Just got my new 14 tonite!

Anyhow... I'm changing the oil and filter before I even start it. Didn't even let the dealer start it. If you've seen the Twist the Throttle Kawasaki episodes, then you already know that these bikes are assembled, warmed up, and then put straight onto a Dyno. Makes me curious just how much sh*t is in the oil as delivered from Kawasaki.
So... I went out and picked up a nice new, clear drain pan and I wanna dissect the oil filter to look for contaminants. I've tore plenty'o filters apart with pliers and channel locks before.
But any ideas on a better way? Pipe cutter? I dunno??? I want to do this as cleanly as possible... as in not contaminate my findings.

I am with you on this one. Just changed oil/filter the second time @ 700 miles on my ZX-6R. The frist time was at 180 miles and both times the oil sure looked murky. Not dark, just with lots of shiny metal particles. Just point a flaslight to the oil, millions will lit up.
BTW, congrats on you new toy.

* Last updated by: Steven14 on 11/13/2010 @ 7:15 AM *

All of them I've seen are usually sawed in half lengthwise. Bandsaw would be your best bet, but if you have some time, a hacksaw will work.

Finished Product BAR CODE! Smooth-So smooth, the other day, 'INN 6th she danced her front wheel fangdango.' Power Product To The ASSembly LINE!

I have video so, to THE Koweesockey assembly line, the grade is 99.9999999999999999% Perfect. I cannot complain, nor would I claim a warranty for such a small item. Final execution can be pointed out if I mention a stop to a certain point on said video.

It is more a, "field report." It is so minor, I found no other flaw, mistake, thread tear, fit-finish. Just a flawless bike from every end. So abused from out the gate in a gentleman's break'inn. Pound her softly.

Disays the day glow LAPS the 'bow and arroWAY' is the Ninja WAY = WOTit was built for. To the line-warriors to the top of the line I solute your toot. Sling shot, bow to the dough... I have cash waiting...... What's NEXT SIN the oven SAY? Hello? While we're young!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5t7m0tzfCrA

Never got around to cutting one of mine open but the way I would go about it would be by piercing and tearing like you have done in the past. I don't see how that would make any extra shavings. I bet a razor knife would work. Maybe put the filter in a vice to hold the filter while cutting.

A roller/wheel blade pipe cutter works great for pipe. If it is a newer sharp one, I bet it would be the best way to chop a filter.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/13/2010 @ 6:49 AM *

First take a punch to get the nose tip inside the filter. Then take a set of cutting sheers and cut it out like paper hearts.

NICE! back in the 14 saddle! Try not to this one up! Can't wait to see it!~D

Changed the oil and filter. Lotsa metal particles. Little tiny ones in the oil drained from the pan... and some pretty good sized ones in the oil drained from the inside of the filter, after I opened it up. Glad I changed it first thing.

I am with you on this one. Just changed oil/filter the second time @ 700 miles on my ZX-6R. The frist time was at 180 miles and both times the oil sure looked murky. Not dark, just with lots of shiny metal particles. Just point a flaslight to the oil, millions will lit up.
BTW, congrats on you new toy.

New bike for you too, huh? Congrats backatcha! I love the new 6r. Wouldn't mind havin' one in my stable.

All of them I've seen are usually sawed in half lengthwise. Bandsaw would be your best bet, but if you have some time, a hacksaw will work.

Didn't want to go this route. Would have been too hard to distinguish between what was from the engine and what was from cutting the filter open.

Never got around to cutting one of mine open

Maybe don't completely open it up... but next time you change your oil, punch a hole in the filter and drain the oil from it into a clean container just for fun. You might be surprised at what you see.

abused from out the gate in a gentleman's break'inn. Pound her softly

First take a punch to get the nose tip inside the filter. Then take a set of cutting sheers and cut it out like paper hearts.

Pretty much how I ended up doing it. Thanks Hub.

NICE! back in the 14 saddle! Try not to this one up

I'm not makin' any promises I can't keep.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 11/13/2010 @ 4:27 PM *

Just get an oil filter cutter, they work great and dont mess up the filter and your findings.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80532/10002/-1

Just get an oil filter cutter, they work great and dont mess up the filter and your findings.

Looks like something I need to add to the toolbox.

I cut apart every filter used on the race car and almost every oil change on the daily drivers. It can let you know of a bearing problem early. Much easier to change bearings before you destroy a motor.

