Check out what these idiots are saying on my thread on Zx-10r.net. Not sure if they understand how a CCT works.

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f23/gen-4-question-cct-replacement-319794.html

My 10R had been rattling the cam chain for several thousand miles and I finally got tired of the racket and reset it manually, maybe a one hour job. BTW, this is a very common issue with the Gen 4 ZX-10R, for some reason they never seem to reset.

The Service Manual procedure is correct, if you set the CCT pushrod manually to the correct groove, install the CCT body and then install the pushrod spring and cap, it cannot extend on it's own and overtighten the cam chain as they are claiming. With out the spring installed, unless you manually pull the pushrod or push it out, it will stay put just like the manual says. The book calls for 3 or 4 grooves showing, I went to 5 to take out the slack, very quiet and smooth now.

This is pretty clear, the ratchet pawl in the original setting is just behind the 4th tooth and the cam chain was way too loose, I reset to just behind the 6th tooth, so moved the setting 2 teeth. My reasoning was I wanted to make sure that I got all the slack out and 1 tooth might not be enough. How sensitive is the cam chain to this adjustment? This is a crap design and has been a continuing PITA!

BEFORE

AFTER

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/20/2016 @ 3:33 PM *

You both have your points. Here's what they might not see?
Book says teeth-3-4 out, you went with 6.

1. Chain is loose/broken in, sure more teeth out, why not?
2. When I installed the whole body with 6 out, did the body home to the case? Yes.
3. If the body has no gap from that machined flat face on out, the tensioner hasn't even loaded the slipper to be sticking out.
4. Does the chain whistle as if it had a set of corduroy pants on? No. Then is it quiet? Yes. You're done.

OK, thanks Hub, no chain slap now and no whine so I think all's good. BTW, there's a thread on zx10r.net on the 2016 model, same issue, CCT not resetting, so KHI has not fixed the issue. I noticed yesterday that the CCT part number for my '06 ZX-14 has recently changed, do you know if the new unit corrects the cam chain rattle on startup?

YW. If you noticed the change in number, or the numbers are now in red on some web parts page, yes, updated revision has occurred.

It looks like you took the back bolt off the body? Did you push more plunger into the slipper? Or did you let the engine take up the slack once started?

I should have thought of this yesterday, but say we pull the oring off, run the body into the hole and home it. That's 6 teeth in. Now go to 7 out. Push the body into the hole... did it home itself or stick out once you let go or can't home it... one or the other.

See how 7 was too tight making the body stick out and the chain tension spring back? As long as that oring has memory and can stick out past the body line, consider it sealed you go playing with used orings going on and off. That's how you play that game... oh and this hit me. Run the crank in 4 different positions and see if the plunger moves in closer to home, look at the high and low spots of the chain rung.

I bet the reason the "hit with a screwdriver" technique is popular is because that would [should] automatically make the pushrod extend the proper tension. This how the 14's tensioner is installed. retract pushrod all the way, lock in place, install tensioner to engine case pushrod still locked = 0 tension, remove valve cover insert 14' screwdriver to the outside of the timing gears and into cam chain tunnel against plastic chain guide in line with tensioner pushrod, Give the back of the screwdriver a whack and the tensioner unlocks when it is stuck by the chain guide. STep 11 & 12 here with illustrations CAM CHAIN TENSIONER REMOVAL

In your situation, I would have done what you did. If you sprung it like the zixers are telling you, it probably would have gone right back to 4 teeth out like it was. I might not have advanced two notches but since it's been so long and the thing has never advanced, you're probably ok.

An APE tensioner is dead on. No guesswork. Set while the engine runs.

put a louder pipe on it . loud pipe save lives

Bad move, Rook. Static... Hold ape without oring in place. Set body and home it flat to flat. Screw the ape main center bolt in until the body starts to come out. Unscrew the bolt until the body is just sent home and stop. Tighten the lock nut, remove ape, install oring... Agree we run static instead of running the screw in too far and eat the slipper you can't hear?

Hold ape without oring in place. Set body and home it flat to flat......

Interesting, never thought to try doing it that way.

I have an APE on my zx10.

While doing it this way should you not "rotate" the engine to check
for any high or low spots on the cam chain?

I have the APE out right now doing valve adjust on the the 10, I'll
try adjusting the HUB way and then rotate engine to check if there's
any additional adjust needed like finding the low spot etc.

If there is a low spot that's where I would want the static setting set to, no?

As far as the OEM cam chain adjuster on the 10 it's not that it doesn't
adjust itself, but can actually slip and become loose. Mine has and I do
not trust it all. I believe under "high rev" downshifts it can
unlatch the spring locking mech and cause total failure in the tensioner.

Maybe that's why the race kit has a manual cam chain tensioner.

* Last updated by: piken on 6/22/2016 @ 9:51 AM *

Bad move, Rook. Static... Hold ape without oring in place. Set body and home it flat to flat. Screw the ape main center bolt in until the body starts to come out. Unscrew the bolt until the body is just sent home and stop. Tighten the lock nut, remove ape, install oring... Agree we run static instead of running the screw in too far and eat the slipper you can't hear?

The APE instructions achieve pretty much the same thing. The adjustment with the engine running is a fine tuning procedure. It's pretty much set before you turn the engine on to check it.

While doing it this way should you not "rotate" the engine to check
for any high or low spots on the cam chain?

Yes you turn the crankshaft to find the low spot and yes that is the spot you want to use to set the tensioner. BUT...APE instructions say to tighten at that spot and then back off 1/4 turn. That's how I did it and the CCT was quiet when I turned on to fine tune. I backed it out just a bit and the noise started up so the static adjustment was right on. Have not needed to adjust it since.
APE MANUAL CAM CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALL

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/22/2016 @ 10:23 AM *

Hi-lo spots occur more you time the chain to a new cam sprocket tooth as if the same effect with a drive chain and install the sprocket back to a new wear patter? No. Clean the link, the sprocket at the bottom, take her nail polish and white or yellow are more the colors to retime the cam chain to. Wipe off, move 360 to the 1-4 again and check the other shims. Repaint if the cams need be rolled off to the intake or exhaust side. I roll rather than remove cams.