Hello,

I got my bike in Spring, after some others, like a 07 ZX-10R.
It have some issues which I think comes from the factory mapping:
- it feels like it's detuned until 7,5 k rpm (it should be a torque monster from around 3k commanding smooth throttle control, not a somewhat lazy beast rarely showing it's true character)
- off-on throttle transition is jerky
- fuel economy could be a slightly better 'til 5 k rpm cruise - maybe; can't really complain, it already better than the 10R's average, closes in to the sleepy (prev ride) FJR's, ~5,5 liters/100km
...
I'm kindly asking for some help or hints with the Woolich map editor SW, even in form of screenshots, or a bin file with highlighted zones like where is the:
- idle zone (IAP/TPS)
- cruise (steady throttle till 5k)
- deceleration popping
- off-on transition zone 1-4 k rpm
- anything else useful

I use it as a day long curve-hunter when I'm able to go for a ride, so apart frome infrequent blasts, the low and midrange torque much more important.

I ordered the Woolich kit recently, and it will arrive in the coming days.
Anyway, thanks for reading, or for PM-ing me.

L.

I can't be of help with Woolich self tuning but I plan to go that rout as well. I'll be getting my ECU flashed first by Cycle Specialties Performance.

What caught my attention was your description of the bike waking up at about 7000 rpm. I've only had my 2024 up to that rpm once or twice. The first time was just about WOT and I definitely noticed a big leap in power. Oddly, I could hear the stock exhaust which had been drowned out by the wind noise before that. I wouldn't call it frightening but it definitely was unexpected. All I can say for sure is that I looked down at the tach as I rolled off and I had hit 8000 rpm so I'm guessing 7000 rpm is where it livened up. The bike has more than enough power below that but if you can have more, why not?

Personally, I'd record all the stock values and then spend a couple hundred additional bucks and let Chris Moore flash your ECU. Then you should be able to go in there with Woolich and see what he did to the stock values. Tweak as you like. That's my plan.

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Hello Rook!

I'm surprised that you aren't already.. since you did so much improvement or just maintenance to your bike - while making some very good manuals for the forum.. ;)

I had a Speed Triple, which had a free ECU flashing software (TuneECU) and OBD interface, so reading and writing was easy, and that ECU also had two AFR tables which made easy to make a tune that uses the O2 sensor data to keep the cruise (light load) lean but with liveable transition from that ECO but somewhat less responsible state to fully reactive to the throttle. And because of the OBD, I was able to log some values (rpm, AFR, etc) from rides, to see how my tune works in certain situations.

The Woolich software or even the Mitsubishi ECU seems to lack that tables, so it will need a different approach and/or it also needs some dyno tuning too if one aims peak torque/hp. On our own we have to lean on carb jetting symptoms and knowledge like that to see if the fueling around right. (for example it's leaner than should if we close the throttle on harder acceleration and it pulls for a moment before engine braking and that symptom exists on EFI engines too)

7k rpm: when the ZX14 arrived around 2006, I've seen a video that the secondary flies didn't even budged 'till 7000 RPM - and while I have the '08-11 version, it seems to behave like that, and 'till that RPM it pulls but I would say it pulls less than my former '07 ZX-10R, and also somewhat lagging fashion. Which still enough, but not that crispy, very throttle reactive way. So the bike feels too tame. (but also remember that around 2006 some drag race star said about the removed flies that it made the 14 so wild by the huge torque jump that it was spun the wheel or wanted to flip back at race start so it became uselessly wild)
Back to 7k: when a few times rolled the throttle and had the time (higway with guardrails and fence, so didn't had to watch the field for deers, etc) to watch the tach and the feel it is very noticeable how harder it accelerates - while on lesser bikes you know that above 220-240 km/h acceleration can start to taper off because air drag, and also this extra pull isn't the characteristic of an inline-4 which when it starts to pull it pulls somewhat linear fashion. So for me it seems obvious that's the secondaries work. - And if you watch Brock's series about the gixxer 1000 (or the zx10?) tuning to max on the dyno back from a few years ago, the factory made it's tune to close back the secondaries limiting the power output to around 150 HP, while the end result was around 200. On our bikes the secondaries use is more like to keep the brute force away.

