Hello,

I got my bike in Spring, after some others, like a 07 ZX-10R.
It have some issues which I think comes from the factory mapping:
- it feels like it's detuned until 7,5 k rpm (it should be a torque monster from around 3k commanding smooth throttle control, not a somewhat lazy beast rarely showing it's true character)
- off-on throttle transition is jerky
- fuel economy could be a slightly better 'til 5 k rpm cruise - maybe; can't really complain, it already better than the 10R's average, closes in to the sleepy (prev ride) FJR's, ~5,5 liters/100km
...
I'm kindly asking for some help or hints with the Woolich map editor SW, even in form of screenshots, or a bin file with highlighted zones like where is the:
- idle zone (IAP/TPS)
- cruise (steady throttle till 5k)
- deceleration popping
- off-on transition zone 1-4 k rpm
- anything else useful

I use it as a day long curve-hunter when I'm able to go for a ride, so apart frome infrequent blasts, the low and midrange torque much more important.

I ordered the Woolich kit recently, and it will arrive in the coming days.
Anyway, thanks for reading, or for PM-ing me.

L.

I can't be of help with Woolich self tuning but I plan to go that rout as well. I'll be getting my ECU flashed first by Cycle Specialties Performance.

What caught my attention was your description of the bike waking up at about 7000 rpm. I've only had my 2024 up to that rpm once or twice. The first time was just about WOT and I definitely noticed a big leap in power. Oddly, I could hear the stock exhaust which had been drowned out by the wind noise before that. I wouldn't call it frightening but it definitely was unexpected. All I can say for sure is that I looked down at the tach as I rolled off and I had hit 8000 rpm so I'm guessing 7000 rpm is where it livened up. The bike has more than enough power below that but if you can have more, why not?

Personally, I'd record all the stock values and then spend a couple hundred additional bucks and let Chris Moore flash your ECU. Then you should be able to go in there with Woolich and see what he did to the stock values. Tweak as you like. That's my plan.

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Hello Rook!

I'm surprised that you aren't already.. since you did so much improvement or just maintenance to your bike - while making some very good manuals for the forum.. ;)

I had a Speed Triple, which had a free ECU flashing software (TuneECU) and OBD interface, so reading and writing was easy, and that ECU also had two AFR tables which made easy to make a tune that uses the O2 sensor data to keep the cruise (light load) lean but with liveable transition from that ECO but somewhat less responsible state to fully reactive to the throttle. And because of the OBD, I was able to log some values (rpm, AFR, etc) from rides, to see how my tune works in certain situations.

The Woolich software or even the Mitsubishi ECU seems to lack that tables, so it will need a different approach and/or it also needs some dyno tuning too if one aims peak torque/hp. On our own we have to lean on carb jetting symptoms and knowledge like that to see if the fueling around right. (for example it's leaner than should if we close the throttle on harder acceleration and it pulls for a moment before engine braking and that symptom exists on EFI engines too)

7k rpm: when the ZX14 arrived around 2006, I've seen a video that the secondary flies didn't even budged 'till 7000 RPM - and while I have the '08-11 version, it seems to behave like that, and 'till that RPM it pulls but I would say it pulls less than my former '07 ZX-10R, and also somewhat lagging fashion. Which still enough, but not that crispy, very throttle reactive way. So the bike feels too tame. (but also remember that around 2006 some drag race star said about the removed flies that it made the 14 so wild by the huge torque jump that it was spun the wheel or wanted to flip back at race start so it became uselessly wild)
Back to 7k: when a few times rolled the throttle and had the time (higway with guardrails and fence, so didn't had to watch the field for deers, etc) to watch the tach and the feel it is very noticeable how harder it accelerates - while on lesser bikes you know that above 220-240 km/h acceleration can start to taper off because air drag, and also this extra pull isn't the characteristic of an inline-4 which when it starts to pull it pulls somewhat linear fashion. So for me it seems obvious that's the secondaries work. - And if you watch Brock's series about the gixxer 1000 (or the zx10?) tuning to max on the dyno back from a few years ago, the factory made it's tune to close back the secondaries limiting the power output to around 150 HP, while the end result was around 200. On our bikes the secondaries use is more like to keep the brute force away.

