2013 ZX 14R
I've watched a lot of videos on this,
guys using $700 machines down to the
two-spade/spoon bead breaker with rim protectors
at a combined cost of about 90 bucks.
The machine looks nice, but the MC GARAGE channel
looks like the one I may go with using the
the bead breaker spoons, looks a big more fool proof
even though perhaps needs more muscle/effort. :shrugs:

How would I get air in the tires, when done, my little
cigarette lighter powered compressor isn't probably
going to cut it, right?

Aria says to go with 50/50 mix dish soap to water,
and set tires in sun or with hair dryer in them to
warm them up.

That's about as far as I've gotten with gathering info,
what are y'all doing?

I'm pretty determined to do my own, not so much due to cost,
but I'M reluctant to let another yahooo destroy more
rims like they did on my Gold Wing using a Car tire
machine, in fact I found another mechanic that uses the same,
but has hard rubber protectors on the jaws that clamp
on the rim, looking at that, for me was SO-NOT confidence
building, I don't want any permanent marks on my super clean
rims, and I'm sure be getting some even with those
supposed 'protectors'.

/////////////

Stratovarious-If you can get the bead broken then you can remove and remount the tire using the zip tie method. Do a search on YouTube. I have carbon fiber rims and it is the method I use. Once you get the zip ties all the way around you can remove or mount the tire with a bit of soapy water and your hands.

I've never tried the zip tie method. I've used tire irons, rim protectors and a simple tire mounting stand. The seaweed tire lube sold by Cycle Hill is extremely slippery, more than soap. I've used both. Either way, tire removal and mounting is by far the hardest work I've done in wrenching. It takes me a full day on the ground and my back is fried when I'm done. If you get good at it, it can go very quick. I've done tires five or six times and I'm still not good at it. It's a given you will damage your wheels at least a little. That's why it takes me so long, I'm being as careful as possible to not scrape anything...the rim protectors start sliding around on the lube, the tire gets extremely tight when you get down to the last bites.....it's a PITA!

I was going to buy a high end Cycle Hill tire changing stand and bar next. I hear it's not as easy as it looks in their videos but it's a lot easier than tire irons.

I would try the zip tie method. I don't really recommend tire irons unless you have a set of rims you don't care about to practice on.

When it comes to tires, that's something I still will trust a shop to do if I have 100% confidence in them. There actually is no choice when you change your car tires, no way I'd try that with tire irons. ...but yeah, the first time I had new tires installed, the dealership scraped them. It was like the rim slipped in the clamps. That's why I got a tire stand and irons, I can scrape my own wheels for free.

No, your mini compressor won't be adequate to set the beads of the new tire. That requires a fast rush of high volume, high pressure air. A small pancake compressor worked for me. It doesn't have a large tank but good enough for a motorcycle tire. You also need a ball foot chuck with the valve removed.

https://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=FDACE357-1372-66AE-3B9B1255DBA00FD7

I've had a balancer for years as I never trusted anyone to be as fussy as I am about it. I just bought the Rabaconda changer a few months ago as I can't risk $6,000 BST's to someone who may or may not be capable. It's all a cost vs. risk analysis.
First test was my spare Busa wheel. I've done front and rear Dunlop Q5's, Dunlop DragMax and Mickey Thompson slicks with low effort and zero issues.

* Last updated by: Fordtech58 on 11/1/2025 @ 5:49 AM *

I do it way different now, but a long time ago I made a cheesy video, but it shows some ways to change your tires using minimal tools/cost, it might give you some ideas.

Youtube tire video

{youtube]https://youtu.be/1WWV5QRPY2w[/youtube]

Once you get some basic tools and technique down, it's pretty easy. You will need a compressor.

* Last updated by: piken on 11/1/2025 @ 10:36 AM *

Me:

If you get good at it, it can go very quick.

I believe this is exactly the video I had in mind when I made the above remark. I remember the knees and the green rims.

Maybe I need to practice on a set of rims I don't mind scraping but how I do it, it's a lot more difficult. I'd actually be afraid to put a tire on a CF rim. It required a huge amount of force.

Maybe I need to push with my knees. Maybe the thick plastic bottle rim protectors take up less space than the ones I buy. I tried milk bottle plastic even folded in half and a tire iron will smash through that easily.

I'm not going to stop changing my own tires but in my experience, it's still a risk to your wheels and even a little dangerous to my own safety. I think you're going to be practicing a while before you get that good at it Stratovarious.

The plastic from the cat food containers works really good, tough and pretty thin. The set below probably 12+ tire changes and still in good shape. You might need to buy a cat.

The "yellow thing" tire tool is awesome, it's a must have.

When changing wide, low profile rear tires, it can be hard to keep your knees pushing the bead to the center
of the rim. Using a furring board cut into small blocks you can push down on tire and put the small blocks
between tire and rim to hold the bead down.

