I bought this bike last Sunday.I did not pay attention to it. Is normal rattle (2 sec) after relasing start button?It does not occur every time.
I know older Jap bikes had something called free wheel or whatever.Is this it?

Before you get told to tear yer engine apart ...yer gettin cam chain rattle.NORMAL.Can be corrected by buying an APE manual tensioner.Voila!No more noise at startup.BTW....

So is original one worn out (a assume is automatic).Is better deal to buy manual one?Is difficult to change and adjust?I know in my Blackbird it takes 20min to change (automatic).
I know manual ones last longer but advantage of automatic one is ,you do not have to adjust it.

The original CCT isn't worn out....The noise stops as soon as the oil circulates. Mine is loud for a couple seconds and then it quiets down within a 10 - 15 seconds. I don't pay much attention to it.

Sorry but new bike making noise like that?I am not impressed.I know in honda bikes it wornes out every 6k miles.My new zzr has 12k on clock so i thought might be time for it.

Was the bike dyno'd? Tensioners are eaten by them. It's on the barrel load or the slow down, that bends something and I am only taking a guess. Does mine bark in the cold? Yes, less than half a second. I've heard louder on newer 14's with less miles. Was it dyno'd?

D'uh!

Is there a problem? Only when it keeps making the same noise when start-up continues that sound, never shuts down, then yes, you have a problem.

Is there a problem I hear that noise? Yes, you are going to complain about the rubber squeaking too?' then yes, there is going to be a squid slapping about to happen ear.

No, serious, will I need to redesign what is normal noise? Hey, your bike, your deal, ain't my bike. You see me complaining short of tearing into one and see if we have a barrel brake problem that takes a new C-clip is beats the shit out of me if I care.

Then the answer is don't worry about it, yours did not blow up, you are not nice to your bike are you? No I am not nice, period! So, I beat bike as I squid up the cali merry happy new year is same old noise from first gen to 2010.

Are we clear?

I have got no idea if been dyno'd.I am new keeper.Is cct installed on side of engine so changing will be easy?
Well i am not complainng because i am fussy.It is suprising that 2006 well engineered bike does things like that.

Fussy and engineering are two different things. This bike is being refined as we speak. My buddy's 2010 had his on the dyno. I rode it for what little time I had and would trade up my '08 for a newer one. It has changed that much.

Is his tensioner louder than mine? Yes. Is the tensioner broken? No. Will a new tensioner quiet cold starts? Probably.

Will I need to remove the valve cover to spring load the tension from the inside is now unload the spring goes pop on the slipper arm? Yes. So, I better change the valve cover and both spark plug boots too, right? Yes, you better. It is played or flat is flat out flattened out, we gonna shim the used parts in the cheap seats, you buy a $100 tensioner shipped, use the old and flat tensioner o-ring like reuse the used valve cover, I'm going to add fuel to the fire is a leak I don't have now?

Well, yes, that is correct if we are going to change parts and my guess is a parts job a little under $200, if the tensioner assy/top gasket/2-center head gaskets are replaced, yes, you are back to a dry top end and quieter starts.

"so it's worn out"...NO,it's NOT worn out.It will FOREVER allow chain slap AT STARTUP.You can leave it on there...or remove and replace with a manual one.Nothing is being damaged by using the factory CCT.I've had a manual tensioner on mine since early 07.Easy to change-two mount bolts....no problem.Can be done within 15 minutes.It's right there just down a tad on the rear of the cylinder block(right side,silver colored).In spite of what some have said....I've NEVER needed to adjust mine from my original adjustment.I did recheck a few thousand miles ago just to make sure she wasn't somehow binding or maybe too tight.But no....she was fine.Very simple mod and IMO well worth the money and time.Install adjustments are very easy and simple.Been using it faithfully now for 32,000 miles.

"well engineered bike doing that".....the tensioner IS a well engineered piece of the overall engine package.It's behaving exactly as they intended it to.Gotta remember....they're Japanese engineers....they enjoy all the little clicks and clunks and gadgets on their creations!(And I'm glad they do!!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2010 @ 10:53 PM *

Yo HUB....what the heck are you talkin about????????????You pull the factory tensioner out,and replace with a manual tensioner...plus the O-ring that you buy along with the tensioner.There is no compressing ANY spring,no removal of valve covers,OR anything else.WHY are you leading him to believe he's gonna need to replace the factory tensioner with a "NEW" factory tensioner?He wants to eliminate the noise.Not re-reinstall the same stuff and get the same results.Geez Bro....have mercy will ya?The ONLY cure for tensioner noise IS the aftermarket manual tensioner.Period.

Hubster wrote"Well, yes, that is correct if we are going to change parts and my guess is a parts job a little under $200, if the tensioner assy/top gasket/2-center head gaskets are replaced, yes, you are back to a dry top end and quieter starts".

WRONG...sorry HUB...replacing the factory tensioner with a "new" factory tensioner is NOT gonna get anyone "quieter starts".His tensioner is fine(again).It will ALWAYS make SOME noise at startup...it can't help it...it's designed to work under oil pressure...which is NON EXISTENT at STARTUP.The colder the engine,the thicker the oil,the longer it's gonna take for the "noise" to diminish.You can't change the physics of this deal by replacing the same part....hoping to get different results.

AGAIN...ROOK is getting this....his explanation is right on the money!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2010 @ 10:54 PM *

YO, blue! Bring yur ear over here. 12,000 miles, I heard the tensioner once on an oil change. ONCE! YOu know I change oil a lot, do not prime start nothing is oil up and leave the driveway.