What you say, to have the ECU flashed by a pro - or have the autotune kit is a smart way, but IMHO you shouldn't need to tweak then, only if you like to tinker. (read about Romans's, CBlast's and other flashes here how better they felt for most people who had them) I like to tinker and learn and sadly(?) I already ordered the basic kit (hopefully arrives next week), so will see by the results that I can figure it out (to make the on-off throttle transition, decel pop, etc. gone), or I'll look for a mail-in flash.

Thanks for stopping by, you're a "legend" for me in this forum :)

7k rpm: when the ZX14 arrived around 2006, I've seen a video that the secondary flies didn't even budged 'till 7000 RPM - and while I have the '08-11 version, it seems to behave like that, and 'till that RPM it pulls but I would say it pulls less than my former '07 ZX-10R, and also somewhat lagging fashion. Which still enough, but not that crispy, very throttle reactive way. So the bike feels too tame. (but also remember that around 2006 some drag race star said about the removed flies that it made the 14 so wild by the huge torque jump that it was spun the wheel or wanted to flip back at race start so it became uselessly wild)

It's been so many years since i rode my 08 ZX-14 and so many other things have happened, I don't remember the exact rpm but the stock bike definitely had two plateaus in power. Removing the flies made no real difference. I believe the fueling needed to be adjusted to accommodate the fly removal and that seemed to be what was achieved when I got a map from a great tuner we had on here named Romans. The throttle response was very linear after switching to his AFR map. Additional tuning with Dynojet equipment reduced the low rpm/small throttle pause the bike had since new. I also achieved smooth power from 2000 rpm even with WOT. Although that's not very useful in everyday riding, it's cool the engine can do it. So I suspect the flies removed on the Gen2 will open the gate to full control of the engines power too. It seems pretty elementary, the flies are there to soften power delivery so eliminating them is the way to get access to all of the power. We're probably going to need to adjust the fueling to match the additional air that's coming in with the secondary flies removed. The 06-07 bikes probably had richer fueling down low so just pulling the flies made a big difference. The 08-11 bikes were probably fueled more precisely for stock configuration so you could have more of the power down low but not all of it. As far as I can tell, the Gen2 operates just a tad better even with flies in but when you hit that 7000 rpm mark, you feel what full power is supposed to be. ....although, you already have ridiculous power below that. There's exactly why the manufacturer designed the low end limitations on the bike, it's a monster even when it's restricted. Of course, those of us who dare need to know what it's like unrestricted. Personally, I think if you're respecting the bike as it comes from the factory, you shouldn't have a problem eliminating the restrictions but there's those who don't have the sense to use the power even when it's restricted. That's why the flies are in there. It's actually a small buffer but there are those owners who need that to save themselves from themself.

I plan to get in with Chris Moore and learn the secrets like I did with Romans on my Gen1. It's still a great bike and extremely capable even completely stock but there's more there to be had and I might as well have it.

Self tuning on the road is a process that replaces dyno tuning. In practice, I think road tuning is the best tuning but it's extremely risky. It is fascinating though. As I see it, tuning efficacy goes in this order: map, dyno, self tune. You self tune for a race day but you already got it pretty close with the other means. It's fine to leap straight into self tuning but you need to find perfection yourself where a professional tuner already knows what he's looking for and some way to get there. You also have to go extremely fast for very long periods of time with self tuning (as is the case for small throttle tuning up into the high rpm) and that's unsafe on the road. I did it, I had a few incidences where I narrowly missed getting arrested and once had something really scary happen with the bike at 160 mph. Then I hit a deer at 70 while just out riding and that told me, the odds will come up not in your favor eventually....as is the case for everything but we're talking something that's fairly risky even at low speed. So I'd say a dyno with an experienced tuner is the best place to start. Doing the refinements is intriguing but just have a safe place to do it.

