle nut can't be loosened.

wow wished it was that easy when i did mine a couple months ago i had to remove the front fender first(guess that would depend on how high you got the front end up) brake calipers i didnt have a socket to fit the left side but i used rooks idea with the socket just had to leave the pinch bolts snugged on the left side until i got the axle loose on the right

my left and right are if your sitting on the bike

damn i forgot to put those ugly reflectors back on when it went back together lol

ps those cable retainer clips can be a bitch to get out of the fender

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 1/18/2010 @ 3:52 PM *

Right now it seems to me if the left side clamp bolts are still tight then the axle nut can't be loosened.

You are correct. If the pinch bolts are tight on the left side, they will be holding the axle nut and you will not be able to turn the axle nut.

The basic idea is to leave the pinch bolts tight opposite of the side you are turning. The pinch bolts need to be loose on the side that you do turn.

My axle nut is on the left (shift lever side) so I would loosen the left pinch bolts and break the axle nut free. Then jack the front up and continue to remove the axle nut. After the axle nut comes off, loosen the pinch bolts on the right (rear brake) side and pull axle out.

Sorry if I mislead you with my first post. When I removed my front wheel, I turned the axle out and left the axle nut pinched in the clamp on the other side. Sounds like Scottjkyl did the same from his post up above. It works either way but you would not want to turn the axle all the way free unless the front of the bike was raised on a stand or jack which it will need to be to get the wheel out anyway.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/18/2010 @ 4:41 PM *

ps those cable retainer clips can be a bitch to get out of the fender

They sure are. Don't get pissed and bust them. I can explain how they work if you need to remove the brake line retainers but they will still bloody your fingers.

I did not need to remove the brake line retainer clips to get the wheel out. I think I just removed all the bolts from the front fender and left it hang on the lines. It was possible to move the fender up enough to roll the wheel out.

KAK, I don't know why, but I remember I had to remove the front brakes from the disks. It is just two bolts that hold each caliper on. Take those off before you remove the axle. You can check you brake pads while the calipers are off.

It looks like the Service manual shows that there is a spacer and a bearing on each side but I don't think those will come out with the axle. They will stay in the hub. There is a grease seal cap that will come out on each side.

Take a look at the thread I posted in my second reply. You will go through all the same dilemmas i did. It's not a cake walk the first time you take a wheel off. Not bad though.

SM tells it like this:
• Remove:
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
Front Calipers
• Loosen:
Axle Clamp Bolts (Left Side)
Axle Nut
Axle Clamp Bolts (Right Side)
• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in
the Frame chapter). THEY DON'T SAY ANYTHING ABOUT THE FRONT FENDER BECAUSE A JACK WOULD BE ABLE TO RAISE THE FRONT MORE THAN A STAND, i GUESS.
• Raise the front wheel off the ground with the jack.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
• Remove the axle nut and pull out the axle to the right and
drop the front wheel out of the forks.

Make sure you don't put the rim back in backward. There is an arrow molded in the rim and it should be pointing the direction of the rotation of the tire.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/18/2010 @ 4:49 PM *

VERY IMPORTANT GUYS make sure to apply a small film of grease to the axle shaft before re-installing or it may not come out the next time

rook for $40 you can get a chain hoist that would raise the bike higher and not have a jack in the way

For forty bucks that must be some kind of device that hangs from a ceiling. Nice but I'm not so sure I would trust the joists in my garage -- and it's not even really my garage.

Rook, others, thanks for the help and details about other things.
I was just giving it a quick look over and did notice those retainers for the brake lines. They looked like trouble.
I'm pretty sure I can wire up the calipers and just unbolt the fender to get the wheel out.
This is only the second bike I've owned since '79 (still have my GS1000E). It has a very good/easy to follow factory manual that tells you exactly how to do things. Follow it step by step and you're good.
This ZX factory manual seems to constantly tell you to go to another damn page. I'm used to doing exactly as the manual says so I thought the axle removal procedure was odd. I haven't worked on the bike much but I first found the chain adjuster procedure is wrong, meaning they mistake the adjuster nut with the holder nut. This chain adjuster set up is different than my GS and it threw me for a moment. But I can see some owners trying to follow what the manual says and getting screwed up and even damaging the nut trying to get the wrong one loose. Kinda stupid for Kaw' to get that mixed up. Makes you wonder what other info could be wrong and you'd never know.
I'm hoping the chrome wheels/ceramic coating for the header work goes smooth. I'm thinking I'll order some bearings and seals from Kaw' unless they want too much. I'm a little leary of buying another brand if there could be any slight differences. I plan to own this bike a long time so I want to have piece of mind when replacing parts. I guess I should also get a new c-clip for the rear wheel(manual says it's a "replace" part)?
I'm getting them chromed at Classic Components. Seems like they do good work. The ceramic coating will be done at Embee in So.Cal. Kerry at Area P recommended them.
Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll be asking for more advice as I go along.

I guess I should also get a new c-clip for the rear wheel(manual says it's a "replace" part)?

Lots of times I use gaskets and other stuff more than one time. I never had the bearings out so i don't know if it is a must to replace that C clip as long as it is not damaged by removal. If it's not too expensive maybe you might as well since you probably won't be going back in there for a long time. I'd ask Hub. Tell him how many miles you have on the bearings.

Ash Hub? That means trying to decipher his hubsterglyphics. Gives me a headache.
I've got 6K on the bike. The parts aren't that much. Bikebandit wants $6 for the c-clip, $18 per bearing and $12 for each seal. Not too sure about buying bearings other than genuine Kaw' though there's probably nothing to worry about.
I've got a side question if you don't mind. How do you include a quote from someone with your reply? Websites I'm used to have a quote box next to any reply but I don't see anything here.

^^all I do is highlight what i want to quote, copy it and go down to the message box. There is an icon in the menu above the box that looks like a guy with a speech balloon like in the comics. Hit that icon to make the quote/end quote code. Paste your quote between them.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/19/2010 @ 7:59 PM *

^^all I do is highlight what i want to quote, copy it and go down to the message box. There is an icon in the menu above the box that looks like a guy with a speech balloon like in the comics. Hit that icon to make the quote/end quote code. Paste your quote between them.

I was was also living in the 16th century a year ago. I can't believe how much I still don't know.

Here you go, a little video of using 2 spark plug sockets for the front axle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DroEF2ArNP8

* Last updated by: fastyz400 on 12/6/2011 @ 1:24 PM *

cool video......i like the bike, might have to have one.