All of a sudden, I start the bike that left the dyno. From that day on, I have Tensioner Poise until the oil loads before the starter motor ring, freewheels. Yo, yo, chain link fence is sitting on the fence telling everybody you know your shit?

Shit in a hat is the hat tricks I am spewing from my back pocket is chump change the noise I throw a dime at this bike!

My 2007 just started to rattle this year. I hate rattles. In my brain they spell impending Doom. I tried ignore but,,,,,,,,,,, APE here we come. I got 15,000 before it started ?

Then explain away how I heard that noise the second it rolled off that dyno.

See the alligator strips on the rod? That thing is pinned not to fully unload. That oil pressure is a fluid flow with give on lift, pressure on throttle apply.

Racing tensioners have no give. Racing tensioners need constant adjusting. The old CB750 and Z1's had static tensioners or racing tensioners that needed constant maintenance. I owned both bikes. Know a rattle chain bucking back and forth with a bad carb sync.

Now, I hear the best sound going is oil pressure against that fluid tensioner. I keep hearing rattle, I have an oil pressure problem. I have a rattler, I can hear the sound deaden. Do you see me want to touch a bolt off the crank cover or tensioner nut and measure up on the back and forth feel of slack that will dig into the slipper arm's rubber; is accelerate that rub if I am not as perfect as an automatic tensioner is why I leave mine alone. I am content to live with any mechanical noise I know will not harm anything, but tell me things are all quiet on the west torn front of me is look the fuck out, I don't wrench on my bike like it's a race bike, I need race parts, worry about that slipper being whipped into submission in the street?

I don't step backwards in time. I don't care if the cam timing comes in better, it's a street bike, "I'm 50!"

http://www.movieweb.com/tv/TELTYMPRvWujQP/HUskrzwu4UBEws

I call BS on the Hubster. Just spend $50 on the APE tensioner and your cam chain noise will be GONE. And you do not have to constantly adjust it. Mine has not been touched since installed 6000 miles back. Best $50 you'll ever spend.

Hub you crack me up, once you get going there is no slowing you down

dek id advise you to adjust it. had 1 installed on my zx9 had about that many miles on it when i gunned it and the bike let out a big back fire and died on the highway. Took it back to the speedshop that installed it, a few days and $400 later it was just the chain jumped a tooth but they still had to tear it down to make sure nothing broke. They told me at every oil change to give it a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. its not a set it and forget it part.

Ok guys.If i would buy manual one.How do i adjust it?Turn counter clockwise and turn clockwise until....?

back off lock nut and turn clock wise. when it a lil too tight it will sound like you have a supercharger on it when you let off the gas. too tight stretches the chain.

Monster, I know. I do it so I crack myself up with the lame jokes I come up with is laugh at my own shit and entertain myself.

wowerman,

The cool thing about the static tensioner is not having to remove the valve cover. Just find 1 or 4 TDC. Go a few degrees forward, so the cam lobe is not being pushed in reverse so you hear that chain jump a tooth.

You'll slowly feel the OEM tensoner ratchet out as you remove the screws. Just go slow. Then with the static tensioner, you adjust the rod and then push the unit in the hole so as not to install the screws, but to butt the assembly up against the slipper arm and head hole clearance.

Once you protrude from the hole, you back the rod off till it just about touches so you can install the bolts. If you push the rod to push the slipper, can you see you are now digging into the slipper!! So, there is this fine line of butting up, and then shoving it up the slipper's ass and dig a chain line in it.

Something like that. Say the chain is knocking. Then on the running, we remove the noise is one way. I am not thrilled on that running adjustment. I like a static feel so I can stick my finger in the hole. push the tensioner as I move the crank, know how much is too much. OH, and you better not slip pushing that slipper or it's cam chain out of phase bye one tooth are a few valves about to be tagged.

i didnt install mine the shop did but to me id think youll feel it when you make contact with the chain.

THIS is how I adjusted mine.Pull the stock one out.Simple.Loosen the lock nut on the new manual one.Back the adjuster bolt counterclockwise for several turns(to make sure it's not touching the cam shoe inside).Install new tensioner,with O-ring.Tighten down the mount bolts.Done with that.NOW....Start your engine in neutral.YOU WILL HEAR THE CAM CHAIN RATTLING.IMMEDIATELY begin turning clockwise JUST UNTIL THE NOISE STOPS.NO FURTHER!!!!Hold the adjuster bolt,and tighten down the lock nut.DONE.I've got 33,800 miles.Only readjusted ONCE,just because I wanted to make sure it wasn't too tight or something.All is well.

You can look inside the hole and see the chain in there.Then,before install,you can "kind of" get an idea of the distance you need to turn the adjuster bolt BEFORE you install.Put the "adjusted" unit into the hole,and see if the bolt is going to touch.If it is,back the bolt out so it's not putting pressure on the shoe BEFORE you begin your final install/adjustment.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/23/2010 @ 4:09 PM *

Both of mine used to rattle on startup when it was new. It went away.

good info blue thanks for your input i was thinking of switching the 14's out.

As far as the DYNO DEAL...and cam chain tensioner noise BEGINNING....I'm clueless on that.THAT makes no sense to me.Starting is starting.Throttle is throttle.Map grids are Map grids.IDK.Perhaps what was being heard "after the dyno" was preignition or something related to fuel mixtures?

And Turbohawk mentioned his went away after a while.The shoes are made of what?It could be that they expand somewhat over time with the oil flying around in there...IDK.Perhaps that's why people say they've had to readjust after a while?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/23/2010 @ 4:17 PM *