It's really flattering to be a legend to someone. I'm just full of enthusiasm. Maybe I'm a little gateway to the real legends but that's just because of my interest.

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One can see how much how-tos can be thanked for you. :)

For road testing and tuning in mind I would ordered the full kit with logbox & Zeitronix, but I don't really need more peak power, nor I think my seat of pants dyno could tell the difference. You're also right as there's so much happening at speed to split concentration between the road, dash, throttle amount and the engine. I got in touch with a dyno guy, who I can visit for tuning. But he only have an inertia dyno, if I could choose any then I would go to to the Factory Pro like dyno with the Eddy-current brake at set rpms and 4/5 gas exhaust gas analyzer - they tune to CO and best power, not just a target AFR.

I envy you for the Chris Moore "school" option, because it would be much easier to start if someone knows the fundamentals of each table.
Hopefully the kit arrives soon, I have paid the tariffs today. Then I will back up the current settings from the ECU, then start with STP, and so on, always with a new file to write. (with the Triumph's OBD it was a piece of cake, a few times I just stopped the bike on the side of the road and written the previous tune back to the ECU if I didn't liked the newest test version - from my smartphone... I'm curious how complicated will be the WR flash.

Sadly the WR software which one already can check out after paid for the kit, doesn't allow any other gen's ECU content to be checked out , only the bought model's. And on the web no trace of any bin from others to download and check out.
Of course I will report back if there will be some positive results.

(with the Triumph's OBD it was a piece of cake, a few times I just stopped the bike on the side of the road and written the previous tune back to the ECU if I didn't liked the newest test version - from my smartphone.

I used a small laptop that was velcroed to my fuel tank with the Dyno Jet setup I had.

Ah, I see your Hungarian! I'm a bit of that too. My grandmother said her relatives called it Austria-Hungary at the time. Do you eat goulash? Gramma made a great goulash out of hamburger and ketchup because that's all they had during the Great Depression. I now use a recipe that is probably more authentic. Beef, tomatoes, leaks, carrots, sour cream and of course, lots of paprika with a little ground clove. Maybe I'll make some this weekend.

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Sadly the WR software which one already can check out after paid for the kit, doesn't allow any other gen's ECU content to be checked out , only the bought model's.

I was under the impression that the WR software was not only specific to the model and year of the bike but also it's paired to the one and only ECU of the bike it was purchased for. If you want to use it with two 14Rs, you need to pay twice to gain clearance for each bike. If that is true, I can live with it. Hopefully there is no licensing term on WR software. I'd like to pay once and keep it forever.

Please keep us updated on your experience with WR software.

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If you have some Hungarian blood - or maybe just the stomach ;) - maybe I can help you more with recipes than with Woolich tuning :D
I also like to eat goulash - we call it goulash soup, but my favorite is "marhapörkölt" which also made from beef, but without adding water (maybe some red wine), and it's beef with onions, tomatoes and paprika plus of course some spices. The end result is a sauce like mass, very thick, and the vegetables completely 'disintegrated'.

Today the WR stuff arrived, but I haven't had the time to tinker with it.
About it: they told it can be installed on three computers max, and one ECU per license - so for example you can buy the kit and use it with your ECU unlimited times, or if you have a friend with another ZX14 (or any bike/model which is compatible with the kit), then you just buy an additional license (~ $100) , so another ECU can be written for unlimited times. If you have some other Kawa models with Mitsubishi ECU, but needs differend cable /harness/ then you just purchase the optional harness(ess) for the kit, not a full kit for each model.
My EU spec bike had one-way screws on the toolbox, so to access the ECU for it's serial number (what you will need to know to be able to order the correct kit for your bike) was a bit complicated, I hope the rest will be plug and play.

Mmmmm - marhapörkölt sounds mighty tasty!

