Why did you have your ECU flashed;
What were you looking for?
How did it 'deliver' what did it do for
the bike, what did it get rid of, what did it add?

.....Asking for a friend.

Here's some reading for you.
I've known Ivan for many years and could go on and on, but there's a lot of info on his website.
Happy to answer your questions after you check his site out.
https://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/index.htm
Hank

I had mine flashed soon after I added a brocks exhaust removed teh top speed limiter. We gained approx 10 hp with the flash and exhaust. Then next year we checked a Yoshimura SS against the Brocks Alien SS about 1 1/2 hp diff same day run On the Dyno sheet.
We also had added a PC5 ( IIRC) to be able to tune the exhausts.

* Last updated by: chrly on 10/21/2025 @ 4:58 PM *

''I had mine flashed soon after I added a brocks exhaust removed teh top speed limiter. We gained approx 10 hp with the flash and exhaust. Then next year we checked a Yoshimura SS against the Brocks Alien SS about 1 1/2 hp diff same day run On the Dyno sheet.
We also had added a PC5 ( IIRC) to be able to tune the exhausts.'' Chrly

I plan to add Delkevi 17'' or 13.5'' slip ons, probably nothing else
I don't think I need a pc or flash for one of these slip ons.
Do you have any advice on one of the sizes I mentioned
over the other?
--
I'm hoping to mitigate
or end the fuel drop offs
when I go to upshift (EU4,5 Emissions bs),
I can get a buttery smooth shift from 1st to second
if I shift at low rpm; 2k to 2.4k lol, or 5k on up,
but most of the time I prefer to shift
in the 3000 to 3500 range + -
especially for the lower gears, this gives me
enough torque to get ahead of traffic, without
becoming a spectacle when just trying 'blend in'.
--
I did some testing today and believe I see what they've done
to my bike to satisfy those emissions.
TEST;
If I throttle up to say 3 or 4 thousand rpm, pull the clutch in
and back off the throttle by a mere 1/2 mm , the fuel
drops to just about idle, ,
it won't let me finesse the throttle cuts, it
just wants to drop fuel flat out period.
---
So in summary, I can get smooth shifts, with high rpms
or super low rpms but not in between rpms due to the
fuel cuts at certain mid/low rpms.

HankZX,
Yeah, there is nothing but Praise on the internet
for Ivan, he would be my go-to for the flash.
Thanks for the link, looks like a lot of
boxes ticked, very logical philosophy.

Is an ecu flash the only way to cure the throttle drop off
when clutch lever is pulled in but throttle cable is
held steady?
I did a test today to confirm the issue;
At 3000rpm in 3rd I locked in the throttle and pulled
in the clutch the rpm jumped for to 100ms then
dropped off immediately by a few hundred rpm.
I repeated the test a few time, getting the same
results each time.
I need to fix this, is a flash the only sure cure,
and is it a sure cure?

Stratavarious, is your 14R an EU model? If so, you might need a flash from a tuner who has knowledge of restrictions that don't effect US models. Your test is pretty much exactly how I match engine/gearbox speed for downshifts. I've never had a problem with my 2024 not blipping high enough. ...of course the blip is just a fraction of a second but too but I think I'd have noticed if there was a throttle blip cut. I haven't tried it but I'm sure I could coast on the clutch and rev to my heart's content.

I wish we had Roadtoad around more often because I'm pretty sure his bike needed Australia specific tuning to run at it's best after trying a US flash. OZrevhead and yannih might have some advice about this too.

Yes, so true, we can rev to our 'hearts desire' with clutch in,
though that is not the actual issue here, the issue is that
when I pull the clutch with throttle 'LOCKED',
the ecu goes EU batsht crazy on me and
drops off the cliff, a throttle isn't supposed to just
drop off when you pull a clutch in with throttle
in a locked position, it should rise
a little or a lot depending on the load just released
and never just drop out completely while you're
holding it steady.
As far as US EU, EU 4 AND 5 from everything I've read
effects both EU and US to some extent.
---
If you've ever talked with GSX S1000F owners,
it drives them nuts too, half
of them get ECU flashes right off the bat to get
rid of that horrible feature, though some of the
production runs seem to have been unaffected,
I chose the zx14r hoping that the emissions
ghost hadn't crept into it too.
---
And keep in mind, I'm talking about 3000rpm +-
in lower gears, this is a very specific issue,
as I mentioned in the op or meant to if not,
I can shift out of any gear at 5 or 6k + and
not need to deal with 'the' issue, for engineering/
physics issues I don't understand enough to explain,
but 1/2 the time in town,
I don't want to make an ass out of myself
to the cagers, 2k shifts are fine too, but they
are way to weak for acceleration, the 3 to 4 k range
is just about right for pulling away from a stop,
but a very annoying experience
since the ECU will not allow me to finesse the
throttle or even keep it where it's at between those
lower gear-shits in that rpm range.

If by "locked" you mean you hold the throttle perfectly steady and pull the clutch lever, that's a technique I often use to downshift quickly. It works on my 2024 ZX-14R just as well as my 08 ZX-14 and my 08 Hayabusa. ...or are you talking about something else?

By 'locked' yes , holding the throttle steady
by simultaneously jamming my hand around the end weight or
up against the throttle cluster-housing.