What you say, to have the ECU flashed by a pro - or have the autotune kit is a smart way, but IMHO you shouldn't need to tweak then, only if you like to tinker. (read about Romans's, CBlast's and other flashes here how better they felt for most people who had them) I like to tinker and learn and sadly(?) I already ordered the basic kit (hopefully arrives next week), so will see by the results that I can figure it out (to make the on-off throttle transition, decel pop, etc. gone), or I'll look for a mail-in flash.

Thanks for stopping by, you're a "legend" for me in this forum :)

7k rpm: when the ZX14 arrived around 2006, I've seen a video that the secondary flies didn't even budged 'till 7000 RPM - and while I have the '08-11 version, it seems to behave like that, and 'till that RPM it pulls but I would say it pulls less than my former '07 ZX-10R, and also somewhat lagging fashion. Which still enough, but not that crispy, very throttle reactive way. So the bike feels too tame. (but also remember that around 2006 some drag race star said about the removed flies that it made the 14 so wild by the huge torque jump that it was spun the wheel or wanted to flip back at race start so it became uselessly wild)

It's been so many years since i rode my 08 ZX-14 and so many other things have happened, I don't remember the exact rpm but the stock bike definitely had two plateaus in power. Removing the flies made no real difference. I believe the fueling needed to be adjusted to accommodate the fly removal and that seemed to be what was achieved when I got a map from a great tuner we had on here named Romans. The throttle response was very linear after switching to his AFR map. Additional tuning with Dynojet equipment reduced the low rpm/small throttle pause the bike had since new. I also achieved smooth power from 2000 rpm even with WOT. Although that's not very useful in everyday riding, it's cool the engine can do it. So I suspect the flies removed on the Gen2 will open the gate to full control of the engines power too. It seems pretty elementary, the flies are there to soften power delivery so eliminating them is the way to get access to all of the power. We're probably going to need to adjust the fueling to match the additional air that's coming in with the secondary flies removed. The 06-07 bikes probably had richer fueling down low so just pulling the flies made a big difference. The 08-11 bikes were probably fueled more precisely for stock configuration so you could have more of the power down low but not all of it. As far as I can tell, the Gen2 operates just a tad better even with flies in but when you hit that 7000 rpm mark, you feel what full power is supposed to be. ....although, you already have ridiculous power below that. There's exactly why the manufacturer designed the low end limitations on the bike, it's a monster even when it's restricted. Of course, those of us who dare need to know what it's like unrestricted. Personally, I think if you're respecting the bike as it comes from the factory, you shouldn't have a problem eliminating the restrictions but there's those who don't have the sense to use the power even when it's restricted. That's why the flies are in there. It's actually a small buffer but there are those owners who need that to save themselves from themself.

I plan to get in with Chris Moore and learn the secrets like I did with Romans on my Gen1. It's still a great bike and extremely capable even completely stock but there's more there to be had and I might as well have it.

Self tuning on the road is a process that replaces dyno tuning. In practice, I think road tuning is the best tuning but it's extremely risky. It is fascinating though. As I see it, tuning efficacy goes in this order: map, dyno, self tune. You self tune for a race day but you already got it pretty close with the other means. It's fine to leap straight into self tuning but you need to find perfection yourself where a professional tuner already knows what he's looking for and some way to get there. You also have to go extremely fast for very long periods of time with self tuning (as is the case for small throttle tuning up into the high rpm) and that's unsafe on the road. I did it, I had a few incidences where I narrowly missed getting arrested and once had something really scary happen with the bike at 160 mph. Then I hit a deer at 70 while just out riding and that told me, the odds will come up not in your favor eventually....as is the case for everything but we're talking something that's fairly risky even at low speed. So I'd say a dyno with an experienced tuner is the best place to start. Doing the refinements is intriguing but just have a safe place to do it.

It's really flattering to be a legend to someone. I'm just full of enthusiasm. Maybe I'm a little gateway to the real legends but that's just because of my interest.

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