Keep us informed on your experience with Woolich. It would be nice to see some pics if you can. I had digital gauges on my LCD-200 which was Dyno Jet's predecessor to the POD-300. The throttle percent gauge and AFR gauge were things I used all the time for tuning.

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Yesterday I took apart the bike a bit since I have not found the second diag plug on the wire harness - lifted up the fuel tank and still not found so I was a bit sad and thought that maybe I'll need additional harness. But today after work in daylight I found that plug well hidden below the fuel tank on the left side of the subframe attached to a small metal holder. Truth is I checked in the office a few wire harnesses on the ebay since the wiring diagram in the SM doesn't help in how far from the ECU connectors and from the first one.

After that it was a piece of cake, connected, then to my laptop, turned the ignition on, read the ECU's contents, saved, then modded: for my bike ('08-'11) there's only one shared map exist, which is dyno tuned and more (hopefully it is okay, so I copied the fueling (IAP and TPS table) into my duplicated original, also modified the STP (secondaries) opening, modifying to open earlier then copying the 6th gear table values to all other gears tables - except neutral. Removed the top speed limiter as I want to check top speed someday, reduced the temp when the fan will kick in.
Tomorrow I'll test ride it, trying not expect too much of a change - but of course I hope that power will come earlier than 7k rpm...
(and put some photos here, but they're on my phone).

(Rook, I will translate that pörkölt recipe for you someday :) )

But today after work in daylight I found that plug well hidden below the fuel tank on the left side of the subframe attached to a small metal holder.

I know exactly which one you are talking about, beneath the seat on the left. I removed the bracket on my gen1 and fastened it with a zip tie.

Rook, I will translate that pörkölt recipe for you someday

I WILL cook it! It sounds like it would be perfect for a crockpot but I'd go with whatever the traditional recipe recommends.

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Hello,

In short, my first ECU mod wasn't a big success story, I mean nothing to write home about. Fuel consumption in a 700 km weekend ride as usual (5,3 liters/100km), so any change I made not resulted in more power or more aggressive reaction to the throttle.
Next move will be reduced to open STP much earlier in all gears, and give less fuel in the IAP map but not in the TPS in the region of 3k-6k RPM (to have a bit better mileage in cruise). Since I don't really know the exact cells to edit, will be a trial & error. In theory the unmodified TPS map will ensure that I'm not leaning out the acceleration 'mode'.

The connectors: the easy to find one is below the pillion seating on the right, beside the ECU, but the other one was below the fuel tank , beside the frame on the left side, very well hidden.

* Last updated by: Laczi on 9/26/2025 @ 7:16 AM *

If you want to know your cruising cells, just operate the throttle in Neutral. Whatever rpm it runs at at any given throttle position is the cell that will be in use for cruising at same throttle position and rpm. It's a good way to learn how to tune the cruising range but I did the same thing on the roadside with a Dynojet setup. Then you get the bike moving so the air passing through the radiator cools it down.

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My tuning didn't make a huge difference from the pretty good map i was given by a friend. The areas that were not tuned (2000 to 3000 rpm) were dramatically improved. The bike became useable at that low of an rpm if you wanted to run it that low.

The bike runs great stock. Are you going to improve much on that? Probably not. If you put a full system on the bike, that only adds a little more power if you tune for it. You'll notice the improvement of tuning if you race and measure success by tenths of a second. If you put some real power adders on the bike, thats where you'll see it run properly with proper tuning. Stock or basic mods, it already runs pretty good. If there's nothing to fix, tuning doesn't make much difference.

I'd look into timing restrictions and flies but for gosh sakes, when do you really need thatextra power Kaw is holding back? I want to have it just to have it but darne if I'll ever use it unless the bike is pointed in a straight line and I want to go for all its got. It's good to know you have all the power but you're comparing to almost all the power without tuning and lets face it, most of us won't notice nor can we use more power.

I'm still in favor of tuning everything to the best it can be but in my experience, that's a lot better than my riding skills require for most purposes.