That Rabaconda is very cool. Looks nicer then the No-Mar

The "yellow thing" tire tool is awesome, it's a must have.

Several years back, I was just about to spring for a set of BST Rapid TEKs for the busa. A tire changing plan was a must. I looked into the Cycle Hill tire changers thoroughly and the No-Mar bar and Yellow Thing seemed to be the most useful tools.

That Rabaconda is very cool. Looks nicer then the No-Mar

There's a respected member on hayabusa.org who raved about the Rabaconda but now he's not recommending it. He didn't elaborate on why. Looks like you insert a bar and turn the bead pusher around the rim, similar to the No-Mar bar.

My NoMar has been bolted to the garage floor for at least 15 years and it will stay there till I die. I have the room to leave it there but kinda of a tight fit after all that time.

So that means you have no plans to sell that lovely 08 Midnight Sapphire Blue ZX-14? If so, I'll be happy for you Bobby. If you want to make a deal, give me a call. I have money. You could sweep that new busa right out from under me.

Thanks a ton all! I'm NOT GETTING NOTIFICATIONS,
I'd gotten a few, when I joined , then they just
dried up, I assumed no one here ever had to change
a tire.... :smi

I have the bead breaker/spoon two-piece combo set coming,
I looked at some machines, but :shrugs:, not sure if that's
the way to go right now.
I have a front tire on the way, and parts coming, the
project/event :smi will probably commence by fri or sat.

I've never tried the zip tie method. I've used tire irons, rim protectors and a simple tire mounting stand. The seaweed tire lube sold by Cycle Hill is extremely slippery, more than soap. I've used both. Either way, tire removal and mounting is by far the hardest work I've done in wrenching. It takes me a full day on the ground and my back is fried when I'm done. If you get good at it, it can go very quick. I've done tires five or six times and I'm still not good at it. It's a given you will damage your wheels at least a little. That's why it takes me so long, I'm being as careful as possible to not scrape anything...the rim protectors start sliding around on the lube, the tire gets extremely tight when you get down to the last bites.....it's a PITA!

I was going to buy a high end Cycle Hill tire changing stand and bar next. I hear it's not as easy as it looks in their videos but it's a lot easier than tire irons.

I would try the zip tie method. I don't really recommend tire irons unless you have a set of rims you don't care about to practice on.

When it comes to tires, that's something I still will trust a shop to do if I have 100% confidence in them. There actually is no choice when you change your car tires, no way I'd try that with tire irons. ...but yeah, the first time I had new tires installed, the dealership scraped them. It was like the rim slipped in the clamps. That's why I got a tire stand and irons, I can scrape my own wheels for free.

//

Anyone have an amazon link for recommended valve stem replacement?
This is not an easy nut to crack, might be 8mm + - might be 11mm,
might be ........ I'm getting tons of different numbers, and not sure
whether a 90 is actually any safer also alum vs rubber....
I need amazon cause I need to 'hopefully' get parts by fri/sat.....

Since I don't know the rim hole size, nor what
valve stem is the correct match, I'll have pass
on 'new' valve stem for my 2013 ZX14R.
--

I do it way different now, but a long time ago I made a cheesy video, but it shows some ways to change your tires using minimal tools/cost, it might give you some ideas.

Youtube tire video - Piken

LeapFrog

RE: Who's doing their own tire changing, what are you using?
10/31/25 6:41 PM

Stratovarious-If you can get the bead broken then you can remove and remount the tire using the zip tie method. Do a search on YouTube. I have carbon fiber rims and it is the method I use. Once you get the zip ties all the way around you can remove or mount the tire with a bit of soapy water and your hands.

Thanks much for more great info...
I have a compressor ordered with hopefully the right
fittings as well as some zip ties, project still looks to be
on target for fri/sat...I'm only doing the front this week,
and the rear is figured for December.

* Last updated by: Stratovarious on 11/6/2025 @ 5:11 AM *

I got these from Amazon for my Gen1 Busa a few months ago and I'm pretty sure the 14 would be the same. QWORK CNC Motorcycle Tire Valve Stems, 4 Pack 90 Degrees and Alloy Aluminum Valve Air Stems, Diameter 10-11.3mm, Black
Visit the QWORK Store
4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars

RE: Who's doing their own tire changing, what are you using?
11/06/25 6:54 AM

I got these from Amazon for my Gen1 Busa a few months ago and I'm pretty sure the 14 would be the same. QWORK CNC Motorcycle Tire Valve Stems, 4 Pack 90 Degrees and Alloy Aluminum Valve Air Stems, Diameter 10-11.3mm, Black
Visit the QWORK Store
4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars -Fordtech58

Thanks, Ordered, I'll give them a shot.

