Well, I couldn’t stop staring at that extra inch+ of swingarm behind my rear tire and how much better the bike would look and be maximized for the strip if there were a few extra links in my chain. I tried to do things as cheap as possible, but I also wanted to do it right.

EK 3d gold chain which was only $161 so not bad.
41T Vortex steel sprocket in black (down 1 from stock) $46
Galfer rear rotor I found on sale $125
Hoosier garage chain tool $29.

Never actually changed a motorcycle chain but I do bicycle chains all the time so I watched a couple videos and feel confident I can get this thing on no problem. I figure the front sprocket will be ok with only 1200 miles on the bike. I am considering a metal chain guard to finish it off but we shall see how the web searching goes today.

Will post pics of the progress as parts arrive.

Sounds like a good plan. With your bike color a gold chain should look good. Looking forward to the pics

Aluminum chain guard is happening. Found a steal on one that looks great on the bay. Stay Tuned!

How much do you weigh Archer? I ended up with a 17,39 sprocket combo when I went 8.93 at stock wheelbase.

Ben, you are about 160 suited up?

Who's Ben? I'm around 180 suited.

OOPS My Mistake :) So 180# and 17/39
What would you recommend at 140 and I am SWB. currently running 17/42 going thru the traps at 149.59mph best with most av 146 mph 9.62 I read about moving the clutch to #5 position and waiting to try it as my 60 ft times are dead slow at high 1:60s and I have had clutch just the opposite..

Bike has Schnitz flash
Quick shifter but foot shifting,
Yosh R77 full system
Progressive throttle ( stock lower half then quickturn)
Shenko hookup
Lowered 1 3/4 front 2 in the rear.
Stock suspension, rear rearbound is 2 turns out from closed.

* Last updated by: chrly on 6/20/2016 @ 5:32 PM *

It's tricky giving stock wheelbase launch advice. Some guys prefer being super aggressive off the line and others almost try to bog the bike off the line so it doesn't wheelie. I've always set my clutch lever at its most sensitive position. Meaning as soon as the lever budges the bike is moving. Dropping teeth off the back sprocket allows you to really give it some throttle without immediately snatching the front wheel into the air. You definitely need to try dropping teeth off the rear. I promise you'll like it. I even broke into the 1.49 60' range just before I stretched my bike out.

In 10 months I have only wheelied once and that was a slip of the throttle hand. Normally the front only climbs about ten inches launch and shift. BUT I am trying to stop slipping the clutch so much and get it engaged sooner..
Knowing what you are doing wrong and correcting it is kinda tuff..With my camera running it is easy to tell my action between clutch and throttle totally sucks..Too many years of doing it wrong..:)

* Last updated by: chrly on 6/20/2016 @ 5:38 PM *

Archer. if that is an aluminum guard being made by someone vs one time one item for sale, how about a link?

If your not pulling the wheel every now and then your doing it wrong. :) Find that edge and push it.

In the spirit of economy, if you drop the rear sprocket number of teeth (enough) you can return the new chain and get your $161 back.

I dunno how many teeth you'd have to drop in order to get all of the inch+ of extra wheelbase using the stock chain. Maybe a bunch.

Im about 200 suited right now. 41 seemed an ok choice for the rest of the year since i wont be drag racing. Still learning the bike and its power. Taking more time to be comfortable than my 600 but i am getting there much faster now that the suspension settings are getting close. I am sure the fronts going to lift if i let it fly in first, so 41 for now and then lower next year or over the winter if needed.

Chrly, here is the guard http://www.ebay.com/itm/231215029238

Extrapolator, i did the math and i would have to go 16/38. Didnt seem worth it. Plus i wanted gold and a black sprocket

Thanks Archer...Wrong yrs.

Oh it'll wheelie no problem with 3 teeth missing off the back for sure. It basically just broadens that area of acceleration that is flirting with wheel stand enough that you can carve out a bit of consistency among the chaos each pass.

here is the guard http://www.ebay.com/itm/231215029238

I will post up pics David. Mostly I want it because I think the plastic one looks cheap. However, I have read posts from other members that some sanctioned events like LSR up in wilmingtion ohio require metal chain guards. So, if I ever do want to go to an event last minute, I dont want to be scrambling for parts and making changes to my bike. Far as I know the ZX14r is etched in the metal just like the pic shows. Should know more when it gets here. I can tell you I just got my billet aluminum adjustable kickstand on a slow boat from China for $40 and it is awesome. So the Chinese got the aluminum thing down. Chain breaker/rivet tool showed up last night. Headed to harbor freight today for a $15 angle grinder, still waiting on the rest of the parts.

Chrly, that guard will fit all the way to 2016 if it fits a 2012 or newer.

* Last updated by: darkarcher on 6/21/2016 @ 6:20 AM *

Archer. I just am cautious when ebay application numbers do not sound right.. Just me ....

Couple parts showed up today. Not going to pull the wheel until the new rotor shows up.

far as i got today. Still waiting on the galfer and a couple other surprises.

Getting excited to see it together. What wheels do you have on your bike? Are those stock for the 14Rs?

Might have been up til 2am installing some paint matched wheel stripes :). Rims are stock. Personally would prefer a std 3 spoke. Easier to clean. Rotor never showed up today so probably stalled out till monday evening at the earliest.

* Last updated by: darkarcher on 6/26/2016 @ 12:02 AM *

Good luck with the wheel stripes !! I tried those once...Totally blew it...Not enough patience :)

Here is a sun shot. Rear turned out nice. Now for the front.....