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Thanks Rook for the cruise tip, I'll look into it before flash the next one.
On the Triumph it was easy, as there were target AFR and engine load tables, so subtracting some fuel from the too rich oem mapping was a piece of cake.
The main goal with the Kaw is the same: to optimize fuel consumption if possible - like 5% at most. (stock 42-44 MPG when touring in the twisties, which tells that I'm not using most of the horsepower available most of the time)
The secondary goal is not extra power, but responsiveness in the midrange not just around and above ~7k rpm. The '06 10R come to life (pulled hardish) from 4k to the end. The 14 feels like the 10R's sleepy brother, especially in the midrange, but when it reaches the right spot in the ECU tables, it pulls like it rearended by a freight train. I just want that throttle-attached, proportionally similar feeling. I don't remember that I had to use the (100 mph-ish) first gear on the 10R for not having enough thrust, but the 14 sometimes just don't like to work down low - which seems unnatural with a big engine like this. I also don't remeber that I had to use 2nd gear on the 10R to pass some slow cars from slow speed.

Your tuning was with a Power Commander, right? Or you had a remapped ECU?

I used a Poer Commander 5 with Auto Tune.

I've felt a sudden increase in power around 6000 rpm and my friend who owns the same year 14R said that too before I ever mentioned it to him. My 08 also had a rise in power at about 6000 rpm but it also had a little burst of power somewhat lower, maybe around 3000 rpm. What you're describing sounds like the secondary throttle plates restriction in the 06-07 ZX-14s. I'm told those bikes were very weak below 6000 rpm but they had enough extra fuel to make a nice improvement just by taking the secondary flies out.

I don't know how much AFR tuning will help our Gen2s. If the fueling is factory tuned to the secondary flies, the amount of air you have to work with is determined by the secondary flies. I'd be surprised if Kaw tuned the 14R rich in the zone where the flies would be only partially open. Ecological standards have gotten stricter. If anything, Kawasaki would tune leaner to meet these standards. You can take the flies out and then tune for the unrestricted intake. That was done with the 06-07 models fairly often. I removed the flies on my 08 and it made no difference at all with the first map I used. The second map I used was better. I can't say I noticed any startling increase in power but the power delivery was perfectly linear through the rev range after AFR tuning using the second map I tried as a base map.

Try tuning it with flies in first. If that yields no appreciable improvement, you can take the flies out and tune it that way. You should use Autotune to find the best fuel adjustments. I'm sure Woolich offers this. It's another expense but you'll know you're not testing out adjustments that are too lean or rich. If you just edit the map manually, you're only guessing.

Take home pont: I think it's your secondary flies causing the low power low to midrange. Once you eliminate that, then you can make the proper fueling adjustments. I wouldn't want to do any guesswork in tuning for flies out, especially not on a newer ZX-14.

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Just reporting back:
One thing I don't understand: the WR software shows map 0 and map 1 everywhere in the tables, and since this bike don't have mode switch, I'm not sure, which one the ECU uses - and found, that some 0/1 map tables differ.

There's only one share available for me/my model on the Woolich MapShare which is not stock. "Andy" made it in NZ. He advanced the ignition too and says it's for Akrapovic full system and 98 octane.
Since my first mod on the stock bin not resulted in anything to mention, I took Andy-s tables, removed the IGN advance since it can cause more problems if it's too much by 3 degrees than if it's retarded or stock (checked a tuner video on dyno changing ING on the fly and graphing how it changes tq). Took some fuel out in the IAP table @ cruise region (as you told me Rook, the rpm range & IAP value the diag screen shown in neutral).
This shared map had some enriched cells in fuel tables, and still had the oem fuel trims in trim/gear tables.
All in all, it made some noticeable difference, but at shutting off (decel) the throttle, got some funny/unwanted effects. And while it opens the STP sooner than stock, still not felt the effect I wanted.