Would this compressor be perfectly adequate;
FORNAX Pancake Air Compressor, 3 Gallon, 110 PSI Portable Air Compressor, Oil Free.

I would think the Fornax would work just fine. I used a 3 gallon, 100 max psi compressor from Harbor Freight. That's where I got all my attachments and hose too. They work fine for how often I use them.

I don't think it matters how long the url is. I just copied the url, clicked the code icon in the tool bar above the message box and pasted the url.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267365608819?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1nI-rVOpEQkabXNUuASvldw44&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-173151-913341-5&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=267365608819&targetid=2319404999269&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1019392&poi=&campaignid=22884044611&mkgroupid=184229541272&rlsatarget=pla-2319404999269&abcId=10409737&merchantid=113370070&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22884044611&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh_v9sh9SjOlXzmZFdaxHxZq2&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq7HIBhDoARIsAOATDxA_c_H8NBusOBBO2nDLahWTtbgdWsl-mg0AMFVullZMqhq6tcz1jIEaApg_EALw_wcB

^^^it works.

Anyone have an amazon link for recommended valve stem replacement?
This is not an easy nut to crack, might be 8mm + - might be 11mm,
might be ........ I'm getting tons of different numbers, and not sure
whether a 90 is actually any safer also alum vs rubber....
I need amazon cause I need to 'hopefully' get parts by fri/sat.....

I was also confused with the valve stem size. I ended up using Bridgeport size B11 (the neck that fits the hole is 7.6mm in diameter). Motomummy insisted this was wrong and I believe they made me sign a waver to sell them to me. I returned the B12 because they did not fit my stock rims' valve hole. B11 was a loose fit but sealed with the gasket after tightening. Proceed with caution. What you really need to do is get the valve stem out and measure the hole in the rim. Then do your research with vendors of whatever valve stems you want. Can't go wrong ordering a set of OEMs.

IDK if I just had a weird set of stock rims or what? I later purchased Carrazzeria wheels for the Gen1 ZX-14 and Bridgeport B11 fit the hole perfectly. ...not that necessarily matters, all CZ rims might have taken a Bridgeport B11.

A 90° valve stem relies on a nut on the inside of the rim to secure it. You should use Lock-Tite. A rubber valve stem relies on a pressure fit ball to secure it and it's damned near impossible to pull it out, you normally cut them to remove them. I've heard it said centrifugal force can open the valve of a vertical valve stem at very high speed and 90°s eliminate this possibility. I believe this is some kind of old wives tale. A 90° is probably not safer but it is cooler looking. Some say it's easier to fit an air chuck to a 90° valve stem. In my experience, a 90° should be arranged to point out to the side that leans upward on the side stand to facilitate attaching an air chuck. The tip is also a lot closer to the surface of the rim and you can't bend it. A rubber valve stem can flex and it weighs less than half of what an aluminum valve stem will weigh. Aluminum 90° valve stems are mainly ornamental IMHO. ...but I like them for the cool factor. Like I said, proceed with caution and I wouldn't worry about Friday or Saturday. Take your time on this because it is a real safety concern.

This is what is frustrating about the manual, paper and pdf,
some 700 pages and very scant actual help imv.
I wasted way too much time trying to find out from vendors
and manuals, etc, IS THIS THE RIGHT STEM???? No one can
really say, the manuals say NOTHING about my sprockets
or how to change them, particularly the front, which
socket sizes, which size nuts, nothing useful that
I can find.
So here's the rub on the stems, I've ordered stems and as mentioned
they are tough to get out, maybe pushing them in isn't
so hard or won't ruin them, I don't know, not something
anyone even talks about, do I ruin my stem by pushing it in,
and then left with a bike with no stem cause the one I'm guessing
at size-wise doesn't fit. and then I measure and hope
I can eventually find the right fit.....and get it delivered.

The specs look the same but this is a 'stand up' vs 'pancake'? Does this have
advantages over the pancake?

I use a vice on a bench to break the bead off the rim. I use 3 spoons, a 25gal barrel with a cut hose going around the open part, plus it's more a trash can when rims are not laid done on it> Dish soap not watered down, but hand applied. If I were stronger, I wouldn't have used a cutter for the rear tire. Front was a snap.

Nephew came over with his old 16" HD tires and unloaded the second one off the rim faster. Go figure.

I use touchup paint for the dings on the rims. Can't see if from afar anyway. Home he dunt kneed no raba trickshit.

I have a balancer going way back. Maybe a 2gal air tank with enough pressure to pop them on the bead.

With a new one sided razor, cut it from the top or bottom. Put it back together and bring it to a tire changing place. They have plenty of those for metric cars. That, or go to a car dealer like Honda and match the bodies.

Shop manuals are very limited in scope. A mechanic should already know how to tear down and assemble any bike. The manual is more for torque and spec settings. Maybe for specific parts hidden places. Thus the renderings or photos.