Much easier to change bearings before you destroy a motor.

Yep. Here's what happened to my last 14. There was no fixin' that one!

Just got back from the first ride on the new bike. Only did 20 miles and when I got home I drained out the oil. Lotsa metal flecks and even some red sh*t (thread locker, seating compound?).... after only 20 miles! I will never, ever wait until 600 miles to change the oil in a new Kwacker, as the manual reccomends, again.

Wish I had my camera here to take pics for you guys. Unfortunately, my GF took it with her to Vegas for the weekend.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 11/14/2010 @ 4:19 PM *

Congrats Dogo on yer new baby.I see that engine blast picture...did you EVER find out what caused it?And what am I actually looking at?I'm quite uninformed about engine internals...but...IS that a spark plug sitting in there?

.... after only 20 miles! I will never, ever wait until 600 miles to change the oil in a new Kwacker, as the manual reccomends, again.

Yeah.. agreed! I take new bikes for a methodical 20 mile break-in ride when I first get them to seat the rings. I start by warming thoroughly, then go up thru the gears accelerating and back thru them downshifting and decelerating repeatedly for the entire 20 miles. Each time thru the gears adding a little more throttle and RPM until I have reached about 80-90% of the RPMs in 1st and 2nd anyway. Can't really do it in higher gears... legally anyway. The course I take is 10 miles out and 10 miles back to my garage. Then I drain that oil and swap out the filter. I treat the rest of the "600" mile break in a bit closer to what the OEM recommends. I take it a little easier anyway.. and give the whole bike it's shake down, checking for leaks etc for the next 580 miles. I then do another oil change with filter and run it normal after that. The first 20 miles is all about seating those rings and getting the crap out of the case left behind from the factory assembly.

* Last updated by: motoCycho on 11/14/2010 @ 7:02 PM *

Each time thru the gears adding a little more throttle and RPM until I have reached about 80-90% of the RPMs in 1st and 2nd anyway. Can't really do it in higher gears... legally anyway.

Can't really do it legally in 1 & 2 either but that's the safest way it can be done unless you get the bike to a track or dyno.

Had good luck with my 14 on an gentle break in.

Busa was broke in at peak rpm pretty much the way you described. I rode it progressively softer until I reached 1000 miles. Now I feel comfortable that I can go gentle on it when I want.

I really doubt that it matters a whole lot what kind of break in you do. Following routine/scheduled maintenance is probably what makes the biggest dif .....and you know, these bikes are so tough, I sort of doubt if even that will make my bikes run a whole lot longer than the guy who changes oil once /year and never changes coolant or brake fluid ever. I think being meticulous about maintenance is more important for those people who going run the bike at peak performance.

did you EVER find out what caused it?And what am I actually looking at?I'm quite uninformed about engine internals...but...IS that a spark plug sitting in there?

This pic was taken from further away.

That's the crank and a rod bolt you're looking at in the first pic. That bike was given a soft, by the book break in and meticulously maintained. The oil was changed, with Kawi dino, at 600 and 1500 miles. Then at 3000 miles it was switched over to Mobile 1 4t. Longest it ever went between changes was 3200 miles. So why did it spin a bearing and come apart?... I don't know... but I can't imagine all the sh*t that has come out in the oil changes I've already done to the new bike would have been good for bearing break in.

I take new bikes for a methodical 20 mile break-in ride when I first get them. Then I drain that oil and swap out the filter.

As will I with every new bike I own from here on out.

I can't imagine all the sh*t that has come out in the oil changes I've already done to the new bike would have been good for bearing break in.

The stuff that came out with the oil might have been stuff that just sat in the pan. The particles in the filter stay in the filter. I believe it is best to get rid of it but Most people do not do the first oil change until a couple thousand miles or so.

the stuff you see in the pan --- we've had that discussion recently. Some of it is very likely clutch material and it may continue to ware and leave silver flecks until the day you switch to an after market clutch.

Some of it is very likely clutch material and it may continue to ware and leave silver flecks until the day you switch to an after market clutch.

I'm seein' more gold than silver. Gold = bearings.

The stuff that came out with the oil might have been stuff that just sat in the pan

Exactly why I think it is important to get it outta there.

The particles in the filter stay in the filter.

The filter is trapping larger stuff, but a lot of small sh*t still gets through.

Anyhoo, I'm no expert.