So I edited again, this time removed all more rich than oem values in lesser rpm/TPS cells, but it had some decreasing then increasing (by rpm) fuel values in wot region (the highest TPS % columns @ upper rpm region), and thought that if the engine happy with x amount of fuel @ 7k rpm, then why it would do any good if it gets less for example @ 8k... then more again @ 10 k rpm? So I filled those gaps. Opened up the STP-s way earlier (since I'm smooth with the throttle I won't crack 100% from say 10%) , took a few percent more fuel @ IAP cruise & went for a ride again. And voila: even if I made things less than optimal, the feel was the opposite: now I have usable torque to use 6th @ 1500 rpm (we can't talk about acceleration there, but if I just roll off for slowing down for a town, and the terrain/road is level, now the engine happy keeping the rpm without any fuss, of course if accel needed soon, then any gear that rises rpm above 2k rpm comes)

The engine now feels like it should: attached and reacting to the throttle in about the same way as my former 10R, R1 - I removed STPs from both. Fuel consumption went up a bit (but very consistent per tank), but since it was cold & started the trip a bit late, I took the highway to reach the twisties where I used 3rd-4th at most of the time.
I got a bike that smoothly reacts, on-off transition also very smooth - no need to wait for the jerk/jump, it is seamless 99% of the cases (and 1% is more like a rider error). I also did not felt the "turbo kicks in" effect a single time - which was exciting when it came a very few times (when the real power kicked in with OEM maps) but shouldn't exist on an inline-4. I'm very content. :) (even if I made the engine lose some power, the rest is very useable)

What's laughable, that the result came more from shooting in the dark, than hard work & research.
Of course will experiment some more & maybe later/next season I will go to the dyno guy to fine tune.

* Last updated by: Laczi on 10/5/2025 @ 1:39 AM *

I also did not felt the "turbo kicks in" effect a single time

That's how I'd describe my 08 at somewhere around 2500 rpm. I usually wasn't riding at that low of an rpm but taking off from a stop, the bike ran through that zone briefly. If I was on the throttle hard, it was a little scary to have that power come on while leaned into a hard righthand turn.

I'm glad you got the bike to respond the way you want it. It will be valuable to see the AFR numbers, especially in the higher revs.

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Once I've ridden a gen1 zx-10R that had a huge power spike @ 6k rpm, which felt unsafe for having no riding gear on.
A lesser version of that kicked in with the 14 with oem mapping around 160 km/h while accelerating, and it felt very very intense pull, almost lifting the front, the kind make you hang on.
With the WR kit I hoped that effect for every handful, but thats just for thrill, like when long time ago had a CR250 2-stroke, which was so wild, that it made sure I never felt that I'm close or have full control.
But the mentioned result, the more and very controllable lower rpm pull far more important, especially if we ride over some bump what causes a sudden throttle input and a loss of grip/control.

Your '08 did that every time around 2500 rpm? With modified STP table?
I hoped/suspected that STP will be my bigger part of my Holy Grail because I've seen Brocks gixxer serie, how STP settings can kill tens of topend hp-s, but this vid also tells a story (dyno graph incl.) how much restriction can STP be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkjKFwbX2ZQ - around 5:40 .
Found this one interesting too ~8:50: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEkTREbjbzQ

My next mod will be some more (but very little) cruise leaning (pipe ends were sooty with earlier remap, now they're clean like my ex-R1's exhaust tips were), and a bit more earlier STP opening. (screenshots as req'd)
I want the best (safe) economy for cruise, combined with good, controllable, but instant throttle reaction, and big fat midrange. Top end power as you said more than enough and apart from a few top speed runs not really used.

You're also right to know about AFR numbers, what I know from the dyno test (the guy still not sent me the graph) that it was fine, he checked with a wideband sniffer, and 172 HP on the wheel (which is about right for the bike but since the numbers can differ between dynos and corrections used or not used, I don't really care - here's some interesting thoughts: http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html ).

Your '08 did that every time around 2500 rpm? With modified STP table?

I was using a Power Commander so no ECU adjustments were made except fueling. I removed the STPs after the first few months of buying the bike new though. There was no real noticeable change with the flies removed so I assumed the fueling must need to be adjusted to match the increased airflow at low rpm. I bought a PC5 with a map for a stock 2008 with flies removed. The map was loaded by the seller. I have a feeling it was just a simple Dynojet map which had a reputation for not being aggressive at all. I could feel no real difference from stock. I next used a map made by the tuner I bought my full system exhaust from. The map was for a 2008 ZX-14 with Tsukigi CANNON race exhaust, BMC air filter and flies out which was my exact bike. I still felt the increase in power at 3000 rpm and then again at 6000 rpm. You had to be on the throttle just a bit aggressively to feel it but it was still there like always. Then I used a map from one of our old members who is a builder/tuner and that was a noticeable improvement over the previous maps. The map was for flies out and I believe it was an Akrapovic full system where I was running Tsukigi. The power delivery was very linear. I went on to fine tune that map using Autotune. To be honest, the bike was a bit less exciting to ride without the power spikes but I was happy to know I had all the power possible at lower rpm. Also, the 3000 rpm power jump might have been dangerous taking off quick into a hard turn. You're going to hit 3000 rpm before you complete the turn and it was quite alarming with the bike still leaned over. Yes, I remember the exhaust note jumping in pitch as though the throttle had been edged open but it hadn't. SO "no," no flash, no STP adjustments but the bike had no STPs. It still had the lag associated with the STPs exactly as if they were still in. That was eliminated by fuel map changes after the flies were removed.

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Rook, it seems that our experiences similar: a bit more power down low and mid, but delivery is linear. On my '08, I haven't noticed any jump (3k and 6k), and a bit miss the oem surge/punch (wow factor - but only in straight line acceleration).

With my newest mod I clearly made the cruise a bit leaner, the engine happy but since leaned the TPS table too, have to give a slightly more throttle input to make it accelerate hard (around 4k rpm), and at decel sometimes it's noticeable how the engine braking changes, but none of those seemed problematic in a short 50 km test ride, lost a little bit of linearity down there - just like on the Speed Triple which had a table AFR / Engine load: you just feel when switch between accel/cruise. Not bad just not seamless.
I will clear the leaning in the TPS tables to see if the switching will gone between cruise and accel, and also think about trying to lean the cruise with the fuel trim in the per gear table next to STP tables - then I can have the most linearity in the lower gears for the twisties, and only lean for cruise in sixth between 100-160 km/h and maybe in 4th 45-60 km/h (in town). Next time I will ride without the exhaust silencing inserts, to see if changes anything in the upper region.

Just a report back.
I ordered a Healtech Speedohealer, and put it in with -7.5% correction, so finally the speedo doesn't lie.
With the tunes I've leaned my 3rd one further, making that rpm range ( <4000 ) almost useless - it was a test how far I got from the limit, then I returned to the 2nd which I've mentioned before, the linear one. Modded it with even more STP opening. The bike's throttle-engine connection now reminds me much the ZX-10R's, it is instant. The only side effect that I "disabled" engine braking almost completely: closing the throttle after acceleration doesn't result in engine braking. It's weird but it's not because RPM hangs up. Also, the engine purrs nicely even below 1500 rpm in 6th - definitely the STP made it reluctant in OEM setup.
Sadly, cold season coming, maybe a few rides, and end of this season. Hoped for a top speed test run (I did it with every bike I had out of curiosity - with the 14 I'm hoping for 300+ kmph (GPS) - and then forget about and just ride them normal sportbike speeds on B-roads)

We just got rid of the STPs in the Gen1 altogether. To tell you the truth, I didn't notice a huge difference with my 08 that opened the STPs earlier than the 06-07. Maybe I mentioned it earlier, I still felt the STP sensation AFTER the STPs were removed. It must have been fueling related on my bike. After a good base map and some road tuning, it smoothed right out. I never lost engine braking.

It will be interesting to see what I do with the flies in my Gen2. If I can have them flashed open at all rpm, I'll